Removing Valve Cover

[Powerzen2002]

Hey.  I know I have asked this questoin before.  But Im ready to go and remove my valve cover either tomorrow or sunday.

I was just wondering .. besides removing the bolts, what should I do, or remove, or maybe a small run down that may help me quickly and painlessly fix the time'ing chain guide.  

I have never took off the cover yet, So what would be the procedure if any.

Also, would you guys recommend removing the Chain Guide and not replacing it?  It is about 100 bucks.  Is it worth replacing?  Do they make a metal one that wont break again?

Thank you all for the previous posts.

[teampulse]

well first the chain guide you are taking off IS metal so there is no need to replace it really. i took mine off and everything is fine. so here it goes, people can correct me if i am wrong:

- take out the spark plug wires from the valve cover.
- pull off the one tube on the left front corner that plugs into the valve cover.
- unscrew all the bolts, and there are three on the very back by the firewall, so dont miss those.
- remove the valve cover and you can leave the gasket or take it off, either way doesnt matter, and put the valve cover on some newspaper or something.
- the chain giud is right there on top in the very front, unscrew the 2 screws and remove it.
- put the 2 screws back in where you took them out, make sure you do this becasue some people said the car wouldnt start without them in there.
- polish/paint and or clean the valve cover <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>
- put the valve cover gasket backon if you removed it, then put the valve cover back on, make sure they line up.
- put all the bolts and screws back in that hold the valve cover.
- plug the tube back onto the valve cover.
- plug the wires back in

and you should be set to go from there. if there is anything else someone please add it, but if i remember correctly that is how i did it. takes about 30 minutes or so. good luck <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

[prInce]

wow, that's a lot of work. &nbsp;removing the vavle cover on an SOHC is extremely easy and at most takes about 5 minutes <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

[burgy240]

It should be less than 30 minutes. &nbsp;I practiced yesterday on the Ka we took out during the Sr swap. &nbsp;It really is that simple. &nbsp;Just unscrew all the bolts and remove the plugs and the one hose. &nbsp;That is it!!

[HaLo]

when you open the valve cover, don't you have to replace the gasket?

[sykikchimp]

No, there is no reason to replace the gasket. &nbsp;Just clean the surface it was connected to, and put some fresh RTV in the Semi-circles before putting it back together.

Also there is a specific order to removal/tightening of the bolts. &nbsp;I will post it later tonight when I get home to my trusty FSM. &nbsp;also if you have a torque wrench (good investment for Anyone) torque the bolts down to 12-14 lbs. &nbsp;Becarefull. &nbsp;Alluminum heads with striped bolt holes suck.

[prInce]

yeah, it is extremely important that you use a torque wrench.. trust me! i stripped the aluminum head and it caused a looooooot of trouble.

get some gasket sealant to spray on when puttin the vavle cover back on, no need for a new gasket.

[9591]

1) Replace the gasket if it feels kinda hard. Sorry, I can't think of a way to explain how hard is too hard.

2) It's a valve cover, folks, which isn't real critical. You don't need a torque wrench, just some common sense. Anything that has a fat gasket (valve cover, oil pan, AT pan) shouldn't be cranked down as tight as you can possibly get it, because that'll just screw up the gasket, or worse, strip the threads. Just snug 'em down. If it leaks, snug 'em down a bit more. You'll soon get the hang of it.

3) It's a valve cover, folks, ..... bolt-tightening sequence really isn't going to matter.

[s14vaxlr8]

after removing the timing chain guide, i didnt put the bolts back in and it ran fine <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/eh.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':eh:'>

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (9591 @ April 26 2002,06:37)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">1) Replace the gasket if it feels kinda hard. Sorry, I can't think of a way to explain how hard is too hard.

2) It's a valve cover, folks, which isn't real critical. You don't need a torque wrench, just some common sense. Anything that has a fat gasket (valve cover, oil pan, AT pan) shouldn't be cranked down as tight as you can possibly get it, because that'll just screw up the gasket, or worse, strip the threads. Just snug 'em down. If it leaks, snug 'em down a bit more. You'll soon get the hang of it.

3) It's a valve cover, folks, ..... bolt-tightening sequence really isn't going to matter.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I know it's not that critical, but when you've never done it before it's important to know the details so that at least your aware of them. &nbsp;And tightening sequence does matter to an extent because it allows for a more even seal. &nbsp;I give out torque numbers b/c most guys that are learning haven't ever turned a wrench and don't really know what "Snug'em" means.

[boosteds14]

make sure that there is no small animals or screws and bolts floating around the valvetrain---just kidding
its friday

<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>

[DrDubbleB]

Bolt tightening pattern does matter, but you don't really have to follow the FSM. &nbsp;What you basically do is do one corner first (say the front right one), and then you do the opposite bolt on the other side next (which in this example would be the back left one). &nbsp;Stick to that and you'll be fine (it's usually that kind of pattern when tightening anything btw).

[9591]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ April 26 2002,10:38)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I know it's not that critical, but when you've never done it before it's important to know the details so that at least your aware of them. And tightening sequence does matter to an extent because it allows for a more even seal. I give out torque numbers b/c most guys that are learning haven't ever turned a wrench and don't really know what "Snug'em" means.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Fair enough <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

[9591]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (DrDubbleB @ April 26 2002,1:56)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Bolt tightening pattern does matter, but you don't really have to follow the FSM. What you basically do is do one corner first (say the front right one), and then you do the opposite bolt on the other side next (which in this example would be the back left one). Stick to that and you'll be fine (it's usually that kind of pattern when tightening anything btw).</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Well, the only time I ever pay strict attention to sequence is when working with head bolts, and then the sequence is as you say, but working from the center out to the corners. With valve covers and oilpans, I sorta use the same sequence, but I don't break out the FSM to make sure I get it exactly right. And there ya go. I've replaced a lot of VCs and OPs with my "incorrect" sequences, and yet they still don't seem to leak. My professional judgement is that the sequence just doesn't matter. Obviously, you and others disagree with me, and that's cool.

But, BTW, doing it your way seems to me to be the worst possible way, if it were to actually make a difference. If the cover is buckled or bent or warped, tightening the corners first would make it less likely that it would straighten out and make a good seal. To each his own, though.