Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[juhd]

whats a good double din stereo (touch screen) thats not so expensive and will fit an s13 perfectly?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

I'm asking cause the body shop said it needs to get pulled back slowly and carefully to avoid snapping the metal if its pulled hard. I figured it wouldn't take any more then 5 days or a work week assuming they worked on it a bit at a time. I'm also asking cause since i was in a fender bender and had it's original (now very old) paint job, i decided to do a front conversion and paint it. Could have converted it myself but since they were going to remove bumper, fender, hood to work on core support I decided to get everything needed and have them put it on. They're taking their sweet F'ing time though. All in all i was estimating this take about 4 weeks and so far im looking at 3 months, one week and counting. Last 2 months theyve been supposedly painting it. Back on the week of Halloween i stopped by to see it primered. Been wanting to just get my car but i know I'll be assed getting charged possibly double by them for paint supplies and their time as well as a second time by which ever body shop i take to get the paint job finished. I'm wanting to get a better idea of how long fixing the core support would take. BTW, the example i gave of it beinh slightly bent was how my core support was. No fluid leaks or major damage other then the corner and a bent light bracket.

What you are dealing with most likely is a shop who makes most of their money on Insurance work. You are paying cash and are placed behind the daily bread and butter work. You have a choice. You can suck it and wait, or you can be a pain in the ass or a buddy, go by every week to check on it.
Try waiting for a shop to remove each spot weld on a fender/wheelhouse, cut the front part of the frame at the seam in front of the core, and essentially rebuild the front end. Yes, it takes time. I have wet sanded my entire car at the shop, had a hand in doing some stuff, still need to go wire in the fans, but bottom line is I am paying cash and they make their living on insurance work that takes priority

[sidewaysfein]

Xxxxxxxxxxxxx

[aymaeid]

does a rebuilt rack and pinion come with new bushings? or should i be purchasing them seperately?

[shiftdrift]

refinished, how much would these be worth approx? powdercoating the faces black and re polishing/cleaning up the lips. WORK VS X9 (VS-EDITION) MADE IN 1998 18x9 +45 18x9.5+45 5x114.3 missing center caps, but all the bolts are authentic work bolts. They came off a Supra

[juhd]

do you need any special brackets to install a double din headunit in an s13?

[Kallixtos]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

do you need any special brackets to install a double din headunit in an s13?

Should be able to use the stock brackets.

[s14j]

im having a problem with my s14 sub frame.
a annoying creaking noise keeps happening when ever movement is made up or Down. sounds like a old metal door opening. creak creak.

i have PBM subframe risers
godspeed arms
and solid diff bushings.

any ideas?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by sidewaysfein

Just wanna hear what these are realistically worth to a few people?

Original cost, $4400~ used, worth about half that. If the tires are new, no more than $2000, if the tires have age cracks or are not new, $2000 tops

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

refinished, how much would these be worth approx? powdercoating the faces black and re polishing/cleaning up the lips. WORK VS X9 (VS-EDITION) MADE IN 1998 18x9 +45 18x9.5+45 5x114.3 missing center caps, but all the bolts are authentic work bolts. They came off a Supra

If those nuts are rusty and old they are weak and have no business on the wheels for a rebuild. The wheels have damage. Even swapping out the hardware with new Works hardware, you are only looking at $700 at best

Originally Posted by s14j

im having a problem with my s14 sub frame.
a annoying creaking noise keeps happening when ever movement is made up or Down. sounds like a old metal door opening. creak creak.

i have PBM subframe risers
godspeed arms
and solid diff bushings.

any ideas?

Cradle bushings in the back. The only way you can see if they are 'done' is to have someone move the car into reverse or 1st gear as you watch the cradle. You will see the cradle move and hear it make that noise. Job will take a while to get old bushings out before you can get new bushings in if they have never been replaced(my money says they have not). This is based on my own experience with my car, a 96 se 5 speed


On wheel value: I get my information from two sources who buy and sell JDM wheels and cars and half cuts and shells all day long, all year long. These are the values I got from asking.

[e1_griego]

It's probably just the heims creaking.

[acslater9]

I'm doing the rear 5 lug swap and every time I try and put my 36mm socket in the hub it always turns while I try to take out the bolt. Any suggestions on how to remove it or make the hub stop turning?? I need help ASAP! Thanks.

[CaliforniaMayhem]

Use a pry-bar/breaker bar and wedge it between two of the studs. Now while holding the bar with tension applied, torque the hub nut. I hope this helps and happy wrenching.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by CaliforniaMayhem

Use a pry-bar/breaker bar and wedge it between two of the studs. Now while holding the bar with tension applied, torque the hub nut. I hope this helps and happy wrenching.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

Thanks but I'm trying to take out the 36mm bolt. And every time I try and remove the bolt the whole hub turns and never stops turning.

**EDIT

Well I keep on trying but the hub continues to turn! I need help!

[da_crew10]

QUESTION

I was in the process of changing out my FLCA bushings, and before I thought twice I took out the metal sleeve that you press the bushing into, I put the new bushings in and bolted it on, still haven't driven the car, but will this affect anything?

[shiftdrift]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

If those nuts are rusty and old they are weak and have no business on the wheels for a rebuild. The wheels have damage. Even swapping out the hardware with new Works hardware, you are only looking at $700 at best


.

the nuts aren't rusty and old. the threaded portion looks very clean, as does all the bolts. the wheels have light rash, and as said I will be repairing it all. If you think 700 in good condition, I think you're smoking crack. 700 as is maybe.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Siq67Lark

Also before anyone asks I do not know my caster settings but my toe is 0. And yes I have searched this, but all I get is stuff about installing bump steer kits because I have no idea what else to call what is happening except "bump steer".

Did you correct your roll center too? If not that can cause wonkyness, regardless of tie rod angle being flat at a static height. How must caster are you running as well? 7 or 8 at most. Anything more bad.

Originally Posted by sidewaysfein

Just wanna hear what these are realistically worth to a few people?

100-125 a corner. The lips need refinish and the red may not be to anyone's taste.

Originally Posted by s14j

im having a problem with my s14 sub frame.
a annoying creaking noise keeps happening when ever movement is made up or Down. sounds like a old metal door opening. creak creak.

i have PBM subframe risers
godspeed arms
and solid diff bushings.

any ideas?

Spray all the links with PBlaster and see if it goes away. The creak could be from anything, but look at what you changed first.

Originally Posted by acslater9

I'm doing the rear 5 lug swap and every time I try and put my 36mm socket in the hub it always turns while I try to take out the bolt. Any suggestions on how to remove it or make the hub stop turning?? I need help ASAP! Thanks.

VERY confused here. That 36mm axle shaft nut goes into the diff itself. Lay the car on the ground, have a friend sit on the brakes (or use the e brake) and brake it loose. If it just spins and spins and spins something else is fubar.

[s14j]

[QUOTE=Cradle bushings in the back. The only way you can see if they are 'done' is to have someone move the car into reverse or 1st gear as you watch the cradle. You will see the cradle move and hear it make that noise. Job will take a while to get old bushings out before you can get new bushings in if they have never been replaced(my money says they have not). This is based on my own experience with my car, a 96 se 5 speed.[/QUOTE]

you mean the sub frame bushings?
there replaced with solid PBM ones,


and heim joints creak like that?!
it sounds like it coming from the sub frame its self.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by s14j

you mean the sub frame bushings?
there replaced with solid PBM ones,


and heim joints creak like that?!
it sounds like it coming from the sub frame its self.

It could be, solid bushings make all kinds of wonky sounds.

[s14j]

Originally Posted by codyace

It could be, solid bushings make all kinds of wonky sounds.

thats what i thought
but goddammit man its annoying sounds like a rusty door opening.
sigh..

[forzanoob]

So ever since i bought the car the rpms have been high then usual. Now this is compared to other 240s i cruise with and info i found online.
My rpm/speed
~3500/70mph
~4100/80mph
AverGe i have seen
~3000/70
~3600/80
Idk if my rpms are just off or if something else is wrong. JW if anyone knows what it could be.

[240boi115]

Originally Posted by forzanoob

So ever since i bought the car the rpms have been high then usual. Now this is compared to other 240s i cruise with and info i found online.
My rpm/speed
~3500/70mph
~4100/80mph
AverGe i have seen
~3000/70
~3600/80
Idk if my rpms are just off or if something else is wrong. JW if anyone knows what it could be.

what year is your car? s13 or s14? and if s13 single cam or dual cam?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

the nuts aren't rusty and old. the threaded portion looks very clean, as does all the bolts. the wheels have light rash, and as said I will be repairing it all. If you think 700 in good condition, I think you're smoking crack. 700 as is maybe.

Hey, if crack is readily avaialble and used by the guys SELLING those old wheels from Japan through either Texas or NY, then call them up and tell them they are on crack. Those wheels as are are worth maybe $500. If you do what you can to repair them, they are used, repaired wheels and worth no more than $700.
I been shopping work and other used wheels for a while now. I have also been talking to a few people in Japan who actually buy them and ship them here. Bro, you got $700 wheels, get used to the idea

[Fries]

Originally Posted by Siq67Lark

Hey guys I have a question about a steering issue. I installed coilovers and dropped my s14 pretty far but nothing too crazy and I've replaced all my suspension parts and even installed a bump steer kit from megan racing and got it aligned with -1.5 camber all around. After that I installed my new tires and wheels. It drives great up until I hit a bump or a drop when I'm on the freeway doing anything over 60. I had dealt with some crazy jerks before I had the bump steer kit installed (changing lanes without moving the wheel at 70 isn't very fun) and it's by no means that bad anymore, but I have lost all confidence in the car when I'm on the freeway. The only part on the suspension and steering I haven't replaced yet is my rack, but I assume that would make the issue noticeable at all speeds, not just sometimes. As I said it drives beautifully everywhere but the freeway. If anyone knows some things to try so I can fix this I'm all ears. Also before anyone asks I do not know my caster settings but my toe is 0. And yes I have searched this, but all I get is stuff about installing bump steer kits because I have no idea what else to call what is happening except "bump steer".

Megan bumpsteer adjusters are actually the same as an OEM ball joint. The Megan piece is spaced up, it gives the look of corrected bumpsteer but is still just a fubar'd. Just look in the bumpsteer thread.

Why not just raise the car a little?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[acslater9]

something crazy is happening. When I put my e brake down it still is locked up! I have no idea what to do! help thanks

[vJilly]

anyone seen a place selling a obd2 > obd1 harness converter thing? lol i know enthalpy will sell you one WITH an ecu for 100, without, 200; ive already emailed them. then theres rywire which is 250. anyone know of cheaper options? like someone that makes them?

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by s14j

im having a problem with my s14 sub frame.
a annoying creaking noise keeps happening when ever movement is made up or Down. sounds like a old metal door opening. creak creak.

i have PBM subframe risers
godspeed arms
and solid diff bushings.

any ideas?

Ball joints, maybe?

dampers?

torn rubber bushings?

ES type poly bushings binding?

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by forzanoob

So ever since i bought the car the rpms have been high then usual. Now this is compared to other 240s i cruise with and info i found online.
My rpm/speed
~3500/70mph
~4100/80mph
AverGe i have seen
~3000/70
~3600/80
Idk if my rpms are just off or if something else is wrong. JW if anyone knows what it could be.

You have a different finial drive gear ratio.

Or a funky tach.

Or, do you have an automatic? They're going to be 3 or 4 speed, right? You'd have different ratios.

As long as it feels like the clutch is always grabbing when it should, and rpm's correspond to speed changes at the wheels, you're fine.

[black'N'proud]

Took my sr20 head to machine shop to have some work done to it. The hydraulic lifters sat in a bag for about a month. My question is, after bleeding the lifters should they be really stiff and not compress or should they have some play to them? I let all of the lifters sit in oil facing up for about 10 hours before I bled them. One of them I can compress with two fingers, the rest are solid and won't push down at all. Thanks for the help in advance.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Thanks but I'm trying to take out the 36mm bolt. And every time I try and remove the bolt the whole hub turns and never stops turning.

**EDIT

Well I keep on trying but the hub continues to turn! I need help!

He told you. Wedge a seperate breaker or similar bar between two of whe wheel studs to hold the hub so it doesn't turn, and then turn the wrench on the nut and the bar between the studs in opposite directions.

Maybe put on lug nuts you don't care about, first, so you don't bugger your threads.

[jpizzle240]

Do you have to use a master key when trying to program an OEM keyless entry remote on an s14?