In the middle of 5-lug/300zx brake conversion - Need Help - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Alch · 08-07-2005, 08:37 PM

This will be a pretty long post. Your assistance/advice would be very much appreciated. See pictures at the end!

So, for the past several hours/days my brother and I been doing a full 5 lug conversion, front 300zx brakes, new rotors, and new wheels. You get the idea.

Well, the rear section took forever. After reading several walkthroughs we were under the impression that to remove the hub we would have to take the spindle out to get the hubs off. After realizing that we were not going to get the spindle off of the ball joint without severely damaging it we bolted it back up, took the braker bar to the hub bolts, pulled them out and we were ready to go.

Earlier and after looking at the condition of my struts and driving for a several months with some little 'hoo'ing noises and shredded strut boots we also decided to change the struts out on all four corners.

Back to the rear end. We removed the struts and spring assembly, compressed the spring, installed the new strut and then went back to the car. We bolted and torqued the whole spindle assembly and links back together and then through in the new strut and spring. Got everything torqued down, installed new rotors and reinstalled the caliper with new pads.

Finally we had all of the rear end put back together, raised the car off of jack stands and on new, 5 lug, hyper black 5zigen FN01R-c 17 x 9 " +15 wheels. The rear end looked great, the new struts gave the car a much firmer feel and we called it a day. However, while we knew that the car needed an alignment i think it's current condition needs a little fixing before i drive it to the shop. The toe in on the passenger rear wheel seems severely turned in (not at right angles or anything, but noticeable if you look at it). Is this something that I can adjust with the help of the FSM or should i be fine driving it up to an alignment shop?

Secondly, everywhere we went we were unable to find boots for the rear struts. We were only able to find front strut boots. So if anyone has any ideas on shops where i could order new boots i would really appreciate it. Clear Lake Nissan, which is located in the Houston area said they could 'special order them for me.' Of course, knowing a dealership they wanted $70 a piece!

That's the end of the rear end. Everything's in order, all that needs to be done is purchase an extension fo rmy torque wrench so that ican torque that huge 36mm bolt onto the rear axle along with the cotter pins, cap, and minute things.

Now, here's where it gets fun. The front end seemed like it would be easy.

Break loose the lug nuts, jack up the car, remove wheels- and so on.

We unbolted the old weak single piston brakes for what's to come (4 pot z brakes). pulled off the hub, removed the hub cap, unbolted the front hub bolt. (looks really really tiny in comparison to the rear nuts. They're 32 mm if you're keeping track.)pulled the driver side hub off with easy.

Next we went to the passenger side and did all the same stuff, except the hub wouldn't slide off. Bring in the big 3 armed jaw puller and pulled off the hub. One problem. The passenger side hub 'exploded' so to speak and left some of its seized remnants on the spindle. To my dismay they will not budge. A heat gun did nothing to the rings, 'bolt braking' solvents haven't seemed to do too much to them either. I've yet to just try soaking it over and over with WD-40 and see if that penetrates after a while. Will try soon.
(SEE PICTURES POSTED AT END OF POST)

Currently, I'm stuck with no way to continue and finish up my project. I don't know if the spindle is shot and if i'll just have to buy a new one/one from a junkyard and unbolt the ball joints and put on a new one to continue or if there's some way to work these things off.

Secondly, assembling the front strut/spring assembly has been a pain. I've been unable to compress enough of the spring evenly to fit it onto the new strut, but i believe the guy we know at a local shop could assemble them for me easily so this isn't as big of a problem.

Synopsis:

In the middle of 5 lug and 300zx brake conversion. passenger front hub/bearing died on the spindle leaving remains, which are keepingme front installing new 5 lug hubs/bearings. Need assistance/advice on how to get these things off. Left to go is finishing the front suspension/hub/brake assembly, and installing the new 300zx master cylinder.

PICTURES

Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 4
Picture 5
Picture 6
Picture 7
Picture 8

projectRDM · 08-08-2005, 12:56 AM

Replace the spindle. You may able to get the bearing race off of it but it sounds like it at least scored the shaft on the spindle, I wouldn't chance it.

scir16v · 08-08-2005, 11:32 PM

Sounds to me like you need one of these

It's a bearing race separator. It works in behind the bearing race so that you can pull it off of there.

Alch · 08-14-2005, 01:55 PM

Pics of what I've done:

We started off with the rear end and didn't run into too many problems:

I ran into the problem up a seized inner race on my spindle. Several hours later...

Once that was off I really got around to putting the front end together.

Once all of that was put together we wired up the 300zx 1 1/16" master cylinder. I don't have too many pics of the process, but it basically involved using a harborfreight pipe bender and bear hands and slowly re routing my poor s14 hardlines into a new home.

Finally, everything was in place and we could bleed the system.

Uh oh! My brand new SS conversion brake line is leaking!

The line appears to be leaking from the area area underneath that black fitting (where the ss line meets the hardline). We've tightened everything down as best we could, but it's still leaking. I've contacted the business that I bought them from and hopefully this will be sorted out easily and i won't have to release any names.

Stock-S13 · 08-14-2005, 02:12 PM

Deleted........................................... ....

rancid240 · 08-15-2005, 11:33 AM

is it me or does it look like the hardline is totally stripped?

Stock-S13 · 08-15-2005, 11:46 AM

NO, it looks pretty bad, but that is not enough to reprture them to cause a leak so long as the threads are intact. More than likely there is a tear in the line that you cannot see, or aren't aware of. Happend to mine as well. Only hard part is getting that hardline to come off now, I forsee another post entailing methods of "how to": Vice grips or buy new ones.

I would go with the latter, those look like Heavy throttle SS lines to me maybe even PDM/Bridgestone. Mine too were HT. Going 3 years strong now after a return.

Alch · 08-15-2005, 12:55 PM

I'll be getting replacement lines soon enough in the mail. As for that flair nut - yeah, it's stripped a bit, but the other side of it has enough surfaces to use a wrench or vice grips get the job done. Luckily, none of my other lines look like that. That was just a stupid mistake. Anyway, I agree that there must be a tear in the line, as the leak is not coming from the threaded section.

08-07-2005, 08:37 PM	#1
Alch Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tx Posts: 28 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	In the middle of 5-lug/300zx brake conversion - Need Help This will be a pretty long post. Your assistance/advice would be very much appreciated. See pictures at the end! So, for the past several hours/days my brother and I been doing a full 5 lug conversion, front 300zx brakes, new rotors, and new wheels. You get the idea. Well, the rear section took forever. After reading several walkthroughs we were under the impression that to remove the hub we would have to take the spindle out to get the hubs off. After realizing that we were not going to get the spindle off of the ball joint without severely damaging it we bolted it back up, took the braker bar to the hub bolts, pulled them out and we were ready to go. Earlier and after looking at the condition of my struts and driving for a several months with some little 'hoo'ing noises and shredded strut boots we also decided to change the struts out on all four corners. Back to the rear end. We removed the struts and spring assembly, compressed the spring, installed the new strut and then went back to the car. We bolted and torqued the whole spindle assembly and links back together and then through in the new strut and spring. Got everything torqued down, installed new rotors and reinstalled the caliper with new pads. Finally we had all of the rear end put back together, raised the car off of jack stands and on new, 5 lug, hyper black 5zigen FN01R-c 17 x 9 " +15 wheels. The rear end looked great, the new struts gave the car a much firmer feel and we called it a day. However, while we knew that the car needed an alignment i think it's current condition needs a little fixing before i drive it to the shop. The toe in on the passenger rear wheel seems severely turned in (not at right angles or anything, but noticeable if you look at it). Is this something that I can adjust with the help of the FSM or should i be fine driving it up to an alignment shop? Secondly, everywhere we went we were unable to find boots for the rear struts. We were only able to find front strut boots. So if anyone has any ideas on shops where i could order new boots i would really appreciate it. Clear Lake Nissan, which is located in the Houston area said they could 'special order them for me.' Of course, knowing a dealership they wanted $70 a piece! That's the end of the rear end. Everything's in order, all that needs to be done is purchase an extension fo rmy torque wrench so that ican torque that huge 36mm bolt onto the rear axle along with the cotter pins, cap, and minute things. Now, here's where it gets fun. The front end seemed like it would be easy. Break loose the lug nuts, jack up the car, remove wheels- and so on. We unbolted the old weak single piston brakes for what's to come (4 pot z brakes). pulled off the hub, removed the hub cap, unbolted the front hub bolt. (looks really really tiny in comparison to the rear nuts. They're 32 mm if you're keeping track.)pulled the driver side hub off with easy. Next we went to the passenger side and did all the same stuff, except the hub wouldn't slide off. Bring in the big 3 armed jaw puller and pulled off the hub. One problem. The passenger side hub 'exploded' so to speak and left some of its seized remnants on the spindle. To my dismay they will not budge. A heat gun did nothing to the rings, 'bolt braking' solvents haven't seemed to do too much to them either. I've yet to just try soaking it over and over with WD-40 and see if that penetrates after a while. Will try soon. (SEE PICTURES POSTED AT END OF POST) Currently, I'm stuck with no way to continue and finish up my project. I don't know if the spindle is shot and if i'll just have to buy a new one/one from a junkyard and unbolt the ball joints and put on a new one to continue or if there's some way to work these things off. Secondly, assembling the front strut/spring assembly has been a pain. I've been unable to compress enough of the spring evenly to fit it onto the new strut, but i believe the guy we know at a local shop could assemble them for me easily so this isn't as big of a problem. Synopsis: In the middle of 5 lug and 300zx brake conversion. passenger front hub/bearing died on the spindle leaving remains, which are keepingme front installing new 5 lug hubs/bearings. Need assistance/advice on how to get these things off. Left to go is finishing the front suspension/hub/brake assembly, and installing the new 300zx master cylinder. PICTURES Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7 Picture 8

08-08-2005, 12:56 AM	#2
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 50 Posts: 13,812 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	Replace the spindle. You may able to get the bearing race off of it but it sounds like it at least scored the shaft on the spindle, I wouldn't chance it. __________________ FORMERLY R240NA Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

08-08-2005, 11:32 PM	#3
scir16v Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: St. Louis Posts: 171 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Sounds to me like you need one of these It's a bearing race separator. It works in behind the bearing race so that you can pull it off of there. __________________ Scott Driving Angle Motorsports

08-14-2005, 01:55 PM	#4
Alch Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tx Posts: 28 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Pics of what I've done: We started off with the rear end and didn't run into too many problems: I ran into the problem up a seized inner race on my spindle. Several hours later... Once that was off I really got around to putting the front end together. Once all of that was put together we wired up the 300zx 1 1/16" master cylinder. I don't have too many pics of the process, but it basically involved using a harborfreight pipe bender and bear hands and slowly re routing my poor s14 hardlines into a new home. Finally, everything was in place and we could bleed the system. Uh oh! My brand new SS conversion brake line is leaking! The line appears to be leaking from the area area underneath that black fitting (where the ss line meets the hardline). We've tightened everything down as best we could, but it's still leaking. I've contacted the business that I bought them from and hopefully this will be sorted out easily and i won't have to release any names.

08-14-2005, 02:12 PM	#5
Stock-S13 BANNED Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: so. cal Age: 38 Posts: 306 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Deleted........................................... ....

08-15-2005, 11:33 AM	#6
rancid240 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Irvine CA Posts: 2,770 Trader Rating: (72) Feedback Score: 72 reviews	is it me or does it look like the hardline is totally stripped?

08-15-2005, 11:46 AM	#7
Stock-S13 BANNED Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: so. cal Age: 38 Posts: 306 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	NO, it looks pretty bad, but that is not enough to reprture them to cause a leak so long as the threads are intact. More than likely there is a tear in the line that you cannot see, or aren't aware of. Happend to mine as well. Only hard part is getting that hardline to come off now, I forsee another post entailing methods of "how to": Vice grips or buy new ones. I would go with the latter, those look like Heavy throttle SS lines to me maybe even PDM/Bridgestone. Mine too were HT. Going 3 years strong now after a return.

08-15-2005, 12:55 PM	#8
Alch Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tx Posts: 28 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'll be getting replacement lines soon enough in the mail. As for that flair nut - yeah, it's stripped a bit, but the other side of it has enough surfaces to use a wrench or vice grips get the job done. Luckily, none of my other lines look like that. That was just a stupid mistake. Anyway, I agree that there must be a tear in the line, as the leak is not coming from the threaded section.