Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX
To fix this, you simply drill the threads out of the block, and tap them for an M11 sized stud. Then you can use Evo 9 (IIRC) ARP 625+ headstuds and have much better clamp load. You must also drill the holes in the head bigger so there's no binding or oiling issues.
The hardcore guys drill them out and tap for M12, where you can use a VG30DE or RB26 stud, which come in ARP2000 or 625+. You're not going to need any more serious of a stud than this. I'm not sure if it's the same with the M11, but with the M12 studs, you actually have to bore the openings in the head where you access the nut, as this becomes too small for the required socket.
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Time serts are better suited than just re tapping the block for m11s. m10 major diameter is still bigger than the minor diameter of m11, so unless the m11 rethreading is perfectly timed to the original threads, it'll end up with loose threads. There's a timesert kit available that will rethread a block for m11 time serts. Also with the higher clamp loads, the ARP provided washers will still cause head lift since the diameter of the washers are smaller than oem. ARP's 200-5098 insert washers will solve that. Apparently that is an issue with a bunch of different engines at higher clamping loads.