PDA

View Full Version : help, not starting.


fungus
04-07-2002, 05:59 PM
being annoyed at my stock govenor made me look into a way to bypass it so i headed over to 240sx.org's FAQs and found this.

>After reading the first solution I looked into finding a simpler solution. Best of all, everything can be done at the computer. My car is a 89 with a 96 ka24de, but all the wiring and computer is 92. On my computer, there is a yellow wire with green stripe, 8th one over from right on harness. This is the vehicle speed sensor signal. Cut that wire. That is it. If you have a California car I think it will trigger a code, but for the rest of us, it is an easy trick. Your speedometer will still work because the signal comes from the tranny, goes to the gauges, THEN feeds the computer. I had to find a solution because my car comes very close to the speed limiter at the end of the 1/4. If anyone can beat the revlimiter let me know. I'm working on it.

{scroll for picture}

After cutting what i thought was the correct wire (inside the engine bay, near the fuses) i realized that i hadn't cut the ecu wire and instead soemthing else. [car working fine]

Then i opened the kick panel and snipped the yellow wire with a green stripe on the right side. I took the car for a spin and noticed that my HICAS light was on and that my tach was not working. Got home, reattatched the wire. [car working fine]

Thinking maybe the right side wire i cut could have been the opposite wire, I cut the other yellow wire with a green stripe and nothing. [car doesn't start, smell of fuel indicating ignition problem?]

I undid the previous yellow/green wire, left the key in ACC and left the battery unplugged for a few minutes. [car starts, HICAS light still on, check engine light on] :!:

-From this i made the decision that the first ecu wire i cut was the Vehicle Speed Sensor (DTC 14). I also remembered that HICAS kicks in @ speeds above 50mph and the DTC14 would be neccesary for HICAS to function.-

Now I just want things back to normal, so i tried re-wiring everything as it was and doing the same trick with the battery and i've got nothing. [car won't start]

Help is appreciated! This is my daily driver. - dp

http://www.designerarea.com/~fungus/help.jpg

sil80
04-07-2002, 07:29 PM
Did you check all your fuses?

fungus
04-07-2002, 08:07 PM
update: I just got the car started but both my HICAS and check engine lights were on, so i figured i had poorly wired the Vehicle Speed Sensor (DTC 14). When i re-wired DTC 14 i left the battery off again, gave it a few minutes, tried to start the car and got nothing.

sil80: checked both the engine bay and drivers side fuse boxes and came up with nothing bad. i even swapped some around in the engine bay and had the same results.

<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cry.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':cry:'> help please.

gh6o6
04-07-2002, 08:13 PM
reset the ecu
and leaving the battery off does nothing but stop the wiring from possibly shorting when splicing

fungus
04-07-2002, 09:13 PM
Nevermind, i'm going to work on it tommorow morning. Thanks for your help.

fungus
04-08-2002, 01:30 AM
okay well got the ecu out and reset it according to the faq on 240sx.org and i came up with the following codes:

#11 EC-88 Camshaft Position Sensor
#12 EC-92 Mass Air Flow Sensor
#14 EC-101 Vehicle Speed Sensor
#21 EC-105 Ignition Signal Primary
#34 EC-130 Knock Sensor
#35 EC-133 EGR Temp Sensor
#41 EC-140 Intake Air Temp Sensor
#43 EC-145 Throttle Position Sensor

take in account that my car was running perfectly before i ignorantly started snipping wires (no check engine light). i need help getting this stuff back together. i know for a fact i cut #14, but now i'm wondering if each copper wire within the yellow/green wire carried some kind of signal. that doesn't seem to make much sense, but god damn, i wan't my car working again. I will note that when DTC 14 is disconnected my tach doesn't work, check light comes on and hicas light comes on. For now i'm more concerend about getting around that using HICAS.

so i'm stuck and i detatched the two cut wires and plan on patching them up properly tommorow morning. Also i'm starting to think that the other yellow/green wire i cut was
#31 EC-115 ECM. Which would explain the lack of check engine light blinking when it is disconnected.

help? :!:

fungus
04-08-2002, 11:51 AM
bump.

Powerzen2002
04-08-2002, 07:04 PM
Something is REALLY odd about that. &nbsp;I wonder, is there a memory fuse under the hood where the fuel pump fuse is... in the fuse box. &nbsp;Cause, if there is... it maybe possible to just pull the fuse, start the car up. &nbsp;Shut it off, put the fuse back in and should reset any previously stored values. &nbsp;Because it really sounds like your ecu isnt resetting &nbsp;properly.