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Jeff240sx
09-16-2004, 02:03 PM
Start it. I will delete unnecessary and off topic posts.
This thread should be something along the lines of how hard is the swap, what's required. Power level stages, build ups, cost tally, and power levels. Warnings and things to watch out for during swap, mods.
I figure this will save alot of heartache as noobs can read this thread and not post stupid questions.
-Jeff

MurdarioStomp
09-16-2004, 02:35 PM
Heavy Throttle's SR Swap Guide (best I've seen so far) (http://srownersclub.com/faq/)
this has harness wiring, power steering issues, and troubleshooting sections as well as other very important parts about various other modifications like boost gauges and front mount intercoolers

vanquish2
09-16-2004, 05:32 PM
heres a few basics...

stock boost IS 11lb's
boost w/o solenoid 7lb.
do not boost stock s13 t25 over 14lb. it's useless.
12's are possible on stock turbo

kazuo
09-17-2004, 02:03 AM
heres a few basics...
boost w/o solenoid 11lb.

Explain. I don't get what you mean by that.

REPLACEMENT PARTS (S13 SR20DET RED/BLACK TOP ONLY, UNLESS NOTED):
Oil filter (S13 SR20DET)
15208-53J00
91-94 Sentra SE-R

(S14SR20DET)
95 Sentra SE-R

Fuel Filter
16400-00002
1990-1996 300ZX TT

Upper injector o-ring
16618-53J00
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (small/upper)

Lower injector o-ring
16618-10V05
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (big/lower)

o2 sensor
S13 SR20DET REDTOP: 22690-19P20 ('87 280ZX)
S13 SR20DET BLACKTOP: 95 300ZX TT

Exhaust Manifold Gasket
91-94 Sentra SE-R

4 Hole Turbo Manifold gasket / 5 Hole Turbo Extension Gasket
91-96 300ZX TT (Z32)

Fuel Injectors
91-96 Z32 300ZX TT (purple plugs; 370cc)

MAF
89-90 240SX

Timing Chain Kit
91 B13 Sentra SE-R

Belts (PS, AC, alt)
Gates K050370 Alt.
K040345 PS & most AC

Spark Plugs
91 Sentra SE-R

Water Pump
JDM SR20DET Only

Head Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

IACV Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor:
'91-94 B13 Sentra SE-R

Throttle Position Sensor:
22620-53J00 ('91-'94 B13 Sentra SE-R)

That's all I can think of.

FinalDrive
09-17-2004, 10:01 AM
S14 SR20DET Nissan part numbers:

oil filter 15208-65F00
front crank seal 13510-53J10

Pepperoni
09-17-2004, 01:03 PM
Water Temperature Sensor
Sentra - Goes according to what year your SR is.
Differences are in 91-94 and 95-98
Sentra: 91-94 have a rectangleish plug while 95-98 have a slightly slimmer, more box looking plug.
Redtop and midyear S13 blacktops use a z32 sensor. I believe you should go by year as well if buying a Z32 sensor.
Late S13 blacktops use the Sentra sensor.
KA water temp sensor doesn't work, or at least it didn't for me. (S13 98 Blacktop)

S15 Exhaust Manifold Gasket
(S15 metal gasket vs. stock paper gasket)
Nissan Part #: 14036-75F00

blitz180
09-19-2004, 03:32 PM
The 11lbs without a solenoid thing for who wanted it explained. There is a solinoid that actuates the wastegate, but to my understanding doesn't come with the SR motorsets, because it's mounted elsewhere in the engine bay. So you'd have to get one, use a boost controller, or run the vaccum hose from the nipple on the intercooler directly to the wastegate, bypassing the valve function. Without this solenoid it should run 11lbs.

mjjstang
09-19-2004, 04:06 PM
for those of you who have done you own wiring of harnesses, I have a couple of questions because I dont want to fry my electronics and have to work even more for more money,

since HT is down I cant use that right now, I foudn a way to go there but pics dont work,

wehn I splice the connectors inside the car, I cut the white one off the sr, and splice the brown one from the ka, right? this is confusing me so much because there is also a white connector on the ka, and it is the same exact connector on the sr harness, that I cut, only the wires dont match, but the wires on the brown one do.

2. the old ground wire from the battery has it grounded to the intake manifold and to the chassis, my wire is falling apart so i want to put another one i have on, can I go just directly from the battery to the intake manifold or do i also need it grounded to the chassis,

3. the ground wire that comes from the ignitor, does this ground to the chassis,


ok I know your probably sick of my questions and so am I, this is probably all the wiring questions I will have, and I know alot of people here have done their own wiring so it shouldnt be too hard to answer right? thanks for any help though.

DuffMan
09-19-2004, 04:24 PM
The 11lbs without a solenoid thing for who wanted it explained. There is a solinoid that actuates the wastegate, but to my understanding doesn't come with the SR motorsets, because it's mounted elsewhere in the engine bay. So you'd have to get one, use a boost controller, or run the vaccum hose from the nipple on the intercooler directly to the wastegate, bypassing the valve function. Without this solenoid it should run 11lbs.

No its still 7psi. Think about it: A valve that restricts air to the wastegate can only raise the boost not lower it. So if the stock wastegate was really set to 11psi, theres no way a solenoid would bring it down to 7psi. The purpose of the solenoid is slightly faster spool up, by preventing the wastegate from opening part way at lower boost.

kazuo
09-19-2004, 11:52 PM
No its still 7psi. Think about it: A valve that restricts air to the wastegate can only raise the boost not lower it. So if the stock wastegate was really set to 11psi, theres no way a solenoid would bring it down to 7psi. The purpose of the solenoid is slightly faster spool up, by preventing the wastegate from opening part way at lower boost.

Bingo, you win.

That's exactly why I asked him what he talking about... didn't make any sense at all.

Pepperoni: Can you be a bit more specific on the water temp sensor interchangeablility? Not only for the FAQ, but also for myself... I think I may need one and I can't figure out which one I need from your post (Z32? It's for a redtop :P)

Also does anyone know about fpr interchange? Seems like the KA one would fit, just that the nipple for the vac line is on a different side...

Jeff240sx
09-20-2004, 06:18 PM
correct me if I'm wrong, but if you were to have no vac on your wastegate....is would open at 11psi for safety reasons right?

No lines going to the wastegate would mean that the turbo isn't regulated, and would run to 15-18psi, wherever the turbo stops spooling at on an SR. It would go way out of efficiency and cause detrimental damage.
-Jeff

kazuo
09-21-2004, 12:50 AM
TPS and/or Temp. Sensor interchange, anyone? let's not hijack this.

- this is general for 89-98 Nissan but most apply to the SR20 motor.
- to set car into diag. mode, with the key in the "ON" position, turn potentometer screw on ECU fully clockwise, then turn it fully counterclockwise. The LED on the ECU will begin to flash.
- first digit = LONG blink; second digit = SHORT blink (ex: 1... 1... 1... 1... then 1-1-1 equals 43 = TPS)

Error Codes Biatch
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.

vanquish2
09-21-2004, 04:25 PM
ok...my official correction of my previous statement. After checking the lines more closely and doing more research...hooking the line from the wastegate to tb will get you 7lb. hooking the wastegate to the solenoid then to tb does what has been said....it actually restricts the airflow and brings you to 11lb....no vac on wastegate does indeed give infinite boost (not good)....thank you guys for questioning me and helping me learn and not treating me like a dumbass...you guys are awesome....yet again proves....this is a great board! Keep up the good work!

Pepperoni
09-21-2004, 09:29 PM
Oops, sorry kazuo, didn't keep up with the thead.
Water Temperature Sensor (cont..)
I know for sure the sentra one works because thats the one I used for my S13 blacktop. Since i have a 1998 blacktop, i used a 1998 Sentra temp. sensor. Im not sure if redtops and blacktops are the same when it comes to temp sensors, but you can try out a sentra one. According to a friend online, he said he used a Z32 sensor for his redtop; and it goes with year as well, like i did with the sentra sensor. So, you should be able to use a Z32 '91 temp sensor for your redtop. KA's may be the same for redtops, but thats only a guess; KA was different for mine. I can only assure you about Sentra sensor for S13 blacktops.

fliprayzin240sx
09-21-2004, 11:47 PM
For the water temp sensor, atleast for my S14, have to use the stock KA sensor off my 97 KA. I forgot bout this and my temp was pegged at H for awhile till i talked to Phase2 and they told me to swap out the sensor off my KA.

nrg
09-24-2004, 04:20 AM
S13 SR into S14: http://camel-towing.com/docs/S13%20SR20DET%20into%20S14/S13%20SR20DET%20into%20S14.htm
SR20DET Technical Info: http://sr20det.nismo.org/srtech.htm
Intercooler pressure testing: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Lots of MISC crap: http://www.sr20tuning.com/modifications.html

statik
09-24-2004, 06:21 PM
S13 SR into S14: http://myweb.cableone.net/tain228/S13toS14/S13toS14.html
SR20DET Technical Info: http://sr20det.nismo.org/srtech.htm
Intercooler pressure testing: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Lots of MISC crap: http://www.sr20tuning.com/modifications.html

that wiring harness link will probably save me alot of time, why pay someone 200 and wait 3 weeks when you can do it yourself =]

nrg
09-27-2004, 04:07 AM
S14 SR into S14
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=249019&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

I saved all the pictures from the scan but I don't have a host for it yet. I will post pictures of them once I host them.

Touring240
09-28-2004, 11:22 AM
For Canadian owners, we did not get the 91 Sentra SE-R.

When you go to get parts (IE oil filter, plugs, etc) ask for 91 Nissan NX2000
It has the same sr20de.

rps13sh
10-05-2004, 10:29 AM
E5 is from a 94-96 180sx black top 5 speed
E6 is from a 94-96 180sx blacktop automatic
WC is from a 94-98 S14 Silvia
62 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia 5 speed
61,63 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia automatic
J4 is from a 97-98 180sx Type X 5speed

looks like i got the wrong ECU with my motor. i got a red text ECU with #60. what car is that for?.

HaLo
10-05-2004, 01:41 PM
Nissan Part Numbers:

Connecting Rod Bearing: 12111-1N500
Crankshaft Bearing: 12207-60J00
Front main seal: 13510-53J00
Rear Main seal: 12279-0M300
Piston Ring set: 12033-53J10
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (S13): 14036-53J10
Exhaust Manifold Stud: 14065-75F00
Intake Manifold Gasket (S14): 14035-5U000
Intake Manifold Gasket (S13): 14035-53J00
Oil Strainer Gasket: 15053-1E400
Intake Valve: 13201-1E711
Exhaust Valve (Not found at Nissan): 13202-53J01
Shim: 13229-53J00
Tensionner Gasket: 13079-2J200
Intake Valve Seal: 13207-84A00
Exhaust Valve Seal: 13207-53F00
Intake/Exhaust Valve Seats: 13205-53J00
Valve cover gasket (S13): 13270-52F00
Spark Plug Well Gasket: 13271-52F00

PS: This post should be nominated for post of the year.

sepulchral
10-06-2004, 05:06 AM
(This faq is for an sr20det, sr20de, ka24de, ka24e?)

If you receive ECU Error code 34, it means one of two things:

a) Bad Knock Sensor
b) Bad connection to knock sensor

Like many things, Knock Sensors can just "Go Bad". First, look for the grey conector between the 3rd and 4th intake runners, there may be two, the bigger one is the o2 sensor, the smaller one is the knock sensor. Unplug the knock sensor connector and check the wiring, likewise, follow the wiring down to under the intake manifold and feel that the wiring hasn't fallen out. Either way you're going to have to remove the knock sensor to thoroughly check. My knock sensor on my sr20det was held on by one 12mm bolt, to remove it i just reached down under the intake manifold and unbolted it, it was agonizing but it worked and i replaced the whole thing in 15 minutes. Other people would normally go from under the car and remove the starter to get to it, or remove the intake manifold. This is not compeletely necessary, but smaller hands do help. When you get the old knock sensor off look for these things:

a) Discoloration of the copper side (means its toast)
b) Frayed wires
c) any cracks in the knock sensor
d) Plug is damaged
e) not receiving enough electricity

If you see wiring problems then i suggest you fix them, plug the knock sensor back in, bolt it up, reset ECU, drive the car, and see if the error comes up again. Otherwise just replace the little demon. If you have an sr20det then go to Nissan or Napa and get the knock sensor off a 1991 Nissan Sentra SER (Sr20de), If you have a CA18det then get it off a Pulsar, KA's should be selft explanatory because they are american made. Knock sensors are not cheap, mine was $118.00 it sucks, but live with it.

Once you have the new knock sensor, replace the old one, double check wiring, bolt it back up, and reset ECU, drive car around, check ecu, if its not fixed then you have wiring issues most likely, that i can't help you with but there are ways to check the electrical charge.

Good Luck

monkeyspeed
10-06-2004, 11:55 AM
as far as the coolant temp sensor....same part numbers from napa, autozone, and pepboys....91-93 sentra ser and 91-95 300z tt are both ECH TS5520 (from napa)...

Jeff240sx
10-29-2004, 11:25 PM
is there a difference in the Z32 MAFS (between TT and N/A)??? which is right???

No difference.
-Jeff

blu808
10-30-2004, 02:59 AM
No lines going to the wastegate would mean that the turbo isn't regulated, and would run to 15-18psi, wherever the turbo stops spooling at on an SR. It would go way out of efficiency and cause detrimental damage.
-Jeff


I got my turbo to hit 20-23 pounds a few times that way.
(trying to blow the motor)

blu808
10-30-2004, 03:10 AM
Sr blocks are alum, with steel sleeves.

Sr intake manifolds vary. S13 has a long runner manifold, and s14 has a short runner. You can tell the diff, because the s13 manifold has the throttle body under the manifold, and s14 has it about even with the height of the valve cover.

Sr blocks use the upper oil pan for block reinforcement.

Sr20det motors really need an oil cooler. (track)

Oil Filter: Pull off the intake manifold support brackets under the manifold, or you will wish you never had to change your oil again.

sr20 motors dont like ka fuel filters (z32)

Dont raise the boost unless you have an aftermarket fuel pump.

Sr20det trannys are weak.

S15 trannys are even weaker.

Keep your ignitor away from heat (exhaust manifold)

When setting ignition timing with a light, timing marks on crank pully may not be accurate unless you zero the cas (cam angle sensor).

Invest in rocker arm stoppers.

T25 turbos suck.

You better do a good job rerouting the coolant line behind the head for the turbo. Because changing it while the motors in sucks.

ehh.

blu808
11-10-2004, 09:20 PM
Sr trannys suck. Why do you think all the pro drifters use os giken gear sets. I have blown 2 trannys in half a season. Ernie fixmer blew 2 at just one formula d event.
Trannys are fine but gear sets are weak

nightwalker
12-16-2004, 03:00 PM
SRs are so oil dependent it's not even funny. If you can do anything to help the motor get more oil efficiently, hold more oil, cool it down, do it.

noodl35
02-10-2005, 09:59 AM
I'm pretty sure I have everything done so far for the swap. I'm swapping in a 89-91 early year redtop into my 97 240sx. First I swapped the Smaller black plug on my KA water temp sensor onto my sr water temp sensor. Then I swapped the 97 KA tranny speed sensor(with the red gear at the end) onto my sr20det tranny. A guy that lives near me who did the swap onto his s13 said that theres no need ot swap the sensors. As long as the sr speed sensor has a red gear at the end, it should work? Actually, he didnt even swap the temp sensor as well. could this be a redtop to s13 deal? My entire harness is done. Got the z32 fuel filter. There anything else I needa change? Thanks.

-David

Jeff240sx
02-20-2005, 09:59 AM
Stop posting up stupid questions in the FAQ. It's for answering questions (the A and the Q), not asking. Make threads for that.
If I have to prune more posts from this FAQ, I'm going to lock it.
-Jeff

autobahNESSA
03-14-2005, 10:36 PM
Can someone tell me what are the oil presure readings- used the search tool, got for sale threads mainly.

Idle sometimes I see 15psi, sometiems 20
mid throttle: 45-60psi
full throttle: 80-100psi.

during warmup the guage reads 45-60psi.

by the way Im useing a Megan Racing guage, it was cheap, so yea are these accurate?

blu808
03-15-2005, 03:05 PM
fyi all motors ahould have higher oil press when cold.

A good rule of thumb is 10 Psi oil pressure for every thousand rpm.

If you have at least this then your good.
:naughty:

SequenceGarage
03-28-2005, 04:45 PM
Just posting some things I did not see in this thread, however it may be in the links. Plz delete if overlapping.

SR = Block
20 = 2.0L Displacement
D = DOHC
E = Fuel Injected
T = Single Turbocharger

2.0L DOHC Turbo
Turbo Type: T25G
Compressor A/R: 0.80
Injector Size: 370cc
Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 86.0mm
Displacement: 1998cc
Performance: SR20DET:
Power (ps): [email protected] 6000 rpm
Torque (kgm): [email protected] 4000 rpm
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Speed Limiter:180 Kmh -112 mph
Stock Boost: 7 psi
ECU: 62 (redtop) OR E5 (blacktop). 63 (automatic) will also work.
MAFS: 89-90 240sx mafs works.
Rev Limit: 7500rpm (no need to really go over 7200)

Gear Ratios:

Gear Ratios - Manual Transmission
1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1.000
5th 0.759
Reverse 3.382
Final 4.083

S13 ECU Pinout (thanks to CM510.com)
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forums/uploads/post-13-1099324851.gif

Zenki S14 SR ECU Pinout (thanks to 200sx.org)
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forums/uploads/post-13-1099325328.gif

Classic battery area wiring diagram from heavy throttle:
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forums/uploads/post-13-1099325638.jpg

Jeff240sx
04-07-2005, 02:16 PM
The power specs, and turbo that Sequence Garage listed are for s13 sr20det only. S14 is 220hp (I think) with a t28 turbo. The s15 is 250hp (again, I think) and uses yet another turbo.
-Jeff

BLT123
04-10-2005, 12:27 AM
S15 same turbo with cast divider wall, bigger injectors, and I think thicker beams but not sure. Both S14 and S15 blacktops have VVL.

240Driver39
04-11-2005, 03:33 PM
S15 same turbo with cast divider wall, bigger injectors, and I think thicker beams but not sure. Both S14 and S15 blacktops have VTC.

there..fixed it for ya...would really be a fun motor if they have vvl...but sadly they dont..so dont spread incorrect info.

closebyu26
04-16-2005, 01:49 AM
At the bottom of this tread they talk about bhoost for stock sr20det turbo. I have found from personnal experiance that the turbo will at least put out 1.3mb, or 18 psi, but I have stock everything, so detination was the final outcome, but it would put out more if you had bigger inj, front mount IC. I'm running it at 14 psi right now with no problems. Thats with a greddy boost controller.

gerryb
04-20-2005, 05:32 AM
Z32 NA and TT AFM look the same but are different. The difference is that the NA AFM will read up to 350hp or so, the TT one will read up to 500hp. You want the TT AFM.

mjjstang
04-20-2005, 05:37 AM
your dumb as shit and your post should be removed at once, and when yours is, then mine should follow

btw I see you dont post much as youve been here quite a bit longer than your post count would show, I hope this doesnt discourage you from future posting, but I would hope you think next time before pushing bullshit into the mix.

gerryb
04-20-2005, 08:16 AM
Hey f$%K you you yanky piece of crap, when you turkey's were still running around in ka truck engine pieces of crap we'd been doing sr conversions etc here for years, (and had complete import s13 sr's here). There are 2 part numbers for Z32 AFM 1 for NA and 1 for TT. They have been tested for voltage to airflow capacity and that's the fact jack, so unless you have been involved intuning them and have the facts shut your stupid dumb shit mouth.

SpeedRacerGTP
04-25-2005, 11:46 PM
What's with the hate? It takes maturity to engage in intelligent discourse without namecalling. If someone says something you disagree with, make it known WITHOUT taking personal jabs. Didn't either of you two go to Kindergarten? Sheesh. :rolleyes:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=22680-Z32ALL
Apparently the Z32 MAFs have the same part number and are therefore the same for both the TT and the N/A (at least for the USDM, although I highly doubt it would be different elsewhere). So calm down you two! :spank:

mike_fernandes
04-30-2005, 11:41 AM
wow.. i think this is my first post ever.

This info is for the S14 blacktop motor, it's taken right out of the service manual. hope this helps some of you.


Engine Oil: (with filter change): 3 1/4 qt (3.7 L)
(w/o filter change): 3 1/8 qt (3.5 L)

Cooling System (including resevoir): 5 1/2 qt (6.2 L)

Manual Transmission: *GL-4* 4 1/4 pt (2.4 L)
Differential carrier gear oil: *GL-5* 3 1/8 pt (1.8 L)

Automatic Transmission: 7 qt (7.9 L)

Power steering 3/4 qt (0.9 L)

edit: if anyone doesnt believe this I can back it up with a pic of the page from the manual, but as you can tell I'm new and don't know how to upload pics yet... unless theres someone that can host them for me.

the head
05-23-2005, 02:29 PM
short block has no Head only pistons crank ect

Carlwill
05-23-2005, 03:47 PM
spark plug seal is same is fwd SR from sentra.

ka and sr tranny are NOT interchangable. the rear housings are same. its basically same tranny, u just cant bolt it up.

I just found out the hard way that there is a difference between FWD and RWD seals for the SR. RWD are larger.

sepulchral
06-03-2005, 08:44 PM
sr20det spark plugs are code BKR7E-11

by NGK

s13gonwild
06-18-2005, 06:02 AM
heres a few had to search for the clutch and main seal that any us cars have...

-Front and rear main seal = 93 sentra SER
-Stock sr clutch = 89 Nissan Maxima
-Timing chain replacement = 89 Nissan Maxima
-o2 sensor = 87 300zx turbo
-Turbo gaskets = 90-96 tt 300zx
-Exhaust/intake manifold gaskets = 93 Sentra SER


Also found out you could use a ka radiator on sr but you need a top radiator hose that would travel from the pass side to the driverside and you will need to cut the ends a bit..

you can get the hoses from the following

-02 Dodge neon L4 2.0L
-96 Buick road master limited V8 8.7L
-96 chevrolet caprice classic V8 4.3L/5.7L

Taffy
06-24-2005, 10:40 PM
The power specs, and turbo that Sequence Garage listed are for s13 sr20det only. S14 is 220hp (I think) with a t28 turbo. The s15 is 250hp (again, I think) and uses yet another turbo.
-Jeff

The Japanese S14 and S15 turbo are basically the same. Both the compressor and exhaust housings are the same. The compressor and exhaust wheels are the same specs. The difference is that the S14 exhaust wheel is not made of the same material as the S15 exhaust wheel. I can not remember the materials, but they are NOT ceramic, they are steel alloys.

The S14 turbo in Australia is not ball bearing from what I have been told. The S15 in Australia is ball bearing though.

Taffy
06-24-2005, 10:42 PM
spark plug seal is same is fwd SR from sentra.

ka and sr tranny are NOT interchangable. the rear housings are same. its basically same tranny, u just cant bolt it up.

The spark plug seals are not the same. The S13 and S14/15 RWD SR20DET spark plug seals are JDM only.

The SR and KA bell bousing have different engine side bolt patterns.

Jeff240sx
06-30-2005, 01:54 AM
DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD UNLESS YOU HAVE AN ANSWER TO A FAQ!

I just pruned ~40 posts from this thread, too. I'm sick of fucking babysitting these FAQs, and WILL lock them if a simple rule like "Stop asking stupid questions" can't be followed.
You have a question without an answer? Step 1. Search. Step 2. Post in the Tech section, NOT THE FUCKING ANSWER THREAD!
-Jeff

TKOs14
07-16-2005, 01:54 PM
sr20det s13 in s14 coolent capacity:
"with koyo s14 radiator"

1 3/4 gallons


thats all i got...

hellion240sx
07-18-2005, 07:32 PM
did a search and found nothing

sr20det oil pan holds 3.5 quarts of oil but you can put in four.

>>don't know if thats a good or bad thing but i remember it being discussed.<<

s14 blacktop
07-26-2005, 09:52 AM
do not put anymore than 3.5 quarts of oil in your sr.. the rest will be spit out by your engine through your breather valve, unless you like your intercooler and intake to have a thick oil film on the inside.

yes it will hurt your engine.

brrr
08-09-2005, 10:00 AM
Hey, I am doing an s14 sr into s14 96 240sx and I have the complete wring harness and the jdm ecu. There are four plugs on the inside-of-the-firewall end of the harness, the ecu plug, another large plug (which is obvious where it goes so ok), and then 2 blue relay plugs. On the 240sx harness though there is one blue relay plug, and then this 8wire little white plug that attatches to a plug that seems to run to the back of the car. What to I do with this difference? I found which of the 2 relay plugs match up, but I am left with an unaccounted for relay plug on the sr harness and a empty white plug in the car. what should I do?

oumu
08-18-2005, 05:16 PM
sr20det spark plugs are code BKR7E-11

by NGK

Those sparkplugs fit but aren't OEM and are one step colder than stock.
Be sure you regap them to 0.9mm (0.036in).

The correct OEM plugs are double platinum:
NGK PFR6B-9
And I think this is the Nissan Part Number:
22401-27N66

You can also use NGK Iridium:
BKR6EIX
BKR6EVX
BKR6EIX-P

Or traditional spark plugs like he listed:
BKR6E

You can change all those sixs to sevens to get colder plugs.
(e.g. BKR7EIX)

1121S13
08-18-2005, 06:03 PM
Hey, I am doing an s14 sr into s14 96 240sx and I have the complete wring harness and the jdm ecu. There are four plugs on the inside-of-the-firewall end of the harness, the ecu plug, another large plug (which is obvious where it goes so ok), and then 2 blue relay plugs. On the 240sx harness though there is one blue relay plug, and then this 8wire little white plug that attatches to a plug that seems to run to the back of the car. What to I do with this difference? I found which of the 2 relay plugs match up, but I am left with an unaccounted for relay plug on the sr harness and a empty white plug in the car. what should I do?
mod said no questions.. fuk man read..
bigass letters
DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD UNLESS YOU HAVE AN ANSWER TO A FAQ!

-incase of hotpipe clearance issue
to add; If you want your SR hotpipe to sit LOWER(S13 SR), use a S14 turbo inlet pipe..
hotpipe /w bov sits nice and low.

s14 inlet pipe is shorter then s13 inlet pipe.

Kingtal0n
09-04-2005, 02:26 PM
This is a diagram I made for converting your your #62 harness to work with a J4 ECU, and visca versa.

it illustrates the differences between #62, E5, and J4 ecus.very handy!

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=68002112&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

neilsan
10-09-2005, 06:17 PM
No its still 7psi. Think about it: A valve that restricts air to the wastegate can only raise the boost not lower it. So if the stock wastegate was really set to 11psi, theres no way a solenoid would bring it down to 7psi. The purpose of the solenoid is slightly faster spool up, by preventing the wastegate from opening part way at lower boost.


Does this thing have that solenoid?http://rhdjapan.com/images/ebaypics/May_3_to_June_3/7749SRignitorchip/DSC00080.JPG

s13envy
10-13-2005, 02:00 AM
I think with the NGK plug the higher number you go the colder the plug gets. example hotter - bkr6e ; colder - bkr7e Correct me if I'm wrong guys

BoostInnovations
10-13-2005, 10:19 PM
I think with the NGK plug the higher number you go the colder the plug gets. example hotter - bkr6e ; colder - bkr7e Correct me if I'm wrong guys

we've already discovered this...delete my post and his please

turbo_lover
10-20-2005, 02:54 PM
i have a real quick question ive been wonderin about for a long time... how much does a SR20DET weigh in a base model 240sx?(no power windows,sunroof,etc.)

thanks.

kazuo
12-09-2005, 12:14 AM
Just to add...

Z32 300ZX TT and B13 Sentra SE-R use the same temp sensor.

I checked.

So either one will work on redtop S13 SR20DET.

WhiteGLX
12-13-2005, 01:36 PM
i am not trying to disrupt this thread. If i am, sorry. But i do not want to start a topic for a simple question - - - > Do any of you know how much a base model 240sx fast back weighs with a SR20DET?
[ SORRY FOR THE IN-CONVIENCE :bite: ]
Thanks.


Hatch with:
*HICAS
*1/2 tank gas
*Full interior
*Power everything
*SR
!!weighed in at 2850lbs!!


Coupe with:
*Manual windows
*No interior
*30lbs wiring stripped from chasis
*1/2 tank of gas
*SR
!!weighed in at 2415lbs!!


these are my numbers, hatch was weighed in at a farm on a grain scale, so it pretty close. Coupe was weighed in on Longacre race scales at Beaverun Raceway.

andrewmp6
01-15-2006, 06:51 AM
found somthing every sr owner needes http://www.zfever.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=147

g6civcx
01-25-2006, 07:55 AM
This information is for you guys who are swapping SRs into your car. Please do yourself a huge favour and read this post BEFORE you finish the swap, as it will tell you what to look for before the motor is in the car. It's so much easier to fix stuff when the motor is out. Don't be cheap. At most it will cost you a few hundred bucks if you fix everything right the first time. If you're already spending thousands, don't cut corners. Fix it right the first time and save yourself the grief.

This is of course assuming you have a good clean chassis and a good motor that holds decent compression.

Things to look for while doing your swap:

* When the motor is out of your shell, take the time to clean up the engine bay. Fix any rust spots before it starts eating away the rest of the frame. It may take a little time, but your car will thank you.

* Tip from SR Owner's Club: If you have any aftermarket wiring, like an alarm or stereo equipment, make absolutely sure that your car can start with the stock engine, because you don't want to be chasing ghosts when the culprit is something aftermarket that you installed. Better yet, remove all that stuff and make sure your car can start. You can always reinstall them later on if you want.

* When the SR is out of the clip and sitting on an engine stand, take the time to replace every single rubber hose and belt on there. Rubber has a lifespan of about 5 years under perfect conditions. Less if it's out in the elements. Sometimes a hose or a belt may look perfect, but the rubber coating is just cosmetic. The rubber makes it look good, like dressing. The weaves under the rubber is what gives the belt strength and structural integrity. Usually SRs has been sitting in a yard somewhere for some time. So take the time to replace all the rubber parts.

* While you're replacing all the hoses, make sure you replace the hose clamps with high quality screw-on hose clamps. The factory spring clamps and screw-on clamps are notoriously hard to remove, and tend to break over time. It should only cost you a few bucks for the dozen or so clamps you'll need. While you're installing those clamps, think about the position of the screw once the motor is mounted. Make sure you can remove it at the angle you'll have once the motor is in since you can't work around the motor as well as when the motor is out. So orient the clamps accordingly.

* The heater hoses are notoriously prone to leaking. Replace them with new high-quality hoses when the motor is out. Same with the vacuum hoses. Sometimes a leaking vacuum hose will cause your car to run poorly.

* While the motor is out, it is a very good idea to rebuild your turbo. The SR is notorious for blowing the turbo exhaust inlet gasket, and it is very difficult to remove the turbo once the motor is in the car. It should only cost you a couple of runs to Wendy's to replace these gaskets. Make sure you use new mounting hardware, or at least clean up the old one on there. While it's out, check the turbo for shaft play as well.

* It is also a very good idea to do something about the turbo plumbing. People who sell turbos know that the SR has a problem with poor oil flow. That's why they stock T25/T28. If you have an S13 SR, follow the turbo coolant return line and see where it leads you. Now think about where that line is going to end up when the motor is mounted. You won't have too much space to work once the motor is in.

The best way is to reroute the turbo coolant return line to the water outlet going to the upper radiator hose. S14 and newer SRs water outlet has a tap for the return line. Get this waterneck if you can. mynismo.com can special order them for you from Japan. If you can get it, plug up this hard line in the back by either welding or by clamping a plug onto it. Just keep in mind that if anything breaks back there, you will have a hard time getting to it, especially if the motor is hot and you have big hands.

Now is a good time to install new braided lines. Taka Motorsports sells complete bolt-in kits you can use without having to worry about reusing the banjo bolts.

* When the motor is out of the chassis, you can work on the steering rack. You may want to install some steering rack spacers now since they are not accessible with the motor in.

* When you install the new motor, use new motor mounts if you can. They're not too hard to access once the motor is mounted, but chances are the mounts on your stock engine and the stock mounts on the SR are both done. You may have trouble accessing the bolts on the turbo side once the motor is in though.

* Another thing you may want to do is go through your stock wiring harness and figure out where everything is supposed to go. Get an FSM and label each harness. This will help you rewire the SR since you know exactly what's supposed to go where. If you have some extra harnesses you will know where they go so you don't have to worry. If you get a plug-and-play wiring harness, take the time and figure out where everything is supposed to go before you plug them in. This is probably the single hardest thing when it comes to swapping in the SR. Most people will mess up the wiring so badly since it's very confusing and they don't take the time to figure out what needs to go where. Of all the non-running SRs I have seen, probably all of them had wiring problems of some sort.

AKADriver
01-25-2006, 09:35 AM
i am not trying to disrupt this thread. If i am, sorry. But i do not want to start a topic for a simple question - - - > Do any of you know how much a base model 240sx fast back weighs with a SR20DET?

While this was an inappropriate place to ask, I do think this qualifies as a frequently asked question (and one of frequent debate).

When both engines are fully dressed in completely stock form, the SR20DET weighs within a few pounds of the KA24E and KA24DE - close enough so as not to matter. The lighter block is offset by the weight of the turbocharger and intercooler.

It's a topic of debate because no one ever swaps a completely stock SR, and the weight of both engines will vary by installed accessories.

If it's of concern to you, your best bet is to weigh the car on racer's scales after the engine swap and plan your weight savings from there, because everyone's car and engine will be different.

g6civcx
01-26-2006, 03:35 PM
When working with heater hoses, be extremely careful because the barb/nipple on the heater core can be very brittle due to age, and they can break easily. If they break, you will have to replace the heater core (involves dropping the dash and disassembling the front half of the interior), or seal up the connection some other way.

When removing the hoses, it is best to use a hose remover (looks like pliers with rubber on the ends), or if you're not re-using the hoses, just cut them and carefully peel them off. Don't twist with pliers or you may break the nipples.

When installing new hoses, you can dab a drop of oil on the nipple to help the new hose slide on. Use high-quality hose clamps, and be absolutely sure not to overtighten!

LIVINXS
02-26-2006, 09:27 AM
some intresting things about SR motors

blacktops have pistons, rod, crank capable of makeing 400whp

s15 tranny is a 6 speed built into the housing of the old 5 speed. 5th and 6th gear can't handle more power than a stock s15 motor 250hp flywheel.

so its been said here, dont think your gonna put the baddest motor on what you think is the sexiest tranny ever.

also intresting is fully built SR's can be limited by the VTC. RED TOPs with VTC are great for mild streetable build ups cause the vtc will give you lots of low end torque with out sacrificing high RPM HP. However, cams with a 11mm lift wont work unless you disable the vtc. also VTC will fall apart at the very high RPM (around or bellow 10,000rpm).

the BLACK TOP head vs. RED TOP head
the black top is a high port head
the red top is a low port head or what an engineer would call a tunned port
all this really means is most black tops will never NEED a port and polish
nissan thought makeing huge ports in the head was less restriction therefore more power on turbo motors. however, later realized optimizing volumetric effiency, through a tunned head and VTC, made more useable power ON STOCK SR setups.

if you are set on being the baddest mother fucker. build a blacktop with the biggest cam and biggest turbo you can find. and of course all the stuff that goes with it.


wow, thats my first post

FRpilot
02-26-2006, 08:44 PM
when you are talking about blacktops.. are you talking about s13 or s14/15. also, where did you get that info that blacktops have pistons, rods, and crank capable of 400hp. aren't s13 redtops capable of about 400hp on stock bottom end also.

and fyi, redtops dont have vtc unless you swapped in an s14/s15 blacktop head. s13 red/blacktops are almost essentially the same. also, iirc the awd gti-r sr20s have the best flowing heads of all the srs.

cookie
03-02-2006, 06:55 AM
some intresting things about SR motors

s15 tranny is a 6 speed built into the housing of the old 5 speed. 5th and 6th gear can't handle more power than a stock s15 motor 250hp flywheel.


Totaly incorrect

6 speed box is totaly different (3 part case) , all the ratios are also different,
different flywheel, unsprung clutch.

the 5 and 6th gear thing, blitz ran a 400bhp s15 on the std box for some time without problems.

So why post incorrect information. (I have a s15 box and i know what i say is true)

C.

LIVINXS
03-09-2006, 12:30 PM
fr pilot

yes, your right. S13 red tops didn't have vtc they are too old. let me clarify what has the nice rods. s13 blacktops and I'm pretty sure s14 black tops also have the 400hp rods. all red tops have the weaker rods. the s13 red top with a turbo has the same inferior rods as all the US SR's like B13 B14 and S14 SE-R. same as the rods in the jdm red top S14 S15

as for GTI-r head, yes they are the best and individual throttle bodies are also very sweet. very few people even know about that shit. people dont even know about the awd sr's since we dont have a version of it here. and even fewer spend the cash on it.

cookie

when you have 400hp in YOUR car tell me it wont break. your are believing what you read in a magazine. ask any drifter or drag racer. nissan 6speeds are shit. you can safely run about 100 more HP in the same car for the same application on a 5speed. hard launches at 400hp will blow your tranny. in a 5sp launch at 500hp will blow your tranny. and yes 5th and 6th are half the size of the gears they wish they were. I read it in SCC and there is even a picture of the 5 and 6 speed trannys cracked open side by side.

BoostInnovations
03-09-2006, 03:32 PM
your are believing what you read in a magazine.


I read it in SCC

hmm, hypocrite much?

i believe there is stock longblock redtop making 570whp for about a year now....its on freshalloy if you dont believe me...

whitey240
03-10-2006, 08:28 AM
hmm, hypocrite much?

i believe there is stock longblock redtop making 570whp for about a year now....its on freshalloy if you dont believe me...

578.6 to be exact, and running 10.34 in the 1/4

cookie
03-10-2006, 01:25 PM
I'll be at 400bhp soon enough , I'll go tell all the people i know that there 6 speed should have exploded when they got to 400bhp.

Please post the article it will be an interesting and probably not that infomative to read.

Might want to read this

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php?p=1555848&postcount=13

C.

HKsilvia
03-25-2006, 11:00 PM
let me tell you about S15...
-First of all, s15 tranny can be RELIABLE until 320-350HP, since there is one more set of gear for 6th gear is added, it should be weaker for sure, for 400HP+, it could hold but u are testing your luck, if u are a 6 speed lover like me, your best bet is to either stay under 350HP (which im doing) or get the strengthen 6 speed transmittion from NISMO for s15 only (approx. $3500-$4000).
-If you are doing a S15 swapping, make sure, and i said MAKE FUKIN SURE you got the rear differential of the S15, and be sure it a Spec R rear diff, because S15 Spec S has the different rear diff.
-For s15 engine swappin to s13, you would need a custom drive shaft coz the s15 drive shaft is longer than s13.
-Even though u got your engine, rear diff, and drive shaft, you gonna need a signal converter aka "black box" in order to have your speedometer, trip info, and VVT operate, even though, the car can still be drivable without it. and you wont have speed cut... :P

thas all i can remember for now. Thanks Ron of Motorsport Technique for teaching me all these useful info. you are my hero!

cookie
03-29-2006, 05:14 AM
you don't need a s15 diff when doing a swap, but the s15 diff is a better performer than the s13 or s14 diffs.

VVT does not require a speed input to work

C.

HKsilvia
03-30-2006, 02:36 AM
Um.. No
The unique thing of S15 is the speed sensor is located at the rear differential, as the VVT need to go thru the ABS module (which require speed signal) in order to operate. nuff said...

LIVINXS
04-01-2006, 07:34 AM
I got a reply from hybrid dynamics, it only made 460hp on pump gas in the real world :( your never gonna pay for that crazy race fuel on a dailly driver
from Jay:

The shortblock on that car was 100% original OEM Nissan, never torn apart. The head had a basic valve job and resurfacing done to it. That is all.
There was no portwork at all done to it. It had a cometic metal headgasket,
ARP headstuds, hks valve springs, HKS step 2 cams and greddy rocker arm
stoppers. That was the only things done to the engine. Like I said though,
the bottom end was 100% original, and honestly, wasn't even in the best of
shape. We've seen cleaner engines than this one was.

It had around 460 hp on pump gas at 18 PSI, and then the 570 was done on
VP114 race fuel.

Here is a picture of the motor in the car. You can see how clean the head
is from when we had the valve job and resurfacing done, and how filthy the
block still is.

http://www.hybridynamics.com/uploaded/2/IMG_1296.JPG

thanks!

jason

9DSX_DRVR
04-11-2006, 08:40 AM
Hey I finally dropped the sr20 in this weekend. What a [email protected] The engine droped just fine into the engine bay no sweat. It took maybe 5min. But, I was an 2 inches off on both motor mounts. The engine would just not go back far enough. So here is what I ended up doing. I went on

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/installs/240sr/
http://www.superstreetonline.com/howto/3430/
http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp#prepengine
I even got this issue of "Drifting" which was the best!

Anyway they give you the steps about moving the heater hoses from going to the drivers side and point the to the passenger side. You have to do this BEFORE you drop the engine. Because like I said its tight! Well those hoses did not give enough room to push the motor back. So, here is my tip. You have to hoses. #1 hose is an "L" shape that you turn 180 deg. The #2 hose is connected to a hard line that run along the back of the head. Everyone says to arrange the hose so it is on the hard line and going back to the passenger side. But, that hard line is in the way of the head moving far enough into the firewall. So I cut the hard line right at the back of the head. So now on my block I have 2 hard lines coming out at the same length and the are both only a couple of inches from the heater hose outlet from the firewall.

I hope this helps.

hendogg8
05-03-2006, 02:11 AM
OEM Nissan part numbers for redtop SR20det belts:

Alternator:
11720-52F00

Power Steering:
11720-59S01

DUBCITY
05-11-2006, 09:38 PM
anyone have any literature or wiring diagrams for an s14 sr20det swap in an s14 chassis?

thanks

WickedDrift
05-29-2006, 07:34 PM
im not sure if theres been a post about the TPS, but im gettting NO power at all out of the ECU to my TPS... i have no idea why ive traced everything back its all good. help plz

meteorite_flo
05-30-2006, 05:59 PM
wow.. i think this is my first post ever.

This info is for the S14 blacktop motor, it's taken right out of the service manual. hope this helps some of you.


Engine Oil: (with filter change): 3 1/4 qt (3.7 L)
(w/o filter change): 3 1/8 qt (3.5 L)

Cooling System (including resevoir): 5 1/2 qt (6.2 L)

Manual Transmission: *GL-4* 4 1/4 pt (2.4 L)
Differential carrier gear oil: *GL-5* 3 1/8 pt (1.8 L)

Automatic Transmission: 7 qt (7.9 L)

Power steering 3/4 qt (0.9 L)

edit: if anyone doesnt believe this I can back it up with a pic of the page from the manual, but as you can tell I'm new and don't know how to upload pics yet... unless theres someone that can host them for me.

is this the same with the s13 sr?

nissanguy13
06-28-2006, 06:17 PM
The Megan Turbo Elbow for the s13 redtop has a bigger hole for the O2 sensor. I used the 95 300zx O2 sensor since it is fatter and it works fine. The other one posted on the first page is the same size as the stock one, it will work fine if you use the stock turbo elbow

nrg
06-29-2006, 08:58 PM
R32 Skyline GTR rear diff are Nismo 2way lsd. R200 and direct drop in for 240sx. They run about 300 bucks online.

tonyaccord
07-11-2006, 03:21 PM
yo i just did a rhd & sr swap on my s14:aw: ,you guys said it was pretty imposible but it got done:2f2f: .Now im trying to find out how to get rid of my govern.cant go past 180km= 120mph. some one said you have to cut a wire off of the ecu..but they didnt know the color:loco: ..HELP!!:eek:

DP_Michelle G
07-11-2006, 03:47 PM
180 is 115 not 120 buddy and this is the faq"s no asking shit in here.

riznuki2
07-15-2006, 02:20 PM
hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD.

riznuki2
07-15-2006, 02:27 PM
hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD. i am switching out sr20det heads and i noticed that the cam numbers on my original motor are ba23rb and aa13kd. the other head that i am going to install has cam numbers ba39ub and aa291b. i need to know which ones are the better cams
please help asap:rant2:

driftertim
08-11-2006, 12:57 PM
Jeff, No offense but youre here to help, and no question is a stupid one no matter ho many times a newbie asks. I put my own SR20DET Blacktop in my Automatic Coupe S13 without the help of Fouroms and you. This is informationsl but you have the knowledge to share it with ebveryone. If youre sick of sharing then stop posting so many freaking posts. get a life n go help people for real money in the real world. Door Knob.

srs14
08-21-2006, 12:53 AM
is there anyway to make an s14 sr head work on a s13 sr block ? i have seen write ups on fresh alloy on different oil gallies in the front of the block (s14 block has an extra oil galley for VTC) that makes it impossible...could you run an oil feed line to the vtc to make it work kinda like mating a non-v-tech honda motor with a v-tech head?

95zilvia
09-06-2006, 06:40 AM
Learned this the hard way.
For those of you that didn't know already,
SR fan shroud and clutch fan are different from KA fan shroud and clutch fan.
SR shroud is offset different.
SR clutch / fan is longer than KA setup.
KA fan won't work on SR as it will hit crank pulley

g6civcx
09-06-2006, 03:46 PM
This applies to all S cars; however, SR cars are more prone to wiring problems since most people do not know how to run wires.

How to diagnose faulty fuel pump wiring: http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=108545

What a relay is: http://www.zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=975529&postcount=20

darius_tii
12-22-2006, 10:31 AM
The Part number for K&N oil filters for a S14 blacktop is Hp-1008

if you need any cross refrencing with Nissan part numbers to ones that auto parts places are familir with just let me know,
i can do all that stuff at work
thanks
Darius

chibo
01-08-2007, 02:05 AM
Telling SR20DETs apart visually:

S15 vs S14 Engines:
S15's have higher CC injectors, they are red.
S15's have a cast divider in the turbo elbow

S14 Kouki vs S14 Zenki
Kouki S14's have fins on the head. -thank you sblack13

S14 vs S13 Engines:
Look for the bulge on the front of the engine and the slant at the back of the valve cover.
Look at the intake manifolds, the S14's intake manifold has the throttle body higher - thank you sblack13

S13 Redtop vs S13 Blacktop
Color of the valve cover (obviously)
All blacktops have fins on the head
Blacktops have a fat O2 sensor

S13 Blacktop vs S13 Type-X Blacktop
Look for the J4 ECU on the Type-X, I don't know of any visual way between the engines though.

sblack13
01-08-2007, 02:30 AM
^kouki s14's do have fins

the zenki s14 sr20's have the older style maf plug with the metal clip, and some very few later model zenki s14 sr20's thru the s15's have the newer snap plug for the maf.

Also its easy to get the s13 sr20det and s14 sr20det maf messed up they are the same plug type the s13 maf should have the following number on the maf
NOTE: You cannot use a s14 maf on a s13 or vise versa they read different.

52F00 S13
69FO1 ZENKI
69FOO KOUKI

and same goes for turbos

they all will have that number engraved on the turbo indentifcation plate

the S15 i believe is "54F00"

Zenki SR20DET S14: Code "WC" ecu
Kouki SR20DET S14: Code "NA" ecu

and there is another way to tell the s15 and s14 motors apart. The coilpacks are different between the two.

The most obvious difference between the s13 and s14 sr20det would be the intake manifold.

Also.. if your running a 300zx maf this is what safc setting you run

S13 W/ Z32 = 2in 6out
S14 W/ Z32 = 2in 5out

Are you swapping a S14 SR20DET into your s13?
what you need to know
Pretty much everything bolts up as it should in a s13 sr20det swap.
Crossmember, Driveshaft, Motor mounts bolt up, of course duh.

But!!

you need to use your old s13 speed sensor from your manual tranny.
You need to use your old s13 coolant temp sensor if you want to see your water temp.

Thats pretty much it!! and for the s14 w/ s13 sr20det it should be the direct opposite.

sblack13
01-08-2007, 02:41 AM
actually i believe the kouki fins are vertical where as the s15 are horizontally faced. Someone correct me if i'm wrong.

chibo
02-03-2007, 03:25 PM
I'd like to add something I came across a while ago and haven't seen in the FAQ, the 96-97 1.8L Suzuki Sidekick AWD Sport ignitors plug straight in to the harness and work. Part number is 33370-77E20. No ricer markup on them, as far as I've seen (I got one for $10 at a local junkyard)

jskateborders
04-13-2007, 05:03 PM
180 is 115 not 120 buddy and this is the faq"s no asking shit in here.
112
no need to be so harsh

delphis
05-19-2007, 05:31 PM
head bolt/stud removal order for sr20det and sr20de


f (Intake)
r 4__8__10__6__2
o 3__7__9___5__1
n (exhaust)
t

blownmotor
06-02-2007, 09:08 PM
o2 senser for SR20det Red top 92 300zx TT works not 87 turbo

JDMClifford
06-20-2007, 01:09 AM
just had a strange problem. my stock t25 sr20det turbo blew. my guess is the seal went bad. the simptoms staeted when it whined a little bit, then progressed to start burning oil at idle once in a while. only idle. then just burnt oil at idle all the time. so i replased it and all better now. just thought this should be here if someone had the same problem as me.

sblack13
07-23-2007, 10:37 PM
S14 SR20DET / S13 SR20DET power steering pulley's are different sizes.
So is the crank pulley where the power steering belt is mounted, be careful when ordering underdrive pulleys/belts etc etc.

For instance you cannot use

S13 SR Power steering pump w/ s13 pulley with S14 Crank Pulley
S14 SR Power Steering pump w/ s14 pulley with s13 crank pulley

wutangben
09-02-2007, 11:30 AM
Z32 NA and TT AFM look the same but are different. The difference is that the NA AFM will read up to 350hp or so, the TT one will read up to 500hp. You want the TT AFM.

wow, going through this thread looking for some info and saw this completely incorrect piece of info^ TT and NA z32 mafs are the same...

cgtdream
09-22-2007, 05:36 PM
^kouki s14's do have fins

the zenki s14 sr20's have the older style maf plug with the metal clip, and some very few later model zenki s14 sr20's thru the s15's have the newer snap plug for the maf.

Also its easy to get the s13 sr20det and s14 sr20det maf messed up they are the same plug type the s13 maf should have the following number on the maf
NOTE: You cannot use a s14 maf on a s13 or vise versa they read different.

52F00 S13
69FO1 ZENKI
69FOO KOUKI

and same goes for turbos

they all will have that number engraved on the turbo indentifcation plate

the S15 i believe is "54F00"

Zenki SR20DET S14: Code "WC" ecu
Kouki SR20DET S14: Code "NA" ecu

and there is another way to tell the s15 and s14 motors apart. The coilpacks are different between the two.

The most obvious difference between the s13 and s14 sr20det would be the intake manifold.

Also.. if your running a 300zx maf this is what safc setting you run

S13 W/ Z32 = 2in 6out
S14 W/ Z32 = 2in 5out

Are you swapping a S14 SR20DET into your s13?
what you need to know
Pretty much everything bolts up as it should in a s13 sr20det swap.
Crossmember, Driveshaft, Motor mounts bolt up, of course duh.

But!!

you need to use your old s13 speed sensor from your manual tranny.
You need to use your old s13 coolant temp sensor if you want to see your water temp.

Thats pretty much it!! and for the s14 w/ s13 sr20det it should be the direct opposite.


To add to this, i found a page on 240sx motoring that has the ECU part numbers that can tell you what engine/car combo your ecu is derived from....

http://www.240sxmotoring.com/partnumbers.html

Good luck to those who need the info, and are doing the swap ^_^

max_POWER
10-18-2007, 02:41 PM
FYI: For you s13 blacktop owners
U.S nissan part number for the "fat" o2 is 22690-48P01 (95 300zx TT)
i havent actually started the car with it installed, but it threads in fine and plugs right up in the harness.

-L(-.O)
10-29-2007, 10:49 PM
yo i just did a rhd & sr swap on my s14:aw: ,you guys said it was pretty imposible but it got done:2f2f: .Now im trying to find out how to get rid of my govern.cant go past 180km= 120mph. some one said you have to cut a wire off of the ecu..but they didnt know the color:loco: ..HELP!!:eek:

Holy f*%k balls!! this guy is bad a#$!! i refrain from posting, but after reading that, cant hold back anymore. THIS THREAD IS FAQ!!!!!!!!! NO MORE QUESTIONS!!!! INFO ONLY!!!! Mother of troy!

On the onther hand, for trouble shooting:
-If sr runs like crap after 5lbs of boost, more than likely you have serious boost leakage. Timing being too retarded, misfires but not as frequent as leaking boost. too advanced and you will expirience detonation and top end feels like crap.
-if you have a problem with sensors acting up, try using a one thats not fcuked up. if problwm still presist, then obviously its not the sensor.
-throttle body off of any sr will work, some harness are different on newer sr, so take the pig tail from engine harnes and color match/pin match.
-all o2 off srs (g20/sentra se-r/nx2000) are the same(I've used 300zx,se-r,and g20).(lost of stuff can be used off fwd sr) Working on finding starter that works possibly 01 frontier...
-maf from g20 and sentra se-r work on sr20det
-89 nissam maxima clutch works but suck
-turbo does not need a#* load of oil pressure.(Fcuk up seals if you do)
-no expirience=spending lost of money fixing fcuk -up(leave it to people who know thier xiet)
-And last but not least Nissan are NOT hondas! beware the mayham....
oh and if valves tap, check oil squirters above cams and make sure they are not clogged. have a nice day! if your a :newbie: do your hwk!

sliEighty
11-02-2007, 12:33 PM
Explain. I don't get what you mean by that.

REPLACEMENT PARTS (S13 SR20DET RED/BLACK TOP ONLY, UNLESS NOTED):
Oil filter (S13 SR20DET)
15208-53J00
91-94 Sentra SE-R

(S14SR20DET)
95 Sentra SE-R

Fuel Filter
16400-00002
1990-1996 300ZX TT

Upper injector o-ring
16618-53J00
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (small/upper)

Lower injector o-ring
16618-10V05
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (big/lower)

o2 sensor
S13 SR20DET REDTOP: 22690-19P20 ('87 280ZX)
S13 SR20DET BLACKTOP: 95 300ZX TT

Exhaust Manifold Gasket
91-94 Sentra SE-R

4 Hole Turbo Manifold gasket / 5 Hole Turbo Extension Gasket
91-96 300ZX TT (Z32)

Fuel Injectors
91-96 Z32 300ZX TT (purple plugs; 370cc)

MAF
89-90 240SX

Timing Chain Kit
91 B13 Sentra SE-R

Belts (PS, AC, alt)
Gates K050370 Alt.
K040345 PS & most AC

Spark Plugs
91 Sentra SE-R

Water Pump
JDM SR20DET Only

Head Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

IACV Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor:
'91-94 B13 Sentra SE-R

Throttle Position Sensor:
22620-53J00 ('91-'94 B13 Sentra SE-R)

That's all I can think of.

o2 sensor for the red top is from the 87' 300zx non turbo... not 87' 280zx

TSLegendary
11-07-2007, 01:45 AM
Specifications for the Red Top SR20DET
(Found on the 91-93 180SX & Silvia)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205ps @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the Black Top SR20DET
(Found on the 94-98 180SX)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the S14 Black Top SR20DET with VTC
(Found on the 95-98 Silvia)
Horsepower: 220hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
S14 SR20DET's use a different ECU and harness, these are extremely expensive and hard to find.
Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines.
The S13 uses a "low port" intake design vs. the S14 "high port" design.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375.

Specifications for the S15 Black Top SR20DET
(Found on the 99+ Silvia)
Horsepower: 250ps @ 6000rpm
Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio
Injector Size: 480cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: Inconel turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
This engine is expensive and hard to get. If you are on a tight budget, please consider other options as the money you save from buying this engine can be better used to build up a really nice red top.
Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential. The 6 speed is cool, but is not as strong as the 5 speed from the older cars. There is basically 6 gears inside the same housing that was designed to hold 5 gears. This makes the gears smaller and weaker, therby breaking more often.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Parts that fit the SR20DET here in the U.S

STOCK Nissan clutch - 89 - Nissan Maxima 240mm 9-7/16" spline 24x1

Ignitor Chip - 92+ - Infiniti Q-45

Throttle Body - 91-98 - Nissan 240SX DOHC

Oil Filter - 92-99 - Sentra/200SX SE-R

Spark Plugs - 91-99 - Sentra/200SX SE-R

MAFS(will need plug) - 89-90 - Nissan 240sx 12 valve

Exhaust Manifold Gasket - 91- Sentra SE-R

O2 Sensor - 87 - Nissan 300zx Turbo

Fuel Injectors - 95 - Nissan 300zx TT

Belts (PS, AC, ALT) - Gates K050370 Alt. K040345 PS & AC

S14 Oil Filter - 95 - Nissan Sentra SE-R

S13 Oil Filter - 91 - Nissan Sentra SE-R

T25 Turbo Gasket - 95 - Nissan 300zx TT T25 gaskets

SR Turbo Studs - VG30DE Studs part # 14064 7B000

----------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------
SR20DET wiring ECU pins and description of wire colors


(http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-1164098593086_1969_42339772)
1 - Coil Pack 1 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White

2 - Coil Pack 2 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red Yellow

3 - Tachometer signal output - Yellow Red

4 - ECCS Relay - Red Black

5 - Ignition Pulse Monitor (For Trip Comp ?)

6 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black

7 - RX data (Signal from Nissan Consult hand terminal) -Green Black

8 - Coil Pack 3 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White

9 - Coil Pack 4 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White

10 -

11 -

12 - A/T signal DT3 (autotrans gear select ?)

13 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black

14 - CLK clock (timing signal) - Green White

15 - TX data (signal to Nissan Consult hand terminal) - Green

16 - MAFS signal input ( Mass Air Flow Sensor ) - White

17 - MAFS ground - Black

18 - Water Temp Sensor input - Blue Brown

19 - Oxyen Sensor input (O2) - White

20 - TPS input (throttle postion sensor) - White

21 - Sensor ground - Black

22 - CAS 180deg signal (Crank angle sensor) - White

23 - CHK check (check start) ? - Green Red

24 - Monitor check Lamp (red) (fault code lamp output)

25 - Exhaust over temp warning lamp output - Orange

26 - Exhaust temp sensor inout (Behind the Cat) - Blue Yellow

27 - Detonation sensorinput (knock sensor) - White

28 - TPS for A/T (kick down switch)

29 - Sensor ground - Black

30 - CAS 180deg signal (crank angle sensor) - White

31 - CAS 1deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Black

32 - Speed sensor input - Yellow Green

33 -

34 - Start signal (from ignition switch) - Orange

35 - A/T neutral switch input - Green Orange

36 - IGN (ignition ON, from ignition switch) - Black Red

37 - TPS power output (power to throttle position sensor) - Light Green Red

38 - ECCS power - Black White

39 - ECCS ground - Black

40 - CAS 1 deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Red Black

41 - A/C on input (Air Con ON from A/C panel) - Blue Green

42 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)

43 - Power steering switch (speed proportional control output) - Purple White

44 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)

45 - Ambient air tamp sensor input - Blue White

46 - ECCS backup power - Red

47 - ECCS power - Black White

48 - ECCS ground - Black

101 - Injector No. 1 drive output - White Black

102 - EAI control solenoid output (egr valve control ?) - Orange Black

103 - Injector No.3 drive output - Green Black

104 - Fuel pump relay output - Black Purple

105 - Fuel pressure control module - Red White

106 - A/C on output (Air conditioner on relay signal) - Green Black

107 - Injector ground - Black

108 - Injector ground - Black

109 - Reverse electrical flow return circuit (alternator fail input) - Red

110 - Injector No. 2 drive output - Yellow Black

111 - Turbo boost pressure control solenoid (over boost cut ?) - Orange Black

112 - Injector No. 4 drive output - Blue Black

113 - AAC valve control (Auxiliary Air Control, Idle speed control) - Light Blue

114 -

115 -

116 - Injector ground - Black

------------------------------------------------------------


Usefull info ive used threw out the years and got saved in a folder. Thought it would be useful for some if i dropped it in here.
Peace,

True Speed-

usdm180sx
11-15-2007, 12:35 AM
ECU Codes

RED WC is from a 95-96 S14 Silvia Zenki
BLACK WC is from a 96-97 S14 Silvia Chuki (transition, different MAF plug)
NA is from a 97-98 s14 Silvia Kouki 5 speed

62 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia 5 speed
63 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia automatic

E5 is from a 94-96 180sx black top 5 speed
E6 is from a 94-96 180sx blacktop automatic

J4 is from a 97-98 180sx Kouki 5 speed
J5 is from a 97-98 180sx Kouki Automatic

Also:
S14 Zenki SR20 with Red WC ECU has a rectangle MAF plug
S14 Chuki SR20 with Black WC ECU has an oval MAF plug,
S14 Kouki SR20 with Black NA ECU has an oval MAF plug

moses
11-23-2007, 05:56 PM
This website helped me out a lot. its where i found what ECU i needed to match my harness
http://www.nodrft.com/page.php?id=25

cgtdream
12-23-2007, 07:34 PM
Ran across a couple of things today while researching wastegates.....firstly, dont know if this mod has been posted, but its called a free boost upgrade....

Details here : http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/Free-Boost-Upgrade-t12212.html

Another is vaccum line routing, which i found VERY USEFUL....
Details here:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a297/asmurf/Vaclines.jpg

sblack13
12-25-2007, 11:22 PM
I have some useful ecu pinouts I found on the net.

This is for a Zenki S14 SR20 Blacktop WC
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/9072/s14ecu1mp7.jpg
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/3926/s14ecu2nm4.jpg

and this is the Kouki S14 Blacktop and JDM S15 Pinouts (they are basically the same)
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5773/s15pinoutoy6.jpg

landins13
02-25-2008, 11:12 AM
resistance between + and - on the coil packs should be 1 ohm
compression on each cylinder should be 1.087 Kpa minimum of 883 kpa and the most that the cylinders can be off by is 98 Kpa.

I was having compression problems so i figured id post that since it was a pain to find.

clark
03-10-2008, 06:04 PM
S13 KA24DE Cam cap bolts/cam tower bolts/call them what you want, are interchangeable with S13 SR20 Cam cap bolts/cam tower bolts.

i snapped my S13 SR20 bolt while torquing it after installing RASs(yes i know i'm retarded for doing it). i honestly couldn't find anything about them on zilvia or the internet. keep in mind the "outer" cam cap bolts are longer than the "inner (closer to spark plugs)" bolts. i only used the inner, and that is all i can vouch for. hope this helps! oh yeah, and i removed the snapped bolt with an ez-out or bolt extractor (lol call it what you want)

if you would like more details, feel free to PM me

1CLNS14
04-06-2008, 06:38 PM
S14 Sr20det
13270-65f00 Valve Cover Gasket
13271-65f00 Spark Plug Gasket
13268-31u01 Valve Cover Washers (where Bolts Go Thru)
13224-2j200 Valve Cover Bolts X14
13224-52f00 Bolt (that Goes Between 2nd And 3rd Coil Pack)
21010-65f26 Or 25 Water Pump
21200-0c811 Thermostat
14036-75f00 Exaust Manifold Gasket (7 Layer)
14064-2j200 Exaust Manifold Studs X8
14037-42l02 Exaust Manifold Yolks X8
08912-8401a Exaust Manifold Nuts X8
15208-65f0c Oil Filter
11110-52f10 Oil Pan
13500-69f00 Front Cover (with Oil Pump)
08120-6201e Front Cover Bolts X10
17042-69f00 Fuel Pump
16400-41b0a Fuel Filter


S15 Spec R Sr20det
14411-91f00 Turbo
16600-91f00 Injector

Signum Temporis
04-13-2008, 10:56 PM
checking oil pressure http://img34.picoodle.com/img/img34/4/4/13/t_oilpressurem_c133e46.jpg (http://www.picoodle.com/view.php?img=/4/4/13/f_oilpressurem_c133e46.jpg&srv=img34)

wangan_cruiser
04-15-2008, 02:23 PM
sr redtop and blacktop can use an 89-90 sohc starter. i made a thread
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1910027#post1910027

pwrofdrm
05-08-2008, 03:47 PM
Most SR20DET swaps, even if they're advertised as 'Complete' do not include the SR20DET Motor Mount Brackets as are required to install the engine (duh)

You can use your stock motor mounts, but not your stock motor mount brackets which are bolted to the block.



Also, it is much easier to install the engine with the motor mounts attached to the swap and then put it in the engine bay, rather than just try to line the brackets up while the mounts are in the car.


Even if your oil pan looks good, take it off and bang it out anyway. Or buy the GReddy oil pan or a replica. Even if it doesn't look too bent in, looks may be deceiving.


When wiring your power up to the engine using a battery relocation kit, don't forget about the two power wires in the harness behind the passenger headlight that were hooked up to the stock battery terminal. Obviously you'll need power to the lower harness on the SR swap, but you need power to these two plugs as well.

DOHC20sr
06-08-2008, 03:48 PM
thought id add this hope it helps

Basically the list goes Part/Date/Part Number/Special Note
Engine:
Bare engine assembly Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 10102-50F50
Bare engine assembly Jan 1994 - Aug 1996 10102-50F52
Bare engine assembly Aug 1991 - Dec 1998 10102-50FM2
Short block engine assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 10103-50FM0
Cylinder Block and Oil Pan:
Oil jet assembly Jan 1991 - Aug 1993 11560-79E00
Timing chain oil jet Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13081-53J00
Timing chain oil jet Aug 1993 - Dec 1998 11560-1E000
Rear oil seal Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12279-18V00, 12279-30P00, 12279-1E000, 12279-53J10, 12279-85Y00, 12279-1N510
Oil pan lower baffle Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 11113-52F00
Oil pan lower baffle Jan 1994 - Dec 1998 11113-65F00
Main bearing cap bolts Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12293-53J00
Dipstick Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11140-52F00
Dipstick tube Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11150-52F00
Crankcase plate baffle Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11038-53J00
Rear oil seal retainer Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12297-53J00
Oil pan Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11110-52F10
Upper oil pan Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11110-52F01
Upper oil pan baffle Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11113-53J02
Rear engine plate Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 30411-52F00 Plate between engine and tranny
Rear plate cover Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 30417-52F00 Plate on back of upper oil pan
Valve Cover/Cylinder Head:
Spark plug cover Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13287-50F01
Spark plug cover bolt Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 01131-40F01
Valve cover nut Jan 1991 - Nov 1992 01217-00181
Valve cover nut Nov 1992 - Jan 1994 01217-00221
Valve cover nut Jan 1994 - Dec 1998 08918-20610
Valve cover washer Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13268-97E00
Valve cover stud Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13508-53J00
Valve cover red Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 13264-50F02
Valve cover black Jan 1994 - Dec 1998 13264-50F03
Valve cover gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13270-52F00
Valve cover spark gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13271-52F00
Headgasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11044-50F01
Oil cap assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 15255-40F01, 15255-1P101
Cylinder head assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11040-52F00
PCV Valve Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11810-79E01
Intake valve seat Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 11098-53J60
Intake valve seat Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 11098-1E765
Exhaust valve seat Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 11099-53J60
Exhaust valve seat Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 11099-53J65
Timing chain Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13028-53J03
Chain guide slack side Jan 1991 - Sep 1996 13091-53J01, 13091-2J200
Chain guide slack side Sep 1996 - Sep 1997 13091-2J200, 13091-2J201
Chain guide slack side Sep 1997 - Dec 1998 13091-2J201, 13091-2J202
Chain guide tension side Jan 1991 - Oct 1997 13085-53J00, 13085-1N500
Chain guide tension side Oct 1997 - Dec 1998 13085-1N500
Timing chain tensioner Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13070-2J200, 13070-2J203
Cam sprocket (intake) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13024-53J01
Cam sprocket (exhaust) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13095-52F00
Camshaft (intake) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13020-1E000
Camshaft (exhaust) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13020-50F12
Rocker arm Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13257-53J03
Hydraulic lash adjuster Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13234-53J01
Rocker shim (T=2.800) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J00
Rocker shim (T=2.825) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J01
Rocker shim (T=2.850) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J02
Rocker shim (T=2.875) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J03
Rocker shim (T=2.900) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J04
Rocker shim (T=2.925) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J05
Rocker shim (T=2.950) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J06
Rocker shim (T=2.975) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J07
Rocker shim (T=3.000) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J08
Rocker shim (T=3.025) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J09
Rocker shim (T=3.050) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J10
Rocker shim (T=3.075) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J11
Rocker shim (T=3.100) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J12
Rocker shim (T=3.125) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J13
Rocker shim (T=3.150) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J14
Rocker shim (T=3.175) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J15
Rocker shim (T=3.200) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13229-53J16
Rocker arm guide Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13218-53J00
Valve spring collet Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13210-D4200
Valve spring retainer Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13209-53J00
Valve spring Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13203-53J00
Valve spring seat Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13205-53J00
Intake valve oil seal Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13207-84A00 NDK
Intake valve oil seal Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13207-D4201 NOK
Intake valve Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 13201-53J00
Intake valve Jan 1994 - Dec 1998 13201-1E700, 13201-1E710
Exhaust valve oil seal Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 13207-53F00 NOK
Exhaust valve oil seal Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13207-D0111 NDK
Exhaust valve Jan 1991 - Feb 1996 13202-53J01
Exhaust valve Feb 1991 - Dec 1998 13202-53J02
Front Cover:
Oil pump assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13500-50F00
Front main seal Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 13510-40F00, 13510-53J10 NDK
Front main seal Jan 1994 - Aug 1996 13510-53J00 NDK
Front main seal Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 13510-53J01 NOK
Front main seal Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 13510-53J10, 13510-53J11 NOK
Front main seal Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 13510-53J11 NDK
Oil pump gear set Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 15020-50F00, 15020-79E00
Oil pump regulator valve set Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 15132-50F00
Engine and Tranny Mount:
Engine mount right Jan 1991 - Apr 1991 11210-40F00
Engine mount right Apr 1991 - Dec 1998 11210-52F00, 11210-65F11
Engine mount left Jan 1991 - Apr 1991 11220-40F00
Engine mount left Apr 1991 - Dec 1998 11220-52F00, 11220-65F06, 11220-85F00
Tranny mount Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11320-35F01
Tranny crossmember Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11340-35F00
Engine - Bottom End:
Piston ring set (standard) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12033-53J00, 12033-53J01
Piston ring set (0.20 oversize) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12035-53J00
Crank Sprocket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13021-53J00
Crankshaft assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12200-60J10
Piston with pin (standard-1) Jan 1991 - Jul 1993 A2010-79E60
Piston with pin (standard-2) Jan 1991 - Jul 1993 A2010-79E61
Piston with pin (standard-3) Jan 1991 - Jul 1993 A2010-79E62
Piston with pin (0.20 oversize) Jan 1991 - Jul 1993 A2010-79E71
Piston with pin (standard-1) Jul 1993 - Dec 1998 A2010-54C00, A2010-75F60
Piston with pin (standard-2) Jul 1993 - Dec 1998 A2010-54C01, A2010-75F61
Piston with pin (standard-3) Jul 1993 - Dec 1998 A2010-54C02, A2010-75F62
Piston with pin (0.20 oversize) Jul 1993 - Dec 1998 A2010-54C10, A2010-75F76
Connecting rod assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12100-79E00
Con rod bearing (standard-0) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 12111-1N500
Con rod bearing (standard-1) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 12111-1N501
Con rod bearing (standard-2) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 12111-1N502
Con rod bearing (standard-0) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 12111-60J00, 12111-1N500
Con rod bearing (standard-1) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 12111-60J01, 12111-1N501
Con rod bearing (standard-2) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 12111-60J02, 12111-1N502
Con rod bearing (US 0.12) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 12117-1N500
Con rod bearing (US 0.12) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 12117-60J00
Con rod bearing (US 0.25) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 12118-1N500
Con rod bearing (US 0.25) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 12118-60J00, 12118-1N500
Con rod bearing (US 0.8) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 12122-1N500
Con rod bearing (US 0.8) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 12122-60J00
Crank bearing (standard-0) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12207-60J00
Crank bearing (standard-1) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12207-60J01
Crank bearing (standard-2) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12207-60J02
Crank bearing (standard-3) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12207-60J03
Crank bearing (standard-4) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12207-60J04
Crank bearing (standard-5) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12207-60J05
Crank bearing (standard-6) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12207-60J06
Crank bearing set (US 0.25) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12208-60J00
Thrust washer Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12280-60J00
Crankshaft pulley Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12303-52F00
Crankshaft pulley bolt Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12309-29S00
Clutch:
Flywheel assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12310-79E11, 12310-79E12
Flywheel bolt Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 12315-52F00
Pilot bushing Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 32202-B9500
Intake/Exhaust Manifold:
Upper intake manifold Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14001-52F00 Connects to head
Lower intake manifold collector Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14010-52F00 Connects to throttle body
Throttle body gasket Jan 1991 - Mar 1993 16175-53J00
Throttle body gasket Mar 1993 - Dec 1998 16175-79S70, 16175-79S71
Intake manifold gasket to head Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14035-53J10
Intake manifold middle gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14032-52F00
Throttle cable bracket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16165-52F00
Throttle cable insulator Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 18316-52F00
Throttle body Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16118-52F00, 16118-52F05
Throttle position sensor Jan 1991 - Jun 1997 22620-53J00, 22620-53J01
Throttle position sensor Jun 1997 - Dec 1998 22620-31U01
Throttle cable pulley Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16134-52F00
Idle air control valve Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 23781-50F05 Tousoku
Idle air control valve Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 23781-50F15 Atsugi
Idle air control valve gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 23785-50F00
Exhaust manifold gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14036-53J00
Exhaust manifold Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14004-50F00
Exhaust manifold stud Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 08267-03010
Exhaust manifold stud Aug 1996 - Jun 1997 14065-75F00
Exhaust manifold stud Jun 1997 - Dec 1998 14064-2J200
Exhaust manifold washer Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14037-42L02
Exhaust manifold nut Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 08912-8401A
Turbocharger:
Turbocharger Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14411-50F00
Manifold to turbo gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14415-17M00
Turbo to O2 pipe gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14445-26E00
O2 extension Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14440-50F01
Locking washer plate Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14495-17F00
Oil return tube Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 15197-50F00
Oil return gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 15196-79E00
Lubricating System:
Oil filter bracket assembly Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 15238-52F01
Oil pickup tube/strainer Jan 1991 - Sep 1993 15050-52F00, 15050-52F01
Oil pickup tube/strainer Sep 1993 - Dec 1998 15050-65F01
Oil pickup O-ring seal Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 15059-V5001
Oil pickup O-ring seal Jan 1994 - Dec 1998 15053-1E400
Cooling:
Waterpump Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21010-52F01
Waterpump pulley Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21051-65F00
Clutch fan clutch Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21082-52F00
Clutch fan fan Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21060-52F00
Upper waterneck Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 11060-52F00, 11060-52F01
Upper waterneck Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 11060-65F00, 11060-65F01
Lower water inlet Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 13049-52F00
Thermostat Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21200-53J00, 21200-53J10, 21200-0C810
Thermostat housing Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 11061-52F05
Engine coolant temp sensor Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 22630-V5010, 22630-51E00
Engine coolant temp sensor Jan 1994 - Aug 1996 22630-51E00, 22630-51E02
Engine coolant temp sensor Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 22630-43Y00, 22630-44B10
Engine coolant temp sensor Aug 1996 - Oct 1997 22630-44B10, 22630-44B20
Engine coolant temp sensor Oct 1997 - Dec 1998 22630-44B20
Radiator Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21410-52F11
Resevoir tank Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21721-35F01
Upper radiator shroud Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21476-52F00
Lower radiator shroud Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 21477-35F00
Fuel system:
Fuel injector Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16600-50F00, 16600-50F02, 16600-50F10, 16600-50F12
Small injector O-ring Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16618-53J00
Large injector O-ring Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16618-10V05
Injector insulator Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16635-53J00
Injector rubber back cap Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16619-53J00
Fuel rail Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 17520-52F00
Fuel pressure regulator Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 22670-52F00
Fuel pump Jan 1991 - May 1991 17042-35F00
Fuel pump May 1991 - Dec 1998 17042-73L02
Intake:
Mass air flow sensor Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 22680-52F00
Compressor inlet tube Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16577-50F00 bolts to turbo
Compressor inlet tube gasket Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14465-54C00
Intake rubber tube Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 16578-50F01
Ignition System:
Coilpack Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 22448-50F01
Coilpack harness Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 24079-50F00
Igniter chip (PTU) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 22020-50F00, 22020-50F01, 22020-50F10
Knock sensor Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 22060-30P00
Camshaft position sensor (CAS) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 23731-50F02
Electronics:
Wastegate control solenoid Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 14956-50F00
Oxygen sensor Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 22690-50F00
Oxygen sensor Jan 1994 - Dec 1998 22690-50F02
Oxygen sensor holding nut Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 20607-V5000
Oxygen sensor holding nut Jan 1994 - Dec 1998 20607-P6500
ECU Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 23710-50F00 MT
ECU Jan 1994 - Aug 1996 23710-50F05 MT
ECU Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 23710-50F10 AT
ECU Jan 1994 - Aug 1996 23710-50F15 AT
ECU Aug 1996 - May 1997 23710-60F06 MT
ECU May 1997 - Dec 1998 23710-60F07 MT
ECU Aug 1996 - May 1997 23710-60F16 AT
ECU May 1997 - Dec 1998 23710-60F17 AT
Alternator Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 23100-52F10, 23100-52F11
Alternator Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 23100-65F17
Starter Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 23300-52F01, 23300-80F00
Tachometer gauge Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 24825-52F00
Tachometer gauge Jan 1994 - Aug 1996 24825-52F20
Temperature sensor Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 25080-89903
Temperature sensor Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 25080-89907
Power Steering:
Power steering pump Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 49110-52F00 2WS
Power steering pump Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 49110-52F60 4WS Hicas
Transmission:
Clutch slave cylinder Jan 1991 - Mar 1997 30620-18V01, 30620-69F01, 30620-69F02, 30620-69F03
Clutch slave cylinder Mar 1997 - Dec 1998 30620-0H620
SR20DET transmission Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 32010-50F00, 32010-50F20, 32010-50F21, 32010-50F22
SR20DET transmission Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 32010-69F10
SR20DET front belhousing shell Jan 1991 - Apr 1995 32101-50F00
SR20DET front belhousing shell Apr 1995 - Dec 1998 32101-50F01
Speed sensor assembly Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 25010-35F00 Same as US S13
Speed sensor assembly Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 25010-71T00
Speed sensor pinion gear Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 32743-35F20
Speed sensor pinion gear Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 32743-71T20
Driveline/Suspension:
Output flange (right 5 star) Jan 1991 - Oct 1995 38220-53F00, 38220-93L00
Output flange (right 6 bolt) Oct 1995 - Dec 1998 38220-92L00
Output flange (left 5 star) Jan 1991 - Oct 1995 38220-53F01
Output flange (left 6 bolt) Oct 1995 - Dec 1998 38220-52F01
Half shaft (right 5 star) Jan 1991 - Oct 1995 39600-73L00
Half shaft (right 6 bolt) Oct 1995 - Dec 1998 39600-35F00
Half shaft (left 5 star) Jan 1991 - Oct 1995 39601-73L00
Half shaft (left 6 bolt) Oct 1995 - Dec 1998 39601-35F10
Front strut tower bar Dec 1995 - Aug 1996 E4390-50F00
Front strut tower bar Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 E4390-60F00
Nismo front strut tower bar Jan 1996 - Aug 1998 E4420-RN521
Rear swaybar Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 56230-39F03 Other Desired JDM 180SX Parts:
Digital climate control Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 27510-52F00
Digital climate control Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 27510-60F01
Digital control subharness Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 24042-52F00
Resister for climate control Jan 1991 - Jan 1994 27150-51E01
Resister for climate control Jan 1994 - Aug 1996 27150-51E05
Cabin temp sensor Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 27720-35F03
Sunload sensor Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 27721-35F00
Kouki front bumper cover Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 F2022-60F** **varies by color
Kouki optional lip spoiler Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 K6010-60F50
Kouki fender side piece (left) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 62025-60F**
Kouki fender side piece (right) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 62024-60F**
Chuki side skirt (left) Dec 1995 - Aug 1996 76851-51F81, 76851-51F25
Chuki side skirt (right) Dec 1995 - Aug 1996 76850-51F81, 76850-51F25
Side skirt #2 (kit) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 G6850-40F**
Side skirt #2 (left) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 G6852-40F10
Side skirt #2 (right) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 G6851-40F10
Kouki side skirt kit #2 Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 G6850-60F**
Kouki side skirt (front-left) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 76853-60F**
Kouki side skirt (front-right) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 76852-60F**
Kouki side skrit (rear-left) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 76857-60F**
Kouki side skirt (rear-right) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 76856-60F**
Kouki rear spoiler Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 K6030-60F25, K6030-60F26
Kouki rear valence kit Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 H5910-60F**
Rear valence kit Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 H5910-51F**
Rear valence (left) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 H5913-51F10
Rear valence (middle) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 H5911-51F10
Rear valence (right) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 H5912-51F10
180SX side glass (right) Jan 1991 - Jan 1995 83300-47F00
180SX side glass (right) Jan 1995 - Dec 1998 83300-47F01
180SX side glass (right) Sep 1997 - Dec 1998 83300-47F02
180SX side glass (left) Jan 1991 - Jan 1995 83301-47F00
180SX side glass (left) Jan 1995 - Dec 1998 83301-47F01
180SX side glass (left) Sep 1997 - Dec 1998 83301-47F02
180SX Rain guards Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 G3810-40F00
Kouki front seat (back assy) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 87600-60F00 Both sides
Kouki front seat (cushion assy) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 87300-60F00 Right side
Kouki front seat (headrest) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 86400-80F10 Both sides
Kouki front seat (cushion assy) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 87350-60F00 Left side
Kouki rear seat (back assy) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 88600-60F00
Kouki rear seat (cushion assy) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 88300-60F00
180SX Key (with 180SX logo) Jan 1991 - Dec 1998 KEY00-00135
Zenki front turn signal (right) Mar 1989 - Jan 1991 B6120-44F00
Zenki front turn signal (left) Mar 1989 - Jan 1991 B6125-44F00
Chuki front turn signal (right) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 B6120-50F00
Chuki front turn signal (left) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 B6125-50F00
Kouki front turn signal (right) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 B6130-60F00
Kouki front turn signal (left) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 B6135-60F00
Front amber sidemarker (right) Mar 1989 - Dec 1998 26160-47F00
Front amber sidemarker (left) Mat 1989 - Dec 1998 26165-47F00
Kouki parking light (right) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 B6170-60F00
Kouki parking light (left) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 B6175-60F00
180SX rear center light Mar 1989 - Aug 1996 26540-47F00
Kouki tail light (right) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 B6550-60F00
Kouki tail light (left) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 B6555-60F00
Kouki tail light (center) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 26540-60F**
Kouki tail center (carbon?) Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 K0810-60F00
Kouki rear trim panal Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 85230-60F00
Navan steering wheel Jan 1991 - May 1995 D840V-11100
Navan steering wheel (Hicas) Jan 1991 - May 1995 D840V-11130
Momo steering wheel Aug 1996 - Dec 1998 D8400-C9901

DDDsquad_s13panda
02-25-2009, 08:03 PM
DIDNT SEE NO FAQ's ABOUT THE N/A SR's, So here my share of a couple things:

Distributor rotor : nissan 200NX
Distributor cap: DOHC KA(must be mitsubishi equip) SE-R AND G20 caps wont work.
AND due to the direction of the port's you'll need the DOHC KA sparkplug wires
RWD-SR20DET/DE clutch are identical
DOHC KA PS can fit to SR20DE/DET , but you have to swap the tension bracket and pulleys

thats all i came across so far with my N/A SR.

wangan_cruiser
06-26-2009, 02:55 PM
sr flywheel torque spec


flywheel - 94-101 ft lbs.
clutch cover - 25-34 ft lbs.


need to use threadlock for safety.

cobras89
07-16-2009, 08:24 PM
Sr blocks are alum, with steel sleeves.

Sr intake manifolds vary. S13 has a long runner manifold, and s14 has a short runner. You can tell the diff, because the s13 manifold has the throttle body under the manifold, and s14 has it about even with the height of the valve cover.

Sr blocks use the upper oil pan for block reinforcement.

Sr20det motors really need an oil cooler. (track)

Oil Filter: Pull off the intake manifold support brackets under the manifold, or you will wish you never had to change your oil again.

sr20 motors dont like ka fuel filters (z32)

Dont raise the boost unless you have an aftermarket fuel pump.

Sr20det trannys are weak.

S15 trannys are even weaker.

Keep your ignitor away from heat (exhaust manifold)

When setting ignition timing with a light, timing marks on crank pully may not be accurate unless you zero the cas (cam angle sensor).

Invest in rocker arm stoppers.

T25 turbos suck.

You better do a good job rerouting the coolant line behind the head for the turbo. Because changing it while the motors in sucks.

ehh.




correction: only remove the intake manifold support bracket if you are going to remove the oil filter from underneath the car. if you want to go from up top and save a lot of time. buy a oil filter cap wrench and use your socket wrench to twist it off. now you wont have to wish that you never had to change your oil again. :hsdance:

Z33dori
09-08-2009, 02:25 PM
Block Dowels are the same for all SR20s ... not sure if its been mentioned.

part number
11053-01M00

usdm180sx
10-31-2009, 01:34 PM
Nissan has a part number for spark plugs. They are NGK 7 cold rating copper spark plugs. The part number is 22401-20J07. They come gapped at .35 so they need to be regapped to .28. Why does this matter? Because these plugs only cost $2.90 each.

oni jake
11-25-2009, 01:58 PM
I'll post some information I have on S15 ECU codes because the internet is massively failing me at the moment.


So far I've encountered 2 coded ECU's for S15's. Both from the Japanese Market.


Some information from Pete at PLMS developments:
Traditionally Nissan start off with "00" at the start of the model run and just increment each time there's an update. These are nearly all incremental. So you can swap anything in the series. We've got 91F 00, 01, 05, 06, & 07. These are all JDM images. Autos are 10 and 11. Aussie S15's are 93F00, 01 etc.


The ECU codes that I both have and tested on my JDM S15 motor are "QT" and "NQ"

QT part number is 23710 91f05
NQ part number is 23710 91f08

So from the above paragraph you can see why Pete's conclusion makes sense.

Also just some good information to have:

Usually the best images are actually the early ones! What seems to happen is that they release the model and then tunes are updated based on feedback from dealers. From what I can work out this must often be complaints about detonation - due to inferior fuels and/or local conditions (like here in Oz we have lesser fuel than Japan and hotter weather). So they richen mixtures and lessen IGN timing figures = less power.

spools420a
05-19-2010, 04:17 PM
the sr20det equiped in the pulsar gti-r have a larger t28 turbo with a .86 a/r exhaust housing,The s14 and s15 have .64 a/r.

nismolvr
07-23-2010, 04:30 PM
I have searched the web and used FSM and found limited info on how to fix code 34.I found write ups on how to bypass the sensor using a resistor,did not want to go that route ,cause if i did and my engine did begin to ping/knock The ECU would not be able to retard timing ,thus preventing engine damage,just want to protect my investment.
1.code 34 means there is something wrong with the knock sensor circuit.It does not mean your engine is knocking.
2.The knock sensor is a Resistor and should read 560M Ohms.
3.on ECU pin 27 (white wire) should produce 5volts with knock sensor disconnected KOEO. KS plug is located between intake runners 3 and 4 disconect it before checking supplied voltage.If OK move on to next step
4.With the KS plug still being disconected check resistance from A (white wire) to engine ground ,it should read 560ohms,wiggle wire connection under manifold ,if resistance changes ,theres your problem,remove KS and check plug and KS for cracks .Replace if ks is out of specs.

This is how the knock circuit works, ECU supplies 5 volts to knock sensor ,KS has a base resistance of 560M ohms when the engine is not knocking.The voltage is stepped down to 2.5 volts (this is normal).

When the KS senses knocking vibration or pinging the sensor changes resistance in the circuit ,this causes the Voltage to oscillate above and below 2.5volts.Then the ECU retards timing in order to prevent engine damage.

Best thing to do on an sr20det powered 240 is to hook up the Consult Diagnostic coinnector and buy a USB to serial Consult cable and download some free software .hook it up to a laptop and you can instantly read all sensor voltages and codes ,I hated doing the LED flashing sequence crap.Otherwise theres no way to really know if we have a code ,I mean we dont have a functional "check engine light"on our gauge cluster to let us know.You can tell when your engine is running like crap tho,but As far as having to do the Flashing LED On the ECU ,forget that!This way is much easier.

nismoninjagtr
12-17-2010, 02:16 PM
1999 honda civic si ngk v-power spark plugs work in the rwd SR20DET

S14chicka
01-19-2011, 09:10 PM
Anyone wanna explain the difference between a s13 sr20det blacktop and the s14 sr20 blacktop?

1sttime240driver
01-21-2011, 10:23 PM
I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?

jr_ss
01-22-2011, 05:24 AM
Anyone wanna explain the difference between a s13 sr20det blacktop and the s14 sr20 blacktop?

I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?

Both of you need to search... This isn't a Q&A thread, it is strictly for information.

Nissan SR20DET - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SR20DET)

Ichiban1
02-26-2011, 09:39 AM
The S14 oil filter 15208-65F0C can be replaced with the much larger Purolator oil filter L14610 or the Super Tech ST 7317 (Walmart brand).

Damnthats13
05-03-2011, 05:38 PM
This is my problem, I installed an aftermarket turbo manifold (Megan) and a aftermarket intake manifold (Freddy). My car cranks up and starts to idle back and forth from high to low then about 10 seconds it will cut off. I have no clue where to begin looking at. Can somebody lend me some help with this issue, thanks.

rb25_s13*CHUKI
06-10-2011, 09:57 PM
Fuckin love sr20, Kas are weaaaaaaaaak

initial240sx
06-24-2011, 09:35 AM
hi, i need some advices, i want to buy the full gasket kit from Cometic... now, this kit comes with A HG 87.5x1.2mm, and the OEM is 86mm bore size... this 1.5mm gap is confusing me... too risky or it doesnt going to affect? should i buy it or find another HG size?

S13 SR20DET RedTop T25 7-12psi

usdm180sx
06-24-2011, 09:49 AM
hi, i need some advices, i want to buy the full gasket kit from Cometic... now, this kit comes with A HG 87.5x1.2mm, and the OEM is 86mm bore size... this 1.5mm gap is confusing me... too risky or it doesnt going to affect? should i buy it or find another HG size?

S13 SR20DET RedTop T25 7-12psi

Cometic is junk get an Apex hg

ka24depaul
06-27-2011, 06:49 PM
SR20det Red top or Black top?? Whats the difference??(Besides the years of the engines.).

JDMxJosh
07-10-2011, 03:17 AM
sr20det red top or black top?? Whats the difference??(besides the years of the engines.).

read previous posts -___-;

brudacille
07-10-2011, 02:12 PM
read previous posts -___-;

+100 for u

supramon808
07-29-2011, 09:22 PM
Hi sry for being a noob...bought my 1997 kouki with an s13 redtop sr20det swap to it...was reading really hot when the engine was cold..did some research and found out that the people that installed the sr20det didnt swap the temperature sensor for the gauge..bought one for 1997 ka24de (chassis wise) and now its working how it suppose to....now as for the other sensor that goes to the ECU...do i need to swap that too with one from a 1997 KA24de... cuz i read stories of sr20det swaps running rich because of the temp sensor for the ECU...also i saw a writeup of a non turbo SR20de swap..the person who wrote it sed swap both temp sensors..because if u dnt swap the sensor that gives info to the ECU it will run rich..i was wondering if this would apply to my situation or the s13 SR20det...do i need to replace it with one from a 1997 ka24de? also seems like im running rich because car is giving poor gas mileage...

ultimateirving
08-11-2011, 02:23 PM
bought one for 1997 ka24de (chassis wise) and now its working how it suppose to....now as for the other sensor that goes to the ECU...do i need to swap that too with one from a 1997 KA24de... cuz i read stories of sr20det swaps running rich because of the temp sensor for the ECU...also i saw a writeup of a non turbo SR20de swap..the person who wrote it sed swap both temp sensors..because if u dnt swap the sensor that gives info to the ECU it will run rich..i was wondering if this would apply to my situation or the s13 SR20det..also seems like im running rich because car is giving poor gas mileage...



it is possible, i used a CTS of a 91 se'r. and it runs beautifully. I didnt even think my sensor was bad, but after swapping it ran much smoother.

K_style
08-11-2011, 02:26 PM
Start it. I will delete unnecessary and off topic posts.
This thread should be something along the lines of how hard is the swap, what's required. Power level stages, build ups, cost tally, and power levels. Warnings and things to watch out for during swap, mods.
I figure this will save alot of heartache as noobs can read this thread and not post stupid questions.
-Jeff

I though it was a pretty clear in the beginning..
Please no questions in the thread.

titopkz505
08-16-2011, 11:41 AM
Specifications for the Red Top SR20DET

(Found on the 91-93 180SX & Silvia)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205ps @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the Black Top SR20DET

(Found on the 94-98 180SX)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the S14 Black Top SR20DET with VTC

(Found on the 95-98 Silvia)
Horsepower: 220hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
S14 SR20DET's use a different ECU and harness, these are extremely expensive and hard to find.
Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines.
The S13 uses a "low port" intake design vs. the S14 "high port" design.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375.

Specifications for the S15 Black Top SR20DET

(Found on the 99+ Silvia)
Horsepower: 250ps @ 6000rpm
Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio
Injector Size: 480cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: Inconel turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
This engine is expensive and hard to get. If you are on a tight budget, please consider other options as the money you save from buying this engine can be better used to build up a really nice red top.
Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential. The 6 speed is cool, but is not as strong as the 5 speed from the older cars. There is basically 6 gears inside the same housing that was designed to hold 5 gears. This makes the gears smaller and weaker, therby breaking more often.

Hope it helps with the back and forth on engine specs

ShadowMan
08-24-2011, 12:20 PM
Just throwing this out there. Oil eats rubber, or more specifically any petroleum based products deteriorate rubber based products. Hence water based lubes with your condoms. So to the "know it all's" on here knocking people for dumb questions, then giving crappy advice, take a second and think about when you didnt know shit either. Otherwise, anyone new to working on their car who comes here for help is going to be coming back and asking why this fell apart or that this new hose that they slipped on with a little oil just split 3-6 months later, and you'll have to be annoyed and tell them to go search some obscure post sprinkled with bad advice again.

ultimateirving
09-02-2011, 05:03 PM
what is the best plugs for an e85 tune? low psi, around 16psi

trsebert
11-18-2011, 03:06 PM
OMFG the next person that asks a question I vote gets banned. I just started reading this thread because I figured it would be full of great information to frequently asked questions, but what did I find? A bunch of noobs asking questions about their own personal problems and questions. STOP FUCKING ASKING QUESTIONS IN HERE AND POST UP ONLY IF YOU HAVE GOOD RELIABLE INFOR-FUCKING-MATION!!!!!!
/rant

Most simple boost leak test (for more minor leaks) spray bottle full of soapy water, spray on IC piping couplers, look for bubbles.

When replacing thermostat, one of the first things that you should change before installing motor, make sure to take the rubber ring off the edge of the t-stat. It won't seat right otherwise, at least in redtop.

AC = easy on the SR. I took KA suction, and high pressure lines, and used the SR compressor fittings that came on the SR compressor (assuming it came with your motor) and took to custom hose maker/fabricator, they welded aluminum SR fittings onto KA lines. Hint: there is a discharge/fill nipple on one of the lines right near the intake inlet on the turbo. when you have the hoses mated, you will want the section with the nipple on it rotated to parallel with the ground, so it doesnt get in the way of the intake tubing(stock). And make sure to replace all o-rings and the accumulator/collection tank.

I've got some more stuff, just got to dig it out of the back of my head.

IwantAs13
01-05-2012, 11:09 PM
Im a n00b, but does anyone know or have a picture of a sr-20 labeled. I know what the headers and downpipes n shit like that are, but more of inside the engine block. Also how the engine works. sorry for the lame ass questions, no one in my family knows anything about cars

khalimadeath
01-29-2012, 08:51 PM
Im a n00b, but does anyone know or have a picture of a sr-20 labeled. I know what the headers and downpipes n shit like that are, but more of inside the engine block. Also how the engine works. sorry for the lame ass questions, no one in my family knows anything about cars



I know its tempting to post a question in a thread dedicated to info only but it makes it much more difficult for someone like me searching for an answer. So if you would read even a page of posts you would see half the posts in this thread are telling dumb-asses like you to search for the info..ITT none the less. Here are some links that have helped me along the way...

SR20DET wiring ECU pins and description of wire colors (http://www.240sxmotoring.com/srwiecupiand.html)

Nissan 240sx Performance, Modification, Repair and DIY Articles - by NICOclub.com (http://www.240sxtech.com/)

.: Ultimate 240SX Guide: ECU Pinout Diagrams :. (http://www.midweststreets.com/240SX/ecupin.html)

jasonb
02-03-2012, 11:10 PM
s13 blacktop ecu spits out 0-5v square wave on tach output. i needed that info bad when wiring in my AIM dash which expects 0-12v square. a 47k ohm pullup resistor worked perfect for me. note: i've never tried using a dash other than the AIM so ymmv. If you use a pullup, i would recommend using a switched 12v power so you don't pull current through the ecu 24/7.

Pommy1705
02-13-2012, 04:27 AM
Hi guys

Im new to this not sure how to post a new topic, I've just put the blacktop sr20det back into my s14 after a full rebuild, I have no spark at the coils and doesn't sound like the fuel pump is going either?? Any ideas?

khalimadeath
02-17-2012, 06:13 PM
Heres a helpful page

http://alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/NISSAN%20240SX%201989-1998.pdf

run_jdm_nismoS14
02-25-2012, 05:43 PM
i have a 98 s14 blacktop and hooked my wideband and its idleing at 15.8 to 16.5... im new to the sr20det so be harsh if u must i dont car i just need help... im spitting black smoke, it sputter and shits all over its self befor boost... help ???? please

freeagent3117
02-25-2012, 06:37 PM
i have a 98 s14 blacktop and hooked my wideband and its idleing at 15.8 to 16.5... im new to the sr20det so be harsh if u must i dont car i just need help... im spitting black smoke, it sputter and shits all over its self befor boost... help ???? please

post in tech bro. this is FAQ!!!!! :bash:

Az240sxs13
02-28-2012, 10:55 PM
i have a real quick question ive been wonderin about for a long time... how much does a SR20DET weigh in a base model 240sx?(no power windows,sunroof,etc.)

thanks.

I have a 92 hatch.
Gutten
2 seats and dash
Sr20det
Base model
Weighs 2,4xx
Idk if it will help you.
If not, delete

acefrez
05-06-2012, 01:12 PM
For all of those like me that needed a complete swap guide but for some reason heavy throttle original website is close now,but I was still able to get the guide

Link: Heavy Throttle (http://web.archive.org/web/20070513175042/http://srownersclub.com/faq/index.asp)

TAP240
06-10-2012, 08:58 PM
I need to know the torque specs for the exhaust manifold and the valve cover...if someone could share those, that would be a great help!

Thanks!

steve shadows
06-13-2012, 06:33 AM
I need to know the torque specs for the exhaust manifold and the valve cover...if someone could share those, that would be a great help!

Thanks!

Hi Tap are you talking about the exahust manifold studs into the head?

The valve cover is supposed to be about 8 ft lbs for the nuts...just need to clarify if you're talking nuts or the studs.

TAP240
06-13-2012, 10:41 AM
Hi Tap are you talking about the exahust manifold studs into the head?

The valve cover is supposed to be about 8 ft lbs for the nuts...just need to clarify if you're talking nuts or the studs.

The studs are all still intact with the head, I just took the nuts off. So I was wondering what to torque the nuts at when putting my exhaust mani back on.

nunnyjr
06-24-2012, 06:15 PM
Hey i am losing boost when the motor is warm and i floor it the turbo doesnt spool it spits and sputters when the pedeal is all the way down. but when its not floored it drives fine. im confused and help would greatly be appreciated.

ultimateirving
06-25-2012, 08:47 PM
Hey i am losing boost when the motor is warm and i floor it the turbo doesnt spool it spits and sputters when the pedeal is all the way down. but when its not floored it drives fine. im confused and help would greatly be appreciated.

First thing to check, Is your intercooler pipes, more then likely you have a boost leak somewhere. Take a little time and google Build boost leak tester. By making sure you have no boost leaks you will see so much more power out of your car. Also if that doesnt work, How new are spark plugs? what are they gapped at? what boost are you running?

nunnyjr
06-25-2012, 09:18 PM
I'm running 10psi and I'm not sure what the sparkplugs are gapped at but the sputtering and spitting didn't happen today when I floored it. So could it still be a boost leak? Or somethin else?

AsleepAltima
06-25-2012, 09:24 PM
like he said, first things first. assuming all things are correct, there are some values you should always know, right off the top of your head. timing is 15* btdc, tps set to .35-.65 and spark plugs gapped to .028. you have to have these at a minimum.

ultimateirving
06-25-2012, 09:28 PM
like he said, first things first. assuming all things are correct, there are some values you should always know, right off the top of your head. timing is 15* btdc, tps set to .35-.65 and spark plugs gapped to .028. you have to have these at a minimum.

Good try man, but please, keep tps closer to .45v.. dont wanna be +/-.05v

AsleepAltima
06-25-2012, 09:34 PM
Good try man, but please, keep tps closer to .45v.. dont wanna be +/-.05vdepends where you get your info. ive seen it in fsm's saying both. i personally have mine set to .45

zneubauer
06-26-2012, 12:24 AM
Hey i am losing boost when the motor is warm and i floor it the turbo doesnt spool it spits and sputters when the pedeal is all the way down. but when its not floored it drives fine. im confused and help would greatly be appreciated.

timing possibly creating the spitting and sputtering. if its a specific turbo noise then you probably broke something. are you smoking when you do this? if so what color smoke?

mozhead
08-02-2012, 01:21 PM
I'm replacing my oil pump to my SR20 and i need the specs for it can anyone help? and by specs i mean like walk through and torque down specs

jamg
09-11-2012, 02:31 PM
great thread with lots of info

EddyPlex
09-13-2012, 10:13 PM
hey guys, had a random kinda off topic question..
what will be a good compression reading for an sr with cp pistons eagle robs, valves, metal head gasket? (s13 sr redtop)

SMatyac
09-17-2012, 10:41 AM
hey guys, had a random kinda off topic question..
what will be a good compression reading for an sr with cp pistons eagle robs, valves, metal head gasket? (s13 sr redtop)

I'm pretty sure 185ish is a good reading for an 8.5:1 motor, but if you're lower dont really worry about it, as long as the numbers are consistent and above 125.

But if the motor is 9:1 then the numbers should be a little higher, but since not all compression testers are exactly identical, some might read a tad different, so just make sure they are consistent.

But i could be wrong, somebody correct me if i am.

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rhdsilvi85
10-14-2012, 09:28 PM
Hey i have a 89 se coupe converted to rhd. Has a black top sr20 in it. Upgraded injectors 550cc, 255 walbro fp, fuel pressure reg, t28 s15 turbo and z32 maf the kid i got the car from says it's stock ecu i don't seem to beleive that because it wouldn't run from my understanding, i smell it running rich it's 3in exhaust from turbo back no cat megan exhaust. I'm trying to figure best ecu for it incase i pull this apart and it does have stock ecu in it. I need to get it tuned here in the midwest. The car runs good no issues at all so hell i dunno.. Any help would be great, i was a honda kid for awhile and my cousin let me drive his s14 silvia and i fell inlove and bought a s13. Thanks guys!

Andrewcswag
10-25-2012, 01:23 PM
im running an sr20 swap on my 89. i just bough it from a guy, and ive never heard of this problem happening. i was driving and the turbo timer got turned on, right while i pulled next to a cop. i didnt reach over to turn it off, and when it hit 0, all the power was cut from the car. at first i figured it was the turbo timer kill switch, because my e brake was down, and while i wasnt sure what happened i was being pulled over by the cop so i was trying everything i could to get power back. i thought when i did this i drained the power from the battery and all i needed to do was jump it, let the alternator charge up the battery and id be fine. turns out i was wrong, the battery is pushing 12.97 volts, and i can bump start the car easily and while its running, everything in the car has power and it tuns great, no problems at all. but the second the engine turns off, it has absolutely no power, not even enough to lock the car with my alarm system. if u try to start it, it doesnt make a single noise, and if i try to jump it it still doesnt make a noise, its just dead. does anyone have any idea what could be wring, and if so how to fix it? i feel like its something stupid and easy to fix, i just dont know where to start.

ultimateirving
10-25-2012, 01:43 PM
Hey i have a 89 se coupe converted to rhd. Has a black top sr20 in it. Upgraded injectors 550cc, 255 walbro fp, fuel pressure reg, t28 s15 turbo and z32 maf the kid i got the car from says it's stock ecu i don't seem to beleive that because it wouldn't run from my understanding, i smell it running rich it's 3in exhaust from turbo back no cat megan exhaust. I'm trying to figure best ecu for it incase i pull this apart and it does have stock ecu in it. I need to get it tuned here in the midwest. The car runs good no issues at all so hell i dunno.. Any help would be great, i was a honda kid for awhile and my cousin let me drive his s14 silvia and i fell inlove and bought a s13. Thanks guys!

Open up the ECU and you can tell if its been chipped or not. easiest way to tell

Yalanooz
11-11-2012, 08:43 AM
I bought running 95 240sx with s14 sr20det all stock except the exhaust and the intercooler, so I pulled the motor out, installed new 550cc injectors new gt2871r Garrett turbo on it, and new motor mount and put the engine back in the car and was Ideling good but I couldn't find the right ecu to tune it, so I decided to instal stock injectors back and now my car cranks but won't start, feels like no spark, any subjection what could be the cause not running ?

SMatyac
11-21-2012, 09:37 AM
I bought running 95 240sx with s14 sr20det all stock except the exhaust and the intercooler, so I pulled the motor out, installed new 550cc injectors new gt2871r Garrett turbo on it, and new motor mount and put the engine back in the car and was Ideling good but I couldn't find the right ecu to tune it, so I decided to instal stock injectors back and now my car cranks but won't start, feels like no spark, any subjection what could be the cause not running ?

Did you ever change the maf?
Also make sure you didn't forget any grounds.

s13beast
11-22-2012, 09:17 AM
Idk if this has been posted or not. ARP crossover for sr20det pressure plate bolts is part number
ARP-108-2201 2 sets are required because they only come in packs of 6. They are for a sohc honda.

benchracer206
11-22-2012, 09:59 PM
Thanks for the info guys.

Whoopsshtt
12-19-2012, 05:57 AM
Ok I have a sr20det In my 240sx it has blown head gasket I wanna fix it are there any forums on exactly how to do it???

AsleepAltima
12-19-2012, 05:23 PM
Ok I have a sr20det In my 240sx it has blown head gasket I wanna fix it are there any forums on exactly how to do it???
youre in one...

OiyItsC4ry
12-20-2012, 10:56 AM
What brake setup do you guys suggest would be the best? My KA just overheated on me and probably not going to last. Lmk thanks!

RUKUSmag
12-30-2012, 11:37 PM
Not sure if I'm in the right place, but I just picked up a 91 s13 with a ka24de and I'm looking to do an sr20det swap. I'm in Los Angeles, CA and I'm looking for a reputable shop if anyone knows someone capable and with access to a clip it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

XxSHiFTxX
01-10-2013, 06:07 PM
Has anyone ever looked into or bought a Brian Crower Stroker Kit 2.35L for a SR20DET? If you have; is it a good quality kit?

b4l
01-15-2013, 07:17 PM
Not sure if I'm in the right place, but I just picked up a 91 s13 with a ka24de and I'm looking to do an sr20det swap. I'm in Los Angeles, CA and I'm looking for a reputable shop if anyone knows someone capable and with access to a clip it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

i just started up a front clip i got from phase2 from there. perfect 10. very clean and once i got the wiring issue done it started and was purring so nice. i would go with them any day all day.

d-toxx
01-22-2013, 11:45 AM
So i have a friend with the sr20 out of a sentra was wondering if it could bolt to rwd trans or not cus id rather buy it local then have it shipped and not know if it runs will it alson boly in to a s13/14 chassie



Posted from Zilvia.net App for Android

One_love_silvia
01-23-2013, 01:21 PM
does anyone know what thread size and pitch the stock sr20 oil pan has for the turbo oil lines? im planning on getting the m7960 ARMS tomei turbo kit, and it's sized for stock sr20. I have my ka24de that i'm rebuilding, and i want to get a fitting welded on the oil pan while its off the car to save money and time. need to know asap please.

91srblacktop
01-24-2013, 07:31 PM
i have an sr20 blacktop with a trust down pipe and full 3" exhaust bosting 7lbs does anyone have a ruff estimet on hp range????

NHTKID
02-01-2013, 04:03 AM
ya 180-190 ^

NHTKID
02-01-2013, 04:04 AM
10 lbs is stock, not 7lbs. and 205 stock rating is not at the wheels..

Mikester
02-01-2013, 07:16 AM
does anyone know what thread size and pitch the stock sr20 oil pan has for the turbo oil lines? im planning on getting the m7960 ARMS tomei turbo kit, and it's sized for stock sr20. I have my ka24de that i'm rebuilding, and i want to get a fitting welded on the oil pan while its off the car to save money and time. need to know asap please.

The oil return that goes to the pan is a tube with a hose connection, not a line. The turbine oil system is basically a gravity-feed where the oil comes in the top and drains out the bottom. Get a piece of tube that is the same diameter as the oil drain on the turbine and weld that in. Pic of my M8270 mounted:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8045/8133489592_84e447265e_b_d.jpg

Note the drain to the pan is a tube with a hose connected to it (black tube on bottom of turbo). Weld an identically sized tube plumbed to the oil pan for a return, and you will be golden.


You will love the M7960 btw =)

cotbu
02-01-2013, 08:00 AM
The turbine oil system is basically a gravity-feed where the oil comes in the top and drains out the bottom.
This is only half true. It's pressure fed, and gravity drain.

Mikester
02-01-2013, 08:34 AM
^^touche^^ ;)

cgtdream
02-04-2013, 08:34 PM
One of the better SR20 install guides out there...Protip, applies specifically to the s14 blacktop and way better than that outdated HeavyThrottle guide.

Tune2Win | Do-It-Yourself Tech Articles | Nissan 240SX SR20DET Engine Swap Guide Part 1 (http://www.tune2win.com/index.php/diy_tech/nissan_240sx_sr20det_engine_swap_guide/)

40craz
02-20-2013, 11:28 AM
Ok guys might be a bit of a noob question but how much did you guys put into your sr builds to get to about a good 350 hp or an amount of power that was at least fun to play with. My reason for asking like this is i have bigger plans for my 240 but would like to have some power to play with while i await my 2jz build just wanted to see if the sr was worth it thanks.

Danger_Dorn
02-26-2013, 03:22 PM
Hey guys, Just swapped in a stock redtop into an s14 (95). I used a new wiring specialties upper and lower harness, checked it 3 times before install. I have a battery relocation to the trunk and the battery negative is grounded to the spare tire stud in the center. Ok now the problem

1st Question: When I plugged what I'm pretty damn sure was everything up, I didnt get ANY power anywhere. I blew the battery fuse "FL". I then checked my wiring once more after calling wiring specialties and they said jump the fuse for a moment with the lights on and watch for signs of life...all I got was smoke from the connection. I know its a ground but what is the most common? Should I add a ground from the intak manifold to the chassis? Its grounded through the harness already but maybe its not enough. Whats going on?

2nd Question: I have a gas tank FULL of 87 octane fuel. I already swapped my fuel pump for a walbro 255. Will I be ok for this tank or should I add some octane booster? Or go through the pain or replacing all the fuel? FML Thanks guys.

SOLUTION: I figured out my problem, I had forgotten to place a spacer in between the alternator shell and positive cable...wow

And as far as the fuel issue, I just dumped in octane booster, worked great.

Sthirteen90
03-05-2013, 01:27 PM
Are timing chain set ups interchangeable between s13 sr's and s14's?

AlexN
03-30-2013, 01:07 PM
helpful, thanks

Danger_Dorn
04-06-2013, 04:04 PM
Ok here new guys I made a video of how to do perfect timing on my SR. Please pay close attention to everything :bigok:

SR20DET Won't Start. (Timing and Spark shown) - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B68diptqOH4)

PS: My car not starting is irrelevant as its a different issue. :picardfp:

safari
04-17-2013, 06:03 PM
is the 95 sr20det with vtc a 4 cylinder?

ultimateirving
04-17-2013, 06:15 PM
is the 95 sr20det with vtc a 4 cylinder?

Thats debateable, it has 16 valves.

oni jake
05-13-2013, 01:40 PM
I have a S15 SR in a S14 chassis and redid my entire harness from scratch. This could be useful for anyone wanting to do the same.


https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/582215_593645543996254_551234716_n.jpg

tengo240
06-03-2013, 06:08 AM
Recently did some work to my sr and upon starting it it idled like complete shit , it was rocking back and forth and pouring black smoke out of the exhaust. i recently did the following to the motor/car what should i do if tomorrow when i put it back together its still off? i did the following

1.moved my fuse boxes/chassis harness to behind my dash board ,did not cut or remove anything just relocated it .
2. installed a chasebays wiring harness
3.removed my heater core and looped my coolant line in the back with all new hoses
4. removed my bov and hot pipe for a solid no bov hot pipe ,ran a vacuum line from the wastegate to the hot pipe,vac line from fpr t'd to boost gauge to the mani , capped the other throttle body fittings,
5.i removed my intake manifold but put on a new collector gasket and a circuit sports thermal gasket spacer. what did i miss or did i run vacuum lines wrong? i checked for boost leaks by spraying carb cleaner and didnt get anything,the motor flodded while running for the few moments i had it running , i replaced my plugs and changed the oil.
the engine ran awesome a few months ago before i changed the previous things , im leaning towards the wiring, any ideas ? i would greatly appreciate some insight and help
it acts like maybe the maf is being grounded out? i heard a few people got bad harnesses this year from chasebays . idk

Sthirteen90
06-03-2013, 06:14 AM
I'd say make sure you didn't plug any of the breather lines. Like the one off the intake. And if there's a problem in the harness, that's not super easy to check without taking apart the harness.

powermymotor
07-12-2013, 03:24 AM
wanted to change pistons .. if i didnt bore it out what size can i upgrade to? or do i keep it standard at 86mm

89hatchman
09-03-2013, 01:35 AM
Double checking. I can run 10-12 psi boost on stock injectors and tune correct?

I've heard people say that stock boost is 7 and others say its 12....Mine is currently running at 7

Mikester
09-03-2013, 06:43 AM
Double checking. I can run 10-12 psi boost on stock injectors and tune correct?

I've heard people say that stock boost is 7 and others say its 12....Mine is currently running at 7

Posted my answer to this in your other thread...

Stock boost seems to vary a bit on SR's (S13 red/black top), I think mostly due to variances in the age or type of the WG actuators.

You CAN run as much boost as you want- whether or not you SHOULD is the real question. At 10psi, you'll still be okay. At 12, you'd be amazed at how lean it will be. If your plan is to run 12psi on the factory setup, I recommend rethinking that & getting injectors and Enthalpy or JWT tune at minimum.

Don't get me wrong, I ran my SR at 14-16psi back in the day before I got smart & gave it the tright amount of fuel. Looking back, I feel very lucky I didn't blow the motor. People will tell you that running 12psi is 'safe' and that I am full of shit- but the numbers don't lie... If you're really concerned about it, put it on the dyno with a wideband attached and see.

89hatchman
09-03-2013, 10:35 AM
i just started up a front clip i got from phase2 from there. perfect 10. very clean and once i got the wiring issue done it started and was purring so nice. i would go with them any day all day.

How much did you pay? I like phase2 and all and I'm satisfied with my motor I suppose but it was pricey.

My SR has a timing chain rattle or something and runs a little lean at lower RPMs but so far its held up for 8 months or so of getting whooped.

shorty69187420
10-05-2013, 04:16 PM
so i have posted in a few different places but haven't gotten a response yet, hopefully this thread can help??

So i received my s14 sr20det about a week ago and was looking at everything and noticed that the ecu doesn't say WC on it... It says WB.

I looked up online and seen that:
WB = 94-96 silvia non turbo auto (SR20DE)
WC = 94-96 silvia turbo M/T (SR20DET)

Is this going to affect me in anyway?? I called the company that i bought it from and they said that the other*sr20det's that they have also have the WB ECU and not the WC.

Please advise

jaspreetkaur
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XEvrybodygets1
01-20-2014, 10:07 PM
Ok guy i know a few of you on here have had problems with the sr i have a sr20det i have no idea what the block numbe ris but right now the list of problems that i know are
- it wont start unless push started
- it dies when taken out of gear when running
-when the gas is to the floor tranny in gear doesnt matter which and clutch to the floor thats the only time it stays running.
- none of the gauges work

i bought the car a month ago with a promise to have it running it is not running now i will post later the block number. i hope you guys can figure it out.

jr_ss
01-24-2014, 06:21 PM
10 lbs is stock, not 7lbs. and 205 stock rating is not at the wheels..

Without the factory boost control solenoid, 7psi is stock. Therefore, since most people do not run the factory boost control solenoid, he is correct.

Double checking. I can run 10-12 psi boost on stock injectors and tune correct?

I've heard people say that stock boost is 7 and others say its 12....Mine is currently running at 7

Read above. The other part of your answer varies. What engine setup? S13 SR w/T25 can get away with slightly more boost than say an S14 SR w/T28. Regardless, I wouldn't push the S13 past 11-12psi without injectors and a tune. S14 no more than 10psi.

Posted my answer to this in your other thread...

Stock boost seems to vary a bit on SR's (S13 red/black top), I think mostly due to variances in the age or type of the WG actuators.

You CAN run as much boost as you want- whether or not you SHOULD is the real question. At 10psi, you'll still be okay. At 12, you'd be amazed at how lean it will be. If your plan is to run 12psi on the factory setup, I recommend rethinking that & getting injectors and Enthalpy or JWT tune at minimum.

Don't get me wrong, I ran my SR at 14-16psi back in the day before I got smart & gave it the tright amount of fuel. Looking back, I feel very lucky I didn't blow the motor. People will tell you that running 12psi is 'safe' and that I am full of shit- but the numbers don't lie... If you're really concerned about it, put it on the dyno with a wideband attached and see.

Mike, with the factory boost solenoid most SR's run 10psi, with boost tapering off in the higher rpms. Without the factory boost solenoid, wastegate pressure is set at 7psi. Since most people delete or do not receive the factory boost solenoid, they run 7.

Shopety2012
02-12-2014, 12:30 PM
Not sure to make a thread following my build because I'm sure I will be asking questions frequently, but I'm building an sr20det, check. I have a s13 red top head and s14 black top block. Now from my RESEARCH I see that it's best if I weld over the vvt oil port in the block, get it decked, then the head should work fine with the block. Can anyone confirm the conclusion I have drawn?


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schoja
03-01-2014, 12:30 AM
What would be the best turbo to upgrade the stock t25 turbo on an s13 redtop? Should I just go with a t28? If so what else should I look into for maximum reliability? I'm not going to lie, I don't know nearly as much as I would like to. If someone could shoot me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated!

soundboy
03-01-2014, 12:19 PM
first do a general service (oils, thermo, plugs), make sure you engine running properly and then upgrade.
a t28 from a s15 is a really nice upgrade.550CC injectors, z32 maf, a walbro fuel pump and some sort of aftermarket tuning is a nice base to start modding and then you can upgrade each parts to suit.

starboarder2004
03-04-2014, 09:22 PM
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ShowBoobs
03-10-2014, 02:06 PM
what is the torque spec for putting the valve cover back on? and is there a certain pattern of torqueing the bolts to properly seat the gasket?

ultimateirving
03-10-2014, 03:19 PM
what is the torque spec for putting the valve cover back on? and is there a certain pattern of torqueing the bolts to properly seat the gasket?

Valve cover shouldn't take much thought you can torque if you want but mine has never leaked and I've never torqued it

TheRealSy90
03-10-2014, 04:34 PM
what is the torque spec for putting the valve cover back on? and is there a certain pattern of torqueing the bolts to properly seat the gasket?

90 INCH pounds. After all the washers and nuts are hand tight do the center bolts and make up a criss cross pattern, if you have the oem washers they will align the cover.

vJilly
03-11-2014, 09:49 AM
Bought a 91 s13 with s13 blacktop swap. No A/C. I want to put in A/C and I've never done anything with A/C.. HELP!


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smoove
03-14-2014, 09:24 PM
Is there a workshop or service manual for redtop? I have seen nothing but the s14 sr which show to be the notch top. Would these torque specs and valve specs be the same? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for time.

starboarder2004
03-20-2014, 12:36 AM
GO to the attached link and download the conversion info.*https://www.dropbox.com/s/fdntze8utkz3pmw/SR20DET24_1.doc

*

~Pyng Thai

Tech Support

24-1 trigger wheel ems v1

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ultimateirving
03-20-2014, 07:43 AM
Bought a 91 s13 with s13 blacktop swap. No A/C. I want to put in A/C and I've never done anything with A/C.. HELP!


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Search! I put my a/c together and it's not hard. Cody ace can make you a bracket

SoCalDrifter
03-26-2014, 12:39 PM
Does anyone know if you can run Tomei solid lifters with tomei lash type 260 cams?

Future240
03-26-2014, 01:38 PM
Bought a 91 s13 with s13 blacktop swap. No A/C. I want to put in A/C and I've never done anything with A/C.. HELP!


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http://www.sr20acbrackets.com/

240kaspar
03-31-2014, 02:26 PM
I am looking at buying an sr20 240. I was curious what the stock bottom ends are good for power wise. I've read 400whp just wanted to see what members here thought. I'm new to the a chasis world coming from ls cars and an evo.

shawn1331
05-16-2014, 12:24 AM
just wondering what the max i can expec out of my red top. running basically 100% stock meaning:
T25
SMIC
OEM shrouds etc.

I have a tubular manifold and elbow to throw on and looking into a downpie. planning on boosting to 12psi, what whp can i expect?

Should i go with a mines tuned ecu/jwt?

LoSt180
05-28-2014, 08:40 AM
Some gee-wiz info about the S14 SR20DET:

Gear ratios are different than what I've seen posted -
1 - 3.321
2 - 1.902
3 - 1.308
4 - 1.000
5 - 0.838
R - 3.382
FD - 3.692 (US 240s are 4.083)


All S14s came with a boost sensor, but apparently only the Zenki has this connected to the ECU. The boost sensor on the Kouki SR is there only for the optional DIN boost gauge, at least that's what I can figure from studying wiring diagrams for the past two days.

As of mid-2014, most of the images and install guides in this thread are dead links.

Since I have a Kouki S14 SR20DET, finding a wiring guide is problematic. The ECU connector for the Kouki S14 is physically the same as S13 and S15 ECUs. The pinout is not the same as the S15 as many posts seem to suggest (it's close though). Pins 1 thru 48 of Kouki S14 and S15 are about the same, pins 101-116 are different though. I'm attaching an S14a pinout that I found. It says "not JDM" but the only difference is JDM doesn't come with NATS or EGR.


Wiring pinouts: http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/sr20de-det/118010-ecu-pinouts.html

LoSt180
05-30-2014, 09:15 AM
S14a (Kouki) FSM supplement: http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/vez/manual/s14a-manual_2.pdf

Complete S14 FSM that incorporates S14a changes, and is simply easier to navigate than the Zenki FSM available in nicoclub: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?475660-S14-amp-S14a-Workshop-Manual-v1-1


For the archives: PM me if these links break and I will rehost both documents.

Edit: Both manuals are now being hosted over at NICOclub. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-240sx-factory-service-manuals.html

vJilly
06-07-2014, 09:59 PM
bought a coupe with an s14 sr20det swap. car has the HUD Dash but I have a dual cam cluster. what would I need to make the HUD display work? car used to be an automatic car with working HUD if that helps in any way.


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.db.
06-09-2014, 11:35 AM
I recently decided to reseal and paint my valve cover while the car was down waiting for a front mount. Only to find out afterwards the valve cover grommets dont come as a set. A few of the sites I came across list the grommets at $3-4 a piece. Needing 13 of them, that puts you at 40-50 bucks plus the gaskets. I found a part number from Beck Arnley that is a 4 pack.

Valve Cover Grommet Set (SR20DET) 4 Pieces Included (4 packs required with 3 grommets extra)
Beck Arnley
039-6430
Oreilly Auto Parts - $3.69 EA usually takes a day or two to order

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BA00/0396430/02311.oap?year=1991&make=Nissan&model=Sentra&vi=1212804&ck=Search_valve+cover+grommet+gasket_1212804_2593&keyword=valve+cover+grommet+gasket

240Kid415
08-03-2014, 02:15 PM
Need help bad Bay Area just swapped my sr into a new shell ran fine drove it to the alignment shop oil started spilling bolt came off did complete oil change drove it 1 mile to another shop heater core line snapped off the little shit allllll the way in the back bitch to do now car starts idles rough motor shakes car acts like it wants to die I hardly have any throttle response. Any ideas any people the are close that can help me out have cash just need this thing back on the road since this is my only transportation to work .

jkrlox
08-18-2014, 06:18 PM
I am rebuilding my JDM SR20DET (s14) from 1997 and my repair shop has told me to buy the connecting rod bushings.

The part number for my engine is 12030-79E01

but I can't find it anywhere to buy it

My question is, the bushings from the USDM SR20 are compatible?

The part number for the USDM SR20 is 12030-60J02

Lucas_r3is
08-18-2014, 07:23 PM
Can anyone tell me where I can find a tune to download sr20det red top t3t4...

ultimateirving
08-18-2014, 08:11 PM
Can anyone tell me where I can find a tune to download sr20det red top t3t4...

Probably not because there is no such thing as a tune that you can just download.

What Ecu?
And what other mods have to be taken into consideration for a tune. You might be able to download a factory tune for a stock vehicle and then modify the tune to fit your add ons.

sweetsilvia101
09-20-2014, 08:10 PM
I am sorry for posting, it just burns me, well there are 2 filters Nissan uses in the us, on every car, don't ask me how I know this, but there are only two, maybe a 65foo and a 55yo,?

casual man mann
11-22-2014, 09:46 PM
Any idea where I can get the part number for the two front head bolts? Buddy's builder neglected to include them

caglej
11-22-2014, 10:14 PM
Not sure to make a thread following my build because I'm sure I will be asking questions frequently, but I'm building an sr20det, check. I have a s13 red top head and s14 black top block. Now from my RESEARCH I see that it's best if I weld over the vvt oil port in the block, get it decked, then the head should work fine with the block. Can anyone confirm the conclusion I have drawn?


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Does anybody have any info on this?

jbjslambert
11-23-2014, 08:56 AM
Not sure to make a thread following my build because I'm sure I will be asking questions frequently, but I'm building an sr20det, check. I have a s13 red top head and s14 black top block. Now from my RESEARCH I see that it's best if I weld over the vvt oil port in the block, get it decked, then the head should work fine with the block. Can anyone confirm the conclusion I have drawn?


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Will work fine. Plug it dont weld it. When you deck the block, make sure you mill the front cover also(oil pump). If not you will have a ledge there when you go to put it all back together

caglej
11-23-2014, 02:02 PM
Will work fine. Plug it dont weld it. When you deck the block, make sure you mill the front cover also(oil pump). If not you will have a ledge there when you go to put it all back together

What are you plugging it with?

Confuzedd
01-06-2015, 03:22 PM
Does anyone know if an AC compressor from a 1992 SR20DE will fit a s15 sr20de ?

S13_K3VIN
01-12-2015, 07:37 PM
hello my name is kevin. i got a 1990 240sx hatch with a sr20det swap. would the engine start without the cam angle sensor cap?

jbjslambert
01-12-2015, 09:00 PM
hello my name is kevin. i got a 1990 240sx hatch with a sr20det swap. would the engine start without the cam angle sensor cap?

it will start without the cap. The CAS is a trigger wheel for ignition timing. Good to keep things clean in there.

mdilworth114
03-02-2015, 09:59 PM
Just swapped my s13 from a KA24DE to an SR20DET. I was wondering about exhaust systems. Can I use my KA down pipe and straight pipe?

ExplicitTuning
03-30-2015, 01:09 PM
Just something worth adding to save a headache to whoever reads this. REMOVE the stock turbo t25 oil and water HARD lines that nissan uses stock they are so easy to strip your block with. I highly recommend going with something flexible.

hunterw
04-02-2015, 07:28 PM
it may have been asked multiple times, ut i cant get the search function to work correctly..
my question is, will a 1 piece sr20det s13 intake manifold work on a sr20det s14 engine?

wiring specialties
04-10-2015, 01:53 PM
http://ep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-95312210440221/wiring-specialties-pro-s13-sr20det-to-s14-240sx-harness-combo-tucked-242.gif

Let us know if you need any help, we have direct plug and play harnesses for all SR20 motors.

S13 SR20 Engine (http://www.wiringspecialties.com/s13sr20det.html)

S14 SR20 Engine (http://www.wiringspecialties.com/s14sr20det.html)

S15 SR20 Engine (http://www.wiringspecialties.com/s15sr20det.html)

Jibbberish
04-17-2015, 11:51 AM
So I'm thinking about buying a car but I'm a little skeptical about the engine build. It's an s13 blacktop sr20det, and all I know is the following:
-rebuilt with 10.5:1 pistons, unsure if it has new rods.
-Stock fuel system as far as I know except walbaro performance fuel pump.
-Stock cams/valvetrain
-t25 turbo with t28 internals
-stock ecu
-apexi AFC NEO to account for atmospheric BOV.
-Greddy Profec B-spec II boost controller.
-tial 50mm BOV

He says it runs 18-20lbs, but does a t28 even make power at those boost levels? Also, if it has 10.5:1 compression ratio, is it even possible to be running on pump gas with this setup? Shouldn't it be knocking like crazy? In theory, will an sr even run properly with this setup without a standalone? I'm basically just trying to figure out if he's just BSing me about the pistons cause people who buy 240's usually eat that shit up. I kinda hope he is BSing me.

I test drove the car and it ran/drove amazing. Easily the best one I've ever driven. Stupidly, I didn't look down at the boost gauge to see what it was actually pushing so idk if it was on low boost at around 14 or high at around 20 when I drove it. The guy's owned the car since 2008 and has receipts for everything, including the swap. It was bone stock when he bought it and the parts list is legit. Everything was done at shops professionally except this recent rebuild which he said he did himself at school (he's in an engineering program at western). So kinda weird that he doesn't have receipts for the purchase of the rebuild parts, and doesn't seem to know what they are.

soundboy
04-17-2015, 05:45 PM
99% it's stock internals. The parts list seems to be limited. Especially the turbo. The turbo might even be a t25.stock

Jibbberish
04-17-2015, 06:11 PM
I really hope it is cause the car's immaculate and I don't want it to have a janky build. It has a lot more parts but those are the only ones that relate to the engine build unless you count full exhaust from the turbo back. I'm going up to see it again sometime this week. I just feel like if he rebuilt the engine himself he'd be able to rattle off every single detail without even thinking about it right?

I think I'm gonna pull a spark plug out and peek in to see if I can identify the piston, and do a compression test if he has a tester. Anybody know what compression test results would be consistent with 10.5:1 in an SR?

dizzariot
12-06-2015, 09:42 PM
Anyone else in here have an S14 SR in their S13? I'm taking a long period of leave in January to sort out some things. In the meantime, any suggestions with the problems I'm having would help to point me in the right direction. I've got two issues:

1.) When I'm cruising on the highway to work I'm close to 4000RPM @ ~64MPH. My mileage is off on my cluster but I know that my car has the correct speed sensor. The previous owner told me that he didn't mess with the final drive but I'm left wondering why my RPM is so high when I'm barely keeping up with the flow of traffic.

2.) Since I've owned the car (it's been over a year now) I've experienced issues with starting the car twice. There are no common denominators and I'm pretty stumped. I'll go somewhere to run errands, come back, and the car just won't turn over. It gets power and everything comes on but the starter won't even notice I'm trying to start the fucking thing. It happened to me again today before the gym. I made a stop nearby, was in and out in 15min, and when I came back out I got nothing. I was near the gym so I locked up and walked over. Worked out for a little over an hour and came back. Everything started up like normal.

I suppose I've been putting this shit off because I know I'm leaving for Japan soon and the car is just gonna sit. I realized I'd like to straighten it out before the car goes into deep-sleep.

Jibbberish
12-07-2015, 10:39 AM
Anyone else in here have an S14 SR in their S13? I'm taking a long period of leave in January to sort out some things. In the meantime, any suggestions with the problems I'm having would help to point me in the right direction. I've got two issues:

1.) When I'm cruising on the highway to work I'm close to 4000RPM @ ~64MPH. My mileage is off on my cluster but I know that my car has the correct speed sensor. The previous owner told me that he didn't mess with the final drive but I'm left wondering why my RPM is so high when I'm barely keeping up with the flow of traffic.

2.) Since I've owned the car (it's been over a year now) I've experienced issues with starting the car twice. There are no common denominators and I'm pretty stumped. I'll go somewhere to run errands, come back, and the car just won't turn over. It gets power and everything comes on but the starter won't even notice I'm trying to start the fucking thing. It happened to me again today before the gym. I made a stop nearby, was in and out in 15min, and when I came back out I got nothing. I was near the gym so I locked up and walked over. Worked out for a little over an hour and came back. Everything started up like normal.

I suppose I've been putting this shit off because I know I'm leaving for Japan soon and the car is just gonna sit. I realized I'd like to straighten it out before the car goes into deep-sleep.

1.) Smaller diameter wheel/tire combo?
2.) Check them grounds. Similar thing happened in my MR2 randomly so I sanded/cleaned up the grounds and it never happened again.