2.5T_/<ouki
03-27-2016, 10:34 PM
This topic has been around a lot and there are a LOT of threads on this topic however, there isn't a thread that is a straight answer for the s14 guys. I hear a lot of people saying to remove x amount of collars/cups and others disagree. I'm making this thread to basically have all the information you could possibly want/need when doing rear subframe bushings on s14.
Please excuse my lack of pictures lol. It's rather difficult to hold heavy objects and trying to take a picture so I will try and describe and provide the pictures that I do have and will answer any questions one may have.
This is at your own risk. Please make sure to wear protective gearing.
Be advised I already had my exhaust as well as my brake calipers removed so I did not show this part. You WILL need to remove your exhaust and brake calipers.
I chose to remove the drive shaft from the diff so I can remove the complete subframe with all arms/parts still attached. If you absolutely have to use a torch like I did to remove the bolts, PLEASE PLEASE be careful as you're right under the gas tank......Please inspect your tank thoroughly before attempting this. A leaky tank = boom. My bolts/nuts were 14mm.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/6ECE0A06-4ED8-4970-B249-EE85ED978BB5_zpsseqjcosa.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/6ECE0A06-4ED8-4970-B249-EE85ED978BB5_zpsseqjcosa.jpg.html)
After I removed the driveshaft, It was time to prepare the jack / jack stands before I loosened up the 4 bolts holding the subframe up.
- Place a floor jack under the diff to hold it in place.
That's basically all you really need to hold it up, especially if you're taking it off with the wheels still on. You can place jack stands under the subframe to hold it as well, but usually the weight gets distributed to the back (diff) so the jack under it usually does the trick rather well.
http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/lsd/jack.jpg
There are 4 bolts holding the subframe to the chassis and I have labeled them in red for you. I provided the picture straight from the FSM so you can see what size the bolts are as well. Loosen those for bolts and make sure you have the jack / jack stands under the subframe supporting it.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2vw8pxf.jpg
One you remove all 4 bolts holding the subframe to the chassis, go ahead and lower the jack slowly; the subframe and all components will come down with it ;).
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/B719D80E-92BB-403F-9E4F-04C6EB0DE7C0_zpsjrov2idz.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/B719D80E-92BB-403F-9E4F-04C6EB0DE7C0_zpsjrov2idz.jpg.html)
At this point it's up to you if you'd like to remove components off of the subframe. I left everything intact for the front 2 however I decided to remove the diff, axles, knucks, hub assembly after the front 2 were complete. My 2 front OEM subframe bushings were toast! They basically fell apart in my hand lol.
What I chose to do at this point was to use my torch to burn the remaining bushing as much as I could before I went at it with the drill/wire wheel. The wire wheel honestly does wonders. This is what it will look like when all the remains of the oem bushing are removed.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/C67DCB24-1BF1-4BD6-9A2D-6063E75D4A81_zpshu61d4c7.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/C67DCB24-1BF1-4BD6-9A2D-6063E75D4A81_zpshu61d4c7.jpg.html)
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg.html)
This part about removing cups/collars from the subframe ONLY APPLIES to the 2 front ones. The rears do not need to have any collars/cups removed. Notice how the bottom has a little lip ? Good, KEEP IT! Do NOT remove that lip because if you do, You will need to ditch those poly bushings and go solild bushings. The poly bushings need this little lip to properly fit/work in the subframe.
What I found easiest was to use a hand saw (I didn't have a sawzall handy) and cut straight through the collars. Please make sure you don't go ALL the way through the subframe. Cut through to the first thicker looking collar. In doing this, you will also have to make a little cut through the lip at the bottom, be careful!
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg.html)
Next, I got my mallet and pick and went to town try to get the collars out. For the front 2, there are 2 "collars/metal rings" you want to remove. ONLY those 2 will be removed for the new bushings to work properly.
FIRST ONE!
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/5BCC690D-68DF-4DEB-9243-638A5E4A00B7_zpsgkdkk2n6.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/5BCC690D-68DF-4DEB-9243-638A5E4A00B7_zpsgkdkk2n6.jpg.html)
SECOND ONE! Notice the little lip is still there at the bottom? Good, keep it! YOU NEED IT
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/99F955B6-58BC-43ED-A457-C789DBE9B59D_zps5ivils20.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/99F955B6-58BC-43ED-A457-C789DBE9B59D_zps5ivils20.jpg.html)
Next, I took the drill/wire wheel and went to town! Cleaned it up real nice and make sure it was basically free of debris. (yes pic is of the rear one here, but I did this process for all, just happened to only snap a pic for the rears as I was finishing up the last bushing.
That little pic is actually a video lol
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/th_8EBE2B84-9C84-453B-98B1-FD472FA80C40_zpszhrlb5xd.mp4 (http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/8EBE2B84-9C84-453B-98B1-FD472FA80C40_zpszhrlb5xd.mp4)
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg.html)
Once clean, go ahead and lube the inside a tad to make it a bit easier to get the bushings in. Do the top first, then the bottom side.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/19C978BC-FD03-46CE-9CE5-B3AAA99B61DA_zpsdyglsbrs.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/19C978BC-FD03-46CE-9CE5-B3AAA99B61DA_zpsdyglsbrs.jpg.html)
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/92112550-2C57-412B-A940-7F9DD8AFE03D_zpsmw9q3pdt.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/92112550-2C57-412B-A940-7F9DD8AFE03D_zpsmw9q3pdt.jpg.html)
Repeat for the other front side! :)
For the rears, it's actually a lot easier as you don't have to bang out any collars and it doesn't require any sawing of anything either. PLEASE MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE LIP ON THE BOTTOM for the rears just as you did for the fronts. You need them! Remove the old oem bushing; again I used fire and the wire wheel ;). Once cleaned, lube the subframe/bushing a tad to make life easier and put in your bushings.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg.html)
You can take it a step further like I did and wash/paint your subframe/arms lol. I chose to use paint from VHT again, however this one was called "roll bar/cage" paint. It was all purpose all weather so I thought it would be good for this application.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/1FA0734C-7A5F-4ADC-9600-26F457469729_zpsf2wfwkfm.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/1FA0734C-7A5F-4ADC-9600-26F457469729_zpsf2wfwkfm.jpg.html)
You're DONE! with the bushing install LOL. Now you gotta put everything back and put that sucker back up on the chassis.
Please excuse my lack of pictures lol. It's rather difficult to hold heavy objects and trying to take a picture so I will try and describe and provide the pictures that I do have and will answer any questions one may have.
This is at your own risk. Please make sure to wear protective gearing.
Be advised I already had my exhaust as well as my brake calipers removed so I did not show this part. You WILL need to remove your exhaust and brake calipers.
I chose to remove the drive shaft from the diff so I can remove the complete subframe with all arms/parts still attached. If you absolutely have to use a torch like I did to remove the bolts, PLEASE PLEASE be careful as you're right under the gas tank......Please inspect your tank thoroughly before attempting this. A leaky tank = boom. My bolts/nuts were 14mm.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/6ECE0A06-4ED8-4970-B249-EE85ED978BB5_zpsseqjcosa.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/6ECE0A06-4ED8-4970-B249-EE85ED978BB5_zpsseqjcosa.jpg.html)
After I removed the driveshaft, It was time to prepare the jack / jack stands before I loosened up the 4 bolts holding the subframe up.
- Place a floor jack under the diff to hold it in place.
That's basically all you really need to hold it up, especially if you're taking it off with the wheels still on. You can place jack stands under the subframe to hold it as well, but usually the weight gets distributed to the back (diff) so the jack under it usually does the trick rather well.
http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/lsd/jack.jpg
There are 4 bolts holding the subframe to the chassis and I have labeled them in red for you. I provided the picture straight from the FSM so you can see what size the bolts are as well. Loosen those for bolts and make sure you have the jack / jack stands under the subframe supporting it.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2vw8pxf.jpg
One you remove all 4 bolts holding the subframe to the chassis, go ahead and lower the jack slowly; the subframe and all components will come down with it ;).
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/B719D80E-92BB-403F-9E4F-04C6EB0DE7C0_zpsjrov2idz.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/B719D80E-92BB-403F-9E4F-04C6EB0DE7C0_zpsjrov2idz.jpg.html)
At this point it's up to you if you'd like to remove components off of the subframe. I left everything intact for the front 2 however I decided to remove the diff, axles, knucks, hub assembly after the front 2 were complete. My 2 front OEM subframe bushings were toast! They basically fell apart in my hand lol.
What I chose to do at this point was to use my torch to burn the remaining bushing as much as I could before I went at it with the drill/wire wheel. The wire wheel honestly does wonders. This is what it will look like when all the remains of the oem bushing are removed.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/C67DCB24-1BF1-4BD6-9A2D-6063E75D4A81_zpshu61d4c7.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/C67DCB24-1BF1-4BD6-9A2D-6063E75D4A81_zpshu61d4c7.jpg.html)
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg.html)
This part about removing cups/collars from the subframe ONLY APPLIES to the 2 front ones. The rears do not need to have any collars/cups removed. Notice how the bottom has a little lip ? Good, KEEP IT! Do NOT remove that lip because if you do, You will need to ditch those poly bushings and go solild bushings. The poly bushings need this little lip to properly fit/work in the subframe.
What I found easiest was to use a hand saw (I didn't have a sawzall handy) and cut straight through the collars. Please make sure you don't go ALL the way through the subframe. Cut through to the first thicker looking collar. In doing this, you will also have to make a little cut through the lip at the bottom, be careful!
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/E88CE25F-86F7-4B7E-AEC0-A0ED7EAC0149_zpsn5e5dlku.jpg.html)
Next, I got my mallet and pick and went to town try to get the collars out. For the front 2, there are 2 "collars/metal rings" you want to remove. ONLY those 2 will be removed for the new bushings to work properly.
FIRST ONE!
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/5BCC690D-68DF-4DEB-9243-638A5E4A00B7_zpsgkdkk2n6.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/5BCC690D-68DF-4DEB-9243-638A5E4A00B7_zpsgkdkk2n6.jpg.html)
SECOND ONE! Notice the little lip is still there at the bottom? Good, keep it! YOU NEED IT
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/99F955B6-58BC-43ED-A457-C789DBE9B59D_zps5ivils20.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/99F955B6-58BC-43ED-A457-C789DBE9B59D_zps5ivils20.jpg.html)
Next, I took the drill/wire wheel and went to town! Cleaned it up real nice and make sure it was basically free of debris. (yes pic is of the rear one here, but I did this process for all, just happened to only snap a pic for the rears as I was finishing up the last bushing.
That little pic is actually a video lol
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/th_8EBE2B84-9C84-453B-98B1-FD472FA80C40_zpszhrlb5xd.mp4 (http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/8EBE2B84-9C84-453B-98B1-FD472FA80C40_zpszhrlb5xd.mp4)
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg.html)
Once clean, go ahead and lube the inside a tad to make it a bit easier to get the bushings in. Do the top first, then the bottom side.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/19C978BC-FD03-46CE-9CE5-B3AAA99B61DA_zpsdyglsbrs.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/19C978BC-FD03-46CE-9CE5-B3AAA99B61DA_zpsdyglsbrs.jpg.html)
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/92112550-2C57-412B-A940-7F9DD8AFE03D_zpsmw9q3pdt.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/92112550-2C57-412B-A940-7F9DD8AFE03D_zpsmw9q3pdt.jpg.html)
Repeat for the other front side! :)
For the rears, it's actually a lot easier as you don't have to bang out any collars and it doesn't require any sawing of anything either. PLEASE MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE LIP ON THE BOTTOM for the rears just as you did for the fronts. You need them! Remove the old oem bushing; again I used fire and the wire wheel ;). Once cleaned, lube the subframe/bushing a tad to make life easier and put in your bushings.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/CBF7DE83-A27F-41C6-85A2-EF2E5A32B866_zpsrm3oielz.jpg.html)
You can take it a step further like I did and wash/paint your subframe/arms lol. I chose to use paint from VHT again, however this one was called "roll bar/cage" paint. It was all purpose all weather so I thought it would be good for this application.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k584/rbkoukis14/1FA0734C-7A5F-4ADC-9600-26F457469729_zpsf2wfwkfm.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rbkoukis14/media/1FA0734C-7A5F-4ADC-9600-26F457469729_zpsf2wfwkfm.jpg.html)
You're DONE! with the bushing install LOL. Now you gotta put everything back and put that sucker back up on the chassis.