[2_Liter_Turbo]

Originally Posted by LtSlayer

that was the part i was referencing, the modifying of the tips suggested by tomei. what does that entail, I know you have to machine one side to get it to seat properly but i'm not sure how to modify the tips. I read that with solid lifters and higher lift the tip will dig into the shim/guide. Do i just try to round out the rocker arm tip to sacrifice a little lift but make it run smoother and lighter on the shim/guide? I believe there's Japanese instructions that someone translated but the file didn't work for me. thank you though

I attached the manual (in english), just follow the direction in there and you'll be good. (Edit, says that it's attached, but not showing up. You can PM me your e-mail and I can send it).

Originally Posted by LtSlayer

how did you tune the relatively stock motor? stock ecu or something else, did you not have to convert you MAF to something else in order to tune efficiently? And why do many people get rid of their O2 or swap it to a different type for tuning. Doesn't that help provide important data for the tuner? I plan at getting my sr tuned at a local shop, Animal auto, that specializes in SRs. I just want to give them as much info as I can to get the best tune. Is the stock rail and 740 injectors fine then? i was thinking of going iradium top feed rail and ID1065 injectors just to reduce load on the injectors and get a more efficient mixture of fuel/air.

The engine itself was stock, but I still ran an aftermarket ECU. I started on a ROM tune for the stock engine with large turbo, then I used to run an old AEM EMS 1 when I had the modified engine. With the ROM tune I was using a Z32 MAF with stock o2 sensor (had a wideband gauge). When I went to the EMS, I had MAP and integrated wideband. Both of those setups was the stock fuel rail with 740CC nismo/tomei sidefeed injectors and an aftermarket FPR. Honestly, for the setup you're running, you can save some money and do the same.

Originally Posted by LtSlayer

The forged internal package offers 86.5 and 87mm options. Stock bore is 86, is the 86.5 fine or does it require a bore and hone? I was already going to get the block honed/hot tanked/resurfaced as well as the head. Another small question, I replaced a rocker arm and everything worked out but oil has been leaking very slowly into the spark plug wells. I used an OEM gasket, no RTV, and torqued to spec according to the FSM. Any ideas? The surface looks a little scored but i believe it was like that when i pulled the cover and it didnt have a previous leak. Can i sand this to smooth it or should i use a bit of rtv knowing it isnt recommended but i dont want to have to resurface this as well.

You can buy 86mm aftermarket pistons. If you go 86.5, you'll need machine work. If you do any bore work at the machine shop, I recommend using a TQ plate (shameless plug: I do rent one out), as the SR can distort (out of round) quite a bit under clamping load of even factory head bolts. Also, if you want to run an MLS head gasket, make sure you have the deck surface cut to an extremely high surface finish. Factory surface finish will give you issues with sealing longevity.

For the valve cover gaskets, I'd remove it to see if you any kinks or tears in the gasket (sounds like it got pinched). You can use a dab of RTV on it if it was not pinched. It's not going to hurt anything.

Originally Posted by LtSlayer

did you run the lowest strength super tech or dual spring on your first build? the supertech retainers/dual springs are around 500. tomei retainers alone are 400. I wouldn't mind spending more for future proofing it.

I ran the lowest rate dual spring & retainer kit they offered at the time. The lowest they have now is 90lb, but I could have sworn they had a set in the low/mid 80s at one point, but I could be thinking of something else. I bought those springs in 2009 or so, lol.