Quote:
Originally Posted by The Hamsterball
If you're going to adjust the camber, adjust it accordingly to how stiff your shocks and springs are, and accordingly to how wide your new tires/wheels will be.
Maybe around -2.0 deg in front and -1.5 in rear for a start to test out before final adjustment.
Don't run any toe in or toe out. Definitely zero toe in front.
If you want to run any toe in the rear, run a very tiny amount.
(I ran 0 toe front and rear on my s13 for years and liked it).
If you're worried about the extra torque spinning your rear wheels easier, use the throttle less when you're apexing.
Learn to drive with the new engine slowly on your way to work. For a few weeks, lightly run on the mountain without using the brake on your runs. If you find that you have to use your brake still, you're going too fast.
It's a lot easier to just auto-x, hpde, or take your car out to an open track day though.
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yes, with anything with power...take it easy, take it to track...find it's limits...and don't think of going to the limit on a mountain pass....as weather has a huge factor in canyon racing....
fyi...more weight in the front means the rear will feel lighter...car will want to pivot more on the front wheels, allowing for more rotation....so take out the rear sway bar for the most traction.
and 225's....really....i drift my stock ka with 225 40 18x10j.....your not driving hard enough.