5spd swap tips anyone?

[rim_bender]

Hi, i jsut picked up an auto 96 240 SE for an awsome deal. I got all the parts to do the 5spd swap, but have a couple questions.

1. What is the best way/technique to drill or cut the holes for the clutch pedal?

2. On s14's is there some kind of crank sensor inside the bellhousing? is it the same for auto and manual cars?

3. I have the whole lower harness from a manual and the manual ecu. So is the ECU a direct plug in, or is there some wireing to do with the pin locations?

4. Any other helpful hints i should know? thanks alot

[Indolent]

Hi, i jsut picked up an auto 96 240 SE for an awsome deal. I got all the parts to do the 5spd swap, but have a couple questions.

1. What is the best way/technique to drill or cut the holes for the clutch pedal?

2. On s14's is there some kind of crank sensor inside the bellhousing? is it the same for auto and manual cars?

3. I have the whole lower harness from a manual and the manual ecu. So is the ECU a direct plug in, or is there some wireing to do with the pin locations?

4. Any other helpful hints i should know? thanks alot

www.ka24development.com s14 manual swap

-i just drilled along the outside of the clutch pedal leaving small gaps in between so i could punch it out, then i used those blue grinder things to smoothen it out, same with the clutch pedal bolts.

-not too sure

-should be, correct me if i'm wrong but it should be a direct plug in unless maybe you have another year model like a 95 possibly (obdI) when you have obdII

-the easiest manual swap for me was when i swapped out my motor myself lol, and swapped in another with a manual tranny, being under the car trying to put the tranny on the motor is just ridiculous, well it was for me at least, you'll need a lot more help doing it that way to make things easier
-dont use the clutch dampener, hook up your hardline directly to the slave cylinder hose
-cut your brake pedal and just put a manual rubber stock pedal thing over it (what i did so it looks normal)

[rim_bender]

www.ka24development.com s14 manual swap

-i just drilled along the outside of the clutch pedal leaving small gaps in between so i could punch it out, then i used those blue grinder things to smoothen it out, same with the clutch pedal bolts.

-not too sure

-should be, correct me if i'm wrong but it should be a direct plug in unless maybe you have another year model like a 95 possibly (obdI) when you have obdII

-the easiest manual swap for me was when i swapped out my motor myself lol, and swapped in another with a manual tranny, being under the car trying to put the tranny on the motor is just ridiculous, well it was for me at least, you'll need a lot more help doing it that way to make things easier
-dont use the clutch dampener, hook up your hardline directly to the slave cylinder hose
-cut your brake pedal and just put a manual rubber stock pedal thing over it (what i did so it looks normal)


did you drill the holes for the clutch pedal from inside the car under the dash or outside the car under the hood? Are the mounting ponts already there for the clutch pedal to be bolted up, and all you have to do is drill a hole for the master clutch vylinder?

[Indolent]

did you drill the holes for the clutch pedal from inside the car under the dash or outside the car under the hood? Are the mounting ponts already there for the clutch pedal to be bolted up, and all you have to do is drill a hole for the master clutch vylinder?

i drilled most of them from the inside cause you can see the mounting points, it's already layed out, so i can see what i'm drilling, it might be a bitch but i think thats the easiest since you jus see the master cylinder circle, then the 2 points where you bolt it through, you still have to drill those bolt hole things or whatever, basically you gotta drill out 2 small holes for the bolts and 1 big one fo the master cylinder

[rim_bender]

OK, gotcha thanks alot

[shotgunhunter4]

Hey about the crank sencer. On the manual trans its on top of the bellhousing but on the auto either it does not have one or i just dont know where it is. And by the way dont bust the sencer cause it cost me 67 dollars for a new one. Good luck.

[NemeGuero]

I believe the sensor is only OBD2
it's on top of the transmission right behind the block.. if you're using an s14 tranny it has the CPS in the same spot. Check your FSM, it'll tell you.

helpful hints:
drop the driveshaft and tranny mount to remove the top bellhousing bolts
get the right tool to get out the pilot bearing and make sure you have a torque wrench
and get the car up as high as you can.. you'll appreciate it as you go.

[240shorty]

...get the right tool to get out the pilot bearing...

I'm gonna do mine Monday when my parts arrive. I've already removed the Auto, but not the flexplate and pilot bushing. Is the special tool a car specific tool, or does Autozone, etc... have one that is appropriate? Or is there an effective alternate solution?

And for my master cylinder, I drilled the center hole with the largest drill bit available to me. Probably a 1/2". Then I put a rasp in and finished the job rounding it out to full size. You might be able to fit a hole saw in there if you had a JDM tyte right angle drill. I don't know though, as I don't have one.

[rim_bender]

All really helpful replies

keep them comming

[drift freaq]

there is a faq right here on zilvia called auto to 5 speed swap.

[smily_vigor]

I'm gonna do mine Monday when my parts arrive. I've already removed the Auto, but not the flexplate and pilot bushing. Is the special tool a car specific tool, or does Autozone, etc... have one that is appropriate? Or is there an effective alternate solution?

And for my master cylinder, I drilled the center hole with the largest drill bit available to me. Probably a 1/2". Then I put a rasp in and finished the job rounding it out to full size. You might be able to fit a hole saw in there if you had a JDM tyte right angle drill. I don't know though, as I don't have one.

No the pilot bearing tool isn't car specific, it's adjustable so it pretty much fits just about any size bearing. It's always better to use the proper tool but if you don't have it and are unable to get it you can use a punch or cold chizel and knock the old bearing on the side deforming it then you can pry it out. I've heard of others using a impact hammer so basically it's the same concept.
As for the hole of the clutch master cylinder if you take apart the bottom of the dash you get enough room to fit a hand drill in there with a circle saw. Well that's what I did on mine, i've heard others use zip guns or dremel tools to get the hole right.