Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180
I got mine installed, and honestly the vacuum at idle doesn't appear to have changed at all. I just have the stock S14 DIN gauge though, so the exact numbers are hard to translate (it's range is -/+ 700 mmHg). At idle, the vacuum is down to almost -700, lets call it -675mmHg. Which is unchanged from my stock cams. This is in an S14/15 SR if that makes a difference.
As far as validating mechanical timing, the best option is using the colored links on the chain during install. That way you don't really have to count links, line up the marked links with the timing dots on the cams and that's it. You can see the yellow chain on the crank sprocket by removing the lower oil pan and looking up with a flashlight. That's how I set mine recently since I was replacing the head gasket with the engine still in the car.
I think setting TDC and counting links on the chain is the only "quick" option you have.
I'm having other issues now, so haven't had a good chance a driving impressions. Only thing I can suggest otherwise for your issue is to double check all your vacuum lines, including brake booster, and verify you didn't damage or get anything caught in the manifold gaskets that might cause a vacuum leak.
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I checked my timing by doing the exact thing you mentioned (except I did it from above since I'm keeping my head on the engine and just looking from the top of the cam gears). I still beleive there's something else wrong. The car moves, and moves FAST but that vacuum issue is a real problem over the long run.
I'll just tear the valve cover off and see what I can check out again. UUGGHH!!
Note: I just did the conversions and -675 mmhg is like -26 in. Hg so that a crazy strong vacuum if that's what you're getting. A stock well built SR20DET should see almost exactly -20 in. Hg at idle.