[cotbu]

IF it was indeed a fuel issue then unplugging the mafs should not fix the misfiring at idle right?

wrong, the ecu uses a separate code for limp mode/ and or malfunction.

The ecu shows three codes. MAFS Sensor code, Knock sensor code, and speed sensor code (hud speedo doesn't work and it always had the speed code when it ran perfectly before). Resetting the ecu codes does not fix the issue. I did notice that the ecu will not throw any codes at idle no matter how long I let it misfire for, until I actually start to drive and then it will throw the same codes

knock sensor had my vote based on your long read essay, lol.

This would lead anybody to believe that the collision damaged my mafs sensor and the mafs is bad since it only hesitates and misfires with it plugged in.
Here's the kicker: I tried TWO known good mafs, one of which came off of a 240 that drove to me and runs perfectly so I know it was good. With both known good mafs plugged in the issue did not go away and it was exactly the same!!! So that should throw the mafs sensor being bad out...

The sensor codes don't have to be a faulty sensor. It could be wiring or the ecu, both or all three(sensor, wiring, ecu)

Next thing you would think is that there must be a bad intake manifold gasket right? This would cause a similar issue to what I'm having. Well, I went and bought a can of starter fluid, and sprayed it up and down both the runner flange/head gasket and runners/plenum gasket with the engine idling (mafs unplugged so that it would idle steady and not die). If there was a bad gasket the idle should go up when it sucked in the starter fluid. Well there is no bad gasket, spraying the starter fluid never had an affect on the idle no matter where I tried to find a leak.

I never trusted this method alone, clamping the auxiliary air hose or pcv valve line with it, works better.

knock sensor,and wiring, mafs wirng and ecu.
assuming spark plugs, cts and tps have been change or checked.
I'd like to have a listen to the engine...