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Old 02-28-2013, 04:12 PM   #106
Teigen
Zilvia Junkie
 
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Dark side of the moon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANoLEN View Post
Sweet build! I'm sub'd
Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by boyou2 View Post
Haha, i'm not the only crazy guy to do it
Haha, I also mainly did it to smooth them out, so the water flows better. but in the en I began porting them a little, as i noticed my cylinder head gasket could handle 1 mm diameter larger size. Did this on both of the blocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by bc. View Post
did you guys match the ports on the head too?
Yes, I did. Actually it's nothing much tho, its just to smooth out the leftovers/sandy surface from when the blocks/heads were casted It is nothing important before going over 600 hp. Anyway I got 2x electrical waterpumps from meziere that delivers 76 litres per minute, each so flow won't be a problem anyway

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willy077 View Post
Actually price for Sellholm sequential gearbox is different:
"Hi Vitaly
ThankĀ“s for your intrest in our transmisions.
Se atached info conserning the 2wd box.
A cpl box with leaver,indicatoretc is SEK 87000+Vat SEK
for the mst common boxes.
Led time 3-4 weeks.
Kind Regards Rikard Eliasson Sellholm Tuning AB"

According today's rate it's about 13400 USD
Same box from Drenth will be couple of grands more

And Xtrac are making totally different transmissions, your unit look like Sellholm/Drenth MPG one
Yes sorry about that, I didn't check over the currency, just based it off some "wild guess", my bad. I also meant that the shifting system outside the gearbox if x-trac. Not the gearbox itself

But then again I must ask you, did you come to this build thread only to ask this? :P


________________________________

Photobucket trolled me so I could not log in and into my albums to get the codes for the images so the update had to wait..
Update:


So, the block that originally was in the car has been sleeved and bored to a 90mm diameter, making it a 2,2 litre with OEM stroke. I do not want to stroke any more than this, as it would limit my revving of higher RPM's. the turbo I am having ATM will not start spooling before the 5500 rpm mark, at least not notable. Later this season, depending on the economics, I will have a fully custom built turbo made for my specific engine, by a dude in Sweden.


Also had both blocks line drilled so I can have a custom bearing for the crankshafts with 0,04 mm clearance.



As for porting the waterports in the block, this is how it turned out.


the original waterpump housing/mount on the SR20 blocks have a pretty small clearance stock. specially on the RWD sr20 blocks, the areal inside for the water to pass is even smaller than the fwd blocks, the rwd blocks have a 45% smaller areal inside, than the size of the inlet of the block. Here you can see the little "wall"

Note: if you are going to rund the OEM mechanical waterpump this can not be removed, but if you use electrical waterpump(s) like me this is a rather good thing to do.

This is how it starts to look after some work



after this picture was taken I spent 20 minutes on each block with sandpaper by hand to get it as smooth as possible, used a very tiny diamond grinder attached to my Dremel in where the sandpaper was not getting

this is the inlet of the RWD block,before and after I removed about 5mm of material



Now, the water have one less obstacle to pass in order to get into the block

About the cylinder head, I finally got the custom Supertech titan valves, and had them mounted. All I can say is that I really look forward to start that motor, I think it's going to be a very very neat DET

I got some nasty plans for the other block, but that will be a project of the future.

Tubeframed, Twincharged, methanol injected? o.O

Woops only thinking loud

Peace!




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