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Old 09-25-2011, 10:58 AM   #7861
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My question involves an external fpr. I recently purchased an isis fpr but first it did not come with any of the fittings,. So first what size fitting goes into the fpr ( 6an or 6 orb fitting). Second is how to install it (hold the flaming)....I'm using the stock fuel rail & have an adapter, but does the fpr go between the filter & rail, or does it go on the return. I've seen it both ways, but want 2 make sure I purchase the right fittings. The final and last quwstion is is there a big difference performance wise if you upgrade the rubber lines to/from the rail if the stock line is only 5/16". Thnaks for the help
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:18 PM   #7862
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another problem ive ran into besides breaking off a subframe bolt is i cannot remove my exhaust because the bolts to the down pipe round off. my question is, is it possible to lower the exhaust enough to walk the subframe+diff out over the exhaust?
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:26 PM   #7863
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My question

Why the fuck does my check engine light keep going on? It goes on and off. But even when I erase it, it eventually goes on again within the day. Code 45 for leaky injector. I had I bad I injector, I swapped it out but it started leaking gas cause I didn't replacethe garmets. So I replaced all the garments on all four injectors. It's all good now, no leaks and it's dry and perfect, no more shitty idle. But why does the code still come on, then go off?
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:59 PM   #7864
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is there a way to remove S13 rear bearings without destroying it, leaving it transplant-able?
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:09 PM   #7865
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What's the fair asking price for a complete S13 RHD conversion? Complete means it's a JDM front clip.

Believe me I've searched.
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:10 AM   #7866
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noob question ,I have a idle problem with my s14(stock kade) every once in a while(every other day) my idle kind of drops low like
700-600ish and when i have the scanner hooked up the car isn't perfectly idling at 800 its dipping to 770,780 etc, what could cause this
problem ? someone said to check the vacuum hoses , what do i need to check them? i probably dont have the tool.

thanks in advance
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:47 AM   #7867
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I have a redtop sr20det in my S13 and it just will not start. Since we put the head back on we cannot get it to start. We've checked the timing multiple times, I got a new CAS, checked the ignitor chip, put in new spark plugs, checked the coilpacks and the injectors are shooting fuel. Any ideas?
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:44 AM   #7868
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Who makes 30mm over fenders for a s14. No fender flairs every thing seems to be 50mm
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:48 AM   #7869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillardkid121 View Post
I have a redtop sr20det in my S13 and it just will not start. Since we put the head back on we cannot get it to start. We've checked the timing multiple times, I got a new CAS, checked the ignitor chip, put in new spark plugs, checked the coilpacks and the injectors are shooting fuel. Any ideas?
probably already checked, but did you check the starter and battery? Lol. Or check all your grounds and what not to make sure no wires are broken, damaged, etc. Idk much about engines yet but some help is better than none.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:12 PM   #7870
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will an s14 flca work on z32/r32/g50?
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:16 PM   #7871
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When braking hard car stops solidy, doesnt pull to either side but my steering wheel clocks to the left a couple degrees. Does anyone know what part has gone bad on the steering column or is that even the problem. Just got an alignment too. S13
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:43 PM   #7872
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anyone know the best way to clean out oil from the rear hatch carpet shit?

dawn soap or something, idk
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:00 PM   #7873
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^Watered down degreaser and and a powerful hose or pressure washer.

Anyone know the thread pitch of the bolts that mount the A/C compressor bracket to the block on a ka24de? I used to have a bucket full of bolts to measure these sorts of things with, but it seems to have gone missing.
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:52 PM   #7874
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Help with color code of this please...

not sure if im posting in the correct section but i recently bought a set of these rims:

Rays Gram Lights 57D

in white:




but i wanted to get them painted in the "Luminous Yellow" color, dunno whats the color code tho. this one:




anyone of you guys know the color code for this? i tried google but its not the same color any help would be appreciated
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:56 PM   #7875
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Just get them powder coated Fluorescent Yellow and call it a day.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:02 PM   #7876
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really wanna get this exact color. it has a nice mix of green and yellow in their florescent forms. thnx for the reply tho. anyone else know the code?
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:11 PM   #7877
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call them and ask. say you have them, and you spilled some shit on it and paint is peeling and youre getting it painted/powder coated and you need the code

its safety yellow with a special name, pretty much
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:20 PM   #7878
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well the site says its "luminous yellow" but when i google it, doesnt look the same. just look like a regular bright yellow, not with the green touch. thanks for the idea tho, will give them a call, if that plan fails tho, anyone else with info?
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:24 PM   #7879
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Dash Lights questions/Problem

Sorry its such a small question,i searched and i didnt think it deserved its own thread, just thought i'd ask here first...

I had a probem a couple years ago with my dash lights/ hvac control lights not comming on, and i think it was after i installed a new stereo like everyone else... so i eventually bought the indiglow guage faces since i couldn't see the black guages at night( for a while i had a 9v battery with a couple LEDs shining at the guages)..

today i took the guage faces out (tired of the cheap look) and was trying to find out why the dash lights still didn't work... at this point im sooo confused... i saw that there was a jumper wire in the black dimmer switch plug, crossing the red/blue stripe and the red/yellow stripe.

i've gone through sooo many threads between zilvia,nicoclub,240sxforums.... anyway here is my situation..

Dome light/glove box light- works, no dimming.
Radio- Aftermarket, all wires comming from the radio harness are not used except the power/ground.
New dimmer switch is from a friends car i got a while back but never got around to try it.
Heres where i dont get it.. The fuses all check out ok (didn't check the engine bay one yet), the white box everyone says has the traces black/burnt up/seperated, nothing seems to be wrong with mine. tried the dimmer switch and nothing...

soooo the final attempt (i saw online) was to ground the red/yellow stripe wire from the radio (to atleast get volts to the cluster), so i turned the headlight switch on, and grounded it. the hvac lights came on.

so i let the wire go from the point i grounded it and i saw them stay on, but then the cluster lights dimmed on and stayed on. i have a couple lights missing from the cluster to shine on the rpm,gas,speed,and temp. but i switched one from the side, to the center spot and it dimmed on again. then i re-ground the wire and the hvac lights get brighter and the cluster lights dim.. what could be causing this? nothing else dims except the cluster when i connect the ground.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:27 PM   #7880
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:29 PM   #7881
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What's the fair asking price for a complete S13 RHD conversion? Complete means it's a JDM front clip.

Believe me I've searched.
$300 to be honest. That's what my friend paid for his full type r clip with EVERYTHING including all the carbon fiber trimming
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:37 PM   #7882
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haven't received a reply yet, so i'll ask again. while trying to remove my subframe on my s13 i snapped a stud off in the nut. i also cannot get a bolt off on the L shaped piece that goes on the lower side of the bushing bolt. i have circled in this pic where i broke the bolt off on the one that goes thru the bushing, and the bolt on the L shaped thing i can't get off. what are my options here on getting it out, and replacing it once its out? http://i51.tinypic.com/2h3vp8p.jpg

thanks
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:39 PM   #7883
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well the site says its "luminous yellow" but when i google it, doesnt look the same. just look like a regular bright yellow, not with the green touch. thanks for the idea tho, will give them a call, if that plan fails tho, anyone else with info?
call rays and send them back and have them repainted. its only like $40 a wheel, just gonna cost in shipping.
Remember to have them clear coated also, rays says the paint will fade within a year if you dont.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:47 PM   #7884
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I need the banjo bolt that goes in the top of the power steering pump (s13 sr) but the part number everyone seems to think is the one is not correct (# 01619-00011) anyone have a fried pump you don't need or can point me in the direction of the right part number??? Thanks
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:29 PM   #7885
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How much wider are stock Kouki fenders than stock Zenki fenders? I've heard that they are a tad wider but never known how much.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:58 PM   #7886
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What difference would it make having a AUTO TPS sensor on a manual car?

Never noticed till now that my TPS is for an AUTO lolololol. Been running fine for the last 3 years.

Just curious.
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:03 PM   #7887
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Does anyone know anything about Final Konexion coilover?
How do they ride. How well is the dampening? How low do they go.

Just have a chance at buying some from a local guy, just know nothing about them. Don't flame me for asking, I have searched so much for this info.
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:32 AM   #7888
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Always had a problem where i have to rev my car up to 2k just to get my alternator going. When i usually start the car i notice my voltage reading was around 11-12v but never more than 12, so i believe it just runs on my battery for that time being. BUT! when i rev my car up to 2k after i start my car, my voltage reads 13.7-14.5v and never drops lower, like when my alternator actually starts working. What could be the problem why my alternator doesnt start building voltage right when i start my car??

My battery indicator lights up every time i start the car now, do you think it's just my alternator taking a shit on me?

sr20 with perfectly fine belts btw.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:58 AM   #7889
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Aight guys I need someone to do the timing on my KA SOHC. It starts and runs, just bogs a little. Last time someone came to my house and did it for $40. How much should I pay someone to come and do it? Other isnt around anymore and I dont want to pay a ridiculous amount. I have a timing gun too, just dont wanna hastle with it myself haha..


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Always had a problem where i have to rev my car up to 2k just to get my alternator going. When i usually start the car i notice my voltage reading was around 11-12v but never more than 12, so i believe it just runs on my battery for that time being. BUT! when i rev my car up to 2k after i start my car, my voltage reads 13.7-14.5v and never drops lower, like when my alternator actually starts working. What could be the problem why my alternator doesnt start building voltage right when i start my car??

My battery indicator lights up every time i start the car now, do you think it's just my alternator taking a shit on me?

sr20 with perfectly fine belts btw.

I think its definitely the alternator
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:49 AM   #7890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmeistah21 View Post
Always had a problem where i have to rev my car up to 2k just to get my alternator going. When i usually start the car i notice my voltage reading was around 11-12v but never more than 12, so i believe it just runs on my battery for that time being. BUT! when i rev my car up to 2k after i start my car, my voltage reads 13.7-14.5v and never drops lower, like when my alternator actually starts working. What could be the problem why my alternator doesnt start building voltage right when i start my car??

My battery indicator lights up every time i start the car now, do you think it's just my alternator taking a shit on me?

sr20 with perfectly fine belts btw.
either you need a new alternator, or you have some sort of bad connection...i'd side with a new alternator. take it off and have autozone or something load test it and see, that way you'll know if it is the alternator or not.
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