SR20 OR KA-T?

[BRSTYLE240SX]

should i buy a SR20 or turbo my KA? which one do you have? which one is best? which one is cheaper? which one is best for the value? how do they compare?

[s15dude]

Do you want lowend or high end power, and how much do you want to make? How much wrenching can you do? Ho much money are you willing to spend?  On average it will cost about the same money to make the same amount of HP. But the KA will have more torque.

[BRSTYLE240SX]

im willing to spend whatever is needed (up to 3 grand that is.. lol)... im not worried about wrenching because my step father has a mechanical shop.. he's a mechanic and will do all the work for me and won't charge me nothing... if by lowend you mean launch... yes.. thats what im looking for.. i want my car to reach 60 as fast as possible! wouldnt mind a little more power after 60 too... but my real worry is from 0-60! tkx! how much would i spend in in parts for each one of those projects? which one is cheaper?

[s15dude]

Prices are around:
SR: $1500-$2000 for a redtop, use the rest for FMIC, boostcontroller, or anything else you want to upgrade.
KA: If you resourceful, you can build a turbo kit for around $2000, or you can buy one for like $3000+
If all you do is put in an SR and don't mod it, and you turbo your KA, the KA will prolly have a little more power, but cost a little more. How many miles are on your car? Do you have a spare car to drive if the SR breaks and you have to wait for parts from Japan?

[BRSTYLE240SX]

my car is a coupe 92 with 113K.. auto ugrrrr... i can't wait for parts from Japan, besides i hear that it would be pretty hard to find an SR20 auto rite? so i should go for the turbo then? any websites you would recommend for me to look at? thank you

[boosteds14]

an on-going discussion that will never end!
ka-t =spare no expense

[LanceS13]

You don't need an "SR20 auto"...the manual transmission comes with it and you swap it out.
In your case, I would suggest the SR...that is, if you're willing to have to buy most parts from Japan for upgrades/repair and you're willing to rewire the car with the SR harness.
With that much mileage, it may be risky to turbo KA, depending on it's condition of course.  Sans a rebuild, it may require more maintenance than it's worth.  If you're shooting for 300+ hp (which IMO, would require a stripdown, inspection, and rebuild of either engine for maximum reliability--especially since you have no idea what that used SR has been through), I say go for the KA+T.

[sykikchimp]

If you go SR, get the front clip.  It will cost more, but in the end it will even out b/c you will need all the extra stuff that comes on the clip, and it will give you a really good reference guide for where everything goes.  Clips run from 2500-3500.

A good reputable sourse for the SR will generally charge 2.5k for just the complete engine and tranny.

[Roly]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 26 2002,2:12)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">If you go SR, get the front clip. It will cost more, but in the end it will even out b/c you will need all the extra stuff that comes on the clip, and it will give you a really good reference guide for where everything goes. Clips run from 2500-3500.

A good reputable sourse for the SR will generally charge 2.5k for just the complete engine and tranny.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Without disrespecting anyone on this board, I'd call you a fool if you swap in a SR w/o replacing the gaskets from the oil pan up , the timing belt, water pump, and spending the extra $150 to get the SR harness extended so it can be routed correctly for a LHD car. &nbsp;Granted the KA-T may come out a little more expensive in the end, but whats the purpose in swapping in a smaller displacement motor? I've driven my friends 2000 T/A turbo... yes I said turbo, it dyno'd 438hp and 485trq and you only have to shift it at 6000rpm.

[tnord]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Roly @ April 27 2002,3:00)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 26 2002,2:12)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">If you go SR, get the front clip. It will cost more, but in the end it will even out b/c you will need all the extra stuff that comes on the clip, and it will give you a really good reference guide for where everything goes. Clips run from 2500-3500.

A good reputable sourse for the SR will generally charge 2.5k for just the complete engine and tranny.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Without disrespecting anyone on this board, I'd call you a fool if you swap in a SR w/o replacing the gaskets from the oil pan up , the timing belt, water pump, and spending the extra $150 to get the SR harness extended so it can be routed correctly for a LHD car. Granted the KA-T may come out a little more expensive in the end, but whats the purpose in swapping in a smaller displacement motor? I've driven my friends 2000 T/A turbo... yes I said turbo, it dyno'd 438hp and 485trq and you only have to shift it at 6000rpm.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
i'll tell you what the purpose is......it's got more power and it's factory built.....not a rigged up home job

btw....no i don't have an SR

[ca18guy]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (s15dude @ April 27 2002,06:04)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Do you have a spare car to drive if the SR breaks and you have to wait for parts from Japan?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I'm not gonna comment on engine choice cause thats a personnel choice. But I'd like to ask something of this comment. What parts would break that would make your car not able to work that the wait from Japan would ruin your daily driver? All the regular replaceble parts seem to have an accesible US counterpart. If something major broke that you could'nt find in the states then whats the difference between waiting for the dealership to get a KA part in, compared to having a parts distributor find a part for you from Japan. &nbsp;Anyone get what I'm saying?

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Roly @ April 26 2002,5:00)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">yes I said turbo, it dyno'd 438hp and 485trq and you only have to shift it at 6000rpm.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Some people LIKE to shift at 8k rpm. &nbsp;I personally think its a lot of fun to listen to a small displacment 4-banger Wide-Ass open at high RPM. &nbsp;Especially when you get to listen to that blow-off valve b/w shifts. &nbsp;Gives me goose-bumps.

And 438 hp ain't all that. &nbsp;His T/A probably weighs about 800 lbs more than a KA or SR, or CA for that matter completely hooked up with 450hp. &nbsp;There is a guy on FA running 22 psi on a built CA pushing 400-450 ponies at around 9k rpm. &nbsp;That thing sounds like it would be a BLAST to drive.

Of course I will always have love for kick ass domestics, but honestly 438hp ain't that much for a T/A... of course it cost him a lot less in mods than it would for any of those 4 bangers to get there. &nbsp;Doesn't take a marvel of mechanical tuning, or a great engine either when you have 8 cyclenders with 5.8 liters.. (think that's correct displacement:?)

[DrDubbleB]

I wish I had a picture of a dead horse being beaten...anyone know where i can find one? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>

[Roly]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 26 2002,4:40)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Roly @ April 26 2002,5<!--emo&<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">yes I said turbo, it dyno'd 438hp and 485trq and you only have to shift it at 6000rpm.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Some people LIKE to shift at 8k rpm. I personally think its a lot of fun to listen to a small displacment 4-banger Wide-Ass open at high RPM. Especially when you get to listen to that blow-off valve b/w shifts. Gives me goose-bumps.

And 438 hp ain't all that. His T/A probably weighs about 800 lbs more than a KA or SR, or CA for that matter completely hooked up with 450hp. There is a guy on FA running 22 psi on a built CA pushing 400-450 ponies at around 9k rpm. That thing sounds like it would be a BLAST to drive.

Of course I will always have love for kick ass domestics, but honestly 438hp ain't that much for a T/A... of course it cost him a lot less in mods than it would for any of those 4 bangers to get there. Doesn't take a marvel of mechanical tuning, or a great engine either when you have 8 cyclenders with 5.8 liters.. (think that's correct displacement:?)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
It's a 5.7l, but i failed to mention that it's putting that power down to the wheels at only 3.5psi. Until new injectors are replaced then it'll be able to boost 6psi which should put it in the 500+hp range.

BTW.. a good book to have is "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell, where it explains designing, testing, and installing turbo systems.... it also goes into details about inertial load on engines is about 144% greater when revving to 7200rpm from 6000rpm, which promotes wear and tear on the engine. So now imagine that rev to 8000rpm... Boost less, increase the bore of the engine = more boost, with smaller bore.

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Roly @ April 26 2002,6:02)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 26 2002,4:40)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Roly @ April 26 2002,5<!--emo&<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">yes I said turbo, it dyno'd 438hp and 485trq and you only have to shift it at 6000rpm.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Some people LIKE to shift at 8k rpm. I personally think its a lot of fun to listen to a small displacment 4-banger Wide-Ass open at high RPM. Especially when you get to listen to that blow-off valve b/w shifts. Gives me goose-bumps.

And 438 hp ain't all that. His T/A probably weighs about 800 lbs more than a KA or SR, or CA for that matter completely hooked up with 450hp. There is a guy on FA running 22 psi on a built CA pushing 400-450 ponies at around 9k rpm. That thing sounds like it would be a BLAST to drive.

Of course I will always have love for kick ass domestics, but honestly 438hp ain't that much for a T/A... of course it cost him a lot less in mods than it would for any of those 4 bangers to get there. Doesn't take a marvel of mechanical tuning, or a great engine either when you have 8 cyclenders with 5.8 liters.. (think that's correct displacement:?)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
It's a 5.7l, but i failed to mention that it's putting that power down to the wheels at only 3.5psi. Until new injectors are replaced then it'll be able to boost 6psi which should put it in the 500+hp range.

BTW.. a good book to have is "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell, where it explains designing, testing, and installing turbo systems.... it also goes into details about inertial load on engines is about 144% greater when revving to 7200rpm from 6000rpm, which promotes wear and tear on the engine. So now imagine that rev to 8000rpm... Boost less, increase the bore of the engine = more boost, with smaller bore.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
damn.. &nbsp;I figured he couldn't be pushing too much boost. &nbsp;Sounds like he's gonna have true Beast on his hands..

And no matter what corky says.. &nbsp;Doesn't make it any less Fun <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

[BadAssLil240sx]

go with sr20 because first of all, it will most likely have less miles than ur KA. if u rebuild the KA and turbocharge it...thats already twice the money than an sr swap would cost. keep in mind also that a KA is a truck engine, im not discrediting the engine at all, but it wasnt really made to be fast, the SR20 was. also, an s14 or s15 SR20 revs a hell of a lot higher than a KA does. good luck with whatever you do.

[Arcane]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (s15dude @ April 26 2002,11:04)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Prices are around:
SR: $1500-$2000 for a redtop, use the rest for FMIC, boostcontroller, or anything else you want to upgrade.
KA: If you resourceful, you can build a turbo kit for around $2000, or you can buy one for like $3000+
If all you do is put in an SR and don't mod it, and you turbo your KA, the KA will prolly have a little more power, but cost a little more. How many miles are on your car? Do you have a spare car to drive if the SR breaks and you have to wait for parts from Japan?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
on the SR...that price is for the engine...if you install it yourself, then expect to pay that much...if you are like me and don't want to risk it...add labor...which i think is another 1 or 2...but someone will correct the labor cost if i'm wrong...

it will roughly turn out to be the same amount...although the arguments for their potential can't seemed to be resolved...or you can just to the "eenie meenie minie mo" method...

[SR20Fastback]

Go with the SR...and btw roly They dont have Timing Belts. They're chains

[misnomer]

Uh oh, he called it a truck motor, time to bust out the tar and feathers <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>

Anyhow, here is your balance: Price wise you are close either engine you get. KA has more torque (beefier power from the start), SR has more revs (stay in gear a bit longer). It is 100% personal preference, either engine can be badass.

I've been running this debate myself, and I won't know for sure what I'm going to do untill I have the cash for it. Right now I lean towards the KA, 'cause torque is my friend, makes the car feel more imposing. I'm also not a fan of revving to the moon <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'> You may need to rebuild on an engine with that many miles (relatively cheap if you have somebody who won't charge for labor), or even replace it with a newer KA. Didn't somebody just sell one with 36k miles for $350?! Craziness.

You aren't going to get a strait answer on these motors from anybody who knows both of them well enough. They both have great potential, just different styles.

[Roly]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (SR20Fastback @ April 26 2002,7:53)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Go with the SR...and btw roly They dont have Timing Belts. They're chains</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Thanks for the correction. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

[MyFirst240SX]

well SR is cheaper if u want boost fast
2.2-2.5k for front clip
450 for new clutch.
then u have boost

the SR comes with a "lower milage" raditor and all kinds of little stuff that is proubly getting worn out with you car.

for KA-T
Forged Rebuild +1000
turbo Kit &nbsp;+2500
New tranny <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>??

I want Boost Now so i want Sr now.
but i would say for 5000 bucks and if u had a low milage DOHC eninge the KA-T would be better route

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (MyFirst240SX @ April 27 2002,02:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">well SR is cheaper if u want boost fast
2.2-2.5k for front clip
450 for new clutch.
then u have boost

the SR comes with a "lower milage" raditor and all kinds of little stuff that is proubly getting worn out with you car.

for KA-T
Forged Rebuild +1000
turbo Kit +2500
New tranny <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>??

I want Boost Now so i want Sr now.
but i would say for 5000 bucks and if u had a low milage DOHC eninge the KA-T would be better route</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
*ignites torch*
This has gotta be the most rediculous thing I have ever read. &nbsp;You're lucky I dont know you, cuz I would have printed out this page, clipped your post out, and shoved it up your ass. &nbsp;Because you're talking without knowing the facts. &nbsp;Or any facts. &nbsp;Like the first stupid thing to come off your fingers. &nbsp;" 'lower milage' radiator" &nbsp;
Yeah. &nbsp;And??
If you want "boost fast" &nbsp;Well. &nbsp;I promise you that I will have my turbo in my hands and on my car before your ship floats over from Japan with your precious engine. &nbsp;I have heard 3-6 week waiting times for a clip. &nbsp;Most good companies will have a few to order at a time, and then their contact has to source the engines, and bust out the cutter. &nbsp;
Then... you priced a redtop. &nbsp;They have a "90,000 km or less" claim on them. &nbsp;And do you know what that engine has done for most of those "90,00 km or less"? &nbsp;Probably raced, and drifted, and ragged out. &nbsp;Shops that import engines call people stupid when they dont tear the engine down to check all the internals.
*To the next thing you dont have a clue about*
KA-T
Nobody needs a forged rebuild. &nbsp;T.Y. has been running 15 psi, and 300+hp (IIRC 317hp) to the wheels on STOCK INTERNALS. &nbsp;Hes been running forever like that. &nbsp;And he's not the only one. &nbsp;Someone really recently turned his boost to 13 psi and hit 320-ish hp to the ground with JUST fuel management. &nbsp;(Granted, these are s14's, with the nice pistons.)
New tranny? &nbsp;What the hell for? &nbsp;Ours don't break. &nbsp;You know why? &nbsp;CUZ ITS THE SAME damn THING AS THE SR TRANNY!!
Ahh. &nbsp;Why do I even bother.
*puts out torch*
The sr vs. ka is an ongoing argument, and nothing anyone says will sway you once you make up your mind.
But if you father is a mechanic, and hasn't done a SR swap, I'd have him do the s14 DOHC KA swap. &nbsp;Then a turbo. &nbsp;And yes, I am selling a s14 KA in about a month. &nbsp;And there are quite a few other KA's goin cheap. &nbsp;
-Jeff

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ April 27 2002,02:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> (Granted, these are s14's, with the nice pistons.)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
That is a myth. &nbsp;The s14's Pistons are identical to the S13's. &nbsp;I think the only difference is the S14 has piston oil squirters. &nbsp;Which is Definately a plus.

And If I hear one more person say the KA24DE is a truck motor, I'm gonna go fuckin NUTZZ!!! IT IS NOT A TRUCK MOTOR!!!!

[zephyr]

i think we already decided the ka was in a car before it was in a truck

anyways....SCREW TURBO
KA has more power to start with
take that turbo off the sr and its got nothing
I say build up your ka and turbo it
I'm gonna try to get over 200 out of my ka before i turbo it
ive been thinking about engine swaps and the risk involved and the fact that nissan won't touch an engine if you need some help and also the whole emissions thing...ugh
build up that ka and turbo it later
at 200-215 hp you should be doing 0-60 in about 6 seconds...thats not too bad considering if you get an s13 sr its only got 205 hp...an s14 has 220 or something right?
psh...its cheaper to build it up too
its just that you're stuck after like 215 hp
hehe...good thing is it would be ready to turbo if you could fix the engine up that much

[tnord]

except building up a KA before turboing is absolutely moronic. you're intake, headers, exhaust, possibly cams, and any ECU replacement would become worthless once you turbo. that's a waste of well over 1500 bucks, which isn't far from the cost of building your own turbo kit. (i do know of somebody trying to build one cheaper than this.)

[s15dude]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 30 2002,3:43)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ April 27 2002,02:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> (Granted, these are s14's, with the nice pistons.)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
That is a myth. The s14's Pistons are identical to the S13's. I think the only difference is the S14 has piston oil squirters. Which is Definately a plus.

And If I hear one more person say the KA24DE is a truck motor, I'm gonna go fuckin NUTZZ!!! IT IS NOT A TRUCK MOTOR!!!!</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I thought all KAs had the oil squirters. Can someone confirm this?

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 30 2002,6:43)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ April 27 2002,02:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> (Granted, these are s14's, with the nice pistons.)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
That is a myth. The s14's Pistons are identical to the S13's. I think the only difference is the S14 has piston oil squirters. Which is Definately a plus.

And If I hear one more person say the KA24DE is a truck motor, I'm gonna go fuckin NUTZZ!!! IT IS NOT A TRUCK MOTOR!!!!</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Here is a quote from a moderator on Freshalloy.com.
Thanks to Asad137
Nope, it's not true. The DOHC pistons are dished, I believe SOHC pistons are flat-top (or closer to it). If you put SOHC pistons in a DOHC, you'll have a sky-high compression ratio -- you have to machine the pistons to bring them down to 11:1!
The pistons in an S13 DOHC should be able to withstand about the same as the SOHC pistons as long as the ring lands are comparable in size and strength -- I believe they both use a similar low-silicon cast piston.

The S14 DOHC pistons, on the other hand, are hypereutectic (high-silicon) cast pistons, and are a bit stronger, but I believe somewhat more brittle. T.Y. is running 11 psi on his S14 KA-T.
-Jeff

[drift freaq]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I think the only difference is the S14 has piston oil squirters. </td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

all KAde's(DOHC's) have piston oil squirters the only KA's that don't are the KA24e(SOHC). As far as the piston in the S14 KA being superior its not enough to make a big difference under boost. If you are really concerned about your pistons under boost which you should be <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> then you just need to get a set of forged pistons.
that is the only thing you need to change on the KA to make it an excellent Turbo engine. That and 91 cams and your motor is going to pump the ponies out under boost and pound for pound will smack a SR due to displacement.
I am not anti SR . These are cold hard facts 7 pounds of boost on a KA is going to give you at least 225hp if not more close to 240. 7 pounds on an SR will give you 205-220hp.
now all you SR fanantics/ Nazi's can fire up your flame throwers.
Its not going to change this fact. Sorry guys I got a big ass fire hose and I am wearing a flame retardant suit <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'> &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'> &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'> &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'>
Love SR's for the track love KA's for the street <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ May 01 2002,12:23)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 30 2002,6:43)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Jeff240sx @ April 27 2002,02:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> (Granted, these are s14's, with the nice pistons.)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
That is a myth. The s14's Pistons are identical to the S13's. I think the only difference is the S14 has piston oil squirters. Which is Definately a plus.

And If I hear one more person say the KA24DE is a truck motor, I'm gonna go fuckin NUTZZ!!! IT IS NOT A TRUCK MOTOR!!!!</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Here is a quote from a moderator on Freshalloy.com.
Thanks to Asad137
Nope, it's not true. The DOHC pistons are dished, I believe SOHC pistons are flat-top (or closer to it). If you put SOHC pistons in a DOHC, you'll have a sky-high compression ratio -- you have to machine the pistons to bring them down to 11:1!
The pistons in an S13 DOHC should be able to withstand about the same as the SOHC pistons as long as the ring lands are comparable in size and strength -- I believe they both use a similar low-silicon cast piston.

The S14 DOHC pistons, on the other hand, are hypereutectic (high-silicon) cast pistons, and are a bit stronger, but I believe somewhat more brittle. T.Y. is running 11 psi on his S14 KA-T.
-Jeff</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Ok.. &nbsp;you guys are right.. My bad. &nbsp;Little confusion on my part..


The S14 pistons are different, but Nissan no longer sells the s13 pistons. &nbsp;If you want to buy OEM pistons from nissan for the S13 they will give you the same part number as the S14. &nbsp;This is why I was confused. &nbsp;I saw that they had the same part number and assumed that they wouldn't have stopped producing pistons for that model, but I guess since they are somewhat superior it makes sense.

And you are right.. &nbsp;ALL DE's do have oil squirters. &nbsp;I was thinkin E. &nbsp;Thanks for the correction.

(At least now after research, &nbsp;I know 100% sure of those things.)

[AceInHole]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (tnord @ April 30 2002,02:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">except building up a KA before turboing is absolutely moronic. you're intake, headers, exhaust, possibly cams, and any ECU replacement would become worthless once you turbo. that's a waste of well over 1500 bucks, which isn't far from the cost of building your own turbo kit. (i do know of somebody trying to build one cheaper than this.)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
$1500 will easily get you as much power in a KA as you've got in an SR, if you're a resourceful and patient person. &nbsp;Money spent after that is in the search of more boost.

If you get the ECU with the map for 50lb injectors and a Cobra MAF, you wouldn't be wasting your money, as that setup would run both NA and Turbo. &nbsp;Also, you'd just need to reprogram the ECU to handle larger injectors/ MAF later on.
(Although... if I can pull off the system I described in the Chat forum, that's a good $700 you don't need to spend).
JWT cams are supposedly also turbo friendly, and why wouldn't you be able to use your exhaust on the turbo car?? &nbsp;then all you have to do is sell the headers and intake for a bit of money to make up for their use and you're all set......

anyways... I'm turbo'ing a KA. &nbsp;I might someday swap to an SR, although I doubt it, since when my KA blows, I can just buy another one complete for under $500 and rebuild my blown engine in the mean time, so that when the other engine goes KA-put, i'll have a near bulletproof engine to do whatever I want with, and another engine being built with a Z22 crank, forged rods/pistons, stiffer valve springs, a nice set of cams, and a 9000 rpm redline..... (drool in dreams)