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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 10-04-2019, 07:00 PM   #1
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RB Rb20 s14 starts then dies STUMPED

Info on the car: 96 s14 originally manual non abs got as a roller with tubbed and painted engine bay. Because of this i had to relocate the underhood fuse box (put it in the arm reast) and battery (trunk). The only wires i messed with for the fuse box were extending the headlight wires around the driver side fender to the housings. All others were left alone and re plugged in.

Info on the swap: stock everything exept ls coils and act clutch. Main maintenance done on it oil water pump and all that. Wiring specialties pro harness with ls coil pack adapter oem ecu. O2 sensor unplugged because the previous connector melted together so i had to cut the wires to get the old harness off. Vss not hooked up and boost solenoid not hooked up either all of which i feel are unrelated.

Condition:car starts fine first crank but immediately dies after, wont even idle. Note im mostly working by myself so i couldnt open the trottle while starting or spray starter fluid in the intake due to the throttle cable needing to be swapped out.

At first the car wouldnt start at all. Did test found out it wasnt getting 12v to the starter signal wire so i jumped that relay and brought it to this situation. I dont know much about the under hood fuse box but the starter relay has two wires on the controll side one thats green and white that recieves 12v when in start and a small black and yellow on that doesnt seem to do anything. Tested the relay itself and its fine. I have no idea what this black and yellow wire goes to and why its not grounding to activate the starter relay. Which is what i think the cause of this situation is.

I jumped this relays controll side to get power to the starter signal when key is on start position but i think what ever section of the under hood fuse box isnt getting ground or power is also keeping it from idling when the key is in the on position. BUT!!! I checked all 3 grounds that this fuse box had and they are all connected and good. I also made sure the two large white wires on the back of the box were getting full 12v from the battery and they are. Am i leaving something un powered? I followed this black and yellow wire through the harnes to another relay under the dash where it had 2 black and yellow wires coming out the output. That relay tested fine too but after that i have no idea what comes before that

For shits and giggles i tested spark which it has and fuel which i believe it has. Pump primes and holds 40psi, unhooked the lines and it sprayed fuel into a bucket. I doubt its compression. Checked with maf unplugged and with it plugged in no change has a new k&n filter on it. Made sure i had no vaccume leaks or anything. Brand new battery like a week old ect.

Unless my fuel lines are hooked up wrong which i doubt but am open to it being a possibility i believe something isnt getting power or ground in the underhood fuse box. But i have nothing to compare it to again im doing all this by myself. If someone could tell me what gets a full 12v from the battery in this fuse box i feel like that might fix my problem.

side note the fuse box isnt in the casing anymore so i have easy access to the side terminals where there are 2 white and red wires on one terminal that i put to 12v. There is a black terminal that was cut before i got the car, tried to ground it and burnt the wire so i believe thats power but its not connected to anything at all. There is a terminal with a bolt that after i put 12v to it caused the windows and interior lights to work. And there is one white and red wire that goes under the fusebox seprate from the other 2. These are the only main connections i can see.

I feel like im rambling on but im truly stumped right now and im trying to get this thing running for a show in 10 days.
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Old 10-05-2019, 05:43 PM   #2
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Small update, unplugged tps sensor to see if that was it. No change. Tested to see if injectors were getting 12v which they are. Found a handful of blown fuses, replaced them no change.

That second relay mentioned above has a black and white wire and a black and pink wire on the controll side the white gets 12v going to try and follow the pink one to see where it grounds.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:31 PM   #3
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Pictures of the engine bay would help

As for your fuel lines: does it go from the filter, into the rail, then through the FPR, then into the return? RB fuel rail outputs are really close together so easily mixed up

So, make sure it doesn't go from fuel filter to FPR
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:57 PM   #4
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If ur lines were reveresed, it would start at all.....

Once it starts will it rev up at all? Or just crank..start...sputter.. die?
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Old 10-06-2019, 07:28 PM   #5
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Fresh fuel filter when doing the swap?

Might pay to pop the return line from the rail into a bucket to see if fuel is making it through. Cycle the key a couple of times to prime it
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Old 10-07-2019, 01:35 AM   #6
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Try unplugging the coolant temp sensor for the ecu and see how it runs.
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:43 AM   #7
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Pictures of the engine bay would help

As for your fuel lines: does it go from the filter, into the rail, then through the FPR, then into the return? RB fuel rail outputs are really close together so easily mixed up

So, make sure it doesn't go from fuel filter to FPR
I tried to add pictures it wont let me but ill try again. Currently its set up as feed line through filter into fpr then into the motor and return is just a line going back.
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:44 AM   #8
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If ur lines were reveresed, it would start at all.....

Once it starts will it rev up at all? Or just crank..start...sputter.. die?
As soon as it turns over it dies immediately cant even test if it will rev up went to try starter fluid today but now it wint even crank i think the starter just went on it
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:46 AM   #9
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Fresh fuel filter when doing the swap?

Might pay to pop the return line from the rail into a bucket to see if fuel is making it through. Cycle the key a couple of times to prime it
Yes and ill have to try that when i get it cranking again, i assumed yes because whenever i swapped lines it would be fule in the return line too
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:46 AM   #10
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Try unplugging the coolant temp sensor for the ecu and see how it runs.
Something to consider
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:49 AM   #11
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Update: checked flash codes on ecu and im getting the code that i think means all clear (5 slow flashes and 5 fast flashes)

Car no longer cranks i think the starter is done i can hear it click but thats it. Checked baytery terminals and voltage, tapped on it the whole 9 but its kind of wierd because it was cranking very healthy before it just stopped
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Old 10-07-2019, 11:57 AM   #12
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could the IAC cause this found the part where the connector is cracked to the point where it tries to hang off if you bend it a certain way, also have replacement starter coming tomorrow
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Old 10-07-2019, 12:49 PM   #13
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Currently its set up as feed line through filter into fpr then into the motor and return is just a line going back.
Hang on, feed line is going through filter then into FPR?????

That's wrong way round dude. Swap them over
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Old 10-07-2019, 12:55 PM   #14
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Fuel pump outlet-filter-fuel rail feed

Fuel rail outlet-fpr-gas tank return


Thats correct way
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Old 10-07-2019, 01:30 PM   #15
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Fuel pump outlet-filter-fuel rail feed

Fuel rail outlet-fpr-gas tank return


Thats correct way
imma swap them tonight and pray it works in the morning when i put the new starter in. these lines were out of wack when i first got the car as a roller so ive been trying all combinations, previous owner set it up
feed - fpr - inlet
outlet - filter - return
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Old 10-07-2019, 03:14 PM   #16
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Yea, the way u have it listed is backwards
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Old 10-08-2019, 11:45 AM   #17
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Yea, the way u have it listed is backwards
Swapped lines and nothing still holds 40psi.
My rb20 has 2 lines coming off the front and no rear fpr
The top lone has a fpr the other doesnt.

The line that had the oem fpr is what i have return hooked up to and the bottom one is the one i have feed hooked to. New starter is in and im back to square 1 where it only just cranks
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Old 10-08-2019, 12:02 PM   #18
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Okay....

Do you have spark? (Pull coil pack out insert spark plug and have the plug touching metal(aka ground) visiably see spark arking on the plug


Do you have injector pulse? On injector connector theres 2 wires..one wire will have a key on power. Make sure it does. The other wire will have a pulsing ground while cranking/running.

Check this and report back
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Old 10-08-2019, 12:47 PM   #19
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Question: how do you know it holds 40psi if it has a stock FPR? Do you have a gauge on the feed line?
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Old 10-08-2019, 12:51 PM   #20
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Okay....

Do you have spark? (Pull coil pack out insert spark plug and have the plug touching metal(aka ground) visiably see spark arking on the plug


Do you have injector pulse? On injector connector theres 2 wires..one wire will have a key on power. Make sure it does. The other wire will have a pulsing ground while cranking/running.

Check this and report back
tested power wire to injectors in on position had 12v, didnt check ground tho
tested coils earlier by pulling the coil with the plug and checking spark. shocked myself cuz im a numbskull . but that confirmed spark

when i get out of my classes at 5 ill check the ground side of the injectors hopefully i can find someone to crank the car while i test stuff out
show is in 7 days and im starting to really get stressed out
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Old 10-08-2019, 01:03 PM   #21
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Yes please check that pulsing ground on the injectors...lmk
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Old 10-08-2019, 02:22 PM   #22
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Question: how do you know it holds 40psi if it has a stock FPR? Do you have a gauge on the feed line?
Its not a stock fpr there anymore, i was just trying to describe my setup. I have one with a guage on it.
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:26 PM   #23
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Ok, so it's:

Feed line - filter - fuel rail inlet (old outlet, where old FPR was) - fuel rail outlet (was old fuel rail inlet) - aftermarket FPR w/ gauge - return

They weren't wrong when they said a picture says a 1,000 words lol

Try taking the CAS plug off. Check the pins aren't bent and give them a good spray with contact cleaner
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:49 PM   #24
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Ok, so it's:

Feed line - filter - fuel rail inlet (old outlet, where old FPR was) - fuel rail outlet (was old fuel rail inlet) - aftermarket FPR w/ gauge - return

They weren't wrong when they said a picture says a 1,000 words lol

Try taking the CAS plug off. Check the pins aren't bent and give them a good spray with contact cleaner
yea thats the current setup fuel line wise. ill check the cas as well when i get back really wish it would let me send the pictures i have im relatively new so idk if im doing it right or not but im trying to put them in as attachments. to the reply. ill keep trying tho
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Old 10-08-2019, 04:07 PM   #25
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You'll need to use an image hosting site dude. Google "post image" and once you've uploaded it, copy the Direct Link URL and use that
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Old 10-08-2019, 05:01 PM   #26
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Yes please check that pulsing ground on the injectors...lmk
Did a test on the ground wire of the injectors my multimeter showed 10v cranking im assuming its averaging it out. 12v on the power side at on the injecters in on position.

Sprayed fluid in the intake and it ran off that untill i stopped spraying (nice to hear how it sounds) so i know its fuel now i have 4 theories
-clogged injectors? But all 6 rubs me the wrong way
-clogged rail? But wouldnt any clogs increase my fuel pressure?
-bad gas? A friend of mine mentioned that the gas thats been sitting in the tank probably doesnt have enough octane in it to feed the car, i know nothing of this.
-need to upgrade fuel pump? I also feel like if this was the case it would run but just stall out or run really laggy
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Old 10-08-2019, 05:05 PM   #27
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Okay u can use a test light( or noid light) u need to test ground circuit on the injectors, while cranking they should pulse the test light on and off....thats the injector driver opening and closing circuit.
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Old 10-08-2019, 05:07 PM   #28
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You'll need to use an image hosting site dude. Google "post image" and once you've uploaded it, copy the Direct Link URL and use that
Thanks hope this works
https://postimg.cc/qg2XytYT

The top line is the return im assuming which is going to fpr and back to the return on the s14
Bottem line that goes to the left is what i have hooked up to the feed comming through the filter
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Old 10-08-2019, 05:08 PM   #29
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Your fuel lines are correct... were close to solving this...issue is injectors not firing...
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Old 10-08-2019, 05:09 PM   #30
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S14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud ofS14rebuild has much to be proud of
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Also if u remove the cam angle sensor, leave it plugged in, turn ley to ignition on, u can spin the cas by hand and u should hear the fuel injects clicking as u spin it....
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