[drifts135]

I have for sale a 1986 Corolla GTS hatch back that has just over 100k on the odometer ...but the miles mean diddly since it has had literally every part taken down to bare shell/no rubber and rebuilt or upgraded. Title is clean and ready to go.

I am going to forget to list literally half or more of the things done here.

Car started in 08 as a clean low mileage zero rust Midwest car that was driven from its home out west to MD. It was lightly modded over the next couple of years and drifted occasionally by my very OCD friend. We eventually SR swapped it, caged it and put the supra rear in it.

By 2010, the car wasn't really being used any more and the OCD really kicked in for him. He tore the car down to a bare shell and stripped it to bare metal. It was then rotisserie restored, stitched, all suspension mounting points either gusseted or reinforced with a double layer at the bolt holes. The car was cut for overs (high and clean. It's like art with the overs off of this thing ��). The whole bottom (belly and top side) of the car was POR15 coated as was the inside and outside of the bottom 6" of the doors.

All panels are basically bondo free besides the skim coat for blocking. (One door had some parking lot dings so he put a new oem Toyota door skin on that side ��. He's nuts).

The levin front is all OEM (except for the bumper and hood) and all brand new!!! Those lights are $$$$.

Panel gaps on this thing are better than a new car. No drift car ziptied panels. All oem mounting points used and bumpers are BOLTED to the bash bars with mm hardware and nylon spacers to prevent rub wear. Bumpers come off in about a minute each. Rad/intercooler/etc are all mounted in the cleanest most secure and professional looking way imaginable.

Mechanically the car should be bullet proof. The rear is a "supra rear" with 4.1 chryoed gears, new Trd crush washer thing, chromoly axels and a "weir?" Spool. I can get more info on the diff but it's basically everything you can do to make a supra diff bad ass.

Suspension stuff consists of the entire techno toy tuning catalog at the time of the build. The only thing they have available now that isn't on this car is the front LCAs (the oem ones are reinforced and have poly bushings though). Coilovers are Megan 32 way track units. Nothing leaks, nothing is damaged ...but be aware, it's a 4link car with all heim joints. You WILL be aware of that while driving it. Lol. Knuckles are cut. Aw11 rack. Rack spacers etc. car has tons of angle but the Ackerman is reasonable and it drives/handles very well/predictably.

Car has stand alone ebrake with willwood calipers and lock up at 70mph is a two finger affair. The rest of the braking system is upgraded but all of that mess escapes me now.

Engine is a black top SR. The lil fucker is HEALTHY. Has BC step 1 cams. New springs, stoppers, some other junk inside. Doesn't leak, smoke, rattle, overheat or do any other dumb stuff. There is a custom weld-L manifold to mount the 2871r small .ar turbo and a custom 2.5 to 3" dp to a full custom stainless mandrel bent exhaust. All welds are top quality and this shit is routed/mounted right. Trans is stock SR and has no grinds or anything. Clutch is exedy stage 2 and is as low mileage as the rest of these parts. The car has an 11lb flywheel (more on that later).Radiator is Corolla Koyo aluminum unit. Spal fan is on a switch so maybe it could do with putting that thing on a thermo switch to take the driver out of that equation (I'm not picking). The combo makes just over 360whp on a mustang dyno at 18lbs and will spin the tires in 3rd on a straight road by simply putting it on the floor and waiting for boost to hit. It's CRAZY. It is a lot like holding a stick of dynamite in your had and expecting to contain the explosion there. It gets really busy behind the wheel really fast. ��.

(((The 11lb flywheel and the lack of BOV add up to an occasional stall if RPMS are allowed to drop too quickly))) ...get used to it or please put a damn stock weight flywheel in there/add a recirced BOV.

The bought body parts (beyond the oem levin bits are as follows. Origin...everything. Origin stream kit. Origin overs. Oh, and the hood is seibon Carbon with cheap (to me) sparco hood pins. The paint is from a 2009 Mazda three and the code is easy to replicate. The car was painted apart and there are NO paint lines inside any jambs. The jambs are just like a new oem car. Perfect!!! The door seals and all trim seals are pretty much new (like two pieces aren't) and all are in great shape. You have to see this car's paint in person to believe it. No trash. No orange peel. It's amazing.

Interior is almost all there save for the carpet and back seat stuff. All the rear trim is in place and the car as a nice stereo and all four speakers in oem locations. The arm rests are off but come with the the car. (They touch the cage a tiny bit when installed and would eventually leave marks in em). The driver seat is tandem legal as is the harness but the passenger seat is oem. Car has all stock wiring in place and all acc work BUT the oem heater has been replaced with a smaller/lighter/more efficient hot rod heater and man does it crank out the heat/defrost. Love that thing! The oem cluster works and all gauges read, but imthey are supplemented by knock off defi stepping motor gauges for oil pressure, temp, boost and tach. ((((Disclaimer. Oem tach works intermittently. It did this before the swap. ��).

Batter is a new AGM so no need to mount outside of cabin.

Car was finished in 2012 and sat until December 2015 untouched it was never driven more than 25-50milesin in December 2015 i de-mothballed it. Changed the fluids. Stuck fresh wheels/tires on it and drove it ONE event were it worked flawlessly. I however am scared to damage it and want a more "beatable" car to have fun in. This car WILL do all of that, but I am tired of babying nice cars and want something more.... Relaxed. Lol.


I want to trade this thing for something more drift beater friendly/more parts replacement friendly. Or, sell this bitch for cash and buy/build another s chassis. There is easily $25k + in the car. I'm asking $9500 or make trade offers. If you offer a trade, I do NOT generally want an SR trade but will consider em.

Car is in MD and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it 1k miles back to anywhere! Gimme a days war I g and I will change the oil for ya.

((((Pics are a mush mosh of build pics, event pics (dec 2015) and some from out in front of the house. Car is currently trapped in a small snowed in garage so no new ones till this weekend. Interior is duuuuuusty but nice.))))

Offer up trades or come give me cash for one of the nicest and most stoutly built ae86 hatches in the country!!!!

If the inbox is full, text me at Kyle-443 824 9534



Ps. I'm not afraid of ANY type of grey market trade. No title? No problem. I need a fun track car anyway. ...or I'm always willing to get creative titling. Lol.