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mrmephistopheles
09-19-2005, 01:20 AM
By popular demand, here's an FAQ for Nissan's RB-series motor.

NemeGuero
09-19-2005, 04:29 PM
You can use a z32 yoke for the driveshaft, it mates the RB tranny

custom downpipe has to be made to clear the steering column

You NEED custom mounts available from Mckinney or Phase2. Ebay has them once in a while as well.

E-fans are a must since you loose the extra space for your clutch fan

I'll think of more later..

Indolent
09-19-2005, 06:25 PM
i think you gotta bash up part of the firewall to make starter fit i believe, not sure if that applies to s14 also

lucky7
09-19-2005, 06:35 PM
Z32 N/A clutch will fit in an RB25 tranny. it is a direct fit. the flywheel however, will not fit.

drift freaq
09-19-2005, 06:46 PM
You can use a z32 yoke for the driveshaft, it mates the RB tranny

custom downpipe has to be made to clear the steering column

You NEED custom mounts available from Mckinney or Phase2. Ebay has them once in a while as well.

E-fans are a must since you loose the extra space for your clutch fan

I'll think of more later..

correct on the Yoke. The downpipe is not the issue in clearing the steering column its actually the elbow . Which most installers notch.
We addressed this issue by making a custom 3 inch elbow/downpipe , to this date no one else I have seen has done this, we also make custom urethane engine mounts, transmission brackets and swaybar brackets and driveshaft. It is a complete kit that is coming out shortly. We feel it will blow the competitions right out of the water.
shameless promotion here for Syko Performance.

drift freaq
09-19-2005, 06:48 PM
i think you gotta bash up part of the firewall to make starter fit i believe, not sure if that applies to s14 also

this is so not true. Trust me I own a RB powered S13. See my comments above about kits.

NemeGuero
09-19-2005, 07:05 PM
you need to upgrade fuel pump
PS lines and AC lines have to be re-fabricated

and google turned this up
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0309scc_hybrid/

drift freaq
09-19-2005, 07:10 PM
[QUOTE=NemeGuero]you need to upgrade fuel pump
PS lines and AC lines have to be re-fabricated

and google turned this up
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0309scc_hybrid/[/QUOTE
We are in the process of designing custom AC lines. We also have actually designed a custom Power steering line setup as well. Not sure when that stuff will be ready for marketplace though.

NemeGuero
09-19-2005, 07:48 PM
well shoot.. I guess you're the guy to get in touch with for an RB swap.. hahah
we should just erase all these posts and put your contact info in a single thread.

;)

Indolent
09-19-2005, 10:39 PM
this is so not true. Trust me I own a RB powered S13. See my comments above about kits.

Oo, friend has s13 with rb25 with mckinney motor mounts, we had to bang it in to fit for some reason, don't know why but thats what we did unless we did it wrong or something

lucky7
09-20-2005, 01:07 AM
Oo, friend has s13 with rb25 with mckinney motor mounts, we had to bang it in to fit for some reason, don't know why but thats what we did unless we did it wrong or something


from what i understand, i think it depends on which mount kit you use. im not 100% though.

NemeGuero
09-20-2005, 01:11 AM
mckinney mounts DON'T require banging out the firewall..so no

TheSnail
09-20-2005, 01:26 AM
"When you guys are done kissing I got some ass kicking for you" PM rb street Jesus, I already see false info.

Indolent
09-20-2005, 02:28 AM
ok i'm done kissing and waiting

drift freaq
09-20-2005, 11:37 AM
"When you guys are done kissing I got some ass kicking for you" PM rb street Jesus, I already see false info.

well, my info is not false for a RB25 install. You did a 26 there are some differences in the installs. Since you feel your info is so ass kicking and superior share it. Instead of playing P.M. me in private, and playing it like your so superior.Almost sounds like a exercise in your ego. I am not saying it is but it comes off that way. If not I apologize in advance.


oh ya and for everyone. These installs have a number of ways to be done, depending on if you utilize a R33 GTST crossmember with the stock RB engine brackets, (which is what we do) or not.
We choose this particulare method because it allowed us with our Custom Urethane mounts to move the engine as far back and as low as possible in the S13 chassis.
Yes we did custom power steering lines,it works kick ass too!! I am in the process of finishing up my air, using a RB25 R33 air con compressor and fittings. All we had to do is have the lines extended to my stock lines coming from the firewall.
The only reason I say what I say is because compared to whats on the market our setup is cleaner and looks much more factory.
Ours will be a product not someones back yard job.

TheSnail
09-20-2005, 09:55 PM
well, my info is not false for a RB25 install. You did a 26 there are some differences in the installs. Since you feel your info is so ass kicking and superior share it. Instead of playing P.M. me in private, and playing it like your so superior.Almost sounds like a exercise in your ego. I am not saying it is but it comes off that way. If not I apologize in advance.



Whoa there buddy. Anyways, Its not like the only rb swap I did was a 26. Ive done 7 rb20's and 2 rb25's. As for the 25's one we used the crossmember and modified the tranny mount. the second one we made our own mounts. While you two girls were fighting, I was stating
You NEED custom mounts available from Mckinney or Phase2. Ebay has them once in a while as well.
was wrong. As far as the pm. Its not me. Though I could answer most of your rb questions, the Streetjesus is a newbee on this forum, that knows the answer to every question known to man. He roams around but never posts,(30ish posts). His name is Wazimba. Me and him started Snailworks a while ago, then I went to school and he went to work for TigerRacing. He is a walking dictionary.

NemeGuero
09-20-2005, 10:08 PM
nobody was fighting,
and you still need custom mounts, whether you modify your original mounts or buy new ones, you still can NOT utilize the stock mounts in their stock condition

and re-drilling stock mounts doesn't seem like the 'best' of ideas

you can do it the right way, or put a bandaid on it and hope it stays

NemeGuero
09-20-2005, 10:17 PM
it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The Skyline's transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won't line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options.

If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it's supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won't really matter on a show car.

Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren't enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won't do.
Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there's a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga.,Syko Performance in Torrance Calif, all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip.

drift freaq
09-20-2005, 10:33 PM
Whoa there buddy. Anyways, Its not like the only rb swap I did was a 26. Ive done 7 rb20's and 2 rb25's. As for the 25's one we used the crossmember and modified the tranny mount. the second one we made our own mounts. While you two girls were fighting, I was stating was wrong. As far as the pm. Its not me. Though I could answer most of your rb questions, the Streetjesus is a newbee on this forum, that knows the answer to every question known to man. He roams around but never posts,(30ish posts). His name is Wazimba. Me and him started Snailworks a while ago, then I went to school and he went to work for TigerRacing. He is a walking dictionary.

so if you have done 7 RB20's you know its a completely different install. It seems like you and street jesus have a ego problem. You have to resort to name calling to prove your point? Thats signs of a ego , again if you don't I apologize in advance but once again someone under your sig or you have gone off in such a way that looks like ego.
If street Jesus is some kind of god who knows so much why does not post under his own screen name ? sounds like ego once again.
Again like I stated before , I am speaking from having a working product that I have even shown here on the forums and posted about. I do not need any RB questions answered. My associate was installing RB's in S14's over 6 years ago, thats before Mckinney or anyone else. In fact his ITB SR20de is in this months Super Street. Our stuff is clean and right so much that I can say it and market it. Thats a pretty strong statement.

drift freaq
09-20-2005, 10:38 PM
it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The Skyline's transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won't line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options.

If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it's supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won't really matter on a show car.

Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren't enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won't do.
Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there's a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga., and by the time you read this, probably Super Tuner Motorsports in Ridgecrest, Calif., all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip.

actually again SyKO engine mounts address this issue . My engine sits low enough to use the stock manifold and not touch your hood. though I did put the Greddy intake on because I wanted too.
Syko transmission brackets allow you to use the factory S13/S14 crossmember. SyKO swaybar brackets allow the swaybar not to hit the oil pan either. All of this stuff is high performance stuff designed to handle high HP.
YOu can add SyKO company to that list above .Syko Performance in Torrance Calif.


P.S. I no longer work with Syko though they are a great company. I am on to my own things.

TheSnail
09-20-2005, 11:22 PM
Now you're starting to talk crap. From pissing me off, I conclude your talking shit, is your marketing tool. Flipping the "ego" thing around on you.

NemeGuero
09-20-2005, 11:56 PM
sorry drift freaq, that was a direct quote from the SCC article I looked up.. I'll edit it for ya :)

speeddreamz
09-21-2005, 01:21 PM
Just easy kinda things heres some parts info RE RB25det

Clutch kit = Z32 N/A
Throwout bearing = will work for z31 turbo, some others work too.
Coil Packs = Z32
Nismo Thermostat = Same as z32/ xterra, all 6 cyl
Nismo FPR (Highly recommended on all cars with walbros, fuel pressure is too high causes super richness) = 22670-RR580US (same as SR20det model)

Maf = Same as J30 maf on series 1!?, any z32 filter will adapt to the maf, but the plug is the main concern.

other info that is good

--------------------------
Make sure you change your waterpump, and timing belt before you swap, who knows how many miles your engine has, its better now then when it shits out on you and you have to do it from inside.

S14 can use tach and speedo, as well as coolant temp gauge (must swap in KA coolant temp sensor into RB temp sensor location.) It reads a little bit faster on warm up, but is accurate thereafter. To use the tach correctly, recalibrate it using the adjustment screw on the back of the gauge cluster, you need something else to read your RPMs to calibrate it correctly. Remember rb is 6 cyl vs 4 cyl, so tach will read 1.5 too much. I.e. 2000 rpms reads as 3000 rpms on your tach.

Lower harness:
Use your KA lower harness. You will have to cut off the starter plug and rewire it inplace of the Ka start plug (spade plug). You willneed to cut off the KA oil pressure sender, replace with the rb one. Starter loops that you secure on with 10/12 mm bolts, you may have to ream the inside or replace the loop that is secured with the bolts. Everything else pretty much works. Also extend the KA tranny harnesses , some plug up, those that don't make sure you splice them with the correct plug from the KA harness.

speeddreamz
09-21-2005, 01:22 PM
mckinney mounts DON'T require banging out the firewall..so no

I had to bang mine for a half hour =T

S14DB
09-21-2005, 03:07 PM
The FPR model numbers are different from the SR.
My RB26 FPR:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/Sale/RB26FPR1.jpg

speeddreamz
09-21-2005, 03:24 PM
let me recheck my box i might've made an error.

TheSnail
09-21-2005, 11:26 PM
rb25 valves are the same as vg30dett valves.

ka24deturbo
09-30-2005, 06:55 PM
Do you guys know where I can get help with wiring? Thanks!

drift freaq: I'm gonna need my A/C & P/S so help a brotha out! Let me know what you can do for me as far as parts! Thanks!

evoandy
10-01-2005, 11:51 PM
you guys are talking about using Walbro pumps, but isn't the Z32TT fuel pump good enough to be considered an upgrade for SupraTT guys? If you use the Z32TT fuel pump you can utilize the stock FRP without a problem, and you don't have to futz with the nismo unit. Just offering an idea (that i'm well aware could be flawed since this just came to me), that could offset some of the extra (possibly unneccesary) cost associated with the walbro pump/nismo FPR setup.

morpheus8486
10-09-2005, 07:54 PM
I thought some basic rb info was needed in this thread so I hit up google and here it is.
click here for the site (http://www.answers.com/topic/nissan-rb-engine)

The RB Engine
"The RB engine is a 2.0 L to 3.0 L straight-6 piston engine from Nissan. It is an aluminum and cast iron DOHC 4-valve per cylinder design. All RB engines have belt driven cams. All turbo models have an intercooled turbo and recirculating factory blow off valve (with the exception of automatic Laurels and Cefiros) to relive turbo boost when the throttle is closed. All are twin cam except the single cam 2 L RB20E and 3 L RB30E engine.

From 1998 the RB series (except the RB20E and RB30E, as they were discontinued) was released with a "NEO" head. This enabled the engine to be classed as a LEV (low emission vehicle) engine. With the NEO head, torque and power were further improved although the RB26DETT produced still only 205.94 kW on paper, according to Nissan specs. In reality it produces more than this but it is under estimated because all main Japanese car manufacturers have gentlemen's agreement not to produce cars with engines exceeding 206 kW."

RB20
"There were three 2.0 L RB20 engines produced:

RB20E - single-cam
RB20DE - twin-cam
RB20DET - twin-cam turbo

R32 and R33 Skylines, Laurels and Cefiros used the RB20E/DE/DET, R34 skylines used the RB20DE engine with a NEO head. The non turbo models were also fitted to various Holdens in Australia and New Zealand."

RB25
"The 2.5 L RB25 engine was produced in two forms:

RB25DE - twin-cam
RB25DET - twin-cam turbo

RB25DE and DET engines produced from August 1993 also featured variable cam timing (VCT) for the intake cam. This gave the new RB25DE more power and torque at lower rpm than the previous model.

In May 1998 a NEO head was fitted. This was also a low emission vehicle engine (LEV). The non VCT and non turbo was fitted to the R32 Skyline, the VCT turbo and non turbo was fitted to R33 Skylines and Stages. R34 Skylines also use these engines but they are fitted with a NEO head."

RB26
"The only 2.6 L RB26 was the RB26DETT. This was also the only twin turbo RB."

RB26DETT
"The first 2.6 L RB26DETT featured twin turbochargers and produced 280 hp (205.94 kW) @ 6800 rpm and 260 ft.lbf (353 Nm) @ 4400 rpm. The last series of the RB26DETT (with NEO head) produced 280 hp (205.94 kW) @ 6800 rpm and 289 ft.lbf (392 Nm) @ 4400 rpm. It is renowned for its strength and many examples have been modified to produce over 1000 hp (776 kW)."

It was used in the following cars:

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32
Nissan Skyline GT-R R33
Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 with NEO head.
Tommy Kaira ZZII

drift freaq
10-14-2005, 12:08 PM
Do you guys know where I can get help with wiring? Thanks!

drift freaq: I'm gonna need my A/C & P/S so help a brotha out! Let me know what you can do for me as far as parts! Thanks!
we have wiring service Ka, get a hold of me in private. also I can tell you more about the P. S. . We actually might be marketing a P.S. kit as well :D . As far as AC goes it prettty much a use the AC compressor that comes with the engine make sure its still got the stock line fittings and get a AC shop to extend your lines for you.
Oh ya folks are swap kits are now up in the group buy section.
P.S. good info morpheus

ka24deturbo
10-23-2005, 01:06 PM
I can tell you more about the P. S. . We actually might be marketing a P.S. kit as well :D

I figured out the wiring, I still need PS so make me a kit! Will your downpipe that you sell in your RB25 install kit clear the steering column in my S13 RB20 w/ using the R32 crossmember? I can have one made but if you can sell me one at a resonable price you have a deal!

TRUECATBA1
11-07-2005, 03:48 PM
Im Doing An Rb20 Swap In My S13. Im Running Into A Couple Of Problems.
-speedo: What All Do I Need? R32 Cluster, Speed Cable? And Can You Point Me In The Right Direction To Find This.
-the Ecu That Was Sent W/ My Motor Set Doesn't Plug Into The Harness. I Have Pics, E-mail Me If Your Curious And I'll Send Um To Ya. Has Anyone Esle Ran Into This Problem?

Yellow4g63
11-19-2005, 03:45 AM
Im Doing An Rb20 Swap In My S13. Im Running Into A Couple Of Problems.
-speedo: What All Do I Need? R32 Cluster, Speed Cable? And Can You Point Me In The Right Direction To Find This.
-the Ecu That Was Sent W/ My Motor Set Doesn't Plug Into The Harness. I Have Pics, E-mail Me If Your Curious And I'll Send Um To Ya. Has Anyone Esle Ran Into This Problem?

Take the 5 speed Spesdo sensor out of the Ka tranny and put it into the Rb20 tranny. There you go you now have a Speedo. It should work like normal if you used the Ka lower harness onto the Rb20 motor.

driftfactory
11-22-2005, 12:13 PM
For those of you doing the RB26/RB25 swap, the KA speed sensor is not a direct fit. The easiest thing to do is to wire the RB25 sensor into the KA lower harness. The RB26 uses a cable type speedo sensor so that is out of the question.

driftfactory
11-22-2005, 12:22 PM
One more thing, as far as pounding out the firewall, the only place that you should need to do this is where the bump for the starter is on the transmission. You may not NEED to pound this out if you sit the motor far enough forward, but to sit it back as much as I prefer, you will need to knock the existing starter depression in about another 1/2" or so.

Some people also prefer to bend down the seem that runs along the back of the engine bay, but I have found this to be unnecessary thus far.

drift freaq
11-28-2005, 09:31 PM
One more thing, as far as pounding out the firewall, the only place that you should need to do this is where the bump for the starter is on the transmission. You may not NEED to pound this out if you sit the motor far enough forward, but to sit it back as much as I prefer, you will need to knock the existing starter depression in about another 1/2" or so.

Some people also prefer to bend down the seem that runs along the back of the engine bay, but I have found this to be unnecessary thus far.

You should not need to pound the firewall even with your engine set as far back as possible. I did not need to do it on my car with our install kit and everyone who is buying or has bought our install kit has not needed to do it.

lyon23
12-01-2005, 08:22 AM
You should not need to pound the firewall even with your engine set as far back as possible. I did not need to do it on my car with our install kit and everyone who is buying or has bought our install kit has not needed to do it.

Do you have an RB20 or an RB25? With the rb20 you do not have to bang it(the firewall and tranny channel) in because the tranny is smaller than the rb25. With the rb25 you do have to bang it in like drift factory said around the starter area. Unless your mount kit places the engine so far foward to where is touching your radiator or so low that your engine is tilting down on your pasenger side. I would like to see pics of your mounts and how your engine sits in your car. Also what is all this your taling about a kit for the power steering. The only modification you have to do is, if you have an S13 that had the KA24E, the single cam, then you need the lines from a KA24DE and a resevoir. Even in one of those I bent the power steering line enough to where I can hook it up to the pump. It sounds like you're promoting your shop more then trying to give out info..

lyon23
12-01-2005, 08:30 AM
Will your downpipe that you sell in your RB25 install kit clear the steering column in my S13 RB20 w/ using the R32 crossmember? I can have one made but if you can sell me one at a resonable price you have a deal!

Out of all the rb20 I did using the r32 crossmember only one I did not have to shave the dump pipe of the turbo to fix the steering problem.

andrewmp6
12-02-2005, 05:46 AM
i wanted to know if the z32 valves fit the rb25 head and what else parts head wise i can use from a rb26 or z32

drift freaq
12-18-2005, 12:13 PM
Do you have an RB20 or an RB25? With the rb20 you do not have to bang it(the firewall and tranny channel) in because the tranny is smaller than the rb25. With the rb25 you do have to bang it in like drift factory said around the starter area. Unless your mount kit places the engine so far foward to where is touching your radiator or so low that your engine is tilting down on your pasenger side. I would like to see pics of your mounts and how your engine sits in your car. Also what is all this your taling about a kit for the power steering. The only modification you have to do is, if you have an S13 that had the KA24E, the single cam, then you need the lines from a KA24DE and a resevoir. Even in one of those I bent the power steering line enough to where I can hook it up to the pump. It sounds like you're promoting your shop more then trying to give out info..

No, you do not have to bang out the firewall in your tunnel with the RB25. If you do, its because the kit your using does not lower your engine low enough in the compartment, or allow you to move the engine backwards or forwards. That is where the the issues lies. kits that mount the engine high, will have tunnel clearance issues on the starter/tranny area. If you look in the chat section right now, koukiS14 aka henry, is doing a install with our kit right now.
The Syko kit allows you to move the engine backwards or forwards thereby leaving it up to you how far back you want it. In extreme cases there could be a little tapping and I mean little in the starter area, but you do not have to position the engine so far back as to have to do that with the Syko kit.
The key to dropping the engine lower and pushing it back, is keeping the engines center of gravity low and being able to have room to move the engine and trans back far enough. Which negates any weight balance issues that could happen or people can claim.
Am I promoting our kit a bit ? Yes! Why because I feel its superior to any kit out there and I would like to see people doing clean installs right the first time . Not with pounding body panels to make things fit.
On top of this , on the power steering comment you made.
You do have to shorten one of the twin cams power steering lines and run it directly back to the pump. This is nesscesary when your using the R33 crossmember, which is what we utilize with our kit. In that instance you wind up eliminating some of the loop that Nissan designed in the line for cooling. Hence why we have played with the idea for a kit to help the cooling side of things.

andrewmp6
12-30-2005, 03:45 AM
you have to beat the firewall unless you use the r33 crossmember and does anyone use tomei main bearings or any like them

drift freaq
12-30-2005, 08:39 PM
Do you have an RB20 or an RB25? With the rb20 you do not have to bang it(the firewall and tranny channel) in because the tranny is smaller than the rb25. With the rb25 you do have to bang it in like drift factory said around the starter area. Unless your mount kit places the engine so far foward to where is touching your radiator or so low that your engine is tilting down on your pasenger side. I would like to see pics of your mounts and how your engine sits in your car. Also what is all this your taling about a kit for the power steering. The only modification you have to do is, if you have an S13 that had the KA24E, the single cam, then you need the lines from a KA24DE and a resevoir. Even in one of those I bent the power steering line enough to where I can hook it up to the pump. It sounds like you're promoting your shop more then trying to give out info..
lyon, if you read my posts carefully you will see I run a RB25. I do not own a shop. I do sell a install kit, the best on the market. If you look at the RB25 install in S14 thread in chat you will see it. If you look at our group buy you will see it.
I would like to see people do this swap right. The owner of Syko was the first person to put a RB25 in a S14 in the U.S. over 6 years ago. I have been involved with Nissans for 20 plus years. I like to see people do clean work and not hack jobs. Giving out info about the kit is giving out info.

andrewmp6
12-31-2005, 10:58 PM
drift its up to the person that does the swap i seen a few that used mckinney or tohat mounts that looked good you can make any engine sway look shitty and the earlyest car i found with a rb in it was some guy in fl that crashed the car in 02 and died and lyon about bending the lines most engine swaps dont bolt in you gotta adjust alot of things to get it all good

drift freaq
01-01-2006, 12:10 AM
drift its up to the person that does the swap i seen a few that used mckinney or tohat mounts that looked good you can make any engine sway look shitty and the earlyest car i found with a rb in it was some guy in fl that crashed the car in 02 and died

Andrew, nothing personal but the Mckinney kit just looks terrible as does the Tophat IMHO. One of our customers had a Tophat kit and decided to sell it because he liked how much nicer the Syko kit was.
Oh ya and on that earliest car. That car was not done before 99. If you look at it, you will see its a Kouki S14 which means it was brand new in 97-98. I saw that on the RB25det.org website.
Gary Narusawa(Syko Performance) did his first RB25 S14(Zenki) car in 98-99, by 99-2000 he swapped the engine from his street car into his S14 track car. There are pictures all over the web from track events of that car. The only other swap that I know of thats documented at that time in the country was the Unstable Hybrids RB20 swap.

P.S. Oh ya whoever runs RB25det.org needs to get their facts straightened out. They State the T28 is the factory Turbo for the RB25 on their homepage. That is just straight up wrong. The factory turbo on the RB25 is a T3.

andrewmp6
01-01-2006, 04:40 AM
i ordered my rb25det from venus auto ill have it soon im probably gonna use mckinney mounts im lazy dont feel like pulling out a crossmember if i break them ill make soild mounts

drift freaq
01-01-2006, 11:08 AM
i ordered my rb25det from venus auto ill have it soon im probably gonna use mckinney mounts im lazy dont feel like pulling out a crossmember if i break them ill make soild mounts
Andrew, removing the crossmember is not that hard, you can drop it complete with the engine still on it. Just lift your chassis over it if your feeling lazy. There are more benefits to the Skyo kit than just the crossmember. You will not have to notch your elbow for your steering if you use the Skyo kit. Trust me if you want your swap to be done fast like Henry's(kouki_s14) and running right you will think twice about the McKinney kit.

shockster0429
01-01-2006, 12:32 PM
McKinny Mount kit fits perfectly, i couldnt believe how well the motor fits into the 240sx engine bay once i installed it, motor is place with 3 cylinders behind the cross member and the other 3 in front, its low enough for the hood to clear with ZERO problems and the dump pipe fits with about 1/4 inch to spare from the steering collum. and the tranny mount, fits A plus, might be pricey but its very high quailty. I just did this install about 2 weeks ago. Didnt take any tweakying or rigging for it to fit in, it literally once line up over the mounts DROPED right in.

and andrew i dont see you breaking the mounts.

SYKORB26
01-01-2006, 01:00 PM
Just to clear up a few things. The transmission tunnel clearance issue is applicable to any kit you chose. With the SYKO kit, there is adjustment to move the engine front or rear in order to clear the tunnel. However, if you chose to set the engine as far rearward as possible, at some point, the area of the bellhousing close to the starter will be the first spot to come in contact with the firewall. We've designed the Syko kit to situate the engine as low as possible in order to maximize the clearance in this area. In short, if you set the engine to it's rearmost position it will interfere with the firewall. However, in most cases, the engine can be installed without any modification to the firewall.

Dave, I appreciate your efforts to promote my products, as I know you believe in them. However, please respect Andrew's right to chose whatever kit he feels will best fit his situation. In addition, lets not attack RB25DET.org as they are valuable resource to our community.

Andrew, as Dave has stated, installing the crossmember is not a difficult thing to do. It does require extra time, but the results are worth it in the end. The SYKO kit is designed so that you will not have an issue with the steering shaft or the swaybar. As there are no modifications needed in this area, your swap should go very smoothly.

Bottom line, whatever system you guys chose to use should get the job done. Chose whatever kit best fits your needs. I'd prefer to lose a sale than to see this thread turn ugly. Let's use this forum to promote information rather than products.
Sincerely,
Gary Narusawa
SYKO Performance

Tenchuu
01-01-2006, 01:47 PM
http://cars.ign.com/articles/392/392688p1.html

good writeup on how to put a RB26 in a S14. who the hell knew that IGN had a cars section.

SYKORB26
01-01-2006, 02:49 PM
http://cars.ign.com/articles/392/392688p1.html

good writeup on how to put a RB26 in a S14. who the hell knew that IGN had a cars section.


Karl is a great guy. Funny as hell too. His write-up is well worth reading. I have mad respect for this guy as he fabricates most things himself and is not scared to push the limits. What happened to his S14 was tragic. Nice thing is that he didn't let that disaster hold him back. If you thought his S14 was sick, just wait till he finishes his current project.

andrewmp6
01-02-2006, 01:56 AM
syko i posted a good list of sites on rb25det.org both yours and daves sites are on there with alot of part sites you might wanna take a look

SYKORB26
01-02-2006, 11:05 AM
syko i posted a good list of sites on rb25det.org both yours and daves sites are on there with alot of part sites you might wanna take a look

Thanks Andrew. I really appreciate that.
-Gary

Nan Desu Ka?!
01-04-2006, 03:21 PM
This is the thread to Kouki_s14's RB install writeup with lots of pics and great synopsis of some of the more technical stuff he did to make his project run.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?&p=887151#post887151

I thought it belonged in here.

Tenchuu
01-13-2006, 03:23 PM
Just a side not for you people looking at gettign a R34 RB25DET, the trans is a pull type instead of a push type so you are left with 2 options

1. buy a R32 or 33 trans and use it (with lots of money)
2. convert it to a push type witch takes time and effort but can be done.

i found a writeup on racebread.com on how to do the swap, but since i don't like either of those options i will go with option

3. just get a series II R33 RB25DET

SLYDHO
01-30-2006, 10:07 PM
Do you guys over in the states and rest of the world know that if you Use a A31 Nissan Cefiro engine Cross member then the RB engine drop straight in with standard mounts and all? haha if you didn't know you do. Trust us Kiwis we know all about that shit.

andrewmp6
01-31-2006, 06:04 AM
slydho i have heard that before wont a r33 front mout fit too i do wanna know if anyone has tried a different tranny like the z32 one like most sr owners want

kouki_s14
01-31-2006, 12:45 PM
the r33 crossmember does let you drop the motor straight in, however it will not be at an ideal position. too high and too far forward, but it fits. maybe the A31 cefiro positions it better? i dont know, but if it does show us some pictures!

andrewmp6
02-01-2006, 01:39 AM
henry i have heard the a31 one makes it fit great aint seen any pictures tho might have to search some aussie sites to find them

Taffy
03-03-2006, 10:50 PM
Put spacers in the R33 crossmember to drop it down so the hood clears.

drift freaq
03-04-2006, 11:59 AM
Put spacers in the R33 crossmember to drop it down so the hood clears.
Lowering your crossmember changes the pivot point of your LCA. If you lower the car as most of us do,this will add to the problem of positive camber under suspension compression i.e. turns, bumps etc. The reason for this is ideally your lower control arm should be downward and moving to a parallel situation under compression. Its not ideal to be starting in any kind of upwards position or moving to that, because it will negatively affect your handling as stated earlier.
The other problem with this pratice is it takes away from ground clearance. The ideal way is to lower your engine through your mounts.

andrewmp6
03-08-2006, 07:36 AM
does a sr turbo elbow fit the rb25

Armysweitzer
03-08-2006, 04:14 PM
nope, it wont.

bardabe
03-08-2006, 07:55 PM
rb25 valves are the same as vg30dett valves.
VG30DETT and VG30DE valves are the same. as well as cams, timing belt, thermostat, Head and Head gasket.

andrewmp6
03-09-2006, 12:32 AM
no the vg valves dont fit there longer i look up both spec dont not listen to thesnail only parts that fit are the lifters springs and i believe the cam gears the cams wont fit there too short

bardabe
03-16-2006, 10:57 AM
cams wont fit there too short
well that is only Ovious I did not catch that earlier. yeah it;s true VG Cams won't fit the RB as for the cams being too short is is straight Ovious .the VG is Atwin cam V6 there for having 4 cams (2 intake 2 exhaust) so the cams are only long enough for 3 cylidners. but the TT and NA (VG30DE) cam gears are the same. (basically the VG30DE and TT Engines are the same the only diference is the location and position of the Oil Squirters and the Pitons everithing else is the same.

-Juanton

s13srmadness
03-26-2006, 03:11 PM
with a mount kit in an s14 with a koyo rad will any electric fans fit between rad and motor?
i was specifically curious about altima fans.

Tenchuu
03-26-2006, 03:46 PM
with a mount kit in an s14 with a koyo rad will any electric fans fit between rad and motor?
i was specifically curious about altima fans.

if FAL 220's are too thick (witch i found out after buying them) altima fans are WAY too thick. from what i have heard front mount is the best option followed by the ghetto looking 1 pusher and 1 puller setup.

drift freaq
03-26-2006, 06:08 PM
if FAL 220's are too thick (witch i found out after buying them) altima fans are WAY too thick. from what i have heard front mount is the best option followed by the ghetto looking 1 pusher and 1 puller setup.
Man Tenchuu ,my s13 does not look ghetto and its got the 1 pusher 1 puller setup. Hahahahahaha
Actually my and quote "ghetto setup" will flow more air than a dual pusher setup.

Tenchuu
03-26-2006, 07:00 PM
i said ghetto looking, had nothing to do with performance. i just perfer the balenced look of 2 togather vs the staggered 1 push and 1 pull.

drift freaq
03-26-2006, 07:40 PM
i said ghetto looking, had nothing to do with performance. i just perfer the balenced look of 2 togather vs the staggered 1 push and 1 pull.
hahaha ya and I was referring to ghetto looking. hahhahha the setup does not look ghetto on my s13 hahhahhaha.
I threw in the Performance part just to rib you. hahhahahha
Also all jokes aside. With the S13, there is not enough clearance to run dual pullers, especially if your running air. There is, also limited room to attempt a dual pusher setup on the front side. Hence the push pull setup.
The s14 has a much larger front area, allowing for dual pushers.

P.S. give me a call ken I got a plug I need to send to you.

SYKORB26
03-27-2006, 12:21 AM
Just to clarify. We've found that the S-14 has plenty of room for dual pushers in front of the AC condenser. However, on the S-13 one of the AC condenser lines interferes on the left side of the car. This limits the size of fans you can run. If you remove the AC condenser, there is plenty of room for dual pushers. Thus, we recommend the push/pull setup for the S13 if you plan to keep AC.

As for pullers, there is only enough room for a very thin single fan on the right side. We only know of two ways to run dual pullers. One is to get rid of the AC compressor and Power steering pump. The other is to notch the radiator support and move the radiator and condenser forward. This goes for both the S13 and S14. Using the Koyo makes any type of puller setup more difficult as it is a very thick radiator.

joewantstodrift
03-27-2006, 04:21 PM
does anyone have stock specs and info for the rb25? especially what stock compression should be.

SYKORB26
03-27-2006, 10:01 PM
does anyone have stock specs and info for the rb25? especially what stock compression should be.

Are you looking for specs for compression test or compression ratio? Assuming you are looking for specs for a compression test my reference shows:

Standard: 12.2 kg/cm2 (173 psi)
Min limit: 9.2 kg/cm2 (131 psi)
max variance between cylinders: 1.0 kg/cm2 (14psi)

s13srmadness
03-28-2006, 10:55 AM
disheartening news.
so can altima fans be wired to push and would they fit in the other side?
what other dual 12" setups would fit and what do peope here reccomend?
i have an s14 with a koyo, but my intercooler is pretty much sandwhiched up against the rad towards the very top.

s13srmadness
03-28-2006, 11:41 AM
ok, what do you guys think of dual 10s pushing and a little guy 9" puller?
with a koyo, low temp thermostat, and the n1 water pump.
this is what i think im going to go with. do not think dual 12s can fit for my setup.

hybrid_eg
03-28-2006, 12:21 PM
my vote goes to FAL dual pullers and of course no air to make them fit there! but then again, thats just me as i hate air period.. new or used car :)

s13srmadness
03-29-2006, 01:01 AM
my vote goes to FAL dual pullers and of course no air to make them fit there! but then again, thats just me as i hate air period.. new or used car :)
that is the stupidest and most unrelatrf response ever.
readwhat was written.dual 12 pullers are beyond out of the question.
thanks for upping your post count with your useless and uninformed opinion.
please delete your post yesterday...

Tenchuu
03-29-2006, 06:59 AM
The size isn't the issue there, it is the CFM, if you get a high CFM fan it should do the job

for cooling i am sporting 2 10" HP permacool fans between them both should pull 2500cfm or push 80% of that (2000 CFM) or i can do the alternate thing like Drift freaq said and push/pull 2250 CFM (http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page16.html) if you can find a 10" that no shit flows 5000 CFM then you would only need one.

joewantstodrift
03-29-2006, 02:32 PM
Are you looking for specs for compression test or compression ratio? Assuming you are looking for specs for a compression test my reference shows:

Standard: 12.2 kg/cm2 (173 psi)
Min limit: 9.2 kg/cm2 (131 psi)
max variance between cylinders: 1.0 kg/cm2 (14psi)

thanks. you answered my question.

Taffy
03-30-2006, 06:35 AM
Lowering your crossmember changes the pivot point of your LCA. If you lower the car as most of us do,this will add to the problem of positive camber under suspension compression i.e. turns, bumps etc. The reason for this is ideally your lower control arm should be downward and moving to a parallel situation under compression. Its not ideal to be starting in any kind of upwards position or moving to that, because it will negatively affect your handling as stated earlier.

Our car handles pretty good even with the lowered crossmember. This is with basically replacement shocks and Tein Luxo Master Springs. I am very happy with the performance.

The other problem with this pratice is it takes away from ground clearance. The ideal way is to lower your engine through your mounts.

This is true, but lowering the crossmember is a lot easier and cheaper.

hybrid_eg
03-30-2006, 01:29 PM
that is the stupidest and most unrelatrf response ever.
readwhat was written.dual 12 pullers are beyond out of the question.
thanks for upping your post count with your useless and uninformed opinion.
please delete your post yesterday...

what i meant was the two fan set up in front of the radiator of an S13, not S14, and i wasnt answering your question on the fan set up, simply stating for others who plan on doing it in an S13 chassis and dont care about keeping their AC. Sorry if i didnt make it clear or used a wrong pusher/puller term that may have confused you. Anyways, thanks for your smartass reply!

Tex Willer
04-01-2006, 01:51 PM
Flex-a-lites "puller" don`t fit between Koyo radiator and engine.
"Pusher" in front will work.

andrewmp6
04-03-2006, 05:40 AM
whats the biggest turbo that fits the stock exhaust manifold and turbo elbow on a rb25

Tenchuu
04-03-2006, 08:12 AM
I just put in 2 10" permacool HP fans and they barley fit in the front.

EDIT they don't push enuff air, they fail at life.

Tex Willer
04-05-2006, 03:10 PM
whats the biggest turbo that fits the stock exhaust manifold and turbo elbow on a rb25
Many turbo`s will fit the T3 flange. Like this Precision GT3582R 600hp+
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/tjomi/GT3582R.jpg
Don`t know of any turbo that will fit std elbow ...6 bolt pattern.

SYKORB26
04-06-2006, 01:12 AM
As Tex said, the T3 manifold side is no problem. Only turbos I know of that fit with the factory O2 housing/elbow were the ones sold in the HKS ECR33 GT Sports turbine kit. Most people putting on a very large turbo are willing to deal with some fabrication. Don't expect to find many direct bolt on turbos for this engine.

andrewmp6
04-07-2006, 12:44 AM
yeah i started looking around i might say hell with it and get a top mount with somthing big

Taffy
04-07-2006, 11:36 AM
whats the biggest turbo that fits the stock exhaust manifold and turbo elbow on a rb25

Any T3 or T3/T4 turbo will fit. The highest horsepower, readily available turbo that will bolt on is a T3/T4 with a 67mm compressor. Stage 5 wheel is about the biggest exhaust wheel that you should put in a T3 exhuast housing. A P trim will fit, but is not a good idea.

eh?
04-08-2006, 07:07 AM
P.S. Oh ya whoever runs RB25det.org needs to get their facts straightened out. They State the T28 is the factory Turbo for the RB25 on their homepage. That is just straight up wrong. The factory turbo on the RB25 is a T3.

I run that site and I hope by now you've figured out that turbo is NOT a T3, it just has a T3 flange. It's a hybrid turbo.

drift freaq
04-08-2006, 06:00 PM
I run that site and I hope by now you've figured out that turbo is NOT a T3, it just has a T3 flange. It's a hybrid turbo.
you sir are wrong, its a modified T3 but it is a T3 not just a T3 flange. Plus your site said it was a T28. Seems to be your trying to cover your mistake here.

a2low240
04-10-2006, 06:57 AM
.....Giving out info about the kit is giving out info.

Agreed,
S13 RB25 with stock 02 EXT and stock sway bar mounts + as low as possible.


http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&id=1121

eh?
04-12-2006, 09:21 AM
you sir are wrong, its a modified T3 but it is a T3 not just a T3 flange. Plus your site said it was a T28. Seems to be your trying to cover your mistake here.

1)You are wrong . Stop being ignorant and use a google search.
2)It's not MY mistake. Right at the top of the faq it says "Made by sellingthe7 from 240sxforums.com"
3)I'll stand by the t28 statement. Everyone in the RB community (obviously not YOU) knows it's a modified t28 with a t3 flange.

:mrmeph:

drift freaq
04-12-2006, 02:01 PM
1)You are wrong . Stop being ignorant and use a google search.
2)It's not MY mistake. Right at the top of the faq it says "Made by sellingthe7 from 240sxforums.com"
3)I'll stand by the t28 statement. Everyone in the RB community (obviously not YOU) knows it's a modified t28 with a t3 flange.

:mrmeph:
1. I am not ignorant, I do not need to do a google search I have in the field experience.
2. You allowed the statement to happen on your site therefore you are responsible under publishing law. Which by the way pertains to the internet. You published it by putting it on your site.
3. Like I stated, the turbo is a hybrid, based off a T3 you cannot deny that statement. It is not a T28 as much as you say its not a T3. Lets agree thats its a Hybrid and stop letting your emotions get the better of you.

P.S. you really make your point by calling me an asshole.

ka24deturbo
04-25-2006, 08:47 AM
Hey guys I'm having some problems with the front bottom sway bar. I searched online and found people using washers to lower the sway bar from the oil pan. When I turn I hear the sway bar moving around, is there another alternative that anyone has found? Thanks!

R33GTS-T
04-25-2006, 10:32 AM
Agreed,
S13 RB25 with stock 02 EXT and stock sway bar mounts + as low as possible.


http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&id=1121
i believe this was the picture you were lookin for :bigok:
http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=1121

and here's another pic of how low the engine sits
http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=1122

SYKORB26
04-25-2006, 08:36 PM
Hey guys I'm having some problems with the front bottom sway bar. I searched online and found people using washers to lower the sway bar from the oil pan. When I turn I hear the sway bar moving around, is there another alternative that anyone has found? Thanks!

What installation kit did you use for the conversion? Using washers may lower the swaybar, but can create a gap between the swaybar bushing and the chassis. This takes efficiency away from your swaybar as it's no longer ridgidly attached to the chassis. We solve this problem by including precision machined aluminum spacers in our installation kit. Unlike washers, these spacers keep your bushings compressed eliminating the problems you are experiencing.
-Gary Narusawa
www.sykoperformance.com

ka24deturbo
04-27-2006, 12:56 PM
Not using a mount kit, I used the R32 Cross member, I tried filling the gap with some old bushings but it's still making that clunking noise so I'm guessing that didn't work, would your "precision machined aluminum spacers" work with my setup? How much can you sell them to me seperate from your kit? Do you have a spare stock RB20 ECU you can sell me?

SYKORB26
04-28-2006, 01:47 AM
Unfortunately, we do not sell parts seperate from the kit. In addition, our kit is designed for the RB25 and will not work with the R32 crossmember. As for the ECU, please PM me and I'll see what I can do.
-Gary Narusawa
www.sykoperformance.com

idiot goes sideways
04-29-2006, 05:38 PM
i know its a litle out of the blue but i wonder how does a s13, with a sixpot rb on the front suspension, feel to drive??
its heaver, okay maybe thats not the big deal but the weight is moving forwards, doesn`t you loose much cornering speed?

drift freaq
04-29-2006, 10:55 PM
i know its a litle out of the blue but i wonder how does a s13, with a sixpot rb on the front suspension, feel to drive??
its heaver, okay maybe thats not the big deal but the weight is moving forwards, doesn`t you loose much cornering speed?
It feels no different than a KA24DE car. A KA24DE is 75lbs heavier than a SR. If you add a turbo setup to KA you wind up at the same weight as the RB i.e. 150lbs heavier than a SR setup.
There is a difference with the RB though, a good 60 percent of the extra weight is actually in the transmission. So its actually a better front rear bias weight balance than a KA turbo car and with the engine set as far back as possible, you really are not putting much more weight over the front struts.
The people that have never experienced the setup like to think and even espouse the idea that its a problem. Its not. Car drives fine and there are several people drifting the cars here in socal and they have not had any problems with loosing cornering speed. In fact you have so much torque and power you can haul ass.

DrtyRat
04-29-2006, 11:22 PM
Wow, unless I missed it has anyone posted the hp limits of a stock rb26..I got a friend who's dropping an rb into his 240 and I told him I would try to find out

R33GTS-T
05-01-2006, 08:55 PM
i can tell you that since my RB swap the car feels MUCH more.....put together if you will. the car feels considerably more solid and the overall balance of the car is perfectly neutral when out on the autox course (haven't had a chance to road race it yet)

the way my RB is sitting in the car is such that the front of the turbo to the back of the engine is in fact sitting behind the front hubs. i previously had an SR in the car and the car felt less stable, more tail happy, and definitely not as well put together

i hope to be able to get my car weighed next week....i'll post up the results afterwards

- Daniel

static
05-14-2006, 09:15 AM
Are the torque specs the same for the mains, rods, and head bolts on the RB engines?

tecnic1
05-16-2006, 07:16 PM
tophat mounts + rb20det + kouki s14 = custom o2 senser housing
No way around that, it wasn't even close...
oxygen sensor housing j-pipe turbo dump

ranger2339
05-22-2006, 05:54 AM
Gary

Email sent..

Josh

munna
05-30-2006, 06:49 PM
The RB tuning guides at this site may be helpful
RB tuning guides (http://nissanskyline.6te.net)

drift freaq
06-19-2006, 11:59 AM
The RB tuning guides at this site may be helpful
RB tuning guides (http://nissanskyline.6te.net)

Thanks munna, very cool indeed.

Rezlo
07-06-2006, 05:10 PM
Just for interest sakes what are you guys doing 1/4 miles wise and 0-60mph with your RB25 swaps at stock boost, Obviously we all run the basic upgrades like intercooler, exhaust ectr to get them in the car so it must add a little,

I think its pretty simple to fit a RB25 into a S14, drop it in on the stock S14 subframe on nismo mounts and make your own trans mount and shorten the drive shaft. doesnt take very long seems to work well if you can work with your hands.

deep in silvia
07-16-2006, 11:49 PM
The B&M short shifter for the ka/sr transmission will not work with our
rb25det.

idiot goes sideways
08-18-2006, 01:51 PM
ok, just in case, i`m a clueless s13 driver with absolute no idea how to fit a rb in my s13 (ok i realy got no idea how to do this), but got JUST IN CASE interrrested and bought a rb25 with tranny, ecu, turbo and power steering,

what for parts need i and what must be modified to fit the engine in?, lets say the engine should sit nice deep and mostback

deep in silvia
08-19-2006, 10:21 PM
you can be serious...........

drift freaq
08-19-2006, 11:00 PM
ok, just in case, i`m a clueless s13 driver with absolute no idea how to fit a rb in my s13 (ok i realy got no idea how to do this), but got JUST IN CASE interrrested and bought a rb25 with tranny, ecu, turbo and power steering,

what for parts need i and what must be modified to fit the engine in?, lets say the engine should sit nice deep and mostback

your question is broad and I am going to take it as a real inquiry. Putting a RB25 in a S13 all depends on how you wish to go about it.
For instance if you want it as low and as far back as you can get it, then you should use the R33 crossmember. Yes I will recommend the Syko Performance kit based on the fact that Syko has designed the nicest engine mount I have seen to date(that does position the engine lower and farther back than their competition). Yes in the course of developing a install kit for the Higher HP RB26 Syko improved on there already excellent mount design. In this case they migrated that mount design to the 25 install kit.
Now you have a choice of trying to do the install on the cheap using stock mounts that will leave the engine sitting higher. Also trying to fashion a elbow/downpipe that would clear your steering, again Syko addressed this issue and no other install kit has. A lot of people notch there elbow, again a on the cheap way that actually reduces flow and affects HP.
Its up to you. There are people that have posted in the thread how to do it on the cheap. I chose to go about it the right way and use a kit that was engineered to do it right and lock as stock as possible. I do sell the Syko kit but I am not Syko take that for what its worth. I believe in their product because its proven to be the best out there in my opinion.

hybrid_eg
09-04-2006, 10:39 PM
Just to clear up a few things. The transmission tunnel clearance issue is applicable to any kit you chose. With the SYKO kit, there is adjustment to move the engine front or rear in order to clear the tunnel. However, if you chose to set the engine as far rearward as possible, at some point, the area of the bellhousing close to the starter will be the first spot to come in contact with the firewall. We've designed the Syko kit to situate the engine as low as possible in order to maximize the clearance in this area. In short, if you set the engine to it's rearmost position it will interfere with the firewall. However, in most cases, the engine can be installed without any modification to the firewall.

Sincerely,
Gary Narusawa
SYKO Performance

I would just like to say that the RB26 kit works flawlessly. Gary is not just a great friend but also the most reliable trustworthy person out there!! I can vouch that his product is simply "flawless". Driveability is an absolute "perfection".

Tenchuu
09-06-2006, 09:31 PM
ALso another +1 for the syko kit. and -10000000 for 0 psi on cyl 5, and a +1 for enjoying the drivibility of a RB car, MUTCH more response than a SR

lonedrifter
09-13-2006, 08:10 PM
just call "top hat proformance" for ur rb20-25-or 26 swap, they make kits just for these apps, plus EVERYTHING lines up the way it should without any hood, down pipe, or stearing line problems.
www.tophatproformance.com
i beleave there in Conyers, Ga

Chemical Whore
10-27-2006, 10:57 PM
anyone have a good source for a RB25DET clip?

Rezlo
10-28-2006, 02:26 AM
Removed, I no longer will support a business that doesnt care about its customers.

Chemical Whore
10-28-2006, 02:46 PM
Eric at BNE Customs in cali [email protected]

He has a wide range of RB parts and my clip I got from him was litteraly brand new.

Thanks a lot.

hybrid_eg
11-26-2006, 08:33 PM
i didnt see this anywhere but for the 26 guys here are details for the Alternator and Power Steering belt replacement at your local parts store.

Goodyear Poly-V (Gatorback) (Power Steering Belt)
Part# 4040382,4PK0970
Goodyear Poly-V (Gatorback) (Alternator Belt)
Part# 4040347,4PK0880

ECR33S14
11-29-2006, 08:04 PM
hey guys ive got a 95 S14 with a series 2 rb25det swap and my number 3 coil pack is bad. is there anything stateside with the same style coil pack i can use. i cant find anything that will work. and i also cant find series 2 rb25 or rb26 stock packs for sale. i really dont want to go aftermarket yet any information will be greatly appreciated.

drifts135
12-04-2006, 02:18 AM
Im by no means "new" to RBs, and have owned several RB powered vehicles, but I need a clutch NOW.

I have installed two clutches in all of my time owning these cars, both clutches were bought for a 300zx NA 90-up. They both fit fine on my RB20s.

I cannot find a reasonabley priced clutch to fit the horsepower needs of my current RB20.

(only a statement) I have seen a couple of companies (seemingly reputable companies) selling clutches and stating that a particular kit of theirs is for a SR20 or a RB20....



My question is, has anyone sat a rb20 clutch and p plate next to that of an sr20? Are they the same? WILL THE SR CLUTCH WORK TOO???????????

Seems too good to be true, any info?

Ps. I searched, but nothing crazy...10min at most.

newblood
12-04-2006, 01:26 PM
i have a 1990 240sx and i want to go rb20....what will i need to install it...does it bolt up,does it not,...what parts do i need

KingPastry
12-04-2006, 03:52 PM
i have a 1990 240sx and i want to go rb20....what will i need to install it...does it bolt up,does it not,...what parts do i need
search around a little and you'll find the answer easily.. your motor choice is by far the easiest swap of the rb's

Chemical Whore
12-06-2006, 09:47 PM
Any know if nismo sells camshaft blanks for the RB25DET?

drifts135
12-08-2006, 08:03 PM
anyone got a clue on the sr/rb clutch thing?????

drift freaq
12-08-2006, 09:02 PM
Lets knock all these questions down.
Series 2 coilpacks? No there is no U.S. car that I know of that ran the same thing. There could be now. I suggest you research it a little buy contacting a Nissan dealer and showing them your coilpack for a cross reference. Other than that, look to a importer for spare coilpacks, or even ebay. I have seen them pop up on ebay from time to time.

On to the clutch question

RB clutches are not the same as SR clutches there is a surface area size difference.

And for the camshaft question

As far as I know Nismo does not sell camshaft blanks for the RB here in the U.S.. Most of the Nismo parts available for the RB in the U.S. are stuff like gaskets, water pumps,thermostats and oil pumps. Your best bet for cams for the RB are Tomei Poncams which are actually very nice cams.

There I hope this at least helps you guys some. Good luck

Chemical Whore
12-12-2006, 12:09 PM
Lets knock all these questions down.
Series 2 coilpacks? No there is no U.S. car that I know of that ran the same thing. There could be now. I suggest you research it a little buy contacting a Nissan dealer and showing them your coilpack for a cross reference. Other than that, look to a importer for spare coilpacks, or even ebay. I have seen them pop up on ebay from time to time.

On to the clutch question

RB clutches are not the same as SR clutches there is a surface area size difference.

And for the camshaft question

As far as I know Nismo does not sell camshaft blanks for the RB here in the U.S.. Most of the Nismo parts available for the RB in the U.S. are stuff like gaskets, water pumps,thermostats and oil pumps. Your best bet for cams for the RB are Tomei Poncams which are actually very nice cams.

There I hope this at least helps you guys some. Good luck

I know you have to use a custom downpipe if you go with a Twins on a RB26 swap in a S13 but what size turbo can you go with if you do aftermarket twins?

drift freaq
12-13-2006, 12:36 PM
I know you have to use a custom downpipe if you go with a Twins on a RB26 swap in a S13 but what size turbo can you go with if you do aftermarket twins?
Thats a very random question, Truth be told a pair of GT2530's would be downright sick on a 26. It would easily push you into the 600HP range in my opinion. RB26DETT install is baller to begin with. Its not a inexpensive install. That said it can be done and has been done. I have a friend running a RB26 car, as we speak. With just the PowerFC and a boost controller he is probably close to 450hp, on a completely stock engine. Unless your building an all out drag machine, you could safely say thats as far as you need to go. Thats the sick part about doing the 26.
I will be putting out somewhere in the range of 330-340 whp on my next dyno run. I am happy with those numbers I am not shooting for higher because I want my car to be driveable. I am also not trying to build a drag car.

Chemical Whore
12-13-2006, 12:44 PM
Thats a very random question, Truth be told a pair of GT2530's would be downright sick on a 26. It would easily push you into the 600HP range in my opinion. RB26DETT install is baller to begin with. Its not a inexpensive install. That said it can be done and has been done. I have a friend running a RB26 car, as we speak. With just the PowerFC and a boost controller he is probably close to 450hp, on a completely stock engine. Unless your building an all out drag machine, you could safely say thats as far as you need to go. Thats the sick part about doing the 26.
I will be putting out somewhere in the range of 330-340 whp on my next dyno run. I am happy with those numbers I am not shooting for higher because I want my car to be driveable. I am also not trying to build a drag car.

Im a random person ahaha I know its not cheap. I was just wondering if its going to have issues with hood clearance etc.. if i went with a twin GT2538 type of set up.

LB.Motoring
12-13-2006, 04:47 PM
^ there should be no clearance issues... unless you went weird on the Exh mani

hybrid_eg
12-15-2006, 01:47 AM
hmm.. me saving up them pennies for some -Garrett 2860R-5, very similar to (HKS GT2530's) if anything its a more cost effective set up, bolts right up and should clear fine :-) it will yield an easy 500whp with the right set up and tune.. and yes that will probably be the max you want to step on the stock 26..

artizzl
01-04-2007, 10:20 PM
wiring on a RB25Det on a 91 240 .
i was wondering do i need 2 get
custom wiring done for the wiring harness
from the motor to the car ?
cus i the RB25 with the wiringharness and ECU
couldnt i just use the RB ecu on the 240 ?
cus im lost and people tell me different things
everyday so if any one could help me out a bit .
id be happy .

BIZERK
01-05-2007, 09:15 AM
english evades you. anyway, you use the RB ecu and wiring harness....its pretty much common sense when you really think about it. you have to use the ECU that manages/controls the motor that you are putting in.

250sx
01-15-2007, 10:41 PM
? about all the mount kits that lower the engine, what does this do for oil pan to ground clearance. On mine i just used the r33 cross member and stock mounts moved back 1" and if the engine was much lower it would be below the crossmember.

hashiriya13
01-16-2007, 07:46 AM
but what size turbo can you go with if you do aftermarket twins?

Well here is some info. (I put this 26 in a 32 type m but it will replace my 25 in the 240 when I get back) I am running the Nismo twins (14411-RS581) T04B compressor A/R 0.60 Turbine A/R 0.64 with a rom tune and only ran it at 1 bar. getting 428.9 ps on 93 octane. Not pushing the turbos yet and they fit like stock. They are good to 600 I know maybe a little more and are garret so cheap to rebuild. Well here is the chart.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e290/GTS-R32/dynos/rb26nismoturbos.jpg

And for the 20 guys for refrance My boys 20 with a 2530 at 1.2 bar put down 320ps with the rest of the motor stock with a brid ecu.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e290/GTS-R32/dynos/rb20HKS2530.jpg

:aw: RB20 run (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2470255194766923335):aw: <--------CLICK

jobestudios
01-17-2007, 01:20 AM
What are the diameter, thread pitch and legnth of rb20det oil lines, I didnt get any with my motorset.

MELLO*SOS
01-26-2007, 10:40 AM
This didn't exist, I had the info and another guy needed it, so I made it..

A31 RB20DET Ecu wiring harness pinout with wire colors:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/pfiles/2041/A31%20R32%20RB20DET%20ECU%20WIRE%20COLOR%20HARNESS %20PINOUT%20v2.gif

Please save & redistribute as needed, I don't know how long we-todd-did-racing will host the image.

MELLO*SOS
01-26-2007, 10:43 AM
Also some info on Exhaust manifold studs, washers, yokes, nuts:

(qty needed)

(12) Exhaust manifold studs - 01151-00471
Courtesy told me this wasn't a valid US part number... But according to Shay @ NismoParts.com, it is valid -- but it's an Infinity part number! Ordered from Shay @ Nismoparts.com

(8) Exhaust manifold yokes - 14037-42L01
Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com. 24mm outer diam for cyl 1,2,5,6

(4) Exhaust manifold yokes - 14037-42L02
Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com. 22mm outer diam for cyl 3,4

(12) Exhaust manifold washers 14037-01E00
Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com

(12) Exhaust manifold nuts 08912-8401A
According to Courtesy "97812-8401A" is is not a valid PN. I looked the nuts up in FAST and found a new PN, "08912-84010". Shay @ Nismoparts.com informed me that "08912-8401A" is the superseded PN. Readily available Courtesy/Nismoparts.com

These parts are all $.60 to $1.70 each, so figure roughly $1/each on average.
12 studs + 12 yokes + 12 washers + 12 nuts = 48 parts @ ~$1 ea = $50 plus shipping for a full set.

MELLO*SOS
01-26-2007, 10:45 AM
Nismo makes r32/r33/r34 motor mounts for use with with oem mount brackets and x-member. For R32 2WD: PN 11220-RS585 you'll need two:

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/engine-mounts

The Nismo KA trans mount is apparently the same as the RB trans mount. I plan on re-using mine (thanks drift_freaq), if it's different for any reason I'll update the post.

Seven
02-06-2007, 03:27 AM
I've been trying to find some dyno graphs of RB25s with a GT35R on em... Does ANYONE have such a graph??

MELLO*SOS
02-06-2007, 09:36 AM
RB25 water pump on RB20 does not work properly. Check out the pictures and write up below...
Cross posted from my post on the other RB boards.


I saw a few old threads asking if an RB25 pump will fit on the RB20, but nobody really answered one way or the other... Except to say the pumps look very similar (rb25 bolt hole #1 is slotted and rb20 hole #1 isn't). Bad news for us RB20 guys -- the RB25 pump will NOT work properly. Check it out...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v180/mello88/rb25waterpump.jpg
Blue area shows the overlap/leak area. Pink line is the edge of the water passage, yellow is the slot size and green is the bolt hole.

The slotted hole, the only visual difference in the pumps, is what causes the problem on the RB20. It will bolt up perfectly, but because of the metal removed from the pump to form the slot, part of the water passageway will be exposed! This little gap is enough to cause the RTV not to seal very well in that area, or if it does maybe seal a thin coat, it will quickly blow out.


http://lh4.google.com/image/joelmello/Rcg-a2HoY9I/AAAAAAAAAOM/3k-6nsUyTJw/s288/DSC01864.JPG

http://lh6.google.com/image/joelmello/Rcg-cWHoY-I/AAAAAAAAAPY/8vyEXa2m-iE/s288/DSC01866.JPG

If you look in first picture, in the the lower left corner of the slotted bolt hole (behind the bits of RTV), you'll be able to see the water passage way. The second picture shows the end of a large zip tie shoved into the gap, it's a pretty good size hole (hard to see in pics)... Anyway in both pics, the pump is aligned and hand tightened on a few bolts. From there, you cannot really adjust the pump up or to the right any more (as it would seem to improve sealing by the slot). This may just be a case of slight variances in the block casting, but I think there is a reason RB25/RB26 use the slotted hole and RB20 doesn't. I think the RB25 has a slightly different casting on the block under and to the left of the #1 bolt hole.

The RB20 pump of course has a single non slotted bolt hole, which does a much better job of sealing off the passageway, and provides more metal to metal surface area for the RTV to seal:

http://lh4.google.com/image/joelmello/Rcg-t2HoY_I/AAAAAAAAAOs/MPZ_1de1JNs/s288/DSC01899.JPG

I pressure tested my cooling system the other day and found a huge leak out of the slotted bolt hole before I knew about this issue.. Ok, I figured I must have missed an area with the RTV, so I removed the crank pulley, timing covers, timing belt, etc to re-install the pump. I took extra care to evenly cover all of the pump's mating surface with RTV this time around. After hand-tightening the bolts on the pump and letting the new RTV cure, I torqued the pump bolts down the rest of the way. Next I pressure tested the cooling system again, this time to 2 bar. It held briefly but quickly blew a hole in the RTV in exactly the same place in the slotted bolt hole as last time! It actually blew out some RTV I squished into the back left corner of the slotted bolt hole (to help cover the gap)... Which means it wasn't sealed from the back (block side) at all. I'd rather have it blow out on the engine stand than on the freeway....

Your mileage may vary, but as far as I can see the RB25 pump is not a viable option for the RB20. Does the N1 water pump have the slotted hole? Did anyone else catch this sealing problem on their RB20? Also If someone has a picture of their RB25 block without the water pump, I would like to see if there are any differences under and to the left of the #1 bolt hole:
http://lh4.google.com/image/joelmello/Rcg-Y2HoY6I/AAAAAAAAAPM/ODDsx_DrTFQ/s288/DSC01870.JPG

annie4rb20
02-07-2007, 10:29 PM
I've been trying to find some dyno graphs of RB25s with a GT35R on em... Does ANYONE have such a graph??

These are links I've found especially helpful

RB20 Turbo Upgrade, Dyno Results (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=103095)

The one you want to look around in:

RB25 Turbo Upgrade, Dyno Results (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55845)

And for the surprisingly less rare RB26 people

RB26 Turbo Upgrade, Dyno Results (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=93880)

Gotta love the Aussies... Hope it helps.

Seven
02-08-2007, 05:16 AM
Thanks :) I'll take a look and see.

wangan_cruiser
02-15-2007, 02:12 AM
can you use the ka24de koyo radiator for rb25?

Yellow4g63
02-15-2007, 03:01 AM
Yes you can.

kouki_s14
02-20-2007, 09:52 AM
in case anyone was wondering, i got 13mpg :bite: on the race track yesterday @ 10 psi

bardabe
02-20-2007, 05:58 PM
in case anyone was wondering, i got 13mpg :bite: on the race track yesterday @ 10 psi
LOL that;s not bad at all I got 8MPG at 12PSI on my SR..... still waiting ont he results fromn the RB. I got the GOld top so it came with a ball bearing T28. =] not limited to 12PSI like most folks. we'll see my results. hopefully withing the next 2 months.

need4speed069
02-20-2007, 07:19 PM
Can anyone tell me how to tell the difference between an RB25DET SERIES l AND SERIES ll, THANKS!!!!!!!!

BIZERK
02-20-2007, 10:13 PM
rb25det series one uses an ignitor pack/chip and a series two has the ignitor built into the coils. thats is the most noticeable difference, the MAFS are different too i believe.

ECR33S14
03-05-2007, 11:01 AM
Any one got SAFC II maf settings for a series II RB25? ive searched and am unable to find them. i just need the proper in and out settings. thanks.

wangan_cruiser
03-10-2007, 09:45 PM
which way is easier to mount the engine rb25? from the bottom or from the top?

wangan_cruiser
03-10-2007, 09:49 PM
Yes you can.
wonderin if theres any clearance issue with it? since i heard koyos were thick to make an e fans to fit or you gotta make it fit to clear the crank pulley

cmcdougle
03-10-2007, 11:35 PM
which way is easier to mount the engine rb25? from the bottom or from the top?

I don't understand what you're asking. . .

Rezlo
03-11-2007, 12:43 AM
you can not mount the engine in from the bottom, well you could by removing the whole front cross member but it wouldnt be fun.

Go in from the top with the transmission attached to it, its best to get as much of hardware onto the motor before dropping it in as its a little tight to work on once its in.

If you dont use the AC you can move the radiator about 80mm forward which gives you enough room for the fans on the back of a 40mm thick radiator pluss about 30-40mm clearance to the cank pully in an S14.

eh?
03-11-2007, 04:14 AM
It's a hell of a lot easier putting it in from the bottom. I've done the bottom mount about 5 times and top mount once. I will never drop it from the top again. Plus you don't need a hoist.

hybrid_eg
03-11-2007, 05:12 AM
from the bottom for sure.. to take the cross memeber apart is a joke.. gives you an opportunity to change any bushings you want at the time, rack and pinion bushing, you'll probably be doing PS lines so its all there for you.. connect the engine harness while motor is on the floor.. get the car up and just lower it on the motor with cross member already bolted on to it via motor mounts.. tighten the bolts and you're done! its cake!

Rezlo
03-11-2007, 07:06 AM
Humm, i guess it taking me 10 minutes to drop it in solo with a fold up cherry picker always seemed to be easier...

jobestudios
03-11-2007, 04:02 PM
I can't think of a better way...
http://www.team-blend.net/jacksonphoto/swapliftin.jpg

wangan_cruiser
03-11-2007, 08:51 PM
i know for the fact that rb20 is lighter than the rb25....anyone knows how much does the rb20 than the rb25? would it affect the balance of s13 with an rb20 or rb25?

R33GTS-T
03-12-2007, 03:30 PM
Any one got SAFC II maf settings for a series II RB25? ive searched and am unable to find them. i just need the proper in and out settings. thanks.
you might want to work on those searching skills :tweak:

http://www.datsuns.com/red/accessories/S-AFC2Final.pdf

took all of 3 seconds lol

- Daniel

ECR33S14
03-12-2007, 03:59 PM
yeah i found that place but for some reason my computer wont pull anything else up but their home page even the link you sent me doesnt work.

Indolent
03-18-2007, 11:53 AM
rb26 swap
boost solenoid required? no right? seems like it's wired up to the chassis harness

Remil19
03-30-2007, 01:35 PM
Anyone can post RB25DET NEO ECU Pintout

The are in year 99 and after

ridesnowx4
04-26-2007, 05:15 PM
ive got R33 Series 2 RB25 ecu pinouts if theyre the same, cant seem to find the NEO pinouts, let me know if you need the Series 2 ones

hybrid_eg
04-27-2007, 02:39 AM
rb26 swap
boost solenoid required? no right? seems like it's wired up to the chassis harness

no its not required.. but it came with it just keep it and take the restrictor out of the vacuum line.. you'll be at 12psi.. but it will work without it as well.. if you want more boost you'll have to hook up a boost controller to the last bung on the intake mani in the rear... thats it..

Behind Horizon
04-28-2007, 01:33 AM
Hello guys,

i do need pictures of an RB25DET powered S13 with the original crossmember. I do need to know how far the RB25DET engine mounts are away from the original S13 crossmember. I hope someone of you can help me.

Greets

BH

drift freaq
04-28-2007, 01:57 AM
Anyone can post RB25DET NEO ECU Pintout

The are in year 99 and after

I have the factory FSM wiring schematics for the NEO. get a hold of me. I will be back in town next thurs.

Tenchuu
04-28-2007, 02:14 AM
just some fun facts:

flywheel MT bolt part number that you can pick up at local nissan dealership:
12315-42L11

also the flywheel is resurfaced by any local shop, just tell them that it should be done the same as a 300ZX NA (Z32 = 1991+)

and lastley the clutch and pressure plate is the same as a Z32 NA 300ZX


pretty common knowledge if you search, but now it is here too.


and another side note, if you have a lift and are taking off the cross member anyways, it may be good to go from the bottom up, but if you are like me and work in your garage, it is easy as shit to put in with a hoist. i had plenty of room dropping it in from the top.

jsut remember to take off the igniter chip, the brake vac line on the firewall, and have the car supported on fully extended jack stands. it is money.

Behind Horizon
05-02-2007, 12:07 PM
It was said that every KA24DE Koyo will work fine with the RB25DET, what is with the S14 SR20DET Koyo ?

Which Koyo is the best to buy for the S13 and RB25DET ?

S14 SR20DET looks like this:

http://www.frsport.com/images/detailed_images/Koyo_R020252_0021163466947455918c3cd152.jpg

The KA24DE Koyos have the inlets on the right side.

kouki_s14
05-02-2007, 03:33 PM
The reason KA radiators(not jut koyo) work with the RB is because the inlet and outlets match up on both motors.

SR's have it on the opposite side on the top

Any radiator and i do mean ANY radiator will work with ANY motor, all you have to do is connect the inlet and outlet to the respected locations somehow. Clear enough?

Behind Horizon
05-02-2007, 03:43 PM
The reason KA radiators(not jut koyo) work with the RB is because the inlet and outlets match up on both motors.

SR's have it on the opposite side on the top

Any radiator and i do mean ANY radiator will work with ANY motor, all you have to do is connect the inlet and outlet to the respected locations somehow. Clear enough?

I do actually have a V-Mount setup on my CA18DET, trust me i have knowledge regarding watercoolers and piping. But i do not have Knowledge regarding the RB25DET atm... :p

Behind Horizon
05-05-2007, 07:36 AM
Will this one work in a S13 with RB25det ? Or will the pipe hit the oil panel ?

http://www.frsport.com/images/detailed_images/Nismo_54480RSS30_4.jpg

s13coupedrfter
06-16-2007, 07:39 AM
Will this one work in a S13 with RB25det ? Or will the pipe hit the oil panel ?

http://www.frsport.com/images/detailed_images/Nismo_54480RSS30_4.jpg

I asked driftfreak and he said it will work without any clearance issues. I'm going to be running the same set-up s13 w/rb25 and nismo PB. Hope this helps...Thanx driftfreak

victorw210
06-27-2007, 05:14 PM
how much have u guys spent on just the rb25 or rb26 swap total

hybrid_eg
06-27-2007, 05:58 PM
to do it right, lots and lots..

250sx
07-03-2007, 02:40 PM
anybody know the torque specs to the bottom end on the rb25det like rods and mains i got my crank collared and know i need to put it back together

GoodOl'S13
07-14-2007, 04:47 PM
What is the best intake manifold to use on a rb26?

hybrid_eg
07-14-2007, 04:59 PM
What is the best intake manifold to use on a rb26?

yo! tks for the carfax again, i may have couple more to run by beg of Aug, i'll let you know.. as for the manifold, stock RB26 will do just fine.. depends really on what your goals are for the motor..to run this motor in a 240 chassis, you will need filters, dp, exhaust.. if the motor is out my suggestion is replace all maintenance items first.. water pump, oil pump, tbelt, get new plugs.. (7's as i'm sure you will up the boost) get a set of injectors, some n1's turbo's, and PFC, you'll be easily in some good 400's.. it will be reliable w/good power and in my opinion more then enough power.. if you have more $$ to fork out, look into new garret 2805's (i think), bolt right on and that should get you close to 500. Hope this helps..

scarecrow27
07-14-2007, 08:11 PM
the rb25 does not require firewall mod but the 26 does to fit the starter of the 26 u need to dent the firewall a bit not much though

scarecrow27
07-14-2007, 08:14 PM
What is the best intake manifold to use on a rb26?


the best one....

well if u got the dough to fork out i'd suggest the top secret custom made one it comes with an upgraded throttle body as well but its over 3k...

http://www.topsecretjpn.com/engine.shtml

bardabe
07-15-2007, 09:37 AM
What is the best intake manifold to use on a rb26?

allot of people on the Skylines Australia forums love the Veilside single tb one. but others that don;t want insanely 700HP cars, just get the Greddy plenum and keep the ITB's (that fixes the starvation to cylinder 6)

Chemical Whore
07-31-2007, 01:43 PM
anyone have the spark plug part numbers for the RBDET25 and also what coil packs work?

bardabe
08-05-2007, 09:01 AM
coilpacks from cylinder 1 and 2 off the Q45 works, spark plugs. are the same as TT Z32

Behind Horizon
08-14-2007, 01:55 PM
Hello guys,

anyone experienced problems with top mounted tubular manifolds hitting the handlebar of the steering rack that goes to the steering wheel on our LHD S13's ?

Full-Lock
08-16-2007, 05:57 PM
i may have missed it since i skimmed through the thread pretty fast, but what oil filter should be used on the RB26? also what weight oil is suggested?

i had what i've been using all written down but i cant find my notepad :(

iirc it was 10w40...

anyone?

thanks

bardabe
08-29-2007, 09:40 PM
i may have missed it since i skimmed through the thread pretty fast, but what oil filter should be used on the RB26? also what weight oil is suggested?

i had what i've been using all written down but i cant find my notepad :(

iirc it was 10w40...

anyone?

thanks

same one off the SR20DET, same thins as the B13 Sentra. I use mobil 1 (mobil part number M1-103) as far as oil grade both me and my friend are using 5W-30 that;s what the cap says

Grenade180sx
09-16-2007, 02:56 AM
The following is intended for any car sporting the rb20det.

Vehicle model: hcr32 and hnr32
Engine type: rb20det
Displacement (cc): 1998
Combustion chamber: pent-roof type
Valve arrangement : DOHC belt drive
Bore x stroke mm: 78.0 x 69.7
Compression ratio : 8.5
Compression pressure: (kg / cm2) / (rpm) 12.0 / 300
Maximun output (net) (ps / rpm): 215 / 6400
Maximun torque (net) (kg-m / rpm): 27.0 / 3200
Fuel consumption ratio (g / GS.h) / (rpm): 215 / 2400
Dimensions m/t (l / w / h) (mm): 845x660x685
Dimensions a/t (l / w / h) (mm): 830x660x685
Idle speed (rpm): 800
Ignition timing a/t (BTDCdegrees / rpm): 15 / 650
Ignition timing m/t (BTDCdegrees / rpm): 20 / 650
Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Valve clearance cold (mm) intake: 0.45 +/- 0.003
Valve clearance cold (mm) exhaust: 0.38 +/- 0.003
Throttle chamber bolts torque setting (kg-m) first stage: 0.9 - 1.1
Throttle chamber bolts torque setting (kg-m) second stage: 1.8 - 2.2
Flywheel run-out limit (mm): 0.10
Con rod nut tightening stage 1 (kg-m): 2.3 - 2.9
Con rod nut tightening stage 2(kg-m): 3.9 - 4.5

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

rb20det Engine variations:

The rb20det came in two different forms, the earlier red top with the NICS system and the newer silver top version with the ECCS system. The red top is the earlier version of the rb20det and came as standard with the r31 skyline, z32 fairlady and the nissan laurel, whilst the r32 skylines and nissan cefiro came with the silver top version.

Just to confuse you more there were a few red top rb20dets with the eccs system, heres some engine power outputs.

RB20DET red top
1986-1987: 178bhp (NICS version)
1988-1989: 190bhp (ECCS version)
RB20DET silver top
1989 onwards: 215bhp

-------------------------------------------------

Resetting the rb20det ECU:

You can reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and then pressing the brake pedal in for a minute or so, doing this tries to light up the brake lights and removes all of the voltage from the ecu, then connect it back up and go for a drive. Make sure the front wheels are straight when you do this or else the hicass can get a bit screwed up because it thinks the wheels are turning slightly.

The ECU has the mapping for the fuelling this wont change but the timing and airflow is monitored all of the time and adjusted according to conditions if you have been using low octane fuel or carried out recent mods then you'll benifit from the ECU reset as it relearns the optimum settings and changes the timing in very large increments initially then as it gets closer to being right it narrows the adjustments down.

The ignition timing is advanced until knock is detected and then pulled back in narrowing swings above and below ideal until it has narrowed it down to being ok. Once settled it almost stops learning and will use tiny adjustments each time you go out and take a lot longer to get to its ideal each time.

Part numbers for of r32 gts-t:

*Warning, this part list is in nowehere complete*

Water Pump: 21010-21U25
Thermostat: 21200-42L05
coil Packs: 22433 60u02 mcp-300124
Oil Filter Genuine Nissan: 15208-H8911
Oil Filter Ryco: Z145A
Oil Filter Valvoline: R9
Oil Capacity: 4.6L with filter (7.5w 30 is recommended)
Coolant Capacity: 9L
Manual Gearbox: 2L (80w 90)
P/s Fluid capacity, non-hicas: 1.8L
Sump washer 11026-01M02
Fuel filter 16400-53J10
Rear diff oil 1.5L
Alternator belt 11720-24U00
Cam belt 13028-20P10
PAS belt 11950-04U00
NGK standard plugs PFR5A-11 1.1mm gapped
NGK Iridium plugs T7341T-8 0.8mm gapped
Trust-Greddy Iridium plugs IT08 0.8mm gapped

Air Flow Meter 22680-02U00

GEARZ
09-23-2007, 01:18 PM
does anyone have specs like that for the RB25? also looking for max boost on stock turbo and max boost on stock motor

Adrian gt
09-28-2007, 01:39 AM
hahaha ya and I was referring to ghetto looking. hahhahha the setup does not look ghetto on my s13 hahhahhaha.
I threw in the Performance part just to rib you. hahhahahha
Also all jokes aside. With the S13, there is not enough clearance to run dual pullers, especially if your running air. There is, also limited room to attempt a dual pusher setup on the front side. Hence the push pull setup.
The s14 has a much larger front area, allowing for dual pushers.

P.S. give me a call ken I got a plug I need to send to you.
with the radiator moved forward there is plenty of room for dual pullers

Full-Lock
10-02-2007, 08:13 PM
i want to hear straight through exhaust on rb26

ie. dart izumi
buddy club spec II
greddy DD
custom..just no rear muffler

Yum-Yum
10-04-2007, 01:48 PM
anyone know if the mckinny driveshaft (rb25/s13) will work with the syko mount kit for my NEO rb25 s13 or do i neeed to buy a syko ds?

timlush
10-05-2007, 04:15 AM
anyone know if the mckinny driveshaft (rb25/s13) will work with the syko mount kit for my NEO rb25 s13 or do i neeed to buy a syko ds?

How do you like the Syko mounts?

hybrid_eg
10-05-2007, 12:56 PM
buy everything from SYKO,

"trust me" when i say this.. products + service + support, and everything related to SYKO can only be classified as "TOP NOTCH"

There is no need for you to think twice, just get it.

timlush
10-05-2007, 05:10 PM
I was planning on getting my mounts and wiring service from them. Guess I need to get an engine first, haha.

I'm looking for a r33 front clip.

fun2drive95
10-08-2007, 12:38 PM
not sure if its been asked but will an r33 clutch and or brake pedal fit in my s14? thanks

s13coupedrfter
10-14-2007, 11:01 AM
buy everything from SYKO,

"trust me" when i say this.. products + service + support, and everything related to SYKO can only be classified as "TOP NOTCH"

There is no need for you to think twice, just get it.

I can vouch for that statement, syko performance service + products are the very best!!!

Wanna see what I'm talking about...
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1528689#post1528689

Tenchuu
10-23-2007, 06:01 PM
A FYI since i have gotten ask this a few times before. RB25 S14 install price, about $3700
**edit forgot that i bought the new radiator later, so that brings up the total to $4100**

motor
trans
ECU and wiring harness
timing belt
all pulley belts
N1 water pump
Nismo thermostat
Griffen radiator
FAL dual 12" pushers
Thermostat to run the fans
godspeed FMIC
2mm aluminum pipe and couplers to fab up piping
syko mounts
Syko wiring
syko downpipe
resonated test pipe
drive shaft shop drive shaft (they are cheaper now)
battery relocation box and wiring
power distribution block
clutch and brake pedal
clutch MC, steel braided hardline
New Z32 clutch for RB trans
new throw out bearing
flywheel resurface
new hoses for the radiator ($60)
Fuel pump
nismo FPR
Jack stands
Big Pulley puller to pull off the main pulley
long 6 point 14mm wretch and lock-tite for the drive shaft bolts
All new fluids
bunch of jig saw blades
angle grinder that broke
3" hole saw bit
corded drill
steel strips that i fabbed brackets out of.

so that is what i got with the money. compare that to a comperabily maintained SR20 and you can wee why i say that the SR20 is a rip off for the price it sells now a days.

s13coupedrfter
10-25-2007, 11:14 AM
rb's create alot of blow by. I installed a circuit sports catch can to remedy this problem but I didn't reinstall the restrictor plug in the intake line. My catch can overflowed and I had spy-hunter smoke screen coming out the tail pipe. The restrictor plug is a cylinder shape that fits in the intake line which is about .5-.75" long has a diameter of .5-.75" and has a 1/8" hole in the center. This reduces the vacume pulled from the valve cover into the compressor. My buddy is machining a new one for me and will be installed tomorrow. After there should be no more spy-hunter.

If you want to know where exactly the plug is just feel for a hard bump in the flex line going from the exh. side valve cover to your intake pipe. Your not going to push that thing out so you will need a razor blade to cut it out.

I hope my lesson helps others from my mistake, I thought my turbo was done. Sorry for the repost but this is the best place for this info.

KA-Turbo?
10-26-2007, 11:28 PM
A FYI since i have gotten ask this a few times before. RB25 S14 install price, about $3700

motor
trans
ECU and wiring harness
timing belt
all pulley belts
N1 water pump
Nismo thermostat
Griffen radiator
FAL dual 12" pushers
Thermostat to run the fans
godspeed FMIC
2mm aluminum pipe and couplers to fab up piping
syko mounts
Syko wiring
syko downpipe
resonated test pipe
drive shaft shop drive shaft (they are cheaper now)
battery relocation box and wiring
power distribution block
clutch and brake pedal
clutch MC, steel braided hardline
New Z32 clutch for RB trans
new throw out bearing
flywheel resurface
new hoses for the radiator ($60)
Fuel pump
nismo FPR
Jack stands
Big Pulley puller to pull off the main pulley
long 6 point 14mm wretch and lock-tite for the drive shaft bolts
All new fluids
bunch of jig saw blades
angle grinder that broke
3" hole saw bit
corded drill
steel strips that i fabbed brackets out of.

so that is what i got with the money. compare that to a comperabily maintained SR20 and you can wee why i say that the SR20 is a rip off for the price it sells now a days.


damn 3700?? my friend spent 3k on his rb25 front clip alone. guess he got ripped heh

timlush
10-27-2007, 09:00 AM
I think he meant $3700 is just the labor.

KA-Turbo?
10-27-2007, 04:10 PM
oh, alright then

Tenchuu
11-02-2007, 10:44 AM
That was turn key, i added on the radiator to the total price, i forgot to add in the $$$ for that one, but i got all the stuff last fall when a lot of places were working on getting rid of their inventory. and had a couple of hook ups that helped shave some cash off the price. needless to say i did all the work myself plumbing and all. Also i spend months researching before the first time i did this so i knew the right places to go.

gt35built
11-04-2007, 01:25 PM
So what would be a price range for a rb25 swapped into a s14 from a shop that does quality work?

s13coupedrfter
11-05-2007, 12:43 AM
Dude, this question has been answered already. People who ask this question are not serious about the swap in general anyway. If you do your homework and make the calls you won't have to ask.

imotion s14
11-06-2007, 07:22 PM
anyone know the main/rod bearing clearance/tolerance for the Rb25?

lxmobxl
11-19-2007, 12:46 AM
does anyone know if the rb25 neo pistons will fit in a regular rb25det?

KA-Turbo?
11-19-2007, 11:37 PM
does anyone know if the rb25 neo pistons will fit in a regular rb25det?

probably, same bore and stroke.....dont see why not

koshile
12-12-2007, 12:14 AM
My friend is doing a 5 sp conversion on his Automatic RB25. Iam looking for a pilot bearing for a RB25DET block.

Does anyone know if it is the same Nissan part number as a 300zx?

I was hoping i could just run down to the dealer ship and just pick one up instead of waiting a week for Phase2.

hinds90
12-19-2007, 06:13 PM
Whats up guys just wanted to know what the parts avaliability (can I cross reference most of the oem parts like the sr) is for the rb25. I can get a rb for $150 more than an sr, just weighing my options. Only thing that is really making me lean towards the sr is finding parts.


Also is their any particular year I should get I read something about the crank journals on the older models gave out at 300 hp.

Tenchuu
12-19-2007, 06:56 PM
www.racebread.com check under their USDM parts interface section. too many cross referenced parts to list in one post.

s13coupedrfter
12-31-2007, 06:25 PM
Here's a helpful s13/ka24 - r33/rb25det wiring conversion I found. Just click "proceed".
http://racebread.com/old/Documents/harness.swf

ANVIL
02-05-2008, 02:15 PM
rb25 valves are the same as vg30dett valves.

VG30DETT and VG30DE valves are the same. as well as cams, timing belt, thermostat, Head and Head gasket.

and some where else I read that z32 coilpacks work on rb25's? (if they do its not bolt on)

im 99% sure those are false

MODS - this thread could really use some cleaning up. Maybe deleted and started over with all FACTS instead of people arguing and people's assumtions.

bardabe
02-05-2008, 11:50 PM
and some where else I read that z32 coilpacks work on rb25's? (if they do its not bolt on)

im 99% sure those are false

MODS - this thread could really use some cleaning up. Maybe deleted and started over with all FACTS instead of people arguing and people's assumtions.

Z32 coilpacks aren't a bolt on to any RB, however word of mouth is Q45's work i have personally not tried it so no assurance on that but i KNOW Z32 wudn't work. im looking at one right now.

the VG30 and VG30DETT are practically the same engines with the following 2 exceptions:

the VG30DETT has Oil squirters, Forged Pistons, taped oil lines, and oil return bungs on the oil pan, and 370cc injectors.

the VG30DE has non of the above. but ha sa 10:1 compression ratio with 270cc injectors. everything else on these motors is pretty much the same / identical.

ANVIL
02-07-2008, 12:11 AM
when I was in the market for rb25 valves, I measured both with an micrometer and they were different.

ECR33S14
02-07-2008, 12:18 AM
Early model Q45 coil packs will work on a series 1 RB25 but you have to change the"boot" (i guess thats what youd call it?). the series 2 shares the same coil packs as the RB26 and nothing else.

kouki_s14
02-07-2008, 12:33 AM
Early model Q45 coil packs will work on a series 1 RB25 but you have to change the"boot" (i guess thats what youd call it?). the series 2 shares the same coil packs as the RB26 and nothing else.

Series 2 shares coil packs with the R34 RB26 ONLY

RB25DET Series 2 and R34 RB26DETT have ignitors built into the coilpacks.

RB25DET Series 1 and R33/R32 RB26DETT have external ignitors.

lost_generation
02-18-2008, 05:39 PM
quick question, if i were to buy a rb20det front cut, could i use all the manual parts to convert a sohc auto to a 5 speed, or do i have to find usdm parts(expl the driveshafts) i'm just not sure if the master cyl, pedals and shit would work

240love
02-18-2008, 05:40 PM
i doubt they will work....

kouki_s14
02-18-2008, 05:41 PM
quick question, if i were to buy a rb20det front cut, could i use all the manual parts to convert a sohc auto to a 5 speed, or do i have to find usdm parts(expl the driveshafts) i'm just not sure if the master cyl, pedals and shit would work


RB stuff wont work

Just buy new stuff, i tried to used junkyard parts, they all eventually failed so i bought all new stuff and it has been great since.

racer98
02-18-2008, 05:51 PM
Question: isnt thre a way use the Getrag 6-speed set from the R34 GTR.

Meaning , use the Rb25det trasmission casing and use the 6-speed box and bolt it up to the Rb25 casing ? ............. Eliminating the awd componet on the back of the R34 GTR box ?

joshls2
02-19-2008, 10:46 AM
I'm a noob(first post) and i have a question as well. can u mate an s14 or s15 SR20 motor with a KAauto' tranny?

if so, what sort of replacment parts must i have like(replacing the ECU or fule pump) to make it all work.

racer98
02-19-2008, 11:42 AM
I'm a noob(first post) and i have a question as well. can u mate an s14 or s15 SR20 motor with a KAauto' tranny?

if so, what sort of replacment parts must i have like(replacing the ECU or fule pump) to make it all work.


Um, what thread is this ? its related to RB motors and parts not SR's GTFO.

joshls2
02-19-2008, 01:06 PM
Well actually thats what i wanted to knowin the firstplace, but i asked the wrong question, sorry.. I heard some where that the bell housing of the RB25 matches that of the z32 tranny. or was it just the clutch?..hmmm.

but yah, are you able to mate a RB25 to a 300zx auto-tranny? thanx.

racer98
02-19-2008, 01:53 PM
Well actually thats what i wanted to knowin the firstplace, but i asked the wrong question, sorry.. I heard some where that the bell housing of the RB25 matches that of the z32 tranny. or was it just the clutch?..hmmm.

but yah, are you able to mate a RB25 to a 300zx auto-tranny? thanx.

Huh?, you're in the wrong section.

joshls2
02-19-2008, 02:20 PM
''Huh?" no im not. dose any one else know, please.

racer98
02-19-2008, 02:29 PM
''Huh?" no im not. dose any one else know, please.

each year of auto are diffferent, you will have to try each one for your own and figure it out. good luck.

96Turbo
02-19-2008, 02:33 PM
Well actually thats what i wanted to knowin the firstplace, but i asked the wrong question, sorry.. I heard some where that the bell housing of the RB25 matches that of the z32 tranny. or was it just the clutch?..hmmm.

but yah, are you able to mate a RB25 to a 300zx auto-tranny? thanx.
Just the clutch as far as i know

joshls2
02-19-2008, 02:36 PM
well what about mated with a 240 auto? reson why i'm asking is because i'm ready to get a rb25 but i want it to be auto. (faster shifting)

deep in silvia
02-24-2008, 01:48 PM
What other alternator are combatable on the series I rb25det?

racer98
02-24-2008, 01:53 PM
well what about mated with a 240 auto? reson why i'm asking is because i'm ready to get a rb25 but i want it to be auto. (faster shifting)

might want to play with gear ratio charts before you start taking something apart.

racer98
02-24-2008, 01:54 PM
What other alternator are combatable on the series I rb25det?

I have one but can you post a photo of yours, this is a completet long shot.

93 KA24 but swap the pulley.

racer98
02-24-2008, 01:57 PM
What would be intresting to do with the R34 GTR transmission. (Getrag 6)

Unbolt te AWD transfercase and use the bell & housing case on a Rb25 box for a 6speed 2wd set up.

or figure out a cost effective sequential 6-speed box. Cost effective under $10K.

deep in silvia
02-24-2008, 03:52 PM
What other alternator are combatable on the series I rb25det?

cashed240
02-27-2008, 05:06 PM
i posted in the tech section as well but i really need help, rb20 in a coupe and floods out and revs super slow til bout 2500 then back down, smells like raw fuel, i am using a z32 maf because thats all i had and OSAKA didnt send one w the swap, now i realize that its not right for the ecu but i swapped w a ka sohc maf and ther is no change at all(di that just to see if it would make any difference) as a matter of fact it runs the same w the maf unplugged so i am confused and dont know where to look. it idles fine once it starts just the other issues. i have heard that the temp sensor might be bad?????? any ideas would be greatly appreciated. also do i need to ck coils and how?

racer98
02-27-2008, 05:13 PM
i posted in the tech section as well but i really need help, rb20 in a coupe and floods out and revs super slow til bout 2500 then back down, smells like raw fuel, i am using a z32 maf because thats all i had and OSAKA didnt send one w the swap, now i realize that its not right for the ecu but i swapped w a ka sohc maf and ther is no change at all(di that just to see if it would make any difference) as a matter of fact it runs the same w the maf unplugged so i am confused and dont know where to look. it idles fine once it starts just the other issues. i have heard that the temp sensor might be bad?????? any ideas would be greatly appreciated. also do i need to ck coils and how?

you are going to have to go over every thing with an ohms tester, would have been better if they would stop doing this chicken shit. I dont like to read stuff like this. Really bothers me.


you have a orange lable Maf and you need the green lable one that is for the Rb20DET, now you are going to have to check

-IAC
-Injectors.
-essentially rip a part the whole electrical system.
-also check your ecu and so on

racer98
02-27-2008, 05:14 PM
What other alternator are combatable on the series I rb25det?

did you try one ? from the KA and swap out the pulley ?

Tenchuu
02-27-2008, 05:21 PM
*****RB25DET SPARK PLUG INFO*****

most people suggest the BKR5E-11 re-gapped to .8mm. the -11 with factory gap runs like shit.

the BKR5E is gapped at .8mm already, and therefore is a drop in replacement

For iridium (and i highly suggest it, just switched mine over to these, go with a BKR5EIX. since you can't re gap iridium, that one is also gapped .8, where the BKR5EIX-11 that most people suggest is too big of gap once again.


i hope this helps weed out some false info i have found on the web, i found all this out by having changed my spark plugs a total of 11 times over the last 4 months seeing who was correct on heat range and gaps. and i can say that the iridium, 5 HR .8mm gap ones are noticeably better.

Ptclaus98
02-27-2008, 08:26 PM
I was just wondering, where'd the FAQ go?

racer20
02-28-2008, 02:10 PM
So which one is hard to swap an rb25 or the rb26. I am thinking of doing this swap down the road.

racer98
02-28-2008, 02:40 PM
So which one is hard to swap an rb25 or the rb26. I am thinking of doing this swap down the road.

ASK your self these important questions.

1)How much money do I have to do this swap ?

2)Who will do the install ?
a-Shop.
b-You.

3)When I do buy a motor, what will be my goals with it?
a-Show.
b-Race.
c-Display.
d-Daily driver with a/c.

4) Will I be making a life changing choice with in the time period I plan to buy this RB motor packge ?

5) If I make a choice of buying the motor and I have to sell it all due to finanaces issues, how much money should I have on the side for this project?

6) How much in parts $ should I have on the side if I buy a builder RB motor.

7) What parts need to be changed out before installing an RB into my car

8) Who will do the intercooler piping.

9) Who will do the wiring

Figure a budget of $12K for the swap to be done properly for an RB26DETT swap,

Do not buy the mount kits. make your own and in the process of the swap corner balance the car while performing the swap. Will return the best results. This also goes the same for the oil pan as well.

racer98
02-28-2008, 02:41 PM
btw; FD3S RX7 injectors are top feed (850cc) & (550cc) Stock
:). Dont know if any one has tried this ????

Behind Horizon
03-06-2008, 01:18 PM
Hello guys,

what kind of transmission mount member do i need for the S13 RB25DET Syko Performance kit ? Will the stock KA24DE fit or do i need a R33 GTS-t one ?

Thanks in advance.

kouki_s14
03-07-2008, 01:18 AM
Hello guys,

what kind of transmission mount member do i need for the S13 RB25DET Syko Performance kit ? Will the stock KA24DE fit or do i need a R33 GTS-t one ?

Thanks in advance.

either use the R33 GTS-T one or an AUTOMATIC KA transmission crossmember, they are both the same. Manual KA ones do not fit properly

bloodangels13
03-12-2008, 06:58 PM
i was thinking of starting a RB25 project this winter and was wanting to do custom twin turbo set up... do aftermarket rb26 twin t28 style eghaust manifolds work on a rb25? i havent paid enough attention to the eghoust stud layout.. also what do you guys think about running twin gt28r s15 turbos on the rb25 with greddy intake mani q45 throttle body , mild cams , upgraded injectors and power fc?

Mi Beardo es Loco
03-12-2008, 10:44 PM
i was thinking of starting a RB25 project this winter and was wanting to do custom twin turbo set up... do aftermarket rb26 twin t28 style eghaust manifolds work on a rb25? i havent paid enough attention to the eghoust stud layout.. also what do you guys think about running twin gt28r s15 turbos on the rb25 with greddy intake mani q45 throttle body , mild cams , upgraded injectors and power fc?

Sounds good but also sounds costly. Pretty much sounds like a 10k project motor.

I really don't know much about rb's either and a friend of mine just got a great deal on an rb20 and was telling me that he's going twin also on that. I told him I didn't think the rb26 exhaust manifolds bolted up. After reading a little up on them a few things bolt up and are interchangeable but how about the exhaust manifold between the 20 and 26?

bloodangels13
03-13-2008, 11:24 AM
first a buddy of mine is a manager at a engine import shop so the RB motorset with trans will be at s very good price, also I can get some of the parts ill need while im in thialand this summer for cheap... that and my best friend works at a local Nissan dealer so all oem parts are employee cost..(get jdm parts thru nissan motorsports hotline) plus he can get me two new gt28r turbos for a sweet deal from nissan

GoodOl'S13
03-14-2008, 12:48 AM
Where can i find intercooler piping for a S13 rb25 w/ Greddy IM?

+rep for help :)

Mi Beardo es Loco
03-14-2008, 10:32 AM
Where can i find intercooler piping for a S13 rb25 w/ Greddy IM?

+rep for help :)

in a fabricators shop. Don't think anyone makes them for production.

LloydXmas
03-15-2008, 12:51 AM
alright thinking about ditching the ole' sr and going 26 with my s13, what places have good prices and good quality rb26 motors?