Not a very complicated install, but I took a bunch of pictures while doing it so why not.
Cost: $150 shipped from ebay (some nissan dealer)
Time Required: 1-3 hours depending on how many hands you have, took me 2 hours by myself while taking pictures.
Tools:
PB Blaster
1/2" Torque wrench
10mm socket, 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 19mm socket
17mm wrench
Before we begin I would just like to note that this is the perfect time to upgrade your tension control rods and sway bar bushings/end links.
TCR = Tension Control Rod
The steps basically break down as follows:
Remove the TCR
Unbolt the sway bar bushing bracket
Unbolt the TCR bracket
Repeat for the other side
Install the new power brace with a friend or a jack stand to hold it up(jack stands are technically your friend)
The power brace ready to go in
If you don't have PB blaster you don't know what you're missing.
Get a lot of PB blaster into the bolts that hold on the TCR bracket, you can see how rusty mine were, they came out without an impact gun just fine after soaking.
Unbolt the power steering line bracket (10mm)
Unbolt the TCR from the LCA (19mm)
Unbolt the TCR from the bracket (17mm for nut and bolt, use a wrench for the side closest to sway bar)
TCR removed (yes my lower pan is leaking =[, not it's not through the casting)
Unbolt the sway bar bracket (14mm)
Now the TCR bracket can be removed, theres 3 bolts towards the front, 2 hold it to the chassis 1 bolts to the rad support bracket just above this)
(17mm chassis(x2), 14mm rad support)
And one more near the sway bar bracket (17mm)
When you remove the first bracket, the sway bar will remain in place since the other side is bolted in so it won't fall since its basically wedged in there, so just slide the bracket out.
Repeat the same steps for the other side, however when removing the bracket don't take the bolts out all the way since it will just fall, it doesn't way much but I wouldn't want to get smacked in the face with one. Also note the sway bar will swing down when you remove the bracket so be sure to hold on to it when removing the bracket.
Out with the old, I know you are wondering about the nismo sticker, were getting to that.
I soaked all the TCR bracket bolts in PB just for good measure
If you are by yourself you can just use a jack stand to hold the other side of the power brace up while getting the first side in. Be sure NOT to tighten down the bolts all the way until the bracket is aligned for both sides, just snug them enough so the bracket wont fall but can slide around to adjust.
Once you have all 6 bolts in place (3 per side) you can torque them down to 80-94ft/lb (17mm), the 2 14mm rad support bracket bolts just tighten down by feel after the bracket is tightened down.
Install the sway bar bracket, once both brackets are snugged in place torque them to 30-36ft/lb (14mm)
Now put the TCR in place, put the rod end in first and just thread the nuts on, then put the bushing side in and fit the bolt through and thread the nut on. Once the bushing is in place and tightened down a bit you can torque down the rod end to 69-83ft/lb (19mm)
Now Torque down the TCR in the bracket to 80-94ft/lb (17mm/wrench)
Installing the other TCR is the same obviously. Next we put back on the bracket for the power steering line (10mm)
Admire your hard work
The last step is probably the most important, apply with ~2ft/lb (finger)
Unfortunately you sacrifice engine bay stand-ability (the ability to stand inside your engine bay with the motor in for occasions like, removing the head by yourself)
Driving Impressions:
WOW, honestly the car really feels a lot better. The front end just feels much more solid, it tracks better, got rid of highway vibration, feels more solid going over bumps, steering feels more solid, cornering feels tighter, with my setup the car feels more neutral (tightening up the front end will tend to induce under steer). I would absolutely recommend this or at least bracing your stock TCR brackets like some do.