So I got the car moved to my friends workshop - mad shoutout to Chazza - that's attached to Proximity. He had plenty of space, a hoist and let me come and go without bothering any of the Proximity employees during business hours.
I immediately started working on the oil cooling system. I've somehow managed to acquire 2 Trust/Greddy remote mount filter systems with the built in thermostat, so I'm using one of those with a Project Mu filter that Proximity had in stock.
As you can see, I made up a bracket out of some scrap ally plate that was laying around the shop, gave it a quick clean using some purple metal polish and attached it using some factory mounting holes in the chassis. I made it high enough so that I could fit 90degree fittings onto the bottom ports that run along the chassis rail, out to an oil cooler mounted between the intercooler and radiator. I will move this in future, as I want to refit my A/C at some point.
Here is a terrible photo of how I've mounted the oil cooler.
So, you can kind of see how I've got the cooler mounted. It's a bit of stainless pipe, where I've ground down some M6 nuts to make them cylindrical, pressed them into the pipe, tac welded them in and made a tab to fasten to the chassis. I've got the top mounted using the gold conical washer you can see in the rad support, the bottom is mounted the same way using another conical in the lower support.
I've used all black nylon braided line with polished fittings (so you can't scratch the colour off them) on this system.
I can't seem to find any photos of the finished product on the engine, but I've used a TAARKS (now EFI Performace) branded remote filter plate, which houses an oil temperature sensor. It's a bolt on, machine alloy plate, anodised black with polished fittings.
I also had Leon start to fab up my cooler piping. Because I love the Japanese style of building a car, I went for alloy pipes rather than stainless, donuts rather than lobster.
While he was completing that, I started working on the interior, and electronics. I haven't gotten around to fitting the ZD, and I probably won't because I think it's fake (even though I paid the Defi tax), but I'm running a Power FC D-Jetro that came with the car when I bought it (9ish years ago).
I've also relocated the fuse and relay boxes into the glovebox, but I'm not happy with how it's run, so I'll be making my own relay and fuse box setup in the future and mounting it in there properly. With the way I'm thinking of going, I won't be able to use the glovebox, but even my daily doesn't get driven very often with work being what it is.
Here you can see I've mounted a motorcycle battery in the boot, in a Moroso Sealed Battery Box. I've used 0 gauge B&S (dual shield) cable, sheathed in whatever crap conduit I could find. It currently runs under the car, along the chassis rail. It needs re-doing at some point too, but it works for now.
Not sure what I took this picture for, but everything is in dire need of a clean haha. For anyone curious, I'm using the drum handbrake out of my old R32, with Project Mu pads. After running this, and having driven other cars with Hydros, I'll never put anything else in a street car. Maybe a full comp car, but I still don't really see the point.
My wiper arms had been painted blue by a previous owner, it was pretty nasty. Ended up re-painting them gloss black. Came out pretty good. Much better than I expected.
Made up a fire extinguisher bracket out of some stainless strap. It picks up both seat mount bolts, and lets you bolt the extinguisher in place without the need to drill through the floor/carpet/mat. It's just eyeballed and bent in a vice then tig-weld together.
Photo post-wiring, pre-vacuum. I promise, I cleaned it
Not much left, then we're all caught up!