Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic
Neat Build.
Toyota had me freaked out for a second, looks like a EM/EK Civic front. Oh Toyota.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rellik27
Looking good so far
Lol I thought the exact same thing.
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Cheers lads. Most people here think its a corolla from front on haha. Honda scene is pretty small.
Had a little bit of time to work on the car lately, so I started prepping to rebuild the rear callipers. Turns out that the kits don't have the mating o-rings, and the only ones I could find at work ended up having too much protrusion. Will need to pick some up from the local supplier.
Really need to clean up this shambles. Too much tooling sitting around. Need to get a job where I can keep it all at work. #firstworldproblems
Probably a good thing that I didn't have the o-rings, as the way some of these parts looked was doing my head in.
The pin closest to the camera was still dirty, the one further away has been hit with brake cleaner and a light sand. As these are the retaining pins for the pad, I couldn't bring myself to drive the car knowing they were in this condition. I ended up ordering new pins all around. They'll come with the seal kits and a new brake light switch stopper (the green plastic bit on the pedal lever) as I've replaced it on every Nissan that I've owned.
Happy with how the retaining springs were coming up.
No real corrosion, just some light marking. Came off with a quick light sand. Ran out of sandpaper, will get more and finish sanding the tight crevasses before fitting.
Didn't take a pic of the pin retainers, but they're fine. Will do so when I assemble the callipers.
Got bored with taking photos of the brakes for no real reason, so I started chopping the loom up for relocation. So far, I've cut out all the sections that I will need to run up to the headlights/horn/Air con receiver-dryer. I'm going about it similar to CamryOnBronze and running those up each frame rail under the guard. My plan was to run the relay box under the dash, but put the fuse box into the battery box. I'll have to wait and see when I get closer to the finish line. For now, here is what I cut out of the loom.
Lots more to come in that department.
While I was online ordering things, I got a bit carried away. I'm getting a price for an ORC twin plate kit shipped, so hopefully that won't be much more than I'm expecting. The purchase price is cheaper than RHDJapan, just hoping they don't rape me on shipping and tax.
So the twin plate would normally kill an SR box after the first clutch kick. So, I kinda gave the standard box to a friend in exchange for modifying some steering components (they'll be done in the next week I hope, so more on that later). Not really an issue, because I bought a z33 6-speed off him a couple of years ago when he was short of cash.
Again, I got carried away when ordering and decided that the best conversion kit is made in Australia by one of the ID boys, Para.
https://www.facebook.com/InsaneDrifters/
No such thing as a 'Pro' drifter here really. These boys are competing at the highest level in Australia though, so that's kinda the same thing.
I'm sending my bell housing down to him in Victoria this week for machining. It gets machined, matched to a plate and dowelled before he test fits it to make sure it all goes together properly.
It comes with a custom made braided line (I'm getting mine done in black), single piece tail-shaft (optional extra, you can get a front half only and keep the two-piece), and a gearbox crossmember that lowers the rear of the box slightly, and still allows use of the standard rubber s13 mount (I'll end up buying a nismo one). But that isn't even the best bit!
It's the newest design shifter. Comes out in the standard location and even features reverse lock-out. Much excite, many wow. No modification of the trans tunnel needs to be made, and everything clears without the need to bash the crap out of your chassis.
I did ask if the lean would affect the motor or the tailshaft pinion angles, and he assures me that it all works fine. The rear of the motor is down approx. 3mm from standard, and that the tailshaft angles work correctly. That includes the single piece ones used in many 350rwkw+ cars down south. If it does look a bit suss when I fit it up though, I'll probably machine or space the diff housing to suit the angles better.