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Old 08-27-2019, 03:55 PM   #13
brndck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
The sr20det never came to America. I think that is why its so hard to find a good machinist in America that does sr20det already for many years.

I can't name a single place that does good sr20 rebuilds. I tried a couple locals to me just out of curiosity, got the engines back in all out of sorts. One had the timing chain on wrong, and the wrong head/oil pan surface and leaked from the headgasket oil constantly. One forgot to put all the bolts back into the head and oil pan. A next one bled all of the oil OUT of the lifters and left them all full of air.

I mean holy shit this stuff isn't even that hard. Forgetting bolts? You don't need to be an sr20 expert to not forget the bolts. But there you go

Have had some friends with success, but we are talking fully built forged pistons and head work, 5-10k engine rebuilds. That get barely driven. I think one has close to 3000 miles on it after 4-5 years. So who knows how long its really going to last? It's not an accurate comparison to say "yeah I had an SR built ten years ago and its fine" because that might only be 10k miles, but thats the sort of thing people are going to tell you when you ask where to get your engine build "I had mine built at so-and-so ten years ago and it's been great" (but I only drive it once a month)

If the engine has low miles then all the above advice is great, oil it up, turn it easy, clean it the best you can all reachable areas but don't take it apart. Just run it. Compression test and if compression is low it might just need the valves cleaned, they get hard carbon buildup and then stick open.
Remember while it sat some of the valves were open and there is a very high chance the surface coating of carbon is 'mobile' think of an amorphous solid, so over (long period of) time it sort of 'dribbles' slowly into positions where normally the valve wouldn't allow it to rest because on a running engine the valve is constantly being shut harshly against the seat which drives the sealing surface 'flat' as carbon is malleable, it can be quite soft and gooey, or very hard like a diamond, you get all in between which is why cleaning is sometimes necessary (cleaning with a knife by hand for example I've done)

The engines don't "go bad" when they sit unless they sat open the atmosphere.
Bluemoon in costa mesa is excellent
http://bluemoonperformance.com/

obv that doesn't help the dude in Nashville, but there ARE engine builders who have excellent attention to detail, and plenty of small shops like Corner3 in Irvine that wont cut corners either.

what I've found is lots of people will want to ask "how much to rebuild my engine" (which is dumb as fuck, theres a million variables that will dictate the cost) and shitty engine builders will throw out a dollar amount, just to sucker you in to agreeing to the work

a legit engine builder will tell you "we have no idea until we tear down and inspect, and can verify what parts can and should be reused, and what cannot/should not". Good engine builders will charge a teardown fee, which will be credited towards the total cost of the build, if you choose to have them complete the job.

if someone just says "oh it'll be $x.xx to 'rebuild' your engine", be very skeptical.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mannykiller View Post
it'll fit JANK.. and no one likes Jank except Broke ass zilvians.
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