Rear Z32 ebrake guys.

[Ritz S14]

How high do you have to lift the parking brake for it to completely lock? Mines about 20 clicks to get it uber tight to lock the rear wheels.

Yours?

[nlzmo400r]

your cable may be too long. That sounds like you're lifting it awfully high to get it to engage.

[rrobe99999]

You should be able to get it back to stock by using the adjustment on the handle. If you adjust it all the way out before you splice the cables, you have plenty of room to tighten it up and get out the slack. OT: I want to throw in some other Ebrake ideas: 1.) Make a bracket to mount the 240SX caliper in addition to the Z32 caliper and use that just for ebrake. 2.) Add a trunk pop solenoid under the console in-line with the ebrake. A steeering wheel mounted button would be great for this. Drifters who use ebrake could press and momentarily hold the button to initiate a drift. Still use the stock handle for parking. This would work on any setup.

[alkemyst]

1.) Make a bracket to mount the 240SX caliper in addition to the Z32 caliper and use that just for ebrake. 2.) Add a trunk pop solenoid under the console in-line with the ebrake. A steeering wheel mounted button would be great for this. Drifters who use ebrake could press and momentarily hold the button to initiate a drift. Still use the stock handle for parking. This would work on any setup.

Neither of these ideas would really work.

1) the first idea would add so much weight and the caliper would be wrong for the rotor anyway.

2) the other one, even if it produced enough torque would be so instantaneous you'd not be able to control yourself. When you use the e-brake method to induce a slide it's rarely cranking it as hard as possible unless you are trying to pull of a 180/360. Not to mention with a e-brake handle you have a grip, with a button + braking chances are it will be choppy.

[ThE_BoMB]

From what I have read (i have a s13 so i get to reroute hehehe). It sounds like you have too much slack.

Did you fab a ebrake bracket?

I would suggest tightening it, and then you should also be able to adjust the tightness a bit more using the bolt on the ebrake.

[Ritz S14]

Ok, I lied. It's about 10-12 clicks.. Is guess that would be normal. It just seems high for some reason.

I didn't really fab an ebrake bracket for my S14, but I did cut one in half and make use of it.

[ThE_BoMB]

hahaha. You should be able to tighten it a bit more with the adjustment bolt on the ebrake. that should be pretty close to stock...

[Ritz S14]

Yeah, it's pretty tight, the ebrake lines themselves have damn near no slack. When the handle is all they way down, I already start to feel a small amount of resistance pulling it up to full lock.But when the car in the air the wheels spin freely with out any drag from the ebrake.

After 4-5 months, it feels damn good to have an ebrake again.. I had all the parts, just never bothered to put it on.

[docrice]

you need to adjust the pads inside the drum. Just turn the little pad spreader at the bottom of the assembly until it pushes the pads apart some. Make sure both sides are adjusted the same, btw.

You can do this without even taking off the rotor if your rotors have a small hole in them (for this purpose), just align the hole with the adjuster and use a screwdriver or something else thats kinda long and narrow to turn it.

[Ritz S14]

Damn totally forgot about it. I'll try that..for shits n giggles.. I'll probably throw in new ebrake shoes.

[95Blue240sx]

show me a pic of how you connected the stock ebrake cable to the z32 one. Would the way you connected them is that safe for trying to drift, with all the pressure it will be under when initiating the mad dorifto?

[Dousan_PG]

you DONT need to pull off the rotor to adjust the shoes
use that hole on the rotor hat and a screwdriver (flat head)
you just need to pull your wheel off
that shoudl fix it for you!

[Ritz S14]

show me a pic of how you connected the stock ebrake cable to the z32 one. Would the way you connected them is that safe for trying to drift, with all the pressure it will be under when initiating the mad dorifto?

Yeah.. I keep forgetting my camera. I wouldn't have done it if it wasn't safe. I only pushed myself to install the parking brake system..because there is a drift event on May 1st.. lol.

Dousan. Yeah someone metioned something about it, but I think during install the ebrake shoe got misaligned, so I might have to replace it anyways for good measure.

[Dousan_PG]

ah yes better for good measure
what ebrake calbes you using anyways onyour s14? did you extend them? or using Skyline ones?

[zeusmax]

Okie, Umm I recently purchase the 5 loug swap , but the rear didnt come with z32 e-brake cables, is there away for me to make them work with out the z32 e-brake lines usinf the ones i allready have on my s14?

Can i get some metal lines and connect them to the s14?

Thanks For your help.

[Ritz S14]

I'm using complete z32(don't know if it's TT or N/A) lines AND my stock S14 lines.. haha I didn't do any splicing. I just did some creative routing.

[Ritz S14]

Okie, Umm I recently purchase the 5 loug swap , but the rear didnt come with z32 e-brake cables, is there away for me to make them work with out the z32 e-brake lines usinf the ones i allready have on my s14?

Can i get some metal lines and connect them to the s14?

Thanks For your help.

For your rears to work, you need an internal drum parking brake assembly.

[ThE_BoMB]

im actually curious to your routing. You say you use both? i was actually pondering with the idea of drilling and routing them right into the cabin. but since i have a s13 i dont need to worry about splicing :P. hehe. Although anyone with a s14 would appreaciate a good routing write up for s14.

[Ritz S14]

Don't worry guys.. I'll take pics someday with my car on the lift. It's just that.. I've just reouted my harness.. and I'm trying to get these damn 18x10s to fit up front. So..it's been a bit busy after work.

[Dream240]

Hey guys, I also did the rear Z brake upgrade and had my car set up to use the Z e-brake cables with my existing S14 cables. The first time I spliced them together I gave the passenger side too much slack so the brake didn't engage at all. I redid them about two weeks ago and the cables are spliced nice and tight. I did my splice about 8 inches from the wheel assembly itself. It's a good spot cause you have room to work with just pulling the wheel off.
The only draw back was the clamps I used. I got these little "figure 8" shaped cable clamps that work really great for clamping the cables together, but once you tighten them down you have to dremel them to get em off!! Sucks bad. I had to do this to get the cables tighter. Everything came out good now I just need to adjust the pads cause I set them to all the way in while the ebrake was out of commission. Will try to get pics soon.
Oh another tip for tightening them up, use a second person to hold the cables together while you put on the clamps that way your sure to get them just where u need them...also when you got the cables nice and tight, the T-bar needs to parallel to your driveaxles. Otherwise you will give one brake more tension than the other. I'll take pics of what i'm talking about soon.

[wutangben]

Anyone have links to a good ebrake write up? I've got an S13, w all of the Z32 parts...

[SirWarrior]

hey Ben, stop by my house and we can do it to my S13.
Better than write-up. ;)

[ThE_BoMB]

pretty easy to swap the stuff if you have the parts. take off the rear spindles. remove the hub oem splash guard and ebrake stuff. Put on the z32 ebrake drum/splash guard. Hub rotor caliper ebrake stuff. put the spindle back onto the suspension. Tighten it up. Then reroute the s13 ebrake lines through the rear lower and put it onto the ebrake. Put a bracket on the lines and your good to go.

[Catalan]

Anyone know if the stock 7 spoke alloys clear the 30mm z brakes?

[SirWarrior]

i recall a post about the 7 spokes.
1 type didn't, 1 did.
it showed the each wheel (back of it) and what to look for, in order for them to clear.
so Search?

[meme]

had to make a bracket to hold the cable in 2 places. one near the handle(drive shaft) and one near the upright. that will hold the cable in place.

[SimpleS14]

18x10 upfront o_0

I have a friend that going to use BNR33 cables....I'll make a post if they work as well as they claim.

[SirWarrior]

http://www.sillbeer.com/s13sewheels.php
here's the answer for the S13 wheels

[Ritz S14]

18x10 upfront doesn't work. Well, it'll work with overfenders..or stock fendres with 4x4 height. I guess I'm going to have to scrap the wheels. :(

[Dream240]

18x10 upfront doesn't work. Well, it'll work with overfenders..or stock fendres with 4x4 height. I guess I'm going to have to scrap the wheels. :(

Damn dood why would you go that fat in front? I'm almost afraid to ask what your rear sizes are....

Yeah with that kind of tire width you need 30mm front fenders at least.

[Ritz S14]

Nah, they'll clear with a front 15mm fender pull.. but those fenders aren't really mean tto be pulled like the rears are. Rears are 18x11 275/40/18.

[Dream240]

Rears are 18x11 275/40/18.

damn that's phat....and fat. :)

I thought my 17x9s were big....

don't you have clearance issues with the wheel well? I mean wouldn't you rub when bottoming out? hmmmm.....

[Ritz S14]

18x11 in the back with 15mm spacers..just enough to clear coilovers and brake lines... I have more fender well space..but meh..rims have got to go. Doesn't bottem out or rub..pretty flush. But not as flush as my FN 17x10+12 in the back which I'll throw on shortly.

[rancid240]

i had trouble getting my cables through the subframe hole. The original z32 bracket, though I remember pulling it out of the hole easily enough when I took them off the z32, would not go in no matter how hard i tried. so what i ended up doing is just routing the wires on top of the lower arm and sway bar = mickey mouse, you have to pull the ebrake handle way up to get it tight. someday I will just grind off that bracket and run the wires through that hole.

Also just wondering if the cable lengths are different from a 2+2 or 2+0?

[Dream240]

Rancid, did you need the bracket because you were running stock Z lines in the rear? If so you can remedy all this by getting SPL lines or Project Nissan lines for the Z rears on the 240. They run 65 bucks but well worth it. Then you will be able to get rid of all that crap and just run the brake line from the hard line fitting straight to the caliper. Cleans up the whole area and the ebrake cables have much more room. Of course this is all just preference. you could leave it alone but you won't be able to fix that ebrake handle issue with the cables like that. They're supposed to go through those subframe holes for the handle to engage properly.

Oh.....duh I get it you meant the mounting brackets for the cables on the subframe.... duh.

Those you don't need. Just use a pair of pliers and twist them off. Then voila the lines will run right through the hole no problems. I assume you're referring to the rear mounting bracket right? Wait you have an S13 right? Gotta verify cause the S14 is different.