Quote:
Originally Posted by burnsauto
If there is a resistor, best bet is checking around that area of the harness. You don't necessarily need to ground using one in the harness, so if you find some random ground wire that doesn't belong, you may want to chase it down. But if there is a resistor wired in, unless it shit the bed it wouldn't be running rich.
Since it's throwing a code 55, you may want to look other places. How rich are you running, do you have a wideband to give an exact number? Either way, fix the knock sensor issue before you move forward, that way you know you've got that issue resolved, and if you continue to have issues of running too rich, you know it's somewhere else in the system.
..how much of the original emissions system is still in use on the engine?
|
Thanks for the response. I'll check around for some ground that doesn't need to be there. No wideband yet. I should get one just to diagnose the issue though. No emissions still in check as far as I know, EGR gone, and charcoal canister gone as well. Sprayed some carb cleaner around the manifold, and didn't notice any increase in idle.
I was having tons of issues with leaky injectors, replaced all 4 with brand new OEM ones. Coolant temp sensor was cut when I got the car, pigtailed a new wire to connect a brand new one, O2 sensor has also been changed. Haven't done anything with the MAF yet. Voltages look okay through the Okachan water temp unit. Worth cleaning or is that snake oil? I've heard mixed opinions.
Another question though--- been fucking annoying me after today.
So I decided to finally pop in these H4 LED bulbs in my Hella H4 headlights today.
Headlights were okay before, I did notice the right one didn't want to come up as high as the left headlight, and I'd have to tap the headlight button to bring them down sometimes. Brown wire was cut, but looks like it was re-connected by someone.
So installing the right headlight, all is well, no issues. Works fine.
Installed the left bulb, me being an idiot, somehow closed the headlight with the headlight not installed fully (to test the LED bulb). The motor got stuck and wouldn't go up, and would keep going up and down every 2 seconds. The motor definitely got warm.
Pulled the fuse/relay on the passenger side fuse box, didn't do shit. Had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop.
Upon further investigation, saw the rubber was stuck in between and preventing the headlight from closing properly. Moved that, now have a different issue.
Using the wiper-stalk, my left headlight goes up, but then when I close it with the headlight button, the right one goes up, but the bulb doesn't turn on.
When the left headlight is up, the bulb on the right is on, but not when the right headlight is up. The right headlight will also not go down, and I can't seem to manually adjust the headlights with the motors with the battery on, I twist it, and it will eventually spin itself back to wherever it wants to be. I do hear some sound from the relay box (under the intake) when I do this twisting thing and the motor moves itself. No idea if I blew the relay, or which would it would be.
Would love some diagnosis tips, as frankly, I'm quite clueless when it comes to electrical stuff. Sorry for the wall of text.
Cheers!