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Jeff240sx
09-16-2004, 02:06 PM
Same as the SR sticky. Post up stuff here.
When I get back from class I'll add my information here. For now, all you people with FMU and otherwise stock fuel setup, go boost. I don't want you to disgrace or defame the KA anymore than it has been.
-Jeff

RBS14
09-16-2004, 06:19 PM
Thank You Jeff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DoriftoSlut
09-16-2004, 09:58 PM
Jeff correct any of this if im terribly wrong because this is off the top of my head.
It's Maeda btw.

Turbo's of choice + Fuel Ideas
300HP+
T04
T3/T04[e]
---
JWT ECU/SAFC2/Emanage/ETC.
Walboro 255
450cc and up
Cobra/Z32 MAF

250-270HP
T3/T04[b/e]
Big T3 (60 trim and up) [standard t3 can do it.]
[t28 - see also, AceinHole]
---
JWT ECU/SAFC2/Emanage/ETC.
Walboro 255
370cc - 450cc
Cobra/Z32 MAF
or
Hacked MAF(?)
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc
or
RRFPR [NOT RECOMMENDED FOR MORE THAN TEMPORARY DRIVING!]
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc

Up to 250HP
Smaller T3
T28
---
JWT ECU/SAFC2/Emanage/ETC.
Walboro 255
370cc and up
or
Hacked MAF(?)
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc
or
RRFPR [Again, not recommended]
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc

Cobra MAF works only with JWT.
Z32 MAF is compatible with most piggybacks.
R32 MAF can also be used and is compatible with most piggybacks.

Cheap Injectors
370cc Injectors come from stock SR20DET's (about 150$ total)
450cc Injectors come from DSM's and require a custom fuel rail (about 200$ total)
480cc Injectors come from S15 SR20DET (about 250$ total)

Cheap Intercoolers
Side-mount SR20DET i/c's will work up to about 200HP
Blue Bird i/c's (slightly bigger) will work up to about 250HP
People have been known to stack sidemount intercoolers to good effect.

It is in my opinion better to shoot for about 250RWHP on the KA and tune for throttle response instead of going for 300+RWHP and having to deal with turbo lag. It's cheaper and more useful if you do anything other then drag racing or racing people on the LA on-ramps. :)

[I've added stuff in brackets throughout the post, as it was fairly long and I didn't want to quote it. ~Jeff]

RBS14
09-16-2004, 11:05 PM
Edit: Fuel pumps are a MUST when going KAT. Read Jeff's post below this one for more info.

Hacked MAF is also a good option that requires NO ECU mods or piggyback fuel systems. All you do is stick your maf sensor element in a larger tube (size depending on injector/turbo size). a good size to use with 370's is ~2.6ID tube when running 250rwhp or below. some people have run up to a 3"ID with higher numbers.

Starion Intercoolers are also a good option. relatively efficient and good size. good to 300rwhp from what i've heard.

Z31 turbos are a T3, but difficult to fit due to the turbo elbow. not recommended for top mount manifolds.

oil feed line from the turbo can come from 2 places. a sandwich plate between the block and oil filter or the more common, oil pressure sender location, right below the oil filter. thread pitch is 1/8" BSPT. 1/8" NPT will work but will more often than not strip out the hole. then you are FUXORED! so don't use NPT thread pitch on the block. Only problem with BSPT is finding it stateside. America, being the geniuses we are decided to make up our own thread pitch, and not use the world's standard (BSPT). sound familiar?.... not using metric system maybe? haha anyways. Also be careful with braided stainless oil feed lines, they are the best for the job, but you can put holes in them relatively easy. I routed mine back behind the engine because I thought over the valvecover was ugly. it looked better, but got snagged on something and got a hole in it. luckily I was almost home when it happened, if I had been driving for another 5 mins my engine would have been toast.

One of the biggest bitches of everything I did was welding in the oil drain fitting to my oil pan. well not the welding itself, that was the easiest part. taking off the oil pan and especially putting it back on SUCKS!!!! set aside a full day to do it.

another good thing to do is buy a high flow cat for your kat. it seems to be one of the most overlooked parts of a kat setup. Summit sells a universal DOT approved one for like $53 shipped, very good quality. I've got one and love it.

that's about all of the random shit I can think of right now.

I know I'm prolly not supposed to do this but....... [No. You were right. You're not supposed to do that. ~Jeff]

Jeff240sx
09-17-2004, 09:17 AM
one common misconception is that high flow fuel pumps are necessicary. stock pump with 370's will do 250rwhp before it starts to lean out. a couple people have also run more fuel pressure via an adjustable regualator to get a little more flow out of their respective injectors too.

It's not a misconception. The stock pump has enough fuel to go there, but the lifespan of a pump running full throttle is severely shortened. Then, if you're like me and drive with barely any gas (fuel pump coolant) it's as good as cooked.
Also, using an adjustable or rising rate fuel pressure regulator puts more stress on the pump, and every pump becomes less efficient when pumping more pressure. This cause lead to fuel starvation, and destroying your motor. It's $100, and I'm dead serious, don't fuck around with "skimping" on fuel. Even at 4psi, get a new $100 pump, or it will eventually be a $500 KA.
-Jeff

RBS14
09-17-2004, 11:31 AM
I edited my post to hopefully not lead people in the wrong direction.

Is this false too?:

A high flow pump will blow out your FPR.
[This is untrue. To a point. I'm running the Walbro 255l/hr high-pressure pump on the stock fuel pressure regulator. However, a z32 tt pump will outflow the fpr. This won't necessarily break it, but it won't be able to hold a constant pressure, will bump up the pressure to the rail, and you'll run rich. Anything over a Walbro 255 hi-flo needs an aftermarket regulator.]
~Jeff

Jeff240sx
09-17-2004, 12:01 PM
Power Levels
Some companies advertise stage 1, 2, and 3 for turbo kits. This isn't very fair in my opinion, because z32 guys get 5+ levels. So I'm just going to make up new stages, based on what builds I've seen.

Stage .5:
Turbo kit, usually junkyard style, smic, and rrfpr.
Parts needed:
Turbo, manifold, blow off valve (BOV), wastegate (unless you have an actuated turbo), smic, fuel pump, rrfpr.
Estimated power levels: It's hit or miss. I've seen 180rwhp @ 6-8psi, and I've seen 230rwhp @ 8psi.

Stage 1:
Basic turbo kit. FMax and XSEngineering both sell their kits with rrfprs, which irks me, because they rarely include a severely-needed fuel pump. Any well pieced together kit will make the same power levels.
Parts needed: Everything from above, but with better parts, and a FMIC.
Claimed power levels: 220rwhp @ 6psi to 240rwhp at 8psi. Depends on the kit.

Stage 2:
This is where people usually go next.
Parts needed:
3" Exhaust. Aftermarket head filter, usually s-afc + 370cc injectors
Estimated power levels: 240 @ 6psi to 260 @ 8psi.

Stage 3.
About 3 in 10 go this far with their turbo kits.
Parts needed:
This is always a tuned ecu, usually z32 or cobra maf, 370cc injectors or larger, aiming for 3" turbo-back exhaust, so larger downpipe, testpipe or high-flow catalytic convertor. Here grip and traction matter.
Estimated power levels: This is a grey area, as there are so many variables. 370cc injectors top out at 275rwhp or so. As does the stock maf. Ignition system is recommended for 300hp+, because the boost tends to blow out the spark.
Here's what I'll say: Limits: 370cc injectors = 270rwhp @ 8-10psi. 50# injectors = 350rwhp @ 15-18psi. At 325rwhp or so, I'd think about moving to stage 4.

Stage 4:
Time for more boost. But with the factory piston ring lands so prone to shattering, they've got to go. While you're there, there are some optional parts to replace.
Required: Forged pistons. While you're in the motor, think about replacing (optional): Rods, rod and main bearings, oil pump, timing components, all gaskets and seals (front and rear main seals, ect). Servicing the tranny and replacing tranny seals should also be done. (I didn't do that, and now have a leaking rear tranny seal :( )
Power limits: This is rare air. Encroaching on the 400hp club. 72# injectors will be good to 440rwhp or so. Tuning becomes a major factor for the exact horsepower limits. 50# injectors should be thrown away, because they're still limiting you to 350rwhp.

Stage 5:
The whole damn thing. You've got boost. Lots of it. On your built bottom end. But there's gotta be a top end, too. So fix it.
Parts needed: Cams. Swap in some cams, and you'll feel like it's a different car. You'll need some valve springs and retainers, because a built bottom end and cams will open up a 7200-7500rpm redline, and I'm sure you'd want to use it. While you're there, think about valves, and a valve job. Deburr and polish the head (mild port and polish job). Port match the head for the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Cautions: Do not do a major port and polish. This has been blamed for many high powered motors, from BoostedS14 on here, to Chris May's 2 motors in the 438rwhp s14 that was featured in SCC.
*When you swap cams, your car will go from not wanting to approach redline to bouncing off the rev limiter. Hehehe*
Power levels: You still care about these? It's in the 11 second range. Same power, less boost.

Stage 5+:
This isn't really a stage, but wallet permitting, there are many more things you can do. From standalone engine management and throwing out the maf to creating your own intake manifold, or extrude honing the stockie. Imagination and wallet are the limits. You could have even worked with JWT to develop a 96# injector program (now in progress) for sick, sick power levels. 96# injectors should be good to 575+, I haven't done the calculations on it.

Now. This is for refrence only. Don't bitch when you spend $4k and make 10 or 20hp less than "estimated." Alot depends on tuning, and the condition of your motor. There are also the Nissan Freak motors, which produce 30hp more than they should on any setup. Look at the enjuku SR, 393 hp on a t3/4, while no other SR has done over 330 on that kit.
-Jeff

AutoRnD
09-17-2004, 12:07 PM
ok now if an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is so bad.. what if i have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator running 550 cc injectors.. without running a chipped ecu or a stand alone.. just a piggy back.. and i am also running the walbro 255 pump.. do you guys think it is ok to turn down the fuel pressure? to lean it out a bit?

Jeff240sx
09-17-2004, 12:13 PM
It's bad. There is no reason to run any aftermarket fuel pressure regulator on 550cc or 50# injectors. At base fuel pressure, they provide enough fuel for 350rwhp. And running that much power on a piggyback is stupid. So you're not getting any benefits from the regulator. I would, however, suggest an ecu tune for over 260hp.
-Jeff

AutoRnD
09-17-2004, 02:01 PM
i understand... but due to time constraints as well as a limited budget.. i ain't planning on trying to make more than 250 whp at 10 psi... for the meantime... and when i actually have enough money to go bookoo bucks on nice engine i will also opt for stand alone as well.

Jeff240sx
09-17-2004, 02:30 PM
You don't need an adjustable fpr, seeing as 550cc injectors are MORE THAN ENOUGH fuel for 250hp. You need some sort of TUNING, and a fuel pressure regulator is not tuning. For the price you'd pay to get a rrfpr tuned, you'd have spent enough for a ecu. They're hard to tune, throw another variable in the mix, and suck. So, stop trying to make excuses for spending the money and accept the fact you've wasted it.
-Jeff

skatanic28
09-17-2004, 03:03 PM
manifolds (feel free to steal the list and add more)

etdracing http://www.etdracing.com/manifold/manifold6.html
revhard http://www.revhard.com/castmanifolds.html
phat ka-t http://www.phatka-t.com/s13manifold.htm
ssautochrome check ebaymotors
jsgtools kit http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html
iap http://www.import-autoperformance.com/manifolds_access.html

nightwalker
09-18-2004, 01:03 AM
I know some of you guys are tapping into the block for the oil return line. If anyone could get a how-to, or even just a pic of where-to, that would be awesom.

95Blue240sx
09-18-2004, 09:37 AM
SSauto manifold - http://www.planb-attack.com/kyle/group-buy.htm

When you buy a kit like the Fmax(turbonetics) or Greddy, what is the ratio on the RRFPR?

I would think adding a RRFPR in a 1:1 ratio to any kit would ease in the tuning department. Correct me if i am wrong, but for ever 1 psi of boost the fpr goes up 1 psi. In turn when tuning you are not having to sort of max out the piggy back at each rpm.

RBS14
09-18-2004, 12:11 PM
I know some of you guys are tapping into the block for the oil return line. If anyone could get a how-to, or even just a pic of where-to, that would be awesom.

who is? I've never heard of that. oil pan, yes. block, no. Oil feed comes from the block as stated in my above post. Is that what you were thinking of?

If you are thinking of supply, it's a big round sensor that screws into the block just below the oil filter. It has one wire going into the end of it. you can't miss it if you look for it.

nightwalker
09-18-2004, 07:01 PM
yes, I am talking about oil return into the block. I forget if it was here or FA that everyone was talking about it. Well, anyone here?

RBS14
09-18-2004, 07:58 PM
why would you do that? what is more effective about it than returning into the oil pan? I fail to see how it would be more beneficial than returning to the oil pan.

upSLIDEdown
09-20-2004, 01:36 PM
I've never read about it here but I saw Greaser talking about it on KA-T.org. I think he's a member of FA also. He does it on all of his motors now. He drills a hole in the block, welds a AN fitting to the block and uses stainless lines. This alleviates fixing lines and checking them for leaks. It's also more resistant to heat, oil, etc. It also seals easier and it's definitely gonna be higher than the level of the oil in the pan.

Bryan

NismoSilvia270R
09-21-2004, 03:12 PM
it was in a magazine tech article. it had a silver mkiv on the cover. one of the more ricier mags

edit. modified mag around jan o4.

nightwalker
09-21-2004, 03:24 PM
Thanks guys, I'll go bug Greaser at FA.

bdeisle
09-23-2004, 04:05 PM
HKS Super blow. Great for open atmo. bov. seals nice and tite at idle no staling once in a blue moon a little flame (it is a push/pull design bov so T off one vacume line to the big nipple and the little nipple on the back side.) Thou most of the HKS bov you can run open atmo. with no problems

Blow by MAF had great throttle response, nothing negitive

Pull Thru MAF recomend 12-18" of pipe from maf to turbo, great idle, perfect fuel pressure reading

Recomend changing out the pvr valve, seen a few of those go up which in turn less lifespan on piston rings

Ka24de sick motor!

SpdElemts
09-28-2004, 10:43 AM
I dont know if this has been asked already but can the 95-98 turbo kits fit the 91-93 s13?

DRFT180
10-02-2004, 06:02 PM
What about the SSA manifold? It states it's for the 94+ kade, will this manfold work on 91-93 ka's??

Jeff240sx
10-03-2004, 12:29 AM
It'll be another week or week and a half before I can commit a couple hours to these threads. Until then, keep adding info!
For the two above. 94 = s13 convertable = s13 engine. Now. SSA sucks, their SSAutoCrack manifolds suck, and if they don't realize '95 is the beginning of s14 with a different engine bay, or that by including '94 it infers fitment to '91+, they're retarded. I'm sure someone would have corrected them by now...
-Jeff

TurboB15sentra
10-03-2004, 06:41 AM
Here's my ideal KA setup.. I'm actually building this right now..

S13 KA24DE motor
Arias 8.5:1 pistons
Pauter forged rods
JWT cams/springs
ARP studs
metal headgasket
Custom sheetmetal intake manifold
Garrett GT30R (.82 A/R)
Custom equal length stainless manifold (316L schedule 40 weld L's)
3" dp and exhaust
Enthalapy (formerly of Secret Services) tuned ECU
72lb injectors
Z32 MAF
Custom billet twin feed fuel rail
Twin Walbro pumps (just in case.. ;))

All the other mods... intercooler, piping, blah.. blah.. you know the rest..

Travis

AlligatorBling
10-03-2004, 07:06 AM
a quick question.... besides upgrading the fuel pump, injectors, ect, is there any major change you have to make to the car after installing the turbo, such as ECU settings ect?

kandyflip445
10-03-2004, 11:17 AM
Yes, along with what you said you should have a way to control the fuel. Such as an ECU (Enthalpy, JWT, etc.), S-AFC, stand alone (AEM, Tec3, etc.). The ecu and stand alone will also control advance and retard, along with higher resolution, so they'd be the better choice.

nissantuner22
10-03-2004, 11:31 AM
Enthalapy > everyone

TurboB15sentra
10-03-2004, 12:59 PM
Enthalapy > everyone

I don't realy think that Scott's tuning ability is above Clark's.. Seriously.. think about it. Clark has been tuning Nissan cars/trucks for 20 years. They do work for Nissan Motorsports and Nissan Corporate.. at least a few projects a year that no one even knows about. Clark's knowledge in camshaft development and engine tuning theory is phenominal. I talked to him last week about the big hoo-rah on Fresh Alloy about the JWT versus Enthalapy ECU comparision.. He laughed about it.. and said.. well I would hope that any competant tuner would be able to get more power out of a given setup if they sat there and tweaked on it. Also, not every setup is the same.. Different bends in piping affect flow over the MAF sensor... differences in fuel pressure.. timing.. etc.. All of this stuff adds up.. so Clark DOES tune conservatively. I don't blame them.. When you tune to the edge, and mass produce it.. things can go wrong in a hurry. We're not just talking about a few ECU's here and there... JWT turns out hundreds/thousands of these things. Liability is a big issue.. so, it pays to be conservative.

And I'm NOT taking away from Scott's tuning ability... He's very good at what he does. But, to say that he's better than Clark... just isn't true. Matter of fact.. Scott is going to help tune our newest 500whp Spec V project. Since our customer lives in Tampa.. this will be convenient. :) If I were closer to CA.. Clark would be helping. I trust BOTH of thier tuning ability.. But to say that one is better than the other.. just isn't fair.

Travis

Jeff240sx
10-03-2004, 08:27 PM
Oh my god. I didn't just read this shit on Tampa Racing. Now that you're on my forum, the FAQ will not turn into a debate. Make a different thread if that's what gets your rocks off.
Scott said there were only slight differences in a chip he'd ship out versus that ecu he dyno'd. 40hp is not "slight differences". 10-15.. maybe 20rwhp would be a margin of safety. 40rwhp gain over JWT is rediculous.
You brought up this camshaft design shit in TR too. Here, again, we're not talking about camshafts. Or who gives better blowjobs. Or who has the darker eyes. Wow. He can design a cam. But apparently can't or won't tune an ecu for power. 10.5:1 from the JWT ecu I got can be construed as "Safe Tuning." To me it's a waste. A waste of gas, a waste of power, and a sheer waste of money. JWT has no customer support, and charges to retune. Scott is readily available, remembers who he's talking to (as opposed to my "Hey I have a problem." "Ok. Open the ECU and tell me the numbers." "Ok. I got the numbers.. 46xcx20dcxz." "Who are you?"), and doesn't *afaik* charge to retune. I don't care about how many ECUs they sell. Maybe they forgot what customer service is, or maybe it's just another case of "Bigger isn't better."
How about the use of a Cobra MAF? It's a ploy for JWT to make money imo. There is no reason to use a shitty MAF like a cobra, which a) is hard to make piping for, and b) maxes at 350hp. How do they get it past 350hp? By using a splitter in the ecu. When a z32 maf is great to 545hp, and the ecu reads true, why write programs and only sell the cobra maf? $$$.
So here we have price. Scott wins. Customer service. Scott wins. Power. Scott wins. Fuel economy. Scott wins. About the only thing JWT can be thanked for is pioneering this.
And in a year, if someone bothers to seek out and tally the blown motors attributed to Scott and JWT, I will bet $5 that the two ecus will be within 10% of eachother. Most people blow their motors due to a corner cut. Not the ecu program. So losing so much power, so much gas mileage to prevent only a handfull of ecu-related motor deaths is not worth it.
How about this. If JWT is great, why don't they come out with a 2nd program? One oriented towards power and economy rather than safety. I didn't half-ass my setup. I don't want a program written for those who do, and I want my 40rwhp back.
-Jeff

TurboB15sentra
10-05-2004, 01:31 AM
Oh my god. I didn't just read this shit on Tampa Racing. Now that you're on my forum, the FAQ will not turn into a debate. Make a different thread if that's what gets your rocks off.
Scott said there were only slight differences in a chip he'd ship out versus that ecu he dyno'd. 40hp is not "slight differences". 10-15.. maybe 20rwhp would be a margin of safety. 40rwhp gain over JWT is rediculous.
You brought up this camshaft design shit in TR too. Here, again, we're not talking about camshafts. Or who gives better blowjobs. Or who has the darker eyes. Wow. He can design a cam. But apparently can't or won't tune an ecu for power. 10.5:1 from the JWT ecu I got can be construed as "Safe Tuning." To me it's a waste. A waste of gas, a waste of power, and a sheer waste of money. JWT has no customer support, and charges to retune. Scott is readily available, remembers who he's talking to (as opposed to my "Hey I have a problem." "Ok. Open the ECU and tell me the numbers." "Ok. I got the numbers.. 46xcx20dcxz." "Who are you?"), and doesn't *afaik* charge to retune. I don't care about how many ECUs they sell. Maybe they forgot what customer service is, or maybe it's just another case of "Bigger isn't better."
How about the use of a Cobra MAF? It's a ploy for JWT to make money imo. There is no reason to use a shitty MAF like a cobra, which a) is hard to make piping for, and b) maxes at 350hp. How do they get it past 350hp? By using a splitter in the ecu. When a z32 maf is great to 545hp, and the ecu reads true, why write programs and only sell the cobra maf? $$$.
So here we have price. Scott wins. Customer service. Scott wins. Power. Scott wins. Fuel economy. Scott wins. About the only thing JWT can be thanked for is pioneering this.
And in a year, if someone bothers to seek out and tally the blown motors attributed to Scott and JWT, I will bet $5 that the two ecus will be within 10% of eachother. Most people blow their motors due to a corner cut. Not the ecu program. So losing so much power, so much gas mileage to prevent only a handfull of ecu-related motor deaths is not worth it.
How about this. If JWT is great, why don't they come out with a 2nd program? One oriented towards power and economy rather than safety. I didn't half-ass my setup. I don't want a program written for those who do, and I want my 40rwhp back.
-Jeff

I'm sorry what I posted upsets you so much... I thought it was rather positive for Scott and JWT both. I am not "up JWT's ass".. matter of fact.. Scott is going to be tuning a few ECU's for me.. and helping tune a turbo Spec V for me as well. I am simply saying that the tuning ability of each of these people.. is great. If that upsets you so much.. then you need to have your head examined..

And you don't need to play "big bad moderator".. There's no need to disrespect me just because you have those powers. I didn't attack you.. or your credibility.. so I don't appreciate you doing it to me. It makes you look ignorant, honestly.

Jeff240sx
10-05-2004, 09:49 AM
Big bad moderator? Your lack of control (and others who kept up the arguement) sent Scotts harmless post down the shitter, and Scott locked it. I don't want this crapped up with bullshit until I get free time and can prune/add info.
I'm not upset, other than the fact I already brought this book-of-a-post up on Tamparacing, and it apparently didn't even make you think about it. You are simply posting the same stuff you had before. The only thing in my post that can be construed as "disrespect" is when I said "We aren't talking about camshafts.. or anything else. Simply ECU tuning here." Clark may be a great guy. That's well and fine. He may design badass cams. Hell, I'm running JWT cams and waiting for my cam gears. The cam gears could be a bit better, ala AEM with sliding adjustment, rather than tooth by tooth, but it's not a gigantic deal. What is, however, is the subject of the debate, and the 40hp gained by an ecu that "only has a couple changes over something I'd [Scott] would ship out." I feel that I provided enough first-hand knowledge and examples in my post. And since you're friends with Clark, why don't you ask him to make better tunes. Do you know how much money they would make by offering a "race tune" or something along those lines. Pick up 20hp, and still have a 20hp safety margin. Slightly more agressive timing. I understand that JWT was the first to write these programs. When the first SR swaps were being done, JWT KA ecu burn to the rescue. When the first turbos were blowing up KAs. JWT ecus to the rescue. But to have what seems to be a dinosaur of a program running these cars that are no longer shady-tree mechanic turbo kits. We now have 10 turbo kits. 3 or 4 equal length manifolds. Basic ways that are tried and true to make power. JWT could take a couple people's cars and write better programs. Put a warning on them that says "Should only be installed on well-working motors, not responsible for blown motors, ect" and sell them. If I didn't live in Tampa, and JWT came out with a new program, I'd be the first to pay $200 or $300 for a reburn that would net nearly 20hp.
I didn't mean to come out on the attack, and in my eyes, still don't see it that way. I was simply saying that this needs to be in a different thread if you'd like to debate the merits of JWT and Scott. And as you can see, I'm the first to debate someone.
-Jeff

zey
10-05-2004, 12:44 PM
Hey wassup guys, still new to this engine stuff but not to the whole 240 scene. I was going with a ca18det but a buddy of mine made me realize that the ka has better torque. And don't we all love more torque. So I start doing my research on what would be needed to be done to get 300whp. From what I found, I understand that I would be good with rods, pistons, turbo, ecu, standalone, fuel pump, catch can, injectors, z32 maf, and some cams. Please let me know if I missed something. Now I was wondering which z32 maf. The turbo model? Again I don't know much about this! I know it's the upper. Upper, plenum, turbo? or Upper, plenum, exc. turbo? Pipe or no pipe? I did a search on http://www.car-parts.com and got different options which I don't know much of. I also don't know which pistons and rod are good. I found some nismo pistons and rods don't know if those would be the ones I need. I know which turbo to go with I believe it's a t3. I'm a little confused with the whole standalone thing. Sounds like the standalone is like a workaround the ecu, am I correct?

Please only reply with helpful tips!

Edit:
Just saw this post on standalone http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=63874

nightwalker
10-05-2004, 01:32 PM
very helpfull resource here http://ka-t.org/ipw-web/bulletin/bb/ especially since you're new to this stuff.

TurboB15sentra
10-05-2004, 11:07 PM
Big bad moderator? Your lack of control (and others who kept up the arguement) sent Scotts harmless post down the shitter, and Scott locked it. I don't want this crapped up with bullshit until I get free time and can prune/add info.
I'm not upset, other than the fact I already brought this book-of-a-post up on Tamparacing, and it apparently didn't even make you think about it. You are simply posting the same stuff you had before. The only thing in my post that can be construed as "disrespect" is when I said "We aren't talking about camshafts.. or anything else. Simply ECU tuning here." Clark may be a great guy. That's well and fine. He may design badass cams. Hell, I'm running JWT cams and waiting for my cam gears. The cam gears could be a bit better, ala AEM with sliding adjustment, rather than tooth by tooth, but it's not a gigantic deal. What is, however, is the subject of the debate, and the 40hp gained by an ecu that "only has a couple changes over something I'd [Scott] would ship out." I feel that I provided enough first-hand knowledge and examples in my post. And since you're friends with Clark, why don't you ask him to make better tunes. Do you know how much money they would make by offering a "race tune" or something along those lines. Pick up 20hp, and still have a 20hp safety margin. Slightly more agressive timing. I understand that JWT was the first to write these programs. When the first SR swaps were being done, JWT KA ecu burn to the rescue. When the first turbos were blowing up KAs. JWT ecus to the rescue. But to have what seems to be a dinosaur of a program running these cars that are no longer shady-tree mechanic turbo kits. We now have 10 turbo kits. 3 or 4 equal length manifolds. Basic ways that are tried and true to make power. JWT could take a couple people's cars and write better programs. Put a warning on them that says "Should only be installed on well-working motors, not responsible for blown motors, ect" and sell them. If I didn't live in Tampa, and JWT came out with a new program, I'd be the first to pay $200 or $300 for a reburn that would net nearly 20hp.
I didn't mean to come out on the attack, and in my eyes, still don't see it that way. I was simply saying that this needs to be in a different thread if you'd like to debate the merits of JWT and Scott. And as you can see, I'm the first to debate someone.
-Jeff

I wasn't trying to be disrespectful to anyone.. That was never my intent.. Go and read my post.. It's very neutral. Which is why I got upset about your post after what I posted. I wasn't trying to argue with anyone.. just having a discussion.

I agree, that JWT is very conservative. However, just keep in mind, that we are talking about 2 different flow meters.. which respond dramatically to bends in piping.. and airflow. The Cobra MAF is crappy.. I think the reason they chose to use it.. is because it's fairly cheap brand new.. Much cheaper than a Z32 MAF. However, they do have a Z32 MAF program out, and they push it hard.. versus the Cobra MAF program. Every car that I've ever used a Cobra MAF on.. sucked. It had idle issues, and lacked power. So, there may be some issue with that..

I talked to Clark about redoing some of the programs.. and he agrees. Matter of fact.. in the next few months, he will be using Kojima's turbo SE-R to redo the 50, 72 and test the 96lb program(s) out. I like thier 370cc 4-bar setup though.. bored out stock MAF sensor, with 58psi base pressure on the 370's. 300whp on 370's safely. :) That program does work realy well.. I realy do hope that they get these programs worked out.. I know for now.. I am letting Scott tune my ECU's for me.. 40whp is a lot..

Travis

Jeff240sx
10-06-2004, 12:46 AM
Cool. Sounds like we're on the same level. Have them rewrite KA-T programs too, not just FWD SR ;)
-Jeff

TurboB15sentra
10-06-2004, 02:10 AM
Cool. Sounds like we're on the same level. Have them rewrite KA-T programs too, not just FWD SR ;)
-Jeff

I'm sure we're very much alike... I honestly didn't mean anything bad.. I hardly ever start trouble on the net.. I do like to debate things though. Clark is just in over his head... He knows that some of these programs need to be addressed. They just can't get to it all.. I can honestly say that they work about 10-12 hours a day over there. It's hard to get ahold of Clark because he's always stuck behind a soldering iron or a computer screen. I can't even get to him unless it's afterhours. Sucks... and they have so much tallent/skill.. they just can't keep up. I know the feeling..

Travis

AutoRnD
10-06-2004, 10:53 AM
ok.. i have a decent question i suppose...
now i know the maf can be put after the turbo .. but how bad is it? and what would need to be changed? like i've seen on some of the is300 turbo kits.. they just put the maf in the charged pipe.. isnt it going to throw off the maf or will it become more precise?

Jeff240sx
10-06-2004, 03:13 PM
Great question!
That's called blow-through maf, as opposed to pull-through like we all use. Pull-thru is when air is pulled by the motor, or the turbo. Blow through is only done on boosted engines.
These setups seem to be hit-or-miss as far as functionallity. In theory, if you setup a blow-thru and tuned it, it would work wonderfully. The main advantages of this type of MAF is that you can run open-atmosphere blow off valve without the instant-richness that is associated with a pull-through setup. This is because the air in a pull-thru is metered, compressed, and put in the intake piping. The BOV dumps it, but the motor is ready for all that air, and adds fuel. With a blow-thru, the air isn't metered until further down the charge pipes (the closer to the TB, the better to an extent), and bieng vented through the BOV won't affect the a/f ratios. Another advantage is that you can eliminate alot of intake piping and couplings associated with the pull-through maf infront of the turbo.
Disadvantages are making piping for a 80mm z32 or slightly larger cobra maf. The z32 maf I would expect to explode under pressure, because it's very thin, brittle plastic. The Cobra MAF is 3.5" inlet, and 3" outlet, which makes setting up the piping a bitch.
-Jeff

Id-
10-08-2004, 01:44 AM
just something to add because it wasnt in this thread:

stock compression is 9.5:1 on the KA24DE motor, boost to 12-13psi is fine, but going to 15psi is doable but with good tuning, past that point is kinda dangerous on pumpgas...

:)

96twofourty
10-09-2004, 11:37 AM
Hey wassup guys, still new to this engine stuff but not to the whole 240 scene. I was going with a ca18det but a buddy of mine made me realize that the ka has better torque. And don't we all love more torque. So I start doing my research on what would be needed to be done to get 300whp. From what I found, I understand that I would be good with rods, pistons, turbo, ecu, standalone, fuel pump, catch can, injectors, z32 maf, and some cams. Please let me know if I missed something. Now I was wondering which z32 maf. The turbo model? Again I don't know much about this! I know it's the upper. Upper, plenum, turbo? or Upper, plenum, exc. turbo? Pipe or no pipe? I did a search on http://www.car-parts.com and got different options which I don't know much of. I also don't know which pistons and rod are good. I found some nismo pistons and rods don't know if those would be the ones I need. I know which turbo to go with I believe it's a t3. I'm a little confused with the whole standalone thing. Sounds like the standalone is like a workaround the ecu, am I correct?

Please only reply with helpful tips!

Edit:
Just saw this post on standalone http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=63874


you need to research more before even thinking about putting a turbo on your car. You cant get a ecu AND a standalone....and stay away from standalones until you have some tuning experience

woodysmom
10-10-2004, 10:16 PM
i was reading your stage information but wasn't sure whether stage 3 should require a build up.

i'll be running 50lb injectors/to4e turbo/z32 maf/enthalpy ecu - not sure whether my engine needs a build up for 10-12 psi. thanks

zeek
10-24-2004, 09:43 PM
i too wonder if that is required or not

Jeff240sx
10-29-2004, 11:24 PM
From some other guy:
stock compression is 9.5:1 on the KA24DE motor, boost to 12-13psi is fine, but going to 15psi is doable but with good tuning, past that point is kinda dangerous on pumpgas...
This is reasonable enough. A shop hit 401hp on a stock motor. TY hit 18psi and 360 (or so) wheel hp. Many people plug in a JWT ecu and boost to 12-15psi. And Scotts ecu > JWT.
-Jeff

pr240sx
11-10-2004, 08:57 PM
I searched everywhere here on Zilvia and havent found this info.
I finally purchased a turbo (T3 from a volvo 740 AR 42 compressor and AR 63 exhaust) and now I am searching for manifolds

I just want to mount my turbo so I dont really care (dont know the advantages if any) if its top mount or bottom mount. Also I have read about all the SS auto crap manifolds and dont really want to throw my $$ away.
I checked with boost desings but their answers dont really tell me much about fitment.
The project is for a street driven car, no track use whatsoever, pump gas and a 7~10psi max (but looking more toward a max of 7 psi).
I plan to install 370cc injectors, walbro or 300zxTT fuel pump and tune them with either an SAFC or Emanage (even a Accel DFI or FAST computer)
Looking for a budget setup that tops 1500 or so.
What do you guys think?
thanks
193 DOHC soon to be turbo

Jeff240sx
11-10-2004, 11:41 PM
RevHard is proven. I have a buddy selling a used FMax manifold (and I'll lend my reputation to him).
And the SSA isn't bad from what I've seen. TNathe on here has the top mount, and no problems yet. The bottom mount has been redesigned and is supposed to be better.
-Jeff

zeek
11-12-2004, 10:07 PM
also boostdesigns has a great manifold in the works check out ka-t.org for more info

pr240sx
12-03-2004, 12:34 PM
Ok everybody says to use a z32 MAF with a SAFC for proper tunning (at least I am going that way)
Checking on Ebay, ther is 2 models of Z32 MAF, one ending in N60 and the other one in N62

there is a difference between the two
Can I use any one, what settings are for each one
I saw the connector config on a post, but for what MAF is?
As for NA~soon to be turbo. Can I install a Z32 with SAFC before going turbo, test,tune in NA.

As for parts, I have
Volvo T3 turbo (will post pics later)
JGS top manifold

what fuel pump? walbro or z32?
Will get 370cc fuel injectors (will Sr and RB are the same?)
As of now I already spent 350.00 and I am looking for a 5~10 max boost.

95Blue240sx
12-03-2004, 12:51 PM
The MAFS needs to be the one that ends in N62, i dont know where the other one is from. Maybe a Z31. I got mine directly from a z32.

As for fuel pumps, just get a walbro, brand new is ~90-100, you cant beat that. Is this for a s13 or S14? If it is for a S14 there is only one place that i know of that sell the correct kit for the S14 fuel pump, http://ftfmotorsports.com/1924255lphhi.html , Thats the place. It's a little pricey, but you wont starve the motor if you are near empty.(info from FA faqs)

pr240sx
12-03-2004, 09:45 PM
That will be a S13
I was checking the turbo exhaust housing I notice some small cracks around the stock wastegate port. Although very small,dunno if that will be detrimental in anyway.
Also I heard that some guys are using external wastegates as blow off valves. What benefit, if any, does that?
I may need to relocate the MAF (for simplicity sakes) so is a blown thru setup, any tips on this. I have searched here but havent seen any other benefit other than the simplicity of the piping.
I will post pics of turbo crackso you guys can check them out

95Blue240sx
12-04-2004, 10:05 AM
Why would you use an external wastegate for a blow off? That is not its purpose. Use a wastegate as a wastegate, use a bov for a bov. Simple as that.

shane_lxi
01-22-2005, 12:48 AM
This question was asked, and answered in a different form then I was looking for earlier. There are plenty of s14 turbos out there, boost designs, hks, xs, and elcheapo ebay kit. I drive a '90 s13 with a ka24de swapped into it. Now, the only issue making the s14 turbo not work with a s13 is clearace issues with the engine bay (atleast that's what I gathered from the earlier post). I got advice on another forum to piece together my own turbo frankenstein style. I have read atleast 7 threads on how turbos work, the cycles of turbo etc etc. I know enough about how turbos work, but I have no way to be sure I have the ability/knowledge to piece together my own turbo. With my luck I would forget something, and get bad rodknock, or blow my motor.

* Would I be able to buy a turbo kit for the s14, and buy some parts to elimintate clearance issues?
* What are all the parts I'd need to frankenstein a kit, and where can I buy each piece?
* Is it more cost effective to swap in a jdm motor (sr20 or ca18) then to turbo my ka?

I do not aspire to gain insane boost levels simply peicing together a makeshift el cheapo kit. I just want a base to build off, to get started. So I don't need the best crap on to start out, but I don't want to sacrifice every ounce of quality to put a kit together for $700. I know tuning is expensive. Thank you, and flame if you must, just a boost n00b with a question.

95Blue240sx
01-22-2005, 11:06 AM
Goto page one, and see DoriftoSlut's post. He lists all the parts there. Just read. I dont think you should have any fitment problems because the 91+ s13s came with a dohc. I've seen people run the SSA T25 manifold on a DOHC s13 and the JGS manifold with a t3/t4 without any problems. I'd recommend you buy just piece together the parts, and do lots of research. www.ka-t.org is a great place for more info.

daver903
01-27-2005, 08:28 PM
ok so i was thinking of running emange when i do my turbo setup, but can i get away with just an apexi afc? i was gunna use a t25 turbo from a sr20, walbro fuel pump, injectors from a rx-7 (550cc i think. i know its those are to big but im getting em for free),i will doing matience on the car soon with a 300zx fuel filter and taking care of the spark. will that be a safe setup with a smic from a sr20 also? what kind of power can i expect? i have done my research and just finializing plans and getting a plan before i start purchasing. i will be using the ka24e :yum:

95Blue240sx
01-27-2005, 08:39 PM
Yes, a SAFC will work. That setup sounds good, cheap, and simple. Expect about [email protected] ~7psi. I dont think going higher than 7psi will be a good idea on a stock smic.

Dante319
01-29-2005, 12:53 PM
I read on the KA-t forum that for every psi you should retard half a degree. Which brings me to my next question.I plan on 7 psi with an E-manage 370cc, walbro and T-28 from S14 etc. So base timing is 20 degrees right how do I retard timing to be 16 degrees?, and is anyone here running the hacked maf from the 240sx? I thought our stock maf was good to like 10 psi ? Just LMK.
Thanx

95Blue240sx
01-29-2005, 09:14 PM
There are a couple people running hacked mafs on this board. The way you retard timing is through the distributor. Loosen all 3 bolts holing the distributorand then unplug the TPS. Get a timing light. Search a little theres a write up somewhere here.

240SXS-14
02-15-2005, 05:49 AM
I was wondering if anyone knew what mods to do first on my engine. my car is 97. Someone told me that I need to get a timing chain guide update done and the valve adjusted. Is that normal for an engine with 64k on it?

please help

240SXS-14
02-16-2005, 06:55 AM
AEM just came out with their new stand alone plug and play computer for the S-14. I have it on my list of things to get for my car. I plan on turbo charging the stock ka24de. I have seen them handle 300hp to the wheels no problem with high mileage.

I am not sure what size turbo I will go with yet but I want to run an external waste gate. What is a good turbo to start out with?

NemeGuero
03-01-2005, 12:39 PM
isn't the standalone AEM unit a bit excessive for 300whp? wouldn't an apexi s-afcII work just as good for your needs and be a helluvalot cheaper?

AutoRnD
03-10-2005, 10:20 AM
ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs...
the map sensor kicks but..
also. i ran an arc fmic for a s13 sr20det
and it bolts up great...
just needed to modify the turbo outlet side other than that it fit on intake manifold pretty well..

Maeda
04-15-2005, 05:38 PM
Goto page one, and see DoriftoSlut's post. He lists all the parts there.

Thats my post on Dorifto's computer.
Lindsay hates KA's. :fawk:

Emanage info is up for you people that don't like JWT ecu's or Safc's... (seperate thread)
HERE (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=68205)


Stand alone is ALWAYS a good idea. If you have the money for tuning and what not. You get complete and total control of the motor and its functions and that cannot be matched by any piggyback.

300RWHP can easily be done on a piggyback or a standalone.
Although the timing issues with a piggyback make standalone a little better option.

zeek
04-28-2005, 07:06 PM
I choose Enthalpy ECU tuning...

ledzeppelin240
05-12-2005, 11:12 PM
I am currently rebuilding a KA24E to be turboed. So far I have started on the cylinder head and for anybody interested SI Valves has some good valve terrain components for both KA24DE and KA24E as well as many other applications.

I am using the "Swirl Polished" performance series valves. They have an undercut stem, Chromed stems & Stellite tips as well as fully swirl polished. Thier Manganese-Bronze Valve Guides are also high quality and awesome guides.

The web site is: http://www.sivalves.com/home.html

Biggamehit
05-14-2005, 08:32 PM
Stop fucking asking questions in these threads.
-Jeff

vinhisbored
05-26-2005, 11:48 PM
Stop fucking selling things in this thread.
-Jeff

Jeff240sx
06-30-2005, 01:35 AM
THIS THREAD IS FOR ANSWERS TO QUESTIONS ONLY! IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION, MAKE A THREAD IN THE FORUM!
-Jeff

Mervyn
07-02-2005, 04:28 PM
wow sweet, i like this faq

spectator
07-14-2005, 08:59 AM
I'm a fucking idiot who can't read, and needs to be ridiculed publicly. Maybe, at some point in the future, I will cease to suck, and comprehend gigantic bold letters before making a post.
P.S. I suck.

96twofourty
07-18-2005, 01:14 AM
im new to fixing cars up. im more into sound systems, but having a 240 was my high school dream until i had kids so i couldnt have one. but now theyre about 3 years old now, had a little money to burn so i finally got one, its a 95 240sx. couple of questions folks, hope y'aLL could help out. I know that i have a KA engine, but I wanted to go a little faster, any recommendations besides the sr20 swap? i tried looking around for a turbo kit, i saw one on ebay from sschrome, but i heard so much bad stuff about it. need ur help!!! thanks in advance

read TWO POSTS above you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SochBAT
09-04-2005, 11:52 PM
Hey Jeff, how about a SOHC KA-T Sticky?

Just for me, pretty please? :wiggle:

veilside180sx
09-25-2005, 09:11 AM
These are the Prerequisites to building a DOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.



Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body

Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage


Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.


Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.

Fuel Control
SR 370cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM

Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.

Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.

Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.

Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.

Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open.
FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core.
Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though.
Exhaust 3"

Block Internals
At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so.
Forged Rods
Forged Pistons
Stock Crank
Plus your typical rebuild items.


Fuel Control
Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel.
720cc Injectors.
Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.

Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.

Turbo Manifold
Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered.
Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel.
FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range.
Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels
Exhaust 3" or larger

Fuel Control
720cc-1600cc Injectors
Standalone Fuel Management
Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow.
Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring.
Dyno tuning is very valuable.

Block Internals
Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list
Cams (per your discretion)
Build your head as well
Valve Springs
Valve Retainers
ARP Head/Main Studs
Cometic Headgasket or similar


Absolute turbo necessities...amongst the aforementioned goodies above.

Oil Lines (Picture of good return location)
http://northwestnissans.com/photopost/data/500/3509oilpanbung.jpg

Boost gauge

Here's lists of aftermarket products that are currently on the market

Turbo Build Parts:

Turbo Manifold (Exhaust Manifold)


Ground Zero Motorsports

http://www.importwerx.com/PIC/KAmani.jpg

Full Race

http://northwestnissans.com/photopost/data/500/5948turbo_manifold_fullsize.jpg

Peak Boost (release date TBD)

Revhard

Turbo240.com

http://northwestnissans.com/photopost/data/500/5948manifold10-med.jpg

JGS Precision

Realnissan.com

Import-AutoPerformance.com

http://home.att.net/~MabuhayCarlos/IAP1b.jpg

Nizzx.com

http://www.nizzx.com/Turbo%20components/Turbo%20mfld%20KA24E%205.JPG

SSAutochrome (not recommended)


BOV

Tial
Greddy RS
JGS
HKS SSQV

Wastegates

Tial

http://northwestnissans.com/photopost/data/500/3509tial.jpg

JGS

http://northwestnissans.com/photopost/data/500/3509jgswastegate-med.jpg

Turbonetics

Block Internals

Pistons: Can be accomplished one of two ways, by purchasing ones that are made for the E with their intended compression ratio. The other is to use DE pistons and subtract a full compression point to equal the difference between the E and DE head. (ie 9:1 DE pistons will be 8:1 in an E)

Arias 8.8:1(DE)
Wiseco 9:1(DE)
JE 8.5:1
Ross 8.5:1(DE)
CP 9:1(DE)
Supertech 9:1

Rods: Any rod that will fit the bottom end of the DE will work with E as well.

Crower
Pauter
Carillo
Eagle (release tbd)

Bearings

Whatever your preference is for rebuilds. Mine is Clevite.

Headgasket

Cometic

Valves

Supertech Dual Valve Springs
SI Valves
Ferrea Valves

Retainers

Supertech Titanium Retainers

Cams

PDM Racing
Nissan Motorsports
Colt Cams
Crower
JWT Technology


Typical Injectors Used on DOHC

SR 370cc Injectors
SR 480cc Injectors (S15)

SR Upgrade Injectors are available in various sizes between 550cc-720cc as side feed, anything larger usually you'll want to switch to a top feed fuel rail and injector combination.


Injector Resistors (To alter low impedence to work with a high impedence ecu)

JWT Technology
JGS Precision

DP_Michelle G
09-25-2005, 02:55 PM
Hey Jeff, how about a SOHC KA-T Sticky?

Just for me, pretty please? :wiggle:

yea jeff add a sticky for the kae-t's :bowdown:

veilside180sx
09-25-2005, 04:34 PM
There already is. It's two posts below this!

graham
09-30-2005, 12:16 PM
"ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs..."

there is one problem with a map sensor that a maf doesn't have. as the engine wears, vacuum decreases, but the map sensor continues to read it the same. Your ecu can compensate to a degree, but a maf sensor is much more accurate. you wouldn't use a carbeurator on a fuel injected engine (well some people might, but you lose any chance of having mileage and performance from the same engine), so why use a map when you can use a maf?

jdm538
10-17-2005, 09:42 PM
Are you stupid? Or just too lazy to read the giant bold post.
Don't post questions unless you're posting the goddamn answer!
-Jeff

krustindumm
11-03-2005, 08:29 AM
SSauto manifold - http://www.planb-attack.com/kyle/group-buy.htm

When you buy a kit like the Fmax(turbonetics) or Greddy, what is the ratio on the RRFPR?

I would think adding a RRFPR in a 1:1 ratio to any kit would ease in the tuning department. Correct me if i am wrong, but for ever 1 psi of boost the fpr goes up 1 psi. In turn when tuning you are not having to sort of max out the piggy back at each rpm.

The rates on the FPR's they sell are usually adjustable from 7:1->12:1, IDK what they ship with. Stock FPR is 1:1, that's why it gets a vacuum signal.

Jeff240sx
11-03-2005, 10:51 AM
"ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs..."

there is one problem with a map sensor that a maf doesn't have. as the engine wears, vacuum decreases, but the map sensor continues to read it the same. Your ecu can compensate to a degree, but a maf sensor is much more accurate. you wouldn't use a carbeurator on a fuel injected engine (well some people might, but you lose any chance of having mileage and performance from the same engine), so why use a map when you can use a maf?

Here, I'd like to discuss this a bit. My car.. for 10,000 miles, has pull the same -22in/Hg. Previously, for 22,000 miles, I pulled 20in/Hg. The vacuum of the engine will be the same until your timing goes out of whack.. then it will change enough to screw up your settings. There are very few other reasons that you will lose vacuum, and they are pretty serious. Like a dramatic loss of compression.
1-2in/Hg won't really mess up the tune to any significant point. And for a higher loss of vacuum, you can ALWAYS retune it.

The major disadvantages of a MAP are 1) you need a IAT sensor. We have one, so this isn't really an issue. And 2) when you do a major upgrade that affects the vacuum or changes the power band - you need to do a full retune.
-Jeff

theicecreamdan
11-08-2005, 10:42 PM
http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

KA dry sump oil pan.

stuckatcuse2
11-23-2005, 12:27 PM
One reason they may use the cobra MAF is resolution. The ECU uses A/D converters that have a certain number of "steps" per volt. SO... if the Z32 maf maxes out at say 3.2 volts (rather than 5, because they don't use the extra 200HP worth of air flow) the ecu uses only about 64% of its full scale input voltage. Now take the cobra maf, which needs to have values subtracted to stay within HP limits. The ECU now uses 100% of it's input range and either the low or high end is compromised a bit. So with the z32, unless you are making 545 HP, then you are effectively constraining the steps in airflow possible over you're entire power range and are compromising over the entire power range. The cobra however does this only at one end of the spectrum (probably the low end). In otherwords, you'll be able to more precisely tune fuel and timing for a given airflow with a cobra maf than with a z32, up to a certain power level.

SimpleS14
11-23-2005, 12:32 PM
http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

KA dry sump oil pan.

What is the advantage to using this?

tryiian
12-15-2005, 05:42 PM
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm

blazn240sx
02-05-2006, 02:06 PM
what u think i can make
bottom end: crower rods, 9-1 supertech pistons with swain coating, slight bore 90mm, and crank and everything balanced
head: ported intake manifold, supertech valves, supertech spring and retainer, altima intake cam and 91 240sx exhause cam, 72lbs msd injectors, jwt fuel rail, aeromotive fpr, cobra mafs, jwt ecu, also a cometic head gasket
turbo stuff: t3/to4e, jgs exhaust manifold, and apexi gt spec intercooler

krustindumm
02-17-2006, 04:39 PM
One question I was unable to find an answer for...

What is the thread size of oil pressure switch (to T into for an oil feed).

I was ASSuming 1/8" BSPT, but it doesn't look correct.

Jookmasta
02-23-2006, 09:34 AM
the oil pressure sender switch does thread into a 1/8th BSPT hole.............

Realchaos1
03-02-2006, 05:11 PM
One question I was unable to find an answer for...

What is the thread size of oil pressure switch (to T into for an oil feed).

I was ASSuming 1/8" BSPT, but it doesn't look correct.

I bought a new sensor and just matched it when I was fitting the oil T's. :D

jmizell2
03-06-2006, 09:50 AM
Doesn't someone make an oil pan fitting that doesn't require welding?

95Blue240sx
03-08-2006, 03:56 PM
Yes, Russell makes a little oil return fitting kit. it is a -10an fitting with pipe thread on the other side. Includes gasket and nut. Ill double check the part number when i get to work, but im pretty sure thats it.

Found it. Russell # 697100 Oil pan flange, adapts a male -10 AN to any oil pan, zinc plated steel, includes gasket and mounting bolts

It was on their website, no pic, I will still double check at work.

Realchaos1
03-09-2006, 09:45 AM
Doesn't someone make an oil pan fitting that doesn't require welding?

JimWolfTechnologies SHOULD sell an aluminum oil pan.

gsx__r
03-12-2006, 02:43 PM
can a 89-94 ka24de the ones on s13s the manual transmission fit on the new ka24de the 95-98 cause my friend is selling a manual transmission with everythin from the old ka24de n im sick of this sissy a.t. on my s14

EchoOfSilence
03-12-2006, 02:46 PM
Indeed it does. but you'll have to extend a few wires and make sure you have the correct sensors. there's quite a few threads on this

Actually, search for NemeGuero's write-up on exactly this. I was there.

gsx__r
03-12-2006, 02:57 PM
Indeed it does. but you'll have to extend a few wires and make sure you have the correct sensors. there's quite a few threads on this

Actually, search for NemeGuero's write-up on exactly this. I was there.

so the tranny can bolt on without any major modifications im not worried about the wiring or anything i just wanna know if the transmission can bolt on directly

sunnys14
03-12-2006, 03:42 PM
tranny bolts up fine, i am using a s13 manual tranny on my s14, the only problem i ran into was the dust cup at the rear of the tranny, i couldnt use the s13 one so i just cut it off.

gsx__r
03-12-2006, 05:11 PM
tranny bolts up fine, i am using a s13 manual tranny on my s14, the only problem i ran into was the dust cup at the rear of the tranny, i couldnt use the s13 one so i just cut it off.

thanx for the confirmation, now i gotta get some elbow grease

gsx__r
03-12-2006, 05:19 PM
k im gonna buy it ill show pics of my swap should take me about 2 days to get her done.....

NismoRB240
03-27-2006, 07:57 PM
manifolds (feel free to steal the list and add more)

etdracing http://www.etdracing.com/manifold/manifold6.html
revhard http://www.revhard.com/castmanifolds.html
phat ka-t http://www.phatka-t.com/s13manifold.htm
ssautochrome check ebaymotors
jsgtools kit http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html
iap http://www.import-autoperformance.com/manifolds_access.html


just heard of this one but don't know quality I imagine great for a cheap build with like a T25 or T28 http://www.xo2racing.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=4_39&products_id=693

kahlistrophic
03-29-2006, 05:32 AM
Edit: Fuel pumps are a MUST when going KAT. Read Jeff's post below this one for more info.

Hacked MAF is also a good option that requires NO ECU mods or piggyback fuel systems. All you do is stick your maf sensor element in a larger tube (size depending on injector/turbo size). a good size to use with 370's is ~2.6ID tube when running 250rwhp or below. some people have run up to a 3"ID with higher numbers.



Ok, just to clear up what your saying on this.......
you say you can run ONLY a hacked MAF and injectors on this power goal, that is without any safc or management. I would imagine the less stress at this point with less power but how is the cycle of the injectors properly controlled?

Also, the very mild power adder from the ka-t.org suggestions do not run any ic's, any thoughts on this?

Forgive me If this isnt put together as it should be:bowdown:

Nizmo240_22
03-31-2006, 05:29 AM
I would imagine the less stress at this point with less power but how is the cycle of the injectors properly controlled?
With the mafs element inside a larger diameter tube the ecu is "tricked" into thinking less air is coming into the engine, thus adding less fuel when you have higher flowing injectors. Simple math really.

Also, the very mild power adder from the ka-t.org suggestions do not run any ic's, any thoughts on this?

Forgive me If this isnt put together as it should be:bowdown:
It's not recommended by any means. Lacking an intercooler will only premote chances of detonation so this should only be attempted on very low boost levels. Hardly anybody attempts this for a reason. Sidemounts are so easy to come by these days.

EDIT: Sure you can tweak the inner diameter of the intake, but timing control is still left alone. I wouldn't attempt high power without some kind of timing control. Fuel management is the most important part of your setup if you don't want it to go boom.

druthafoo
04-02-2006, 05:11 PM
is the ssautochrome manifold really not recommended? The 692 HP SR powered 240 here in blacksburg uses an ssautochrome mani and IIRC has not given him problems. I have the ss mani right now but am not using it.

blu808
04-02-2006, 05:24 PM
The main reason ss autochrome has a bad rep is because their manifolds are mass produced which resulted in lower quality control (if any) many people had fitment problems initially which they seem to be getting better with.

I think the main reason they recieve a bad rep is due to their material thickness, design, etc. Which usually ends up in the manifold cracking. Aparently they didnt calculate the thermal expansion of the stainless when designing the manifold.
If your building a all around street car. Try to get a cast iron manifold. That will last the longest.

If your building a high hp track car, Have a inconel manifold made.

swvadrift
05-15-2006, 08:47 PM
Alright guys i'm comming from the DSM world and have an evo 3 16g turbo just sittin in my room. I searched this thread and didn't see the answer I was looking for. If I were to use a Mitsu turbo with a custom manifold where would I run the coolant inlet, and outlet lines from? Or can you even use a water cooled turbo?

integra22
09-06-2006, 12:31 AM
Peakboost http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/hobtukit.html
Neukin http://www.neukin.com/nismanifolds.html
Bothing companies make a top mount turbo manifold for the ka motor. But there both only for dual cam motors

punxva
09-06-2006, 07:40 AM
Hey if u check out the chat forum also, Megan Racing is making a new top mount t3 and bottom mount t25 manifolds. Just another option than getting the SSAC, also JGY.cc makes a pretty nice manifold for a t25/t28 setup

peterkim0121
09-12-2006, 02:06 AM
i have seen t3/t4 turbo kit from ebay

but the kit wont come with elbow pipe..

does anyone know where the heck i can get that?

!Zar!
09-25-2006, 03:02 PM
i have seen t3/t4 turbo kit from ebay

but the kit wont come with elbow pipe..

does anyone know where the heck i can get that?

Megan Racing has a elbow.

I also suggest picking up their flex pipe.

So far they are the only two parts megan racing makes that I would suggest.

But that top mount manifold they are working on does look decent.

Ryencool
10-03-2006, 03:37 PM
anyone know where and when I can get the new megan manifolds?

NemeGuero
10-03-2006, 03:43 PM
using the search function works

Ryencool
10-03-2006, 06:20 PM
um you put it megan and see what comes up...tried to sift throught it, thought somone might have it bookmarked. I've been on many diffrent boards for 8+ years and there always somone like you. How bought save the 15 seconds it took you to write that and pull those anal beads out a little early.

NemeGuero
10-03-2006, 08:41 PM
Why not try a better search? lol

I like the anal beads where they are, thanks. ;) haha

!Zar!
10-04-2006, 12:54 AM
A nub is still a nub, no matter the post count.

Because obviously you still haven't learned the skill to search.


And wtf are you asking where you could buy something? This is supposed to be a faq thread.


Evan: So you have my beads? WTF?!


And since this is a faq thread, it took me 4~ hrs to make my car na to smog.

Reason #157017 why ka>sr

turboeic
10-24-2006, 05:39 PM
hey im having a problem on my setup KA-t with sr20 t28 turbo. the car works fine but i can't boost it past 4psi. i bought a mbc(forged) and it just goes to 4psi anything would help thanks`

!Zar!
10-26-2006, 09:59 AM
Have you tried to run without the mbc? Connect the line directly and see if you can boost any higher.

Is the boost fluctuating?

Uisce
11-01-2006, 02:32 PM
FWIW, I've had the SSA bottom-mount T2-flanged manifold on my car for a year and a half without even the slightest problem. The car sees some daily driving, but it is primarily a track car. It has been through some pretty severe conditions (track-days with 115+ ambient air temp), and held-up just fine.

From my experience, all tube manifolds crack eventually. I've seen cracks in a stainless manifold that was built by a guy who has built IndyCar manifolds for Burns Stainless.

This manifold has lasted long enough, and was cheap enough, that if it cracked now I would probably buy another one to replace it.

punxva
01-09-2007, 09:07 PM
well, i found this on another site, so i thought i'd share, i havent tried any of these out, i take no credit in making this guide, im just reposting it for everyone on zilvia, enjoy bitches!!!

ok as requested, heres what each cam comes from...


248 - Altima Intake and S13 exhaust
232 - S14 Intake and Exhaust
240 - S13 Intake




all of the impressions here are based on a 92 s13 hatch, automatic, fully rebuilt to stock by me, except apexi panel filter

i've tried 248/248, 240/248, 248/232, 240/240, and now i've tried 248/240

its been a while since i've tried any other cam swap besides 240/240, and i've never had 248/232 on the automatic car, but i did install it on a friends automatic, and it did net similar results to my manuel car so i feel it's semi-fair to compare

248/248 - is by far my least favorite cam swap. there is a noticable loss in low end, and the motor never rev's high enough to take too much advantage of the additional top end power. I'm not saying the top end isn't there, it just really only starts pulling until right before 6000 rpm, and pulls to 7000. then you hit the rev limiter and crave for a few more revs. maybe an automatic ecu and 7200 rpm mighyt be beneficial, but i love to rev it out and i shouldnt be allowed to have 200 more rpm. if i had a more top end oriented motor 248/248 would be a great thing to have, but until i can afford it, i wont ever use it again. the sound you get from this beast is nice though

240/248 is obviously stock, its been a while since ive actually had a car with 240/248. but from what i remember the low end is decent but it does fall on its face in the top end. the 248 exhaust cam is trying to make top end power, but the 240 intake cam is trying to provide more all-around power, not just low or top end. i dont like it because of how bad it falls on its face before even 6500

232/232 - i never tried, but i got em so i could.... but come on 232/232?

240/240 - has a really snappy low end, probably the best low end ive tried, and its the only times ive ever spun the tires into second gear in the automatic, granted its gotta be wet outside... anywho, 240/240 is what i'm directly compareing to 248/240 here. 240/240 has a nice pull even in the top end, and power is quite prominent in the 4000 rpm area. i'm still a big fan of 240/240 and i'd like to try it on my manuel car, but that car already has the hands down best stock cam swap possible....

248/232 - this is hand-down where its at. If you have some s13 cams and some s14 cams you should have already done this. the power production is great everywhere. you only lose a little bit of top end over 248/248 and you gain more low end than you get with any other swap besides maybe 232/232. the KA craves this swap, it loves the low end and, chances are you only rev to 6500 anyway, so thats why this is the cam sawp for you. only don't do this if you wanna get beat by me. i'm only kidding, i'm too poor to be fast.

248/240 - you read all that crap just to get to here so here it is. coming from 240/240 in a nearly stock automatic car, i'm very disapointed. the only major difference is a slight gain in top end, maybe 2hp, but the loss of low end is noticable. i'd rather have that torque back for this daily driver than the slight bump i got in top end. granted this car is actually proven quicker now than the 240/240 car, but its less satisfying. everyone wants to be put into the back of their seat right away, not eventually.....


240/232 - this is what i just put in my automatic car. im a huge fan of the low end here, and its better than 240/240. the overlap is always off by about 2 degrees or so when you use an intake cam used as an exhaust cam or vice-versa. So for that reason, 240/232 works very nice. i can tell it doesnt have quite as much pull in the top end as 248/232 but its part-throttle driveability is great. you really only feel the low end torque when you are at part-throttle anyways, so you need ot make a decision....

240/232 - is great for a dailydriver, where low end torque is favored over top end merging power. in the automatic, after shifts the car has noticably more power than it does with 248/232. I would say if you have an automatic get the 240/232 because you spend more time in the midrange becasue of your gearing.

248/232 - is for the manuel car. ive gone to and from this cam swap in both cars at least five or six times, and i always come back. its the best there is, and its greater than stock. its ideal for forced induction, and its cheap to do. i can imagine this swap would be even more devestating with a redrilled cam gear.

248/248 - is something im going to look at again with my current setup on the manuel car. (redrilled cam gear, intake manifold, SAFC, 3in exhaust, and dc sports header) it doesnt do any good in the auto, the loss in mid and low end isnt worth it. ive seen a dyno of 248/232 vs 248/248 and the difference in top end is something like 2hp, but the difference in midrange is 6 peak hp and all kinds of torque.....

wangan_cruiser
03-15-2007, 02:02 AM
With the mafs element inside a larger diameter tube the ecu is "tricked" into thinking less air is coming into the engine, thus adding less fuel when you have higher flowing injectors. Simple math really.

It's not recommended by any means. Lacking an intercooler will only premote chances of detonation so this should only be attempted on very low boost levels. Hardly anybody attempts this for a reason. Sidemounts are so easy to come by these days.

EDIT: Sure you can tweak the inner diameter of the intake, but timing control is still left alone. I wouldn't attempt high power without some kind of timing control. Fuel management is the most important part of your setup if you don't want it to go boom.


so u could do all the hacked maf and 370cc intercooled set up without any timing control? but not boosting right? im confused lol

victorw210
07-23-2007, 12:09 PM
what are some good manifolds that have a t28 flange.the only t28 flamged ive seen are ebay manifolds and ssac which are not good from what ive heard

thejapino
09-06-2007, 08:42 AM
For those of you planning to use a DE topmount T3 setup and have a Z31 T3, the OEM turbo elbow points outward towards the shock tower. To buy a simple 7-bolt flange to alleviate this, go here (http://www.blaastperformance.com/index.php?p=7holesbof).

mikey0129
09-19-2007, 10:04 AM
hey guy im new to turboing a 240sx

i have a 1993 s13 dohc and wanting to turbo it out

i wanted to go with the cheap turbo route since im not a baller

so help me out guys

i was thinking... all this items r from fat boy garage in ebay

Bottom mount t25 turbo

turbo manifold

turbo elbow pipe

those 3 items with gasket and screws are $400

and ebay frontmount intercooler with pipings are $200

like oil lines returnlines etc $100

I heard of people just putting this on a stock injectors and stock maf and stock ecu
Whould this setup work with stock maf,ecu,injectors and no tuning ?
Can i just slap dis on and make it run ?
im prob not ganna mess with any boost lvl ill prob have like 7-8 starting right?
and if i wanted more power den i could change out all the injectors,ecu,maf right?

This is my daily driving car so im not ganna be pushing krxy hp
THX for all the help guys

punxva
09-19-2007, 12:55 PM
another good manifold for a t2 setup is the Megan racing one

koukipurples14
09-23-2007, 02:53 PM
okays here my input im not saying that ka24det sucks cuz i was in the process of doing it myself but i sold it cuz all my friends that do it have it for about 2 weeks then the block blows up and not their not boosting its stock 6-7 psi of boost so im just wondering what do u need to do to have a reliable ka-t? that can put 220 hp out and can b daily driven?

turboeic
09-23-2007, 03:51 PM
Tune it. Its all about the For me I don't think a AFC will do it. There's some guy on ka-t.org pushing I think 340 at 20psiwith no internals. So you want reliability get a tune.

mikey0129
09-26-2007, 03:27 PM
hey guys im about to turbo my 240

i was wondering have u guys ever heard about dis kit?

http://www.advancedjdmparts.com/home.php?cat=302

are they and good? thx for the help

mtx450
12-31-2007, 01:30 PM
http://www.frsport.com/images/detailed_images/MeganRacing_SSH-KA24TOP_5.jpg

This is the Megan Racing top mount manifold. I was just wondering if anyone has it, and was there any fitment issues with it. I know you guys only wanted facts in this thread, but this question comes up a lot and I did multiple searches with different keywords and really came up with nothing. I just wouldn't want people to get this manifold if it has issues of hitting the BMC or the shock tower. Thanks fellas.

koifish
01-21-2008, 01:37 PM
sorry please erase

twofortyrida1388
01-23-2008, 09:06 AM
Yo all these ?'s are in the wrong place. That's what your own threads are for. Don't post a ? w/o an anwser. I noticed some new post on the ka24det faq and opened and read these bullshit ass posts above. The mods have stated it a 1000 times not to post questions in these unless of course it has an awnser with it.

KA-T_240
01-23-2008, 10:58 AM
http://www.frsport.com/images/detailed_images/MeganRacing_SSH-KA24TOP_5.jpg

This is the Megan Racing top mount manifold. I was just wondering if anyone has it, and was there any fitment issues with it. I know you guys only wanted facts in this thread, but this question comes up a lot and I did multiple searches with different keywords and really came up with nothing. I just wouldn't want people to get this manifold if it has issues of hitting the BMC or the shock tower. Thanks fellas.

.... Looks way to SSAC style for me. I have heard some decent things about the SR bottom mounts. Not any real feedback on the KA Top mount. But IMO, it looks like they copied SSAC. For the price you pay for that, get a JGS. The starter kit they sell is a awsome deal.

KA-T_240
01-23-2008, 11:00 AM
hey guys im about to turbo my 240

i was wondering have u guys ever heard about dis kit?

http://www.advancedjdmparts.com/home.php?cat=302

are they and good? thx for the help

Parts are probably going to fall apart. They do not even have KA stuff in the pictures.

racer20
02-26-2008, 10:41 AM
There is another company out there car p-fabraction.

racer20
02-26-2008, 10:46 AM
The p fab manifold is good but there not cheap also

240tuned91
01-21-2009, 08:35 AM
hey back on the aftermarket fpr. Jeff i have a fresh rebult ka24de. Supertech 9.1 pistons,eagle rods, clevite bearings, arp studs, and stock head with stock cams. I am also running e-manage blue. However i bought a megan fpr because my old stock one broke. My headgasket took a crap and when i pulled off the cyclinder head. My cometic hg was crapped. Also the water jacket one of them had a crack and there is pin holes from signs of detonation. I figure this might be my piece of crap megan fpr. It backed outt and the adjusting screw got loose. The guy helping me with my car thinks we should get my car tuned (which i agree thats always good) but with the base tune of the e-manage my car should of ran fine. I think the megan fpr made my car detonate. I only have 370's on my car and im going to run about 8lbs when the car is broken in. Should i just go back to the stock oem fpr and i should be safe. I mean my car before this was a stock bottom end but didnt detonate in one day like this. The stock blue e-manage tune should be fine for td-06 20 g turbo,370's, stock maf, stock cams ,9.1 comp pistons?

Hawaiian240
01-21-2009, 09:40 AM
hey back on the aftermarket fpr. Jeff i have a fresh rebult ka24de. Supertech 9.1 pistons,eagle rods, clevite bearings, arp studs, and stock head with stock cams. I am also running e-manage blue. However i bought a megan fpr because my old stock one broke. My headgasket took a crap and when i pulled off the cyclinder head. My cometic hg was crapped. Also the water jacket one of them had a crack and there is pin holes from signs of detonation. I figure this might be my piece of crap megan fpr. It backed outt and the adjusting screw got loose. The guy helping me with my car thinks we should get my car tuned (which i agree thats always good) but with the base tune of the e-manage my car should of ran fine. I think the megan fpr made my car detonate. I only have 370's on my car and im going to run about 8lbs when the car is broken in. Should i just go back to the stock oem fpr and i should be safe. I mean my car before this was a stock bottom end but didnt detonate in one day like this. The stock blue e-manage tune should be fine for td-06 20 g turbo,370's, stock maf, stock cams ,9.1 comp pistons?

This thread is for informational purposes only. Post your question by starting your own thread in the Engine Tech forum.

240tuned91
01-21-2009, 12:50 PM
well i didnt wanna start my own thread i thought i was just add on because they were talking about it but if you insist ok.. and i guess you dont know the answer you just yell at people about where they post lol? cool man

Hawaiian240
01-21-2009, 02:37 PM
POST #110
A nub is still a nub, no matter the post count.

Because obviously you still haven't learned the skill to search.

And wtf are you asking where you could buy something? This is supposed to be a faq thread.

Evan: So you have my beads? WTF?!

And since this is a faq thread, it took me 4~ hrs to make my car na to smog.

Reason #157017 why ka>sr

POST #125
Yo all these ?'s are in the wrong place. That's what your own threads are for. Don't post a ? w/o an anwser. I noticed some new post on the ka24det faq and opened and read these bullshit ass posts above. The mods have stated it a 1000 times not to post questions in these unless of course it has an awnser with it.[/quote]

POST# 130
[quote=240tuned91;2583483]well i didnt wanna start my own thread i thought i was just add on because they were talking about it but if you insist ok.. and i guess you dont know the answer you just yell at people about where they post lol? cool man

???

It's been posted many times(if YOU REALLY READ the thread you would have seen it!). This is a FAQ thread, meaning there is a question AND answer posted. If YOU have a question on how to or what should I do, start your own thread so YOUR specific item can be addressed WITHOUT other things being discussed. It's common sense. As you can see above in the quotes, you posted a question(post #130) that was addressed 5 posts prior(post #125) to yours as something that shouldn't be in here!

And I wasn't yelling, I made a statement and gave you guidance on where to voice your concern properly. I didn't call you names, or say "F'n search" or anything like that. Start acting like the adult you should be and you will be taken seriously. Pop an attitude like you did and your feelings will get hurt and you'll post more stupid replies.

To answer your question, use a FPR that has a good rep. I use have used AEM and Aeromotive in the past with no problems. Some guys run Nismo FPR that bolts right up to the OEM fuel rail with no problems. My current build is going to have a Synapse Engineering FPR, cause I want to see how it does.

If you want simple, just get a Nismo or OEM replacement one. Worked great before! There. Look, I answered your question!

And yes, you should always get your car tuned after replacing things that changes fuel rate(bigger injectors), ignition, compression among other things. I learned this the hard and expensive way.

And, when you freshly rebuilt the block, did you have to deck the block and head? You never mentioned this. If either was/is warped you would get water leakage into the cylinders due to the gasket not sealing well. Excessive water in there doesn't compress well.

So, yes you should start your own thread. Beacause more info needs to be posted to figure out what happened.

nis-son
03-19-2009, 07:31 AM
Has anyone ran the calum realtime ecu on there ka-t I'm thinking bout using that ecu for my setup. I'm aiming for 350 to 400hp

WhiteDevilZ
05-14-2009, 10:12 PM
No one is using nistune? Nistune works wonders for the z31. I will be turboing my ka with in the year and I plan to use nistune.

NIStune - Nissan Realtime ECU tuning (http://nistune.com/)

kissritz
05-17-2009, 05:48 PM
is the the stock ka fuel pump good enough for a t25 set up? maybe 200-230hp or its a must to get the walbro 255??? Cuz i just purchased a new oem fuel pump! doah!

xplicit240
05-20-2009, 11:55 AM
this thread went down hill. but adding my 2 cents. JGY also makes a manifold. also t2 flanged.

72nismo
06-21-2009, 11:29 AM
Can anybody tell me what my oil pressure should be at idle? Fully built KA
RPM at idle are at 750
Mobil Synthetic 5-30 oil.
My oil pressure guage shows 10 lbs at idle. Whe i step on gas pressure goes up. But is 10 lbs safe and correct?

hockeymikey16
07-27-2009, 02:47 PM
does anybody kno where the vaccum lines are supposed to b plugged or removed to?

dstlye559
09-17-2009, 06:09 PM
i have a little question, im wanting to run a basic turbo set up on my KA
and i was wondering do i have to run a rrfpr if im only shooting for 200hp?

also can any recommend a good bottom mount manifold?

thanks guys

RunninMeBrokeS13
10-15-2009, 11:19 AM
http://www.frsport.com/images/detailed_images/MeganRacing_SSH-KA24TOP_5.jpg

This is the Megan Racing top mount manifold. I was just wondering if anyone has it, and was there any fitment issues with it. I know you guys only wanted facts in this thread, but this question comes up a lot and I did multiple searches with different keywords and really came up with nothing. I just wouldn't want people to get this manifold if it has issues of hitting the BMC or the shock tower. Thanks fellas.

yup you will have problems hitting your break master cylinder and its shit. that is the ebay garbage. go with something that will last you.

RunninMeBrokeS13
10-15-2009, 11:21 AM
i have a little question, im wanting to run a basic turbo set up on my KA
and i was wondering do i have to run a rrfpr if im only shooting for 200hp?

also can any recommend a good bottom mount manifold?

thanks guys


rrfpr? im not up to date.

ams offers a pretty nice bottom mount manifold. its going to cost you though.

RunninMeBrokeS13
10-15-2009, 11:23 AM
does anybody kno where the vaccum lines are supposed to b plugged or removed to?


for what? if your doing emissions delete the only thing vacuum you need is going to be your break booster and your fuel pressure regulator. and of course any of your turbo accessories

RunninMeBrokeS13
10-15-2009, 11:26 AM
is the the stock ka fuel pump good enough for a t25 set up? maybe 200-230hp or its a must to get the walbro 255??? Cuz i just purchased a new oem fuel pump! doah!

any kind of forced induction i would recommend getting an after market fuel pump such as the 255 its only another 100 bucks.

RunninMeBrokeS13
10-15-2009, 11:28 AM
No one is using nistune? Nistune works wonders for the z31. I will be turboing my ka with in the year and I plan to use nistune.

NIStune - Nissan Realtime ECU tuning (http://nistune.com/)

i run NIStune. it is the shit. i wouldnt tune with anything else, unless it where a major upgrade. NIStune is so user friendly and easy to use.

RunninMeBrokeS13
10-15-2009, 11:31 AM
hey guys im about to turbo my 240

i was wondering have u guys ever heard about dis kit?

AdvancedJDMParts.com - Performance Parts and Accessories - NISSAN (http://www.advancedjdmparts.com/home.php?cat=302)

are they and good? thx for the help

eBay kit. wouldn't try it...

donofdrift1990
11-27-2009, 09:38 AM
Ok so I need help!
I have my full ka-t setup but I need oil/coolant lines and Idk what sizes I need to get them made. I'm headed to a hydraulic shop today but how do I know what size to tap my oil pan and what thread/pitch for the turbo? Here's what I have;

T2 turbo
Bm manifold
N60 maf
330cc injectors
3in downpipe and elbow
Ebay fmic
Safc neo
Ful catback 3in exhaust
Sunpro boost/oil pressure guages

Basically I need these lines done today so I can have it done next wknd. So help!

Wannabe1989
11-28-2009, 11:16 AM
I just did my turbo kit last month. I used a neukin mainfold (equal length) sc5557 turbo (billet wheel) custom v mount walbro 255 full exhaust synapse bov and 50mm wastgate set at 8 psi. Act clutch and flywheel. Stock injectors and stock fpr what would u guess I'm makin 230-240 whp? And when the motors cold I have to give it gas for about 5 sec and then it will idle fine but if I don't it dies on me. Anyone have similar problem?

Wannabe1989
11-28-2009, 11:17 AM
I'm runnin fmu for now until winter i'm lookin at a nistune or something similar.

blitzsti22
01-17-2010, 11:31 PM
is anybody using the greddy turbo kit for ka24de. im planning on buying it and just need to ask a couple questions to who ever owns one.

TheFirstFrontier
03-31-2010, 01:07 AM
how much hp can a stock ka24de crankshaft handle safely and reliably? aside from b&b, what mods or other maybe forged units are available? thx

eberle
05-03-2010, 01:34 PM
here's what i got...need help

Rebuilt KA using new stock components
New Oil pump
New Water pump
All new gaskets
New clutch master cylinder
New slave cylinder
New steel braided clutch line
New brake booster
New ACT stage 3 cutch and pressure plate
Resurfaced flywheel
Megan aluminum Rad
slim electric fan
Turbo Kit:
Garrett T3 RB20 turbo
Log manifold
custom dump pipe bolting striaght to aftermarket 3" downpipe with flex section
Full 3" bolt on stainless turbo back exhaust
Huge FMIC and stainless piping
knock off SSCV bov
10:1 FMU
stock maf
Walbro 225

iamtheyi
07-20-2010, 02:27 AM
holy shit... I came here to get some more FAQ's to see some more knowledge about KA-T's but all I see are these dumbass questions.

FAIL.

wrcs240
08-19-2010, 08:40 PM
Can you please help me out.I'm stuck and have no idea whats goin on. I've set the crank at zero, the lobes are facing out.sprockets are in tthe right spot and the distributor is on #1. The wires are in the right spot, and itll turn over and start jumping like it wants to start but it just won't.please help me out I've read all the forums and tried everything I've read.

iamtheyi
08-19-2010, 08:51 PM
Can you please help me out.I'm stuck and have no idea whats goin on. I've set the crank at zero, the lobes are facing out.sprockets are in tthe right spot and the distributor is on #1. The wires are in the right spot, and itll turn over and start jumping like it wants to start but it just won't.please help me out I've read all the forums and tried everything I've read.

This is a faq thread. Go learn. Go to the tech section. Go to KA-T.org and post up in THEIR FACT Thread. Stop being a :newbie:

gogoka
09-02-2010, 01:22 PM
so i have an s14 that i let my brother drive cuz he was wit out a car...few months in i find he's been drivin the car wit no oil and its blowin white smoke out the exhaust now im not exactly sure wat that means but i know its not good!!! now im gettin hit wit diff ideas as wat to do...some say rebuild, some say swap, others say sell but most people have no idea wat they're talkin bout...any suggestions would be appreciated!

hang_510
10-27-2010, 12:27 PM
most people have no idea wat they're talkin bout...any suggestions would be appreciated!
:duh:



This is a faq thread. Go learn. Go to the tech section. Go to KA-T.org and post up in THEIR FACT Thread. Stop being a :newbie:
:aw:

waxball88
01-04-2011, 10:13 AM
here's what i got...need help

Rebuilt KA using new stock components
New Oil pump
New Water pump
All new gaskets
New clutch master cylinder
New slave cylinder
New steel braided clutch line
New brake booster
New ACT stage 3 cutch and pressure plate
Resurfaced flywheel
Megan aluminum Rad
slim electric fan
Turbo Kit:
Garrett T3 RB20 turbo
Log manifold
custom dump pipe bolting striaght to aftermarket 3" downpipe with flex section
Full 3" bolt on stainless turbo back exhaust
Huge FMIC and stainless piping
knock off SSCV bov
10:1 FMU
stock maf
Walbro 225


Well..... The stock maf will not take you very far....the FMU will only do so much, you're going to need larger injectors. T3 turbo, so most likely it is externally wastegated, so you'll need one of those. ARP hardware is good insurance.

For starters.

smbonn2005
01-04-2011, 11:13 AM
Well..... The stock maf will not take you very far....the FMU will only do so much, you're going to need larger injectors. T3 turbo, so most likely it is externally wastegated, so you'll need one of those. ARP hardware is good insurance.

For starters.

Definately gunna need at least SR injectors. And the stock RB20 turbo is just a t3 flanged t25 w/ an internal wastegate so he wont need that. And I would definately recomend ARP hardware =)

waxball88
01-04-2011, 01:31 PM
Definately gunna need at least SR injectors. And the stock RB20 turbo is just a t3 flanged t25 w/ an internal wastegate so he wont need that. And I would definately recomend ARP hardware =)
Thanks for the correction, i wasn't aware of the t3 flange t2 turbo for the RB. Don't want to give out misinformation!
Then yes at least sr injectors would be good.

SiDwAyZ240
01-06-2011, 05:15 PM
Is there no moderator for this thread? It's a shame all the usefull info in this thread is impossible to find among all of this other garbage. I think this thread should no longer be classified as a FAQ STICKY.

1sttime240driver
01-18-2011, 05:30 PM
Im new to this website and forum so im not sure if im posting in the right place so please excuse my mistake.

I have and '89 240sx with the ka motor. I just bought it 3 days ago and it makes this pinging noise when i accelerate. I had to get on the interstate to get to work this morning and when i got up to about 65 mph it wouldnt go any faster and the more throttle i gave it the more power i would lose. The car threw some pretty thick white smoke out the exhaust and died. Now when i turn it over all it does is whine.. It sounds like its not turning the cam or the valves but im not sure. Im not very familiar with imports but im learning. Could it be the timing chain? And if so what else gets damaged when that happens? Bent valves?

Please HELP!!!

1sttime240driver
01-18-2011, 09:32 PM
I think my timing chain snapped. How would i know that for sure? What would it sound like? And what else is damaged when that happens? Please HELP!!!

n8RPS13
02-03-2011, 06:29 PM
Can you please help me out.I'm stuck and have no idea whats goin on. I've set the crank at zero, the lobes are facing out.sprockets are in tthe right spot and the distributor is on #1. The wires are in the right spot, and itll turn over and start jumping like it wants to start but it just won't.please help me out I've read all the forums and tried everything I've read.

Re-check that both of your cam sprocket and crank sproket are set to TDC (NEVER turn them independently, always with the chain on) make sure that your marks on the oil pump and the oil pump rod (it connects to the crank spindle and distributor) are lined up the check your distributor is lining up with the oil pump rod. This is very easy there is a thread on this somewher here that links to another forum just SEARCH.

n8RPS13
02-03-2011, 06:32 PM
I think my timing chain snapped. How would i know that for sure? What would it sound like? And what else is damaged when that happens? Please HELP!!!

WTF this is a KAT FAQ thread stop asking stupid a$$ questions that can be found in other threads/forums!!! You would know because your engine would not run anymore and would be TOAST!!!!!

n8RPS13
02-03-2011, 06:33 PM
This thread has been trashed by Newbs again!!! Mods please close this so we can start over!

s14tan
03-20-2011, 02:02 PM
This thread has been trashed by Newbs again!!! Mods please close this so we can start over!


QFT.
:squint:

n8RPS13
03-22-2011, 10:56 AM
Im new to this website and forum so im not sure if im posting in the right place so please excuse my mistake.

I have and '89 240sx with the ka motor. I just bought it 3 days ago and it makes this pinging noise when i accelerate. I had to get on the interstate to get to work this morning and when i got up to about 65 mph it wouldnt go any faster and the more throttle i gave it the more power i would lose. The car threw some pretty thick white smoke out the exhaust and died. Now when i turn it over all it does is whine.. It sounds like its not turning the cam or the valves but im not sure. Im not very familiar with imports but im learning. Could it be the timing chain? And if so what else gets damaged when that happens? Bent valves?

Please HELP!!!

First and foremost that motor is toast!!! Why didnt you check for compression and oil level when you bought it? These are old cars which arent always taken care of. Secondly..........

WTF!!!!! do you people not understand about this being a KADET thread! AGAIN got to the tech forums and ask away or do some searching on your own.

n8RPS13
03-22-2011, 10:58 AM
qft.
:squint:

i second this!!!!

blankman1991
03-31-2011, 10:36 AM
im looking to build my ka-t sad to say im new at this so i have my ka motor fuel pump and injectors and im lost with what kinda ecu and maf and turbo and turbo kit and down pipe etc that i need any ideas?

whitefedorafilms
03-31-2011, 03:00 PM
im looking to build my ka-t sad to say im new at this so i have my ka motor fuel pump and injectors and im lost with what kinda ecu and maf and turbo and turbo kit and down pipe etc that i need any ideas?


Just read the first page. it covers everything you need to know. just to cover the basics... Z32 tuned MAF, TURBO AND INJECTORS DEPENDS ON THE HP, tons of manifold options, just dont trust ebay too much, if its not a walbro you'll probably kill your fuel pump in no time from starving it. if going for big power such as 300+ your gonna want to do the rods, pistons, new gaskets, bearings, clean your block to perfection, and make sure you can put it back together if you take it apart. if you already have running car i would work on its handling before getting into the power issues. Anyways just go to the first page of this thread. but also before you post again read the new members thread so you dont embarass yourself.

M4J0R T0M
04-11-2011, 08:28 PM
Alright guys, need a little advice here. I'm building a KA-t and I've nearly got all my parts together, just have a couple questions about the rest of what I need. I'm going for a mild (low-mid 200's) build using mostly stock SR parts. I'm on a pretty tight budget also so keep that in mind.

Here's what I have so far:
XS Power tubular bottom mount
Fresh T25
XS Power elbow
Blitz 3" dp
2.5" custom exhaust, I know 3' would be better but this one was basically free
24x12x3 eBay FMIC with a bunch of misc piping
stock maf
Apexi AFC Neo
SR 370's
Exedy stage 1 clutch


Things I still need:
Wideband -- What do you guys suggest? LC-1?
Turbo oil and coolant lines -- Where's the best place to get them and how to mount them? I know I have to weld a bung in the pan, but what about coolant supply and drain and oil feed.
Gaskets and studs, will autozone parts be ok for this?
BOV, thinking about getting a cheapy eBay bov.
Walbro pump - probably just get it on ebay.
Would I benefit at all from getting a SR maf? Will it support any more hp than my stock S14 maf?

I'm going to be running all this on a stock KA with about 165k on the clock. It's got good compression across the board and it feels pretty strong and healthy. I want to keep it that way, so I'm gonna keep it under 300whp until I can afford the AMS rebuild kit. Then I'll probably step up to a T3 and turn up the boost.

n8RPS13
04-14-2011, 11:50 PM
Finally someone with a LEGIT KA-T question! LLooks like you are well on your way man! As far as the oil and coolant lines its best to have a legitimate shop to weld in your oil pan line and as far as the rest thats just up to you as far as your setup goes. Sorry I dont really have a good answer for that. You should definately pull your head and replace the head gasket with a Cometic and use ARP head studs and while you are in there might as well replace the timing chain, get a complete kit sprockets and all. I believe cimotorsports.net has some decentely priced timing kits. EGay BOV will work as well. If your going to change the MAF might as well step up to Z32 or Q45 maybe even a Cobra. JWT has a lot of helpful info on their site as well. Im using a lot of their stuff and suggestions as they have been in the Nissan game for awhile! GL man!

Walperstyle
04-18-2011, 07:56 AM
^you don't need a Cometic head gasket. Many guys with high horsepower are running a Felpro. I will be too my first few times.

Reason: If your head and block have been decked and mirrored to each other, then it doesn't matter what you have; so save the money if you can.

ECU tune is most important, and for everyone doing any type of performance, Get a good wideband o2, and stand alone like AEM, Motec, Vipec, Haltec. Sure it costs, but at least you know everything going on in your engine.

Also, if you have the resources, change over to a MAP sensor instead of MAF. Maf's are kinda stupid at the best of times. I would also never trust my engine to an Unknown Ebay BOV or external Wastegate. Thats just me.

-LSD-
08-13-2011, 06:49 PM
Have a little question.
Im almost done with my turbo kit.
this is what i have so far

built ka with 2k miles on it
Oem head gasket
ARP hardwear
Emance ecu (all the rumors...what do you think?)
550s (power enterprise)
z32 maf
t25 turbo (will be water cooled) shooting for 10 psi
JGS oil lines
XS power boost controller with 2 settings.
and asome random stuff

ok what im missing is manifold..i was looking at isis version 2 if im not mistaking...its 200 bucks and seems like people pretty happy with it.
Intercooler, ill run whatever ill find cheap, not planning to run BOV, didnt have it on my previous sr's, everything seems to be fine, what do you think?
FPR...what will you recomend for decent price? im a student = broke as fuck :l101:
Also previous owner claims that there is walbro 255 on the car...idk, cant trust anyone. is there a way to tell walbro from stock? or should i just buy new one and sell the one i have right now?
I will be using stock sr elbow and downpipe, ive heard there shouldnt be any problems with that, i would love to confirm it...any1 using this setup?
Want to discuss OEM headgasket...ive been talking to people who into drag racing, who building high boost (mostly honda engines), they all use oem headgaskets, they saying if anything goes wrong and there is detonation or preignition hg will act as a blow of valve and will let access pressure into coolant, that way its gonna save the motor from rebuilt, but hg wearing out pretty fast. Im not planning to go over 300hp, but i still preferred extra protection, whats your opinion? what do you use?

Also im very curious about blow through set up, it looks like thats what i will be doing, previous owner of the ecu said he was using blow through and didnt have any problems, i was trying to find any info on it...some people saying its good, some people saying its dumb...but ive seeing a lot of people using them on ka-t. I want to hear your thoughts and opinion on this.

thanks for your suggestions in advance.

p.s. looks like this thread is dying, thats very sad...we need more ka-t in 240 community

steezywonders
08-20-2011, 07:51 PM
i was wondering if anyone know if ka24et/ka24det are smog legal in california???

JuniorsSr
09-07-2011, 07:28 PM
I have s14 turbo/manifold/370 injectors/ front mount/piping/255 walbro/z32 mafs still need safc/2 this is for kade I'm only planning on 230-250 rwhp do I need to change head gasket or will it hold up? Thanks

venom2034
09-09-2011, 01:35 PM
once everything is said and done and i have my awesome ka-t setup put together, what are some basic guide lines for tuning the motor. how do i go about this? i cant really find good info on steps to tuning the car. I find plenty on the components but when it comes to tuning there isint much.

NoPistons!
09-26-2011, 08:59 AM
KA-T.org - The Home of 1000+ whp/7 sec Turbo KA's (http://www.ka-t.org).


Depends on what you are tuning with. PFC, MSNS, AEM, EMU, MOTEC, ROM, Seat of your pants safc/wideband....etc......

-LSD-
10-02-2011, 06:56 AM
i was wondering if anyone know if ka24et/ka24det are smog legal in california???

nope:whip:

NoPistons!
10-22-2011, 09:15 PM
Stock is smog legal in california. The rest, you have to know people or pay people to get your inspection pass. ;) $100 under the table goes a long way.

Turbo Nismo
10-23-2011, 01:22 AM
I have s14 turbo/manifold/370 injectors/ front mount/piping/255 walbro/z32 mafs still need safc/2 this is for kade I'm only planning on 230-250 rwhp do I need to change head gasket or will it hold up? Thanks
Lots of ka-t owners recomend to use Felpro hg when your going to be under 400hp. I personally always used Cometic hg, and Im currently using one. I think it could hold 230-250 hp.

Turbo Nismo
10-23-2011, 01:31 AM
Has anyone ran the calum realtime ecu on there ka-t I'm thinking bout using that ecu for my setup. I'm aiming for 350 to 400hp

Im using a DSM ecu, it was really cheap and works awesome. My car has 400hp right know. The ecu has 2 step and anti lag option, data log in, i eliminated the maf and Im using a 3 bar map sensor and much more.

je_decoy
12-08-2011, 01:07 AM
Im using a DSM ecu, it was really cheap and works awesome. My car has 400hp right know. The ecu has 2 step and anti lag option, data log in, i eliminated the maf and Im using a 3 bar map sensor and mucho more.

wanna share on the details?

WolfpackDoc
12-13-2011, 09:00 AM
Just got back from iraq bought a 93 s13 over deployment. Its completely bonestock, What are some good idea's for starting out a build, I was thinking intake manifold, clutch, injectors, cams just a good point to start a build on?

Slims
01-02-2012, 04:38 AM
Just got back from iraq bought a 93 s13 over deployment. Its completely bonestock, What are some good idea's for starting out a build, I was thinking intake manifold, clutch, injectors, cams just a good point to start a build on?

Im guessing your wanting simple upgrade that will benefit a KA-T setup as well posting in this section?

supakat
01-18-2012, 09:33 PM
Lots of ka-t owners recomend to use Felpro hg when your going to be under 400hp. I personally always used Cometic hg, and Im currently using one. I think it could hold 230-250 hp.

Aren't you cursing cometic now?

WolfpackDoc
02-17-2012, 11:56 PM
Im guessing your wanting simple upgrade that will benefit a KA-T setup as well posting in this section?

well im now in afghanistan and it seems that my car is at home and my parts list has just started growing. being deploied and single makes things i want alot easier and having to wait on what i want just doesnt happen. Ive done alot of research on all of it, Thanks for the imput though

Turbo Nismo
02-18-2012, 07:47 AM
Aren't you cursing cometic now?
I was using one and got blewn also, but it was my fault. I didn't resurface the block, I only did it to the head. That's what happens to lazy people like me, "do it once correctly or do it twice". But this time I'm going to RA on both, put the fire rings on the cylinders and use felpro this time.
wanna share on the details?
Sure, you need:
-DSM 2G ECU
-DSM 1G CAS
-Ralliart coilpacks
-3 bar map sensor
-DSM 2G wiring harness

Then you need to cut your tps plug, injectors plugs, coolant sensor, RPM wire and rewire then to the DSM harness on the correct pins. Then remove everything from the inside of the ka's ignition and insert the CAS with its plug and wires. Then get a datalog cable to connect it from the DSM ECU to a laptop and start reflashing it.

je_decoy
02-26-2012, 10:26 PM
I guess getting this on as many forums as possible haha thanks you sir.

Turbo Nismo
02-27-2012, 06:08 AM
I guess getting this on as many forums as possible haha thanks you sir.

No problem. :)

supakat
02-27-2012, 06:14 AM
The more the merry.

lilrookz
06-04-2012, 02:23 AM
looking to boost my ka24de here soon, running a T3/T4 turbo. what ecu tune programs do some of you recommend? i wanna hear your personal experience not what your buddy is running. Im leaning towards Jim Wolf....

Turbo Nismo
06-04-2012, 06:26 AM
looking to boost my ka24de here soon, running a T3/T4 turbo. what ecu tune programs do some of you recommend? i wanna hear your personal experience not what your buddy is running. Im leaning towards Jim Wolf....

Im using a DSM ecu, it was really cheap and works awesome. My car has 400hp right know. The ecu has 2 step and anti lag option, data log in, i eliminated the maf and Im using a 3 bar map sensor and much more.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

driftracerx
06-04-2012, 08:23 PM
thinking of Twin charging a Ka i know it sounds crazy but if an Sr can do it i dont see why my Ka cant ..

je_decoy
06-04-2012, 08:26 PM
yeah you "can" do it but why bother unless your just wanting to say you did it. its just not worth it

driftracerx
06-04-2012, 09:06 PM
yeah you "can" do it but why bother unless your just wanting to say you did it. its just not worth it

True ... it would be more or less be for saying i did it, but on another side the iron-ness of a beefy Ka could actually put out some sturdy numbers , just wish full thinking i guess

je_decoy
06-04-2012, 09:13 PM
its alright man i think everyone thats gone ka-t was thinking about that at one point

driftracerx
06-04-2012, 09:37 PM
its alright man i think everyone thats gone ka-t was thinking about that at one point

lol right on the nail after i went ka-t is when i started thinking about it ...

fl240sxown
06-27-2012, 05:55 PM
I got a noobish question.... Wanting to build up my 95 S14 KA24DE for turbo later on. Just wondering if I can put forged internals Rods and Pistons .40 over basically a built shortblock. And not change anything else until the turbo and head work is done??????

WolfpackDoc
06-28-2012, 12:20 AM
Ive herd of some guys running LS1 coil packs on their ka-t. High boost blows out the spark or something, Just wondering how all that would get wired up to run correctly

shalezzz
07-23-2012, 04:55 PM
Can anyone point me in the direction of a good write up for ka turbo coolant lines? I searched all over Ka-t, and the only one ive sen on zilvia used rubber hoses bypassing the throttle body.

LBK S13
07-25-2012, 01:40 AM
Ok so I may be new to the site but I found this thread by actually typing in KA--T FAQ and I expected to find some questions yes but answers right behind them. I read all 11 pages of this thread and saw a lot more stupid questions then answers.
To contribute to some answers. I have a 91 s13 KA24DE T
I originally bought a used turbo from eBay. That was shit and lasted a few weeks. They warranted it and give another. That lasted a month. I found a localish tuner club and a guy had to t3/4 turbos that had their own problems and I pieced them together and have gotten about 20000miles out of them. I am running the cobra MAF and SAFC with 370cc injectors and I got it tuned more than once to make sure as far as the rest of my turbo kit it was pieced together by buying things similar to a complete kit found on a brand name website. My turbo set up has only given me one problem and that was when a drink spilt on my SAFC and shorted it out. For questions on parts and set ups there is a chat section where you can start a thread. Hope this helps someone

booey13
07-25-2012, 02:39 AM
Can anyone point me in the direction of a good write up for ka turbo coolant lines? I searched all over Ka-t, and the only one ive sen on zilvia used rubber hoses bypassing the throttle body.

Are you using a bb turbo?

LexSan
08-03-2012, 06:35 PM
can somebody help me with a code? its for a bone stock ka. i got 1400 i told its egr related but im not sure what exactly it is. i was told maybe like an egr vaacum solenoid? or just maybe a new gas cap im not sure

roboticnissan
08-03-2012, 06:42 PM
What are you guys hooking your wastegate vaccum too? I have a t28 turbo

supakat
08-04-2012, 04:23 AM
If you have a nipple on the compressor housing, use that. It does not need vacuum, only pressure signal. You can use a true vacuum line. It does not matter.

roboticnissan
08-04-2012, 10:30 AM
Can you explain a pressure signal? I obviously dont have a nipple on the compressor housing or id use it.

supakat
08-04-2012, 10:15 PM
Just get a vacuum line from the IC or tee off from FPR vacuum.

roboticnissan
08-06-2012, 09:34 AM
Ive read fpr is BAD on a lot of sites.

supakat
08-06-2012, 09:47 AM
A vacuum is a vacuum. I have never had any issues. My FPR feed is Tee'd to my MegaSquirt. Even DIYAutotune.com states to Tee from FPR. MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com (http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/maindocs.htm)

je_decoy
08-06-2012, 08:42 PM
^^ if your blowing vac lines its gonna effect the whole system not just the individual unit its hooked to

supakat
08-07-2012, 05:22 AM
Anything hooked up to a turbo motor will see positive pressure unless it has a one way valve like the brake booster.

Bosko
08-14-2012, 10:33 AM
Hey guys, just recently found a used KA24DE on good ol' Craigslist. Its got 125kish on it. Its got everything but the trans on it. He thinks it has a spun bearing, and is selling it for 75$ (block, head + components). Now, this just seems really low to me, so I'm alittle skeptical about its true condition, but I'm in need of an engine for my car, so, should I shell the 75$ and see what all needs done to get it going, and if so, what brands would you guys recommend? I've already started factoring in sr injectors, a fuel pump, and such. Or should I try and find a different one? I'm looking to go for a mildish build, mid to low 200's hp wise, just to be around an SR20's area. I just have no idea where to start, but I have seen the info about the injectors, 255 fuel pump, avoiding Egay, so on, I just have no idea what to expect. So I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction. This is my first build, so I'm trying to go the "prepare for the worst, hope for the best", route.
Here's the link to the Ad if it helps

240sx KA24DE motor and trans (http://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts/3141463355.html)

Just looking for alittle advice, all input is welcome!

roboticnissan
08-21-2012, 05:46 PM
Why is spark plug gap sooo different on everyones builds? Whats the latest on spark plug gap for turbo guys, im at 23 and having issues. That seems hella low

supakat
08-22-2012, 05:01 AM
The reason why it is so different is because of cylinder pressures, fuel, power of the spark, etc. .028 seems to be a good gap for most KA's with distributor systems. I am running .036 with LS2 coils. In regards to your setup, have you tried rewiring the ignition coil with a relay. This helped my setup a lot when I was using a distributor.

240skate
08-25-2012, 06:19 PM
Turn key Ka24det swap & Silvia front end (http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/3221933981.html)

This is going in my car. What do u guys think? Its costing me 3000$ for a turn key swap...

shalezzz
08-26-2012, 06:01 AM
If you have a de already than no, if you have a sohc than it's debatable, but still kinda high for a Kat. You Should have him install it with the price for 3 grand if he's that firm on the price. And is it tuned? It may have never ran good enough to get it on a dyno and now he's jest selling his prob and trying to get every penny he can.

240skate
08-26-2012, 04:50 PM
I have a blown stalk ka right now. Just got the car as a project. Its getting installed for 3k

OiyItsC4ry
09-04-2012, 01:22 PM
How are T3/T4 Turbos on a Ka? Do I still need to have it tuned or do you think I can run it w/o a tune and low boosting?

booey13
09-05-2012, 05:28 PM
^sure you can and it's been done before. Although it's not recommended. If you want it to last get a tune. An safc at the very least.

Jonas00
09-19-2012, 03:44 PM
had a t3 60-1 set up. works perfectly fine. you are going to want a tune ...

ditchs14
09-24-2012, 11:12 AM
hey guys. got a quick question. this is mostly for the guys who are running over 14psi. heres my setup

built forged bottom 9:1
bc 264 cams
bc oversize valves
all arp hardware. im running the old arp headstuds(the 1.9 saturn ones)
t3/04e @ 15psi
hks 740cc


so i blew my first head gasket. was a felpro. took the head off and everything is fine. nothing is warped. i was at the strip and i just got my bee r a few weeks ago. testing out the 2 step... anyway #4 cylinder started burning coolant after my third pass. car has around 10,000 on the new motor. coolant was NOT in the oil.

the gasket had two small holes between cylinder 2&3 and by #4 as well.

so my question is..im going with a felpro again.is there anything i can do to prevent this from happening again? a buddy had the same thing happen to his KA-T(built with t28) after a few thousand. he said that instead of just hand tightening the studs in like it says. he used an Allen key and tightened them down pretty good before putting the head back on. haven't had a problem since. also i saw that on arp's new stud kit for the KA it says you can use locktight but you must torque the head down before it sets. soo any tips

brandonc108
11-21-2012, 07:01 PM
What do you guys think of this kit?
cxracing.com: Newly Released Complete Turbo Kit for 91-94 Nissan S13 240SX with Stock KA24DE DOHC Dual Cam Engine (http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=TRB-KIT-S13-KA24DE-IC-KIT&Category_Code=TRB240)

240 bro
12-19-2012, 05:20 PM
hey guys,im pretty new to the whole forum thing but my names biagio, i have a 1993 240sx se,its a Ka24de pretty much stock aside from intake, exhaust and finally coilovers, anyway i was wondering if i someone could help me, im really interested in saving money for a whole turbo setup but i cant get a solid price because i dont know everything i need. could someone give me a complete list of everything id need to put on a stock 240 to have a complete setup, thanks

One_love_silvia
01-23-2013, 01:20 PM
what size fitting did everyone get for the turbo oil lines that gets welded onto the oil pan? anyone know stock sr20 thread size and pitch?

chuki monsta s13
01-31-2013, 06:00 PM
Hello everybody i have a ka24de with a t25, walbro 255l pump, n60 maf, 370cc injectors, smic, xs manifold, sr downpipe and elbow, Enthalpy ECU for 91 octane and stock FPR

NOw we retarted 15 deg BTDC, when we start the car it idles fairly high, i read the wideband gauge it reads crazy lean. We checked for vacume and boost leaks but none, we noticed when we spray starter fluid in the MAF the car idles perfect for a lil bit then goes lean. I am stumped any wise words would help.

thanks

kevmeistah21
02-10-2013, 09:06 PM
I got a s13 ka24de, i removed the "PCV TREE" and now i'm wondering what to do it with it? Im going to boost it so i have a catch can as well. Can i have one vacuum line going from the PCV valve to one side of the catch can the the other line leaving the catch can going to the breather on the valve cover? OR have the the pcv and breather off the valvecover tee'd into one line going to the catch can and the other line from the catch can to pre turbo?

EliteDriftProductions
02-28-2013, 05:12 PM
Ok, so I recently purchased a 90 hatch rolling shell, my buddy is giving me his ka24 engine,tranny and ecu wiring harness. He rebuilt it and has about 10k on the new motor. I want to turbo it and am wondering if it can handle pretty good boost on a t28 turbo? Thought about a t3 but I am not 100% on how much the motor can take. Any suggestions on what size turbo or should I just start buying eagle rods, forged pistons, new crank and cams so that I can uprade to a bigger turbo eventually? I am starting to drift so I am figuring should just stay stock for a while then slowly upgrade to all this that I just explained. Let me know if there is a better way of going about this? Thanks!

Oh and I know some of you will say "SR! Problem solved" But I hear KA's are badass built up.:snoop:

mmmS13
03-06-2013, 09:53 PM
I want to turbo it and am wondering if it can handle pretty good boost on a t28 turbo? Thought about a t3 but I am not 100% on how much the motor can take. Any suggestions on what size turbo


t3/t4 50 trim .63 ar beautiful turbo for pump gas, full boost around 3500rpms holds strong until redline. If the motor was properly rebuilt it will hold 15psi easily on a good tune. Im running 11psi on a stock block with 230k miles, proper tune is what makes or breaks a KA.

pkhensley
04-19-2013, 11:14 AM
So what your saying is I can use the 370cc injectors from an sr20 (or any size injectors from an sr) on my KA-T build (single cam btw) ?

josh_schul
04-20-2013, 01:56 PM
t3/t4 50 trim .63 ar beautiful turbo for pump gas, full boost around 3500rpms holds strong until redline. If the motor was properly rebuilt it will hold 15psi easily on a good tune. Im running 11psi on a stock block with 230k miles, proper tune is what makes or breaks a KA.

Hey just wondering what your numbers are... i have the same turbo and am running a similar setup... just curious?

mmmS13
04-21-2013, 10:57 PM
Hey just wondering what your numbers are... i have the same turbo and am running a similar setup... just curious?


I've never dyno'd my car but I should be around 330-340whp (based off of similar setups on Ka-t.org). I'm running 16psi now as well. I think im selling my car but if I keep it I'll dyno it for sure.

driftracerx
04-28-2013, 04:49 PM
anyone know where to get an affordable turbo manifold for my ka-24de

mmmS13
04-30-2013, 12:20 AM
anyone know where to get an affordable turbo manifold for my ka-24de

JGS Log manifold for a T3. Isis for a T2.

If neither of those are considered affordable then you get what you pay for if you go eBay special (DON'T)

Frank_Jaeger
04-30-2013, 09:09 AM
anyone know where to get an affordable turbo manifold for my ka-24de
Find a used JGS log manifold. Good for up to 400hp and will never crack on you.

240low
04-30-2013, 10:33 AM
hey, i wanna go turbo ka but i have some questions on it.. i want around 250-300 whp and i dont know if i should upgrade the internals or not.. i read jeffs assessment on the different stages of ka-t's but how reliable would that be on a stock ka.. keep in mind i am aware of the other mods i would need to have as well, i just want to know as far as engine internals go

driftracerx
04-30-2013, 12:27 PM
JGS Log manifold for a T3. Isis for a T2.

If neither of those are considered affordable then you get what you pay for if you go eBay special (DON'T)

Know where I can order one new?

mmmS13
04-30-2013, 01:03 PM
Know where I can order one new?



JGS Precision Turbo (http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html)

mmmS13
04-30-2013, 01:06 PM
hey, i wanna go turbo ka but i have some questions on it.. i want around 250-300 whp and i dont know if i should upgrade the internals or not.. i read jeffs assessment on the different stages of ka-t's but how reliable would that be on a stock ka.. keep in mind i am aware of the other mods i would need to have as well, i just want to know as far as engine internals go



If the block is healthy I wouldn't upgrade unless youll eventually want 350+hp. Im pushing 16psi from a 50 trim on my stock block that has 230k miles. Its all in the tune.
My build if you're interested in copying/ getting ideas from it
www.ka-t.org :: View topic - mmmS13's Backwards build. (http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=58410)

240low
04-30-2013, 03:54 PM
cool, thanks for the info.. how much power is that producing?

mmmS13
04-30-2013, 04:29 PM
Never dyno'd but I'd say around 330-340whp. If I keep the car I will dyno it for sure.

Sil#2
06-01-2013, 08:39 PM
1997 Stock internals.
10psi.
JGS kit - AGP/Turbonetics .50 trim T3/T04E
Log manifold
JGS400 Wastegate
KA24(D)E downpipe and wg pipe set
550cc injectors
Z32 MAF
Enthalpy Tune - 93 octane
3" fmic
3" exhaust.

218 hp - Does that sound right? They said this Australian Dyno is similar to a Mustang Dyno.

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/mike-2k/photo.jpg (http://s1205.photobucket.com/user/mike-2k/media/photo.jpg.html)

unclewolf82
07-12-2013, 08:13 AM
im building a 93 ka24de from the bottom up. i'm shooting for an hp range of 350 - 400. i've got eagle rods, wilco pistons with a .20 over bore, bc stage 2 cams, bc valves, bc valve springs & retainers, excessice fuel rail, excessive cast intake, excessive SR oil pan. what size turbo should i be looking for along with injectors and fuel pump?

josh_schul
07-12-2013, 09:24 AM
im building a 93 ka24de from the bottom up. i'm shooting for an hp range of 350 - 400. i've got eagle rods, wilco pistons with a .20 over bore, bc stage 2 cams, bc valves, bc valve springs & retainers, excessice fuel rail, excessive cast intake, excessive SR oil pan. what size turbo should i be looking for along with injectors and fuel pump?

You sound like you have spent a good bit of money on the parts you already have... so if you are going to continue the trend. I think a perfect setup would be a Dual BB Precision 5858 turbo(id run Vband if you can too since you didnt mention your turbo manifold), Precision 880cc or larger injectors , Aeromotive Stealth Fuel Pump. You have a promising sounding build sir!

And id also like to just like to say you should consider getting rid of the bc cams for kelford stage 3 instead.... you wont be disappointed.

unclewolf82
07-12-2013, 07:08 PM
i thought about kelford stage 3 cams but this car will also be serving as a daily driver.


Posted from Zilvia.net App for Android

Bambi
07-12-2013, 07:48 PM
Does it matter if you are to keep the butterflies, EGR, emissions, etc. ?

d_nice
07-13-2013, 02:48 PM
oh wow nice tread. good info for me

Frank_Jaeger
09-05-2013, 11:42 AM
1997 Stock internals.
10psi.
JGS kit - AGP/Turbonetics .50 trim T3/T04E
Log manifold
JGS400 Wastegate
KA24(D)E downpipe and wg pipe set
550cc injectors
Z32 MAF
Enthalpy Tune - 93 octane
3" fmic
3" exhaust.

218 hp - Does that sound right? They said this Australian Dyno is similar to a Mustang Dyno.

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb436/mike-2k/photo.jpg (http://s1205.photobucket.com/user/mike-2k/media/photo.jpg.html)
That seems low to me, even for that boost level on a turbo that size.

SolTNtuz
09-25-2013, 08:58 AM
Still kind of new here hope right thread.
Just finished putting a new KA24DET in a 89 240sx.
I have the boost set at zero and the waste gate open and still the stock injectors ( 600cc are ready when motor is broken in and boost is set and heading to tune shop ). My question... The motor has a very rough idle and when I approach a stop the motor stalls. Less than 1 hr and 15 Km on the motor and not over 3000 rpm yet. Does the ECU need to be set up differently? The timing is set to stock specs and not sure what else to do.
Thanks for any help.