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Old 11-29-2006, 08:04 PM   #121
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hey guys ive got a 95 S14 with a series 2 rb25det swap and my number 3 coil pack is bad. is there anything stateside with the same style coil pack i can use. i cant find anything that will work. and i also cant find series 2 rb25 or rb26 stock packs for sale. i really dont want to go aftermarket yet any information will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-04-2006, 02:18 AM   #122
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Im by no means "new" to RBs, and have owned several RB powered vehicles, but I need a clutch NOW.

I have installed two clutches in all of my time owning these cars, both clutches were bought for a 300zx NA 90-up. They both fit fine on my RB20s.

I cannot find a reasonabley priced clutch to fit the horsepower needs of my current RB20.

(only a statement) I have seen a couple of companies (seemingly reputable companies) selling clutches and stating that a particular kit of theirs is for a SR20 or a RB20....



My question is, has anyone sat a rb20 clutch and p plate next to that of an sr20? Are they the same? WILL THE SR CLUTCH WORK TOO???????????

Seems too good to be true, any info?

Ps. I searched, but nothing crazy...10min at most.
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Old 12-04-2006, 01:26 PM   #123
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i have a 1990 240sx and i want to go rb20....what will i need to install it...does it bolt up,does it not,...what parts do i need
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Old 12-04-2006, 03:52 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newblood
i have a 1990 240sx and i want to go rb20....what will i need to install it...does it bolt up,does it not,...what parts do i need
search around a little and you'll find the answer easily.. your motor choice is by far the easiest swap of the rb's
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:47 PM   #125
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Any know if nismo sells camshaft blanks for the RB25DET?
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Old 12-08-2006, 08:03 PM   #126
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anyone got a clue on the sr/rb clutch thing?????
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Old 12-08-2006, 09:02 PM   #127
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Lets knock all these questions down.
Series 2 coilpacks? No there is no U.S. car that I know of that ran the same thing. There could be now. I suggest you research it a little buy contacting a Nissan dealer and showing them your coilpack for a cross reference. Other than that, look to a importer for spare coilpacks, or even ebay. I have seen them pop up on ebay from time to time.

On to the clutch question

RB clutches are not the same as SR clutches there is a surface area size difference.

And for the camshaft question

As far as I know Nismo does not sell camshaft blanks for the RB here in the U.S.. Most of the Nismo parts available for the RB in the U.S. are stuff like gaskets, water pumps,thermostats and oil pumps. Your best bet for cams for the RB are Tomei Poncams which are actually very nice cams.

There I hope this at least helps you guys some. Good luck
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Old 12-12-2006, 12:09 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift freaq
Lets knock all these questions down.
Series 2 coilpacks? No there is no U.S. car that I know of that ran the same thing. There could be now. I suggest you research it a little buy contacting a Nissan dealer and showing them your coilpack for a cross reference. Other than that, look to a importer for spare coilpacks, or even ebay. I have seen them pop up on ebay from time to time.

On to the clutch question

RB clutches are not the same as SR clutches there is a surface area size difference.

And for the camshaft question

As far as I know Nismo does not sell camshaft blanks for the RB here in the U.S.. Most of the Nismo parts available for the RB in the U.S. are stuff like gaskets, water pumps,thermostats and oil pumps. Your best bet for cams for the RB are Tomei Poncams which are actually very nice cams.

There I hope this at least helps you guys some. Good luck
I know you have to use a custom downpipe if you go with a Twins on a RB26 swap in a S13 but what size turbo can you go with if you do aftermarket twins?
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Old 12-13-2006, 12:36 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemical Whore
I know you have to use a custom downpipe if you go with a Twins on a RB26 swap in a S13 but what size turbo can you go with if you do aftermarket twins?
Thats a very random question, Truth be told a pair of GT2530's would be downright sick on a 26. It would easily push you into the 600HP range in my opinion. RB26DETT install is baller to begin with. Its not a inexpensive install. That said it can be done and has been done. I have a friend running a RB26 car, as we speak. With just the PowerFC and a boost controller he is probably close to 450hp, on a completely stock engine. Unless your building an all out drag machine, you could safely say thats as far as you need to go. Thats the sick part about doing the 26.
I will be putting out somewhere in the range of 330-340 whp on my next dyno run. I am happy with those numbers I am not shooting for higher because I want my car to be driveable. I am also not trying to build a drag car.
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Old 12-13-2006, 12:44 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift freaq
Thats a very random question, Truth be told a pair of GT2530's would be downright sick on a 26. It would easily push you into the 600HP range in my opinion. RB26DETT install is baller to begin with. Its not a inexpensive install. That said it can be done and has been done. I have a friend running a RB26 car, as we speak. With just the PowerFC and a boost controller he is probably close to 450hp, on a completely stock engine. Unless your building an all out drag machine, you could safely say thats as far as you need to go. Thats the sick part about doing the 26.
I will be putting out somewhere in the range of 330-340 whp on my next dyno run. I am happy with those numbers I am not shooting for higher because I want my car to be driveable. I am also not trying to build a drag car.
Im a random person ahaha I know its not cheap. I was just wondering if its going to have issues with hood clearance etc.. if i went with a twin GT2538 type of set up.
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Old 12-13-2006, 04:47 PM   #131
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^ there should be no clearance issues... unless you went weird on the Exh mani
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Old 12-15-2006, 01:47 AM   #132
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hmm.. me saving up them pennies for some -Garrett 2860R-5, very similar to (HKS GT2530's) if anything its a more cost effective set up, bolts right up and should clear fine :-) it will yield an easy 500whp with the right set up and tune.. and yes that will probably be the max you want to step on the stock 26..
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:20 PM   #133
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wiring on a RB25Det on a 91 240 .
i was wondering do i need 2 get
custom wiring done for the wiring harness
from the motor to the car ?
cus i the RB25 with the wiringharness and ECU
couldnt i just use the RB ecu on the 240 ?
cus im lost and people tell me different things
everyday so if any one could help me out a bit .
id be happy .
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:15 AM   #134
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english evades you. anyway, you use the RB ecu and wiring harness....its pretty much common sense when you really think about it. you have to use the ECU that manages/controls the motor that you are putting in.
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:41 PM   #135
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? about all the mount kits that lower the engine, what does this do for oil pan to ground clearance. On mine i just used the r33 cross member and stock mounts moved back 1" and if the engine was much lower it would be below the crossmember.
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Old 01-16-2007, 07:46 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemical Whore
but what size turbo can you go with if you do aftermarket twins?
Well here is some info. (I put this 26 in a 32 type m but it will replace my 25 in the 240 when I get back) I am running the Nismo twins (14411-RS581) T04B compressor A/R 0.60 Turbine A/R 0.64 with a rom tune and only ran it at 1 bar. getting 428.9 ps on 93 octane. Not pushing the turbos yet and they fit like stock. They are good to 600 I know maybe a little more and are garret so cheap to rebuild. Well here is the chart.



And for the 20 guys for refrance My boys 20 with a 2530 at 1.2 bar put down 320ps with the rest of the motor stock with a brid ecu.



RB20 run <--------CLICK
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:20 AM   #137
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What are the diameter, thread pitch and legnth of rb20det oil lines, I didnt get any with my motorset.
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:40 AM   #138
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This didn't exist, I had the info and another guy needed it, so I made it..

A31 RB20DET Ecu wiring harness pinout with wire colors:


Please save & redistribute as needed, I don't know how long we-todd-did-racing will host the image.
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:43 AM   #139
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Also some info on Exhaust manifold studs, washers, yokes, nuts:

(qty needed)

(12) Exhaust manifold studs - 01151-00471
Courtesy told me this wasn't a valid US part number... But according to Shay @ NismoParts.com, it is valid -- but it's an Infinity part number! Ordered from Shay @ Nismoparts.com

(8) Exhaust manifold yokes - 14037-42L01
Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com. 24mm outer diam for cyl 1,2,5,6

(4) Exhaust manifold yokes - 14037-42L02
Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com. 22mm outer diam for cyl 3,4

(12) Exhaust manifold washers 14037-01E00
Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com

(12) Exhaust manifold nuts 08912-8401A
According to Courtesy "97812-8401A" is is not a valid PN. I looked the nuts up in FAST and found a new PN, "08912-84010". Shay @ Nismoparts.com informed me that "08912-8401A" is the superseded PN. Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com

These parts are all $.60 to $1.70 each, so figure roughly $1/each on average.
12 studs + 12 yokes + 12 washers + 12 nuts = 48 parts @ ~$1 ea = $50 plus shipping for a full set.
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:45 AM   #140
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Nismo makes r32/r33/r34 motor mounts for use with with oem mount brackets and x-member. For R32 2WD: PN 11220-RS585 you'll need two:

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/engine-mounts

The Nismo KA trans mount is apparently the same as the RB trans mount. I plan on re-using mine (thanks drift_freaq), if it's different for any reason I'll update the post.
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Old 02-06-2007, 03:27 AM   #141
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I've been trying to find some dyno graphs of RB25s with a GT35R on em... Does ANYONE have such a graph??
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:36 AM   #142
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RB25 water pump on RB20 does not work properly. Check out the pictures and write up below...
Cross posted from my post on the other RB boards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mello88
I saw a few old threads asking if an RB25 pump will fit on the RB20, but nobody really answered one way or the other... Except to say the pumps look very similar (rb25 bolt hole #1 is slotted and rb20 hole #1 isn't). Bad news for us RB20 guys -- the RB25 pump will NOT work properly. Check it out...


Blue area shows the overlap/leak area. Pink line is the edge of the water passage, yellow is the slot size and green is the bolt hole.

The slotted hole, the only visual difference in the pumps, is what causes the problem on the RB20. It will bolt up perfectly, but because of the metal removed from the pump to form the slot, part of the water passageway will be exposed! This little gap is enough to cause the RTV not to seal very well in that area, or if it does maybe seal a thin coat, it will quickly blow out.






If you look in first picture, in the the lower left corner of the slotted bolt hole (behind the bits of RTV), you'll be able to see the water passage way. The second picture shows the end of a large zip tie shoved into the gap, it's a pretty good size hole (hard to see in pics)... Anyway in both pics, the pump is aligned and hand tightened on a few bolts. From there, you cannot really adjust the pump up or to the right any more (as it would seem to improve sealing by the slot). This may just be a case of slight variances in the block casting, but I think there is a reason RB25/RB26 use the slotted hole and RB20 doesn't. I think the RB25 has a slightly different casting on the block under and to the left of the #1 bolt hole.

The RB20 pump of course has a single non slotted bolt hole, which does a much better job of sealing off the passageway, and provides more metal to metal surface area for the RTV to seal:



I pressure tested my cooling system the other day and found a huge leak out of the slotted bolt hole before I knew about this issue.. Ok, I figured I must have missed an area with the RTV, so I removed the crank pulley, timing covers, timing belt, etc to re-install the pump. I took extra care to evenly cover all of the pump's mating surface with RTV this time around. After hand-tightening the bolts on the pump and letting the new RTV cure, I torqued the pump bolts down the rest of the way. Next I pressure tested the cooling system again, this time to 2 bar. It held briefly but quickly blew a hole in the RTV in exactly the same place in the slotted bolt hole as last time! It actually blew out some RTV I squished into the back left corner of the slotted bolt hole (to help cover the gap)... Which means it wasn't sealed from the back (block side) at all. I'd rather have it blow out on the engine stand than on the freeway....

Your mileage may vary, but as far as I can see the RB25 pump is not a viable option for the RB20. Does the N1 water pump have the slotted hole? Did anyone else catch this sealing problem on their RB20? Also If someone has a picture of their RB25 block without the water pump, I would like to see if there are any differences under and to the left of the #1 bolt hole:
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:29 PM   #143
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Quote:
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I've been trying to find some dyno graphs of RB25s with a GT35R on em... Does ANYONE have such a graph??
These are links I've found especially helpful

RB20 Turbo Upgrade, Dyno Results

The one you want to look around in:

RB25 Turbo Upgrade, Dyno Results

And for the surprisingly less rare RB26 people

RB26 Turbo Upgrade, Dyno Results

Gotta love the Aussies... Hope it helps.
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:16 AM   #144
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Thanks I'll take a look and see.
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Old 02-15-2007, 02:12 AM   #145
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can you use the ka24de koyo radiator for rb25?
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:01 AM   #146
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Yes you can.
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Old 02-20-2007, 09:52 AM   #147
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in case anyone was wondering, i got 13mpg on the race track yesterday @ 10 psi
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Old 02-20-2007, 05:58 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kouki_s14
in case anyone was wondering, i got 13mpg on the race track yesterday @ 10 psi
LOL that;s not bad at all I got 8MPG at 12PSI on my SR..... still waiting ont he results fromn the RB. I got the GOld top so it came with a ball bearing T28. =] not limited to 12PSI like most folks. we'll see my results. hopefully withing the next 2 months.
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Old 02-20-2007, 07:19 PM   #149
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Can anyone tell me how to tell the difference between an RB25DET SERIES l AND SERIES ll, THANKS!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:13 PM   #150
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rb25det series one uses an ignitor pack/chip and a series two has the ignitor built into the coils. thats is the most noticeable difference, the MAFS are different too i believe.
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