drifta
04-22-2016, 04:13 PM
Im hoping the 240 community can help me out on this one.
I have a daily driven 89 Skyline GTE (no ABS) that I swapped to 5 lug hubs and R32 GTR brakes. Im using freshly turned OEM rotors, new Hawk ceramic pads and steel braid lines. At first I just used the stock GTE booster and master cylinder. After I fully bled the system and took it out to bed the brakes I could tell before I even got out of the garage that something was not right. The pedal pressure was stiffer than it should be and the car was just not slowing as much as it should. So I went out and bed the brakes anyway hoping that it would "come to life" if I just drove it a while. After about a month of driving the car this way I noticed that the rear rotors looked like they were still brand new. I could clearly see the cross hatching from being turned, its as if the rear pads are not clamping onto the rear rotor. When I step on the pedal the car just does not slow like it should be, my stock GTE brakes felt way better than these GTR brakes.
So I thought maybe the master cylinder is bad? So I bought a brand new bigger 1" master, swapped it out and bled the entire system again. I got the EXACT SAME FEEL!!! Stiff pedal and the car just does not stop the way it should. If there is an emergency situation where I would need to slam on my brakes they will just not be there for me.
Im totally lost on what it could be and I would really love some useful information and not your typical response of "bleed your brakes again".
Ive been a race mechanic/fabricator for the past 15 years and know how to bleed a cars brake system. Ive tried every different sequence that Ive found online. Ive tried using a pneumatic bleeder and hand bleeding, nothing seems to change the stiff pedal and weak braking power.
Please help.
I have a daily driven 89 Skyline GTE (no ABS) that I swapped to 5 lug hubs and R32 GTR brakes. Im using freshly turned OEM rotors, new Hawk ceramic pads and steel braid lines. At first I just used the stock GTE booster and master cylinder. After I fully bled the system and took it out to bed the brakes I could tell before I even got out of the garage that something was not right. The pedal pressure was stiffer than it should be and the car was just not slowing as much as it should. So I went out and bed the brakes anyway hoping that it would "come to life" if I just drove it a while. After about a month of driving the car this way I noticed that the rear rotors looked like they were still brand new. I could clearly see the cross hatching from being turned, its as if the rear pads are not clamping onto the rear rotor. When I step on the pedal the car just does not slow like it should be, my stock GTE brakes felt way better than these GTR brakes.
So I thought maybe the master cylinder is bad? So I bought a brand new bigger 1" master, swapped it out and bled the entire system again. I got the EXACT SAME FEEL!!! Stiff pedal and the car just does not stop the way it should. If there is an emergency situation where I would need to slam on my brakes they will just not be there for me.
Im totally lost on what it could be and I would really love some useful information and not your typical response of "bleed your brakes again".
Ive been a race mechanic/fabricator for the past 15 years and know how to bleed a cars brake system. Ive tried every different sequence that Ive found online. Ive tried using a pneumatic bleeder and hand bleeding, nothing seems to change the stiff pedal and weak braking power.
Please help.