Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
ls V8 pros:
some cheap iron blocks are almost free and do 500-600rwhp with a valvespring and water injection turbo
the lighter, aluminum version supports even more 800rwhp and holds some kinda records (L33) still cheaper than a 2J and probably weighs less ("the new/next 2JZ")
Auto includes torque management factory for auto daily driver (ex. rain)
The stock Gen 3 iron blocks will hold up longer under FI. A local to me runs his 6.0 LQ4 at 10 lbs of boost and did a reliable 550rwhp on pump 93. LS's are also very easy to work on.
Gen 4 LS stuff (LS3, L98) are coming down in price now too. As a note, L33's aka the Aluminum 5.3 are also getting hard to find. If you want FI, run an iron block. Also; the OE ECU can be unlocked and re-flashed as if it were a stand alone unit, you just can't add in extra inputs/outputs.
ls cons:
the light ones are expensive Depends
the cheap ones are heavy Also depends, see below
the best auto transmission 4l80e is so heavy inside it limits economy, at 3000lbs it may be low as 25mpg, depends on gearing
8 spark plugs now, can you reach them all?
Etc....
Ok now add all the ones I missed or fix the sentences so they are true (and then vote on a best engine based on pros and cons)
Every now and again you'll find an LS1 (the aluminum 5.7) for as little as $900 for a short block. The LQ9 (iron 6.0 with flat top pistons) are kind of expensive ($1100 or so) for what you're getting.
I have no experience with the 4l60/80 in a sports car, so I have nothing to add there. That being said, the economical trans option is the CD00X conversion. A used, stock t56 in good working order is getting more expensive/hard to find. The TR6060 is prentiful, but expensive at around $3300 brand new.
Spark plug access depends entirely on header choice and the chassis you're putting it in. An LS in any s-chassis is easy to service provided that you do not use the CX Racing headers.
The next thing with the LS is making sure you run an adequate cooling system. Don't expect the mishi fan/shroud combo for the ka/sr to be enough to keep an LS cool. Ideally you'd want to run a true dual pass rad and the biggest Dual Derale fan system you can fit.
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I added my points to OP's post in red. As far as real world experience, I have 200+ track hours on my LS1. Map tuned for a 233/239 cam on pump 93. Made a safe 380rwhp, And I have driven it up to 4 hours at a time on the street.. If it weren't for the cage and fuel cell, this would be a proper daily driver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX
Meh. VET, and get weight, the awesome flowing head and 30mpg. All said and done you'd be in it for the same as a 2J, but with less packaging headache, heat, and more flexibility.
The head is the key to the SR.
Personally I would put the VET against the LS or 2J for a legitimate comparison
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Would you run the VET or JZ on pump 93 and expect long term reliability? I would say probably not. Us LS folks regularly make reliable power on pump 93. So for those reading this, also consider your fuel budget.