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Old 09-04-2013, 10:57 AM   #339
Mannykiller
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Quartz Hill
Age: 35
Posts: 833
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Update:

Wellllll Back onto the beat. I was working some 15 hour days for the past week or so... don't even know how long.....actually I believe it was 9 days in a row. When you work like that...it really feels as if you never left your job. Wake up at 5:45...work from 6:45 to 3pm..then haul Aceeee to my other job and clock in at 4:15..and work to 11:30pm. Seems like one continuous shift and you never really feel like you clocked out haha. But It's nice at the same time because you get a hefty pay day and before you know it...the 9 day span is over. :icon_tup:

ANYWAYS!

I decided to swap my IRP poly motor mounts out for the new Full Function Engineering Height Adjustable Motor mounts and Billit Arms. I'm running their aftermarket Trigger Kit, Both Primary and Secondary rails, and i'll most likely purchase whatever they develop next. It's awesome that all of their products are so high quality and I think its rad that a newer company is still developing new high quality products for a 20 year old chassis. Mad Props to these guys!!:icon_tup:

The mounts came with hardware and they installed very easily. The install was straight forward if you've ever installed motor mounts, but if you havn't you may want to do a little research, but practically anyone can install these if you've ever turned a wrench before. I chose to keep the OEM height.....which is the Middle height hole just to make sure that my Intercooler lined up with my turbo outlet.

Here are some pics of the install:

Bare motor

They look so nice man.....sooo nice.. All bolt holes line up nice and they even included a large hex drive for the bolts so you don't have to run out and scramble for tools :icon_tup:

Here you can see the height adjustable brackets the Mounts come with... I had them on the lowest setting but ended up changing them to the middle one for OEM height just so I didn't run into any problems. I can most likely run the lowest setting if I pull my IC spacers out and just run the doh doh's. I'll experiment when I have time:icon_tup:

I also installed my new Exedy Twin Disc Cerametallic discs and Intermediate plate... Got them for a slamming deal too.. if anyone needs replacement discs just pm me and i'll give you who I went through. But there is no lower price shipped:icon_tup:

^^^My Baker Fire sleeve came in as well, so I covered my Oil cooler feed line as it runs and sits up against a few other lines. Better safe than sorry!:icon_tup:

I've also been wanting to install my AEM digital Fuel Pressure gauge and sensor. I wasn't sure where I should install it but realized that I should put it right at the source, so I got a brass fitting from amazon for some 3 bucks or so and installed it on my Fuel Pressure Regulator. The "T" fitting screws right in and the fuel pressure gauge sensor plugs into the bottom port while the Original Gauge faces forward. I think I may be needing a new gauge though because the one I have was leaking some jelly crap:scratch:
This is a bad picture but here's what it looks like after the install

Here is the Digital gauge inside the cabin installed. I'm glad I left room for the extra gauge.... Fits well and I love Digital gauges. I hate looking at old school analog needles and lines. I just want to be able to look and instantly know what my fuel pressure, egt's, and AFR's are. :icon_tup: Came out nice though:icon_tup:

THEN once again....for the third time... I had to cut my Oil filler neck. Since I am switching back to the OEM UIM it fit....but to fill it I would need to move my cast elbow and that is just plain stupid. SO I cut it and my buddy DAN at a new race car shop out here called GS-Werks Welded it up for me. Angled it in towards the P/S unit.

Bad quality pic warning

I also took the time to cover the long Oil cooler line from my primary oil cooler to the second Passenger side oil cooler as well. A lot of my Electrical sits right up against it and last thing I want is to start having some intermittent electrical because of lack of "care."


And then it was time to fill her up with coolant and Oil. My Radiator bleed worked like a Charm,...shout out to my buddy Phillip Stewart for the Idea. The system is a breeze to bleed now. Don't even really need the Lisle Funnel..but I used it anyways. So I hooked up all my electrical plugs. Did a fuel leak test by simply turning on my fuel pumps....listening and looking with a flash light, and looking under the car.....and all was good. Primmed the whole system, and cranked her without fuel pressure to get some oil pressure going and once again it was crank time.
Here's my start up again haha. Had to use ghetto throttle line bracket mcguiver channel lock system to mount the throttle cable till my bracket comes in.. But she fires right up no problem. Hopefully this video works:

20130902_132956_zpsb3d5b66f.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
if not try this one

I forgot to say...I switched back to an OEM TPS so I wired that in correctly and calibrated it in seconds with the Adaptronic Software before the first start.

It was nice to pull the motor again because I was able to clean all the little things I left un-prioritized up. no grime or dirt anywhere now, which is always a plus.

You can also thank Jaime Gonzales for painting the throttle body gold. What a jerk... I'll clean it up when I apply the gold heat reflective to the underside of the UIM.

So that leaves one thing left. I need to have a charge pipe fabbed up. Which really shouldn't be to hard or time consuming. I have aluminum tube and i'll probly cut it myself in my garage and take it to someone to have welded up.
Here's the section that I need to have done:

So I took her for a nice little test drive up the street and back. Sounds great, no leaks, no over-heating, no air in system... so i'm loving it. I did have to replace my battery though. The car had a weak crank so I had to hook up the charger. After I got back from the test drive the car died in the drive way and I was unable to start it again without a jump from my trusty prius. This battery had been giving me problems so I took it back to autozone and got a fresh one with the warranty. Luckily they switched it out no questions asked and the fresh battery turned the starter nice and fast.
Here are some random pics




That leaves me to the current. I have a full fd-legal cage appointment set for the last week of this month. But I'm not sure If I want to keep it or prolong it and go get the car tuned. I need to break in the clutch....so if anyone has the correct method and doesn't mind sharing please let me know. Otherwise i'll search it haha. But I was told to rev her out to 4k and do 3 10 Second long clutch slips, and that should do it.
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