Removing knuckle from lower control arm?

[Silverbullet]

ok, im in the process of changing my hubs currently. I've obtained a hub with the knuckle on it so i decide to just bolt the whole thing on. I removed the two bolts holding the strut, the castle nut holding the tie rod and the castle nut holding the "transverse link ball joint" as the FSM calls it, however it seems like it does not want to lift off the knuckle. I recall there is a special tool for removing it. Is there any way around it? I tried hammering the shit out of it while pulling on the knuckle and hub but i guess im too weak. Any suggestions?

Also how does the transverse link ball joint come off from the lower control arm, because while hammering, i believe i killed the threads...... AAHHH!! I HATEU S13!@#!

[EchoOfSilence]

I'm actually trying to take that off too, but i bought the whole control arms from pdm.

stupid ball joint.

[sncs14]

it's been covered. search old threads

[kingsol]

get a big hammer and just pound on it, hard (hope you have another balljoint just in case), or use a press.

[95zilvia]

Pry it out witha long weiner.

[Ritz S14]

Well. IMO it is best to have the knuckle attached to the strut. I've removed knuckles from ball joints probably at least 50 times on maybe 20 different type of cars.

1. Car on jack stands with wheel off.
2. Remove castle nut about half way.
3. Bang on the lower control arm with a BFG. Which should cause the LCA to drop.
4. Remove 2 bolts attaching the knuckle to the struts.

OR. You can use a "PICKLE FORK", which will seperate the two, but will distroy the ball joint boot.

Good luck. :)

[Silverbullet]

meh, looks like i created a new problem. I damaged the first row of thread on the transverse link ball joint that connects the LCA to the knuckle. Looks like im gonna be replacing this.

How does this come out of the LCA? Pull it out from underneith?

Would it be easier to just slap on a different LCA? It looks pretty straight foward: disconnect sway bar, disconnect tension rod and disconnect the bolt at the end conecting to Xmember.

[!Zar!]

Depending on how easy you can get one. I would go with replacing the lca. But if you do look for one, make sure the rubber joint is still in decent shape and not leaking.

[Ritz S14]

Well you gotta replace the ball joint now. Remove the clip on the bottom of the LCA and bang the ball joint over something big(floor/big rock/vice). Or you can buy a new lca that comes with a new ball joint.

Slapping a new LCA is pretty straightforward. Whatever is connected to it, remove it.

[Silverbullet]

ermm the FSM isn't too detailed on this.

I dont see any type of clip on the bottom on the LCA holding the transverse link ball joint.

[Ritz S14]

Clip = Snap ring.

edit:

If you look closely at the bottom of the ball joint, you will see a black "ring" that locks the ball joint in place. You'll need snap ring pliers(push type) to remove it. I advise wearing safety glasses cause the spring could shoot out if not done carefully.

[Silverbullet]

sorry, the whole time i been looking at the bottom of the LCA. I see the snap ring now. It is under the bushing but above the LCA correct? It's too dark and cold to do it now, but can't i just use a flat head screw driver and a little bit of elbow grease?


looks like the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th ones in the picture below correct?
http://www.truarc.com/images/homepagepro.jpg

[Ritz S14]

You could, but they do make tools for it. :)

[andrewmp6]

3 and 4 i use wire cutters carefully rest i pray out

[projectRDM]

meh, looks like i created a new problem. I damaged the first row of thread on the transverse link ball joint that connects the LCA to the knuckle. Looks like im gonna be replacing this.


That's why you don't hit the ball joint, you use a press type socket, a fork, or put the force on the arm itself.

[thejester03]

I just replaced the ball joint, they are about $40 at Autozone, I smacked a curb in the snow and had to replace the whole right front Susp. The hardest part was getting the ball joints in and out, other than that it is pretty straight forward, I did it all with no FSM at all.

[Silverbullet]

word. I can't believe i didn't see the clip, I need to pay attention more often. LOL

[Silverbullet]

Guess what i found... PDM sells a whole LCA WITH the ball joint for like 50 bucks.

The ball joint i bought from Advance Auto Parts for 40 bucks can lick my nuts. I couldn't get it to fit without sanding down the hole in the LCA. A good amount. I've nearly flattened the bottom part of the ball joint by hammering so hard before i decided to sand the LCA.

Just an update for ppl changing ball joints and LCAs in the future.

[Ritz S14]

Just make sure the LCA you buy is an S13 LCA with S14 ball joint. Or complete S14 LCA with ball joint.