Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoffman5982
Always enjoyed this guys channel. He runs caparisons on everything.
As for oils, Amsoil is the best stuff I've ran in the trans on my s13. I'll be changing my s14 to it soon. I'd love to run their oil in my engine but I can't get past the price. I run Mobil 1 in my Subaru, which I change at 5k miles because it's usually getting pretty dark at that point, Rotella T5 in my s14 because a jug fills it perfectly, it's cheap, and the car doesn't get driven too much, and I've started running vr1 in the drift car. Wix filters on all of them.
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FYI VR1 (especially the conventional) is a bit shit. I don't know what you get it for price wise, but it's got a poor viscosity index and noack volatility. I've seen cars have consistently high wear metals using it until they switch to a synthetic (even one of lower viscosity). I can't find the SDS on it, but all of Valvoline's "synthetic" oils are mostly Group III base stocks, so you're not much better off with the synthetic version. I'd imagine it's HTHS isn't great either, but they don't give any info on it in their product sheet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828
I didn't realize they reformulated... Is there a before and after on the transaxle oil? My previous trans didn't like shockproof during cold at all.... I live in california so should matter much....
I think he ran oils that he could get ahold of... Esther and Motul is pretty hard to get ahold without ordering.
VR1 I heard is pretty good too.... Why not Redline? They similar I heard.... VR1 expensive?
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I'm in Michigan, where I have to order basically all of the oils anyway hah. I haven't seen any specific before and afters, it's a lot harder to find virgin oil analysis on gear oils.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1on1
I've been using Delvac 15w-40 Diesel Oil. Cheap enough to change oil before and after an event and have been using it since I got my sr20.
Recommended by Martin as he runs this in his rx7.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-Del...1-gal/17034368
*Reminder, Oreilly's price match Walmart on oil. |
Why change your oil after each event? Seems like a waste to me. Even then, why not just run better oil and keep it for multiple events? I see this a lot in the car world, but just because someone recommends it doesn't mean it's great. I'm sure it works okay, but there are far superior oils on the market. The Mobil Delvac 1 0w-40 basically shits on the rest of the Delvac line as far as quality and spec go. It's thicker at high temp, thinner at low temp, has a higher HTHS, and a higher TBN. Even then, for a racing vehicle, it doesn't have an additive package that's anything special. I'd say it would make a fantastic daily driver oil.
For another example, Rotella T6 that all the Subi's run because they think it saves their engine is not a great oil. It's pretty much all severely hydrocracked group III base stock. It has an okay additive package and is a 40 weight, which is why it helps them survive. All the UOA's that I've seen have shown that it sheers to close to 30 weight rather quickly anyway. I know they did just do a new formula.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaggyjake
I love any opportunity to share this link:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/th...e-this.136052/
It is an incredibly detailed breakdown of how oil really works in your engine. The link isn't directly related to specific oils, but is full of awesome information. I read this about once a year and recommend it to any and all car enthusiasts. |
Wow, that is quite the article. Good explanations, but there's definitely some generalizing going on when talking about weights. 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 will not all have the same thickness at operating temp, despite the 30 number being the same. Nor will they have the same HTHS or Noack volatility.
Once I get my DSM running, I'm going to be doing an oil shootout of sorts on 0w40/5w40 weight oils.