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cynxe
08-03-2015, 02:04 PM
just put in all new valves because of a recent timing jump. There was no damage to the head. The new valves are bent and seem to seat very well. I copper coated my headgasket for a super seal finish and torqued the head studs to 80ft/ibs. Now i have put it all together and it runs on 4 or 5 cylinders. I just changed plugs and watched each plug spark from each coil. I can hear the injectors fire when i spin the cas. The car runs different if i spray in starter fluid. When i go to start it itll fire then die, but if i give it some gas itll stay running and try to idle. And if i rev up it starts to sound like it runs on all 6. What could it be?

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Koukiii
08-03-2015, 02:21 PM
Do all the plugs look the same when taken out? Seems like you have spark but some cylinders may not be getting fuel.

Have you double checked your timing?

cynxe
08-03-2015, 02:22 PM
Do all the plugs look the same when taken out? Seems like you have spark but some cylinders may not be getting fuel.

Have you double checked your timing?
Some plugs were wetter than others. And timing marks all line up

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Kingtal0n
08-03-2015, 03:50 PM
whats your wideband say?

Sounds like a potential boost/vacuum leak
or something got misplaced during the install (hopefully not)

cynxe
08-03-2015, 03:52 PM
whats your wideband say?

Sounds like a potential boost/vacuum leak
or something got misplaced during the install (hopefully not)
Wideband isn't installed, boost is reading like 3psi vacuum though... And i made sure nothing was misplaced. I did it right

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Kingtal0n
08-03-2015, 08:41 PM
boost is reading like 3psi vacuum though... And i made sure nothing was misplaced. I did it right



no wideband? hmm

What does that mean, 3psi vacuum. Vacuum is usually measured in inches of Hg not psi. and 3psi of anything at idle does not sound right.

dbeiler
08-04-2015, 07:49 PM
ALWAYS perform a compression test after rebuilding an engine. Did you even check the head for warpage before installing it?

The general flowchart for diagnosing a poorly running engine is as follows:
Perform a vacuum test and a cylinder balance test.
A low and bouncy vacuum reading is an indication of an internal/mechanical engine problem. This will require a compression test and possibly also a leakdown test to further diagnose the problem.
A low and steady vacuum reading is an indication of a fuel or ignition problem.

The cylinder balance test will indicate the problem cylinder/s.

A low vacuum reading and no change noted during cylinder balance test is often an indication of a timing issue.

cynxe
08-04-2015, 07:53 PM
ALWAYS perform a compression test after rebuilding an engine. Did you even check the head for warpage before installing it?

The general flowchart for diagnosing a poorly running engine is as follows:
Perform a vacuum test and a cylinder balance test.
A low and bouncy vacuum reading is an indication of an internal/mechanical engine problem. This will require a compression test and possibly also a leakdown test to further diagnose the problem.
A low and steady vacuum reading is an indication of a fuel or ignition problem.

The cylinder balance test will indicate the problem cylinder/s.

A low vacuum reading and no change noted during cylinder balance test is often an indication of a timing issue.
Yes i checked. 145psi compression on all. It's pulling like 3psi when i start it, then if i rev up, it idles at 2k and pulls 14-15psi

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Kingtal0n
08-04-2015, 08:01 PM
do a boost leak test to find vacuum leaks if the idle is insanely high

cynxe
08-04-2015, 08:03 PM
do a boost leak test to find vacuum leaks if the idle is insanely high
How do i check for boost leak?

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Kingtal0n
08-04-2015, 08:33 PM
google diy boost leak tester

basically home depot pvc end cap, with a tire valve stem that you can install into it, and use an air compressor to fill the plumbing with 15-20psi of pressure to find the leaks

you can use JB weld to hold the valve stem into the end cap, although this is not always necessary and there are other ways to secure it.

cynxe
08-04-2015, 08:34 PM
google diy boost leak tester

basically home depot pvc end cap, with a tire valve stem that you can install into it, and use an air compressor to fill the plumbing with 15-20psi of pressure to find the leaks
Could an exhaust leak before the turbo cause my car to pull alot less vacuum?

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Kingtal0n
08-04-2015, 10:16 PM
engine vacuum is produced at the intake valve by a descending piston. the vacuum is applied to the intake port, up through the head, and into the intake manifold. the only thing stopping an engine from revving out and exploding at maximum RPM is the throttle body plate (aka throttle valve) which limits the airflow by simply presenting a restriction. This is what creates the vacuum signal. If you open the throttle body (or removed it) there would be no vacuum since atmospheric pressure would enter the intake manifold and the suction applied at the intake valve by the descending piston would be satisfied with the movement of atmospheric molecules.

A vacuum leak is just air bypassing the throttle body, and this will increase engine RPM. An enormous vacuum leak as large as the throttle body (if you removed the throttle plate and started the engine) would allow the engine rev out and explode magnificently as I mentioned above (assuming no limitation to RPM by the computer)

cynxe
08-04-2015, 10:37 PM
engine vacuum is produced at the intake valve by a descending piston. the vacuum is applied to the intake port, up through the head, and into the intake manifold. the only thing stopping an engine from revving out and exploding at maximum RPM is the throttle body plate (aka throttle valve) which limits the airflow by simply presenting a restriction. This is what creates the vacuum signal. If you open the throttle body (or removed it) there would be no vacuum since atmospheric pressure would enter the intake manifold and the suction applied at the intake valve by the descending piston would be satisfied with the movement of atmospheric molecules.

A vacuum leak is just air bypassing the throttle body, and this will increase engine RPM. An enormous vacuum leak as large as the throttle body (if you removed the throttle plate and started the engine) would allow the engine rev out and explode magnificently as I mentioned above (assuming no limitation to RPM by the computer)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDniy2r9sWU
this is what i got earlier

Kingtal0n
08-05-2015, 06:48 AM
what size cams?

you need a wideband, a boost leak test, a compression test, and I need more info on the ECU/injectors/maf/air filter

and a picture of the engine bay, especially how the maf is routed,

and last how the engine was running before you had the timing slip (did it fire on the first try? did it start and idle like stock before? Are those stock cams? Is the tach in the car wrong?)

cynxe
08-05-2015, 07:24 AM
what size cams?

you need a wideband, a boost leak test, a compression test, and I need more info on the ECU/injectors/maf/air filter

and a picture of the engine bay, especially how the maf is routed,

and last how the engine was running before you had the timing slip (did it fire on the first try? did it start and idle like stock before? Are those stock cams? Is the tach in the car wrong?)
Completely stock, besides arp headstuds and hks bov. There's another video on my channel called rb25 turbo flutter, thats how the engine ran before the accident, yes it fired on first try and ran amazing. I did a compression test, and read 145psi accross the board on dry cylinders, my wideband isnt hooked up yet, maf is stock too. At the moment, i have an exhaust leak that i can hear, sounds like its smacking the firewall, and i dont have the radiator in, also the pcv pipe that goes back into the intake pipe off the before the turbo isnt hooked up, so theres a small hole of unmetered air . The engine was put into my s13 and its with a specialties harness, so im going to assume the tac is off. Because when it makes an attempt to start, the tac jumps to 1k. Picture below is how my bay was before the accident but is basically what it looks like now.

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Kingtal0n
08-05-2015, 11:10 AM
It is running rough but it sounds like the ignition is good. If compression is good, that only leaves fuel, and if your ecu/injectors/maf is stock, then that points to a a vacuum leak/maf issue.

Oh and I see you have no air filter. that is what we call a maf issue. No filter = maf issue. Unmetered air = maf issue. boost leak = maf issue. vacuum leak = maf issue. Just fix those things and it should be fine.

cynxe
08-05-2015, 12:47 PM
It is running rough but it sounds like the ignition is good. If compression is good, that only leaves fuel, and if your ecu/injectors/maf is stock, then that points to a a vacuum leak/maf issue.

Oh and I see you have no air filter. that is what we call a maf issue. No filter = maf issue. Unmetered air = maf issue. boost leak = maf issue. vacuum leak = maf issue. Just fix those things and it should be fine.
So does an exhaust leak count?

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Kingtal0n
08-05-2015, 12:59 PM
no. but the exhaust gasses create movement, just like fans do, and spinning parts, that move air molecules around- and since you have no air filter the maf wire cannot tell the difference between air moving into the engine from engine pressure drop vs air moving around because of fans and moving parts.

cynxe
08-05-2015, 01:04 PM
no. but the exhaust gasses create movement, just like fans do, and spinning parts, that move air molecules around- and since you have no air filter the maf wire cannot tell the difference between air moving into the engine from engine pressure drop vs air moving around because of fans and moving parts.
Before the accident i never had an air filter, and it ran great. It has a problem trying to stay at a good idle.

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Kingtal0n
08-05-2015, 01:06 PM
stop browsing the forums and start fixing your maf issues

if it isnt a maf issue it is timing related, or wiring related, or computer related. so pray it is a maf issue.

And never run an engine without an air filter. Dear lord what a mess. You think that outside air is clean? Nowhere in the world.

cynxe
08-05-2015, 01:08 PM
stop browsing the forums and start fixing your maf issues

if it isnt a maf issue it is timing related, or wiring related, or computer related. so pray it is a maf issue.

And never run an engine without an air filter. Dear lord.
Working on it

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cynxe
08-05-2015, 09:16 PM
stop browsing the forums and start fixing your maf issues

if it isnt a maf issue it is timing related, or wiring related, or computer related. so pray it is a maf issue.

And never run an engine without an air filter. Dear lord what a mess. You think that outside air is clean? Nowhere in the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuNaKJnSp7g
Different video, maybe you can diagnose it from this point of view

Kingtal0n
08-05-2015, 11:47 PM
seems like it runs pretty good to me. get an air filter on it, do a boost leak test, do these things we already discussed then drive it.

cynxe
08-06-2015, 06:12 AM
seems like it runs pretty good to me. get an air filter on it, do a boost leak test, do these things we already discussed then drive it.
I dont see how that possibly sounds normal

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cynxe
08-06-2015, 10:09 PM
stop browsing the forums and start fixing your maf issues

if it isnt a maf issue it is timing related, or wiring related, or computer related. so pray it is a maf issue.

And never run an engine without an air filter. Dear lord what a mess. You think that outside air is clean? Nowhere in the world.

I ran smoke throught the intake and theres a huge leak on the bottom manifold at the far left stud. I removed the manifold, added gasket maker and it still didnt work. It just keeps leaking. I dont even know how to fix this issue, because gasket maker didnt even seal it up.