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Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

FYI VR1 (especially the conventional) is a bit shit. I don't know what you get it for price wise, but it's got a poor viscosity index and noack volatility. I've seen cars have consistently high wear metals using it until they switch to a synthetic (even one of lower viscosity). I can't find the SDS on it, but all of Valvoline's "synthetic" oils are mostly Group III base stocks, so you're not much better off with the synthetic version. I'd imagine it's HTHS isn't great either, but they don't give any info on it in their product sheet.



I'm in Michigan, where I have to order basically all of the oils anyway hah. I haven't seen any specific before and afters, it's a lot harder to find virgin oil analysis on gear oils.



Why change your oil after each event? Seems like a waste to me. Even then, why not just run better oil and keep it for multiple events? I see this a lot in the car world, but just because someone recommends it doesn't mean it's great. I'm sure it works okay, but there are far superior oils on the market. The Mobil Delvac 1 0w-40 basically shits on the rest of the Delvac line as far as quality and spec go. It's thicker at high temp, thinner at low temp, has a higher HTHS, and a higher TBN. Even then, for a racing vehicle, it doesn't have an additive package that's anything special. I'd say it would make a fantastic daily driver oil.

For another example, Rotella T6 that all the Subi's run because they think it saves their engine is not a great oil. It's pretty much all severely hydrocracked group III base stock. It has an okay additive package and is a 40 weight, which is why it helps them survive. All the UOA's that I've seen have shown that it sheers to close to 30 weight rather quickly anyway. I know they did just do a new formula.



Wow, that is quite the article. Good explanations, but there's definitely some generalizing going on when talking about weights. 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 will not all have the same thickness at operating temp, despite the 30 number being the same. Nor will they have the same HTHS or Noack volatility.

Once I get my DSM running, I'm going to be doing an oil shootout of sorts on 0w40/5w40 weight oils.

I think they were running T5 vs T6 in Project farm and there was way more TBNs in T5 and T4 Than T6...... He said it was weird as it was sent for analysis......

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Amsoil Signature Series, Redline, or Motul 300V in 5w40 variety (Amsoil only has 0w40). Depending on how often you change it, you could use 0w40 in the colder months for sure. I like Redline the best, but that is personal preference. You can't go wrong with any of those. Motul Sport 5w40 is available for a great price on Amazon if budget is a concern, but you might want to consider mixing it with a quart or two of 300V to boost the additive package.

If you had opened up the rods a little you could do 5w50+ and have a little more load capacity, but C'est la vie.

Here's some valuable articles to read on clearance vs oil weight vs load capacity and such.

https://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/do...ngine_bearings

http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/dok...ngine_bearings

Dude... I ran Redline because it was down the street vs. driving like 30 minutes to get amsoil. For Redline after I idle the car to cool the oil down a bit, on shut off, I could still here the turn spinning so freely, its pretty amazing shit..... So now that I can't get redline so close, probably amsoil now hahaha