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Old 07-30-2015, 02:52 PM   #31
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What intercooler kit are you using bmaddock or did you piece it together yourself?

This write up is amazing im about to start this journey soon just picked up a r154 last week
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:02 AM   #32
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What intercooler kit are you using bmaddock or did you piece it together yourself?

This write up is amazing im about to start this journey soon just picked up a r154 last week
Thanks dude, it's actually a Greddy SR kit I used back when I was KA-T. I needed new piping for the engine bay though but it was easy to make work. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you need help.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:27 PM   #33
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hey man great build! i currently actually have a the same swap in my s13! jzx110 s13 love lol. actually have a question, have you looked into any AC write ups to get the AC to work in an s13? i already have everything set up, compressor, lines, condenser, etc, just need to wire the compressor and fill it with freon to get it working but for the life of me, i cant find anything on any "plenty of threads explaining their Frankenstein AC setups using Nissan and Toyota parts" lol
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:58 AM   #34
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hey man great build! i currently actually have a the same swap in my s13! jzx110 s13 love lol. actually have a question, have you looked into any AC write ups to get the AC to work in an s13? i already have everything set up, compressor, lines, condenser, etc, just need to wire the compressor and fill it with freon to get it working but for the life of me, i cant find anything on any "plenty of threads explaining their Frankenstein AC setups using Nissan and Toyota parts" lol
Yo if u figure this out pm me im tring to get ac to work too on my 2jzge s13
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:39 AM   #35
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Basically all you need is custom lines with toyota fittings on one end and nissan on the other, as far as wiring I take it you don't have the AC compressor plug on your wiring harness? You can stick the condenser just about anywhere it fits.
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Old 09-08-2015, 05:06 PM   #36
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Basically all you need is custom lines with toyota fittings on one end and nissan on the other, as far as wiring I take it you don't have the AC compressor plug on your wiring harness? You can stick the condenser just about anywhere it fits.
Yea thats what i figured about the lines. My s13 wiring harness is uncut and ive got all s13 ac stuff. Ac blew cold a month ago prior to ripping out ka. Im more worried about the condensor taking up some airflow to the radiator. Im honestly slapping my engine in this week without the ac at first just becuase of the cost right now. Just want to start this thing up in the car
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:19 PM   #37
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Yo if u figure this out pm me im tring to get ac to work too on my 2jzge s13
hey man, i ended up wiring it to a toggle switch with a relay and fuse. my jz ac wiring is all cut up so i had no choice
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:56 AM   #38
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Hey Ben, think we can arrange a drag race at Shelor next car show?
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:16 AM   #39
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Hey Ben, think we can arrange a drag race at Shelor next car show?
Yeah dude! I would be very interested to see how that goes. I've had the car down for the past few weeks doing some other stuff but that would be fun. You can probably run against an RB25 swap, KA-T and big single 2J too....I should be bringing some friends. I think the show is october 17th?
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:51 AM   #40
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Yea thats what i figured about the lines. My s13 wiring harness is uncut and ive got all s13 ac stuff. Ac blew cold a month ago prior to ripping out ka. Im more worried about the condensor taking up some airflow to the radiator. Im honestly slapping my engine in this week without the ac at first just becuase of the cost right now. Just want to start this thing up in the car
You're going to need a jz ac compressor, the ka one wont work as far as I know. Your jz harness should have an ac compressor plug so you should just be able to plug it in. But the condenser taking up airflow to the radiator is virtually unavoidable.
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Old 09-15-2015, 01:22 PM   #41
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Yeah dude! ...I should be bringing some backup bro's in case I loose. I think the show is october 17th?
I have no idea when the show is, I just thought you're slow.

But yeah I'll try to make it down with the fun car instead of the blue whale for once.
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:31 PM   #42
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Yo im swapping a 2jzge in my s13 right now. Went to go wire it but when i got to the f1 plug wiring the color of the wires were different from the guide im using. Did nissan just mix match the wire colors when they ran out at the factory or something
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Old 10-07-2015, 06:40 PM   #43
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thank you so much for this write up really has helped me get things moving forward and is keeping my motivation up to get her going!!
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:12 PM   #44
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Great write up
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Old 12-27-2015, 10:55 AM   #45
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sick thread bro!!! i got the same build going.. just in the process of relocating the battery to the trunk and powering everything up.. just not really sure what needs direct power and what wire i need to connect to power the fuse box. any help would be greatly appreciated... i just wanna drive this thing already!!!
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Old 01-04-2016, 06:52 AM   #46
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sick thread bro!!! i got the same build going.. just in the process of relocating the battery to the trunk and powering everything up.. just not really sure what needs direct power and what wire i need to connect to power the fuse box. any help would be greatly appreciated... i just wanna drive this thing already!!!
Send me a PM with some pictures of the connections you're confused on. It's not bad, there's really only two or three that I spliced into one line.

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thank you so much for this write up really has helped me get things moving forward and is keeping my motivation up to get her going!!
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Great write up
Thanks! Best of luck with your builds.
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Old 01-05-2016, 11:57 AM   #47
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Do you remember if Shelor needs you to have windows up or down in a car? Just realized that may be an issue... Or do you think cage + window nets will make them settle down?

P.S. - Race Friday before the spring show?
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:56 AM   #48
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Awesome write up! Wish I saw this sooner I just finished my swap. 🤘🏼
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:38 PM   #49
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Thread is finally "complete." David released the last video of the swap series. Added to first post.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rANeRLUmhYE
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:41 PM   #50
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Thread is finally "complete." David released the last video of the swap series. Added to first post.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rANeRLUmhYE
Did you just manage to get it all together? Or did this happen a while ago
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:56 PM   #51
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It's been running on and off for a few months now, we shot that maybe 3 weeks ago.
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:04 AM   #52
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thanks for this write up, good read.

about to dive into this swap and a few questions for you

etcs vs ects-i... with the i do you just need to remove the 2nd butterfly and patch that up or is there wiring/ other issues to address? ppl have told me to stick with the etcs, for ease.

and will a 2jz oil pump bolt onto the 1jz vvti? is this a recommended upgrade?
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:20 AM   #53
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@Black240ct

I wrote a small section on the difference between these throttle bodies on post #2, you should read it. You can run with an etcs-i throttle body, you will just be drive-by-wire. Some say it has a delayed feel but you'll get used to it in no time. ETCS is the drive-by-cable setup. You can convert an ETCS-I setup to ETCS with a jzz30/jzx100 throttle body, MAF, ECU, and harness.....but its not worth spending all that money and effort to convert unless you already have those parts lying around.

You have two options the way I look at it:
1. embrace the DBW ETCS-I
2. return your motor to the importer and ask for a jzz30/jzx100 1j vvti with the etcs throttle body



Oil pump is up to you, me and my friends all are running the oil pump that came with the motor but it isn't too hard to disassemble it, verify the clearances and determine if a new one is needed. 2J pump is just a usdm bolt-on option.
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Old 04-17-2016, 10:07 PM   #54
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Awesome writeup, super thorough! Wish I had this shit back when I was working this swap out for a deployed friend lol.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:15 AM   #55
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http://my.is/forums/f114/bc-cam-inst...pulley-375420/

interesting read on properly setting the vvti cam gear and intake cam, when changing a timing belt.
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:06 AM   #56
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found some helpful information while wiring my swap.




my ECU had a B/Y and B/R wires (Batt and b+), hooked these up to a ecu relay and this was all i needed to get my ecu to turn on and fire. these came from plug "G"

The ECU has an output to the fuel pump relay, it sends a ground signal. I just wired the fuel pump relay to another switch. these are on plug "H"

The sensors need power though thin B/R wires and like a blue female to female connector that was taped to the main engine harness by the ecu.

the plug #3 has all B/W wires, these are individual power to each injector , each coil, and a voltage check relay that mounts next to the ignitor, I ran all the injector powers to one injector relay, ran the rest to a ignition relay.

the tach signal comes from the igniter chip, ive read it was lables "IGN -" mine was labled "TAC" and is a thin G/B wire.



I removed all the boost switches and sensors under the intake manifold and turbo side so removed all those wires, removed the Trac control in the front of the Throttle body and removed all of those wirtes as well.

a majority of the unused plugs on the engine harness went to the diagnostic box near the intake manifold. i removed alll of those wires also.



so powering the injector and coils, the sensor powers, two ecu wires was all i needed to wire to get it to fire up.
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Old 05-24-2016, 02:39 PM   #57
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I'm having a problem with starting my car. Does anyone know how to mess with a megasquirt v3 ecu
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:00 PM   #58
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Can you explain more where you bang the transmission tunnel ??
What if i dont ?
Thanks
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:30 PM   #59
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Can you explain more where you bang the transmission tunnel ??
What if i dont ?
Thanks
Near the top side towards the fire wall, looking at it head on, the right is where your 2 bolts sit to bolt your starter up. Make sure you get a good dent in this area otherwise you will have one hell of a time taking the starter out. Otherwise you will need to move the engine off the cross member to get to it which is a complete pain. Massage that entire height around the whole tunnel with a rubber mallet. The rest of the transmission fits pretty snug.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:13 AM   #60
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For those running the xcessive brackets, you'll most likely have to notch where the turbo hardline makes contact

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