Clicking / Ticking Noise.. Possibly arching from plugs?

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Hey guys,

I hear this weird ticking noise when my car idles, it clicks quicker when rpms increase but only so a certain point... like 2500.

I googled a crap load and thought maybe it was arching from my plugs. I took all the plugs out and cleaned them, checked them for proper gapping and secured everything back down. It still seems to click. I have even messed with my TPS thinking it was something to do with that.

I am running NGK BRK7E gapped at .028

Is this normal? Any suggestions?

[Ilya]

That's typical for a car with vtec.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

I have an sr20. Is that typical then too?

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[Beijing_Raccoon]

^Yep.
You didn't even list what car or engine, so the best that can be assumed is something with vtec.

[Ilya]

Can you write out the pattern in which it ticks? I'll look it up in my Nissan manual once I know the pattern.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Can you write out the pattern in which it ticks? I'll look it up in my Nissan manual once I know the pattern.
O I don't think I could figure that out. It happens too fast and you can't really pin point exactly where it's coming from.. like which coil pack, etc.

Is it possible that it could be coming from one of the cylinders. Would it be dumb to try and disconnect 1 coil pack at a time to see if it stop the noise or would that cause more problems?

I can try and upload a video when I get a chance

Thanks.

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[Ilya]

No no no no I need the pattern spelled out. If you post a video then I would have to inerpret the numbers clicking instead of you, and only the true owner can recognize the pattern.

You can try to disconnect the coil packs but you can never disconnect the coilpack in a consecutive direction: example of what I mean. Disconnect cool pack, reconnect coilpack, disconnect coilpack to the right of first coilpack I disconnected, now I can not disconnect a coil pack to the right of the second coilpack because that ruins the pattern so you have to disconnect to the left.

[burnsauto]

http://76.my/Malaysia/mechanics-stethoscope-lt-a1029-technotools-1306-05-technotools@3.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html


Done.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Looks expensive LOL

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[2plus4plus0eq6]

Looks expensive LOL

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I just clicked the link... my bad... 4 bucks hah

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[2plus4plus0eq6]

No no no no I need the pattern spelled out. If you post a video then I would have to inerpret the numbers clicking instead of you, and only the true owner can recognize the pattern.

You can try to disconnect the coil packs but you can never disconnect the coilpack in a consecutive direction: example of what I mean. Disconnect cool pack, reconnect coilpack, disconnect coilpack to the right of first coilpack I disconnected, now I can not disconnect a coil pack to the right of the second coilpack because that ruins the pattern so you have to disconnect to the left.
Sorry for my Noobness but how would I go about getting this pattern?

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[cameronfaley]

On a different story excluding spark plugs or coils... A possible clicking/ticking noise could be a lifter tick. But this early on i wouldn't specifically pinpoint that as your problem.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

On a different story excluding spark plugs or coils... A possible clicking/ticking noise could be a lifter tick. But this early on i wouldn't specifically pinpoint that as your problem.
Thanks. I'll do some research on that and keep it in back of my mind

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[cameronfaley]

Yeah no problem! Good luck to you!

[jr_ss]

What motor is this again? S14 VTC? It's your VTC cam gear. You need to replace it.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

What motor is this again? S14 VTC? It's your VTC cam gear. You need to replace it.
Ya it's a zenki s14 sr20. You've had this problem before? Can't be fixed, just replace the cam gear?

EDIT: I just watch some youtube videos, and the noise I am getting is no where near as loud as the ones in these videos. Its not a rattle. It literally sounds like a small arching noise.

Does not sound like the VCT rattle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHfdF0aLUrw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95qdoK44zQg

[burnsauto]

hmm...possibly a collapsed lifter? They can range in loudness depending on how much fluid is left in the lifter.

[jr_ss]

Can you take audio of the ticking? It may just be your injectors...

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Here is a video I took of it. I increased the rpm probably no higher than 1500. You can really hear the noise at the end.

Let me know if the link doesn't work - Video (https://www.dropbox.com/s/vlmlplsilv487fu/2015-07-21%2015.04.55.mp4?dl=0)

[chancelton]

That's a weird tick....doesn't sound like injectors or like it's in the motor either. Good luck with that

[jr_ss]

That's a weird tick....doesn't sound like injectors or like it's in the motor either. Good luck with that

Great helpful post. Keep posting uselessly to get that post count up, idiot.

It's hard to say what exactly it is. I would say it's more of a faint tapping sound than a tick/click. If you want something to do, check your valve train. Make sure your lifters are bled and the shims are within spec. A bearing on the front of the motor might be going bad(I.e. Water pump, tensioner). There are a lot of things this could be. Replace your plugs, if they have a brown trace mark on the ceramic, they are bad.

I honestly don't think it's anything to cause alarm or worry. These motors seem to have a lot of random noises.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Great helpful post. Keep posting uselessly to get that post count up, idiot.

It's hard to say what exactly it is. I would say it's more of a faint tapping sound than a tick/click. If you want something to do, check your valve train. Make sure your lifters are bled and the shims are within spec. A bearing on the front of the motor might be going bad(I.e. Water pump, tensioner). There are a lot of things this could be. Replace your plugs, if they have a brown trace mark on the ceramic, they are bad.

I honestly don't think it's anything to cause alarm or worry. These motors seem to have a lot of random noises.

Ya thanks for your help. The car seems to drive fine. I do have a new water pump that I could throw on. I'll mess around with it. At first I was really concerned, but now I am over it lol

[chancelton]

Great helpful post. Keep posting uselessly to get that post count up, idiot.

actually, it was helpful as I stated that I did not believe it to be in the engine or an injector. process of elimination. i dont give a fuck what my post count is, you on the other hand are the "post whore" fucking troll

[burnsauto]

I'd get a stethoscope and at least look into it. Sometimes you can catch a little problem before it develops into a big one with a tool like that.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

I'd get a stethoscope and at least look into it. Sometimes you can catch a little problem before it develops into a big one with a tool like that.

Thats a good point. I will try and pick one up. thanks

[jr_ss]

actually, it was helpful as I stated that I did not believe it to be in the engine or an injector. process of elimination. i dont give a fuck what my post count is, you on the other hand are the "post whore" fucking troll

Wow, another educated response, you're on a roll pal.

[burnsauto]

Wow, another educated response, you're on a roll pal.

If you don't have anything nice to say :hug:

[jr_ss]

If you don't have anything nice to say :hug:

Yeah, yeah...

Try unplugging your VTC solenoid, it's the red plug right next to the throttle body coming out of the head.

[kruked]

i dont give a fuck what my post count is, you on the other hand are the "post whore" fucking troll


Lol. He's a "post whore" who joined at the end of 2005.

Lol, such a post whore, fucking troll!


Sorry, I'm just trolling.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Yeah, yeah...

Try unplugging your VTC solenoid, it's the red plug right next to the throttle body coming out of the head.
I'll give that a try and get back to you. I think I did that once while it was running and it just died... can't remember

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[jr_ss]

Lol. He's a "post whore" who joined at the end of 2005.

Lol, such a post whore, fucking troll!


Sorry, I'm just trolling.


Haha Jay, no worries. I'll continue being a post whore and helping people out.

I'll give that a try and get back to you. I think I did that once while it was running and it just died... can't remember

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It shouldn't have just died. That just controls the VTC oil flow. It activates just off idle and switches off at 5200rpms. I just wanted to see if it made a change to the noise.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Yeah, yeah...

Try unplugging your VTC solenoid, it's the red plug right next to the throttle body coming out of the head.

OK so I unplugged the VTC solenoid and started it up. It idled like shit just so you know. It was kinda loud. I didn't notice the clicking (maybe cause the idle was loud from other stuff). I plugged it back in and cranked it over. heard the noise again. So I guess its the solenoid.

I was doing a little research and found this (http://forums.nicoclub.com/s14-s15-sr20det-vvt-issue-t201985.html) thread. Just so you know, my neutral position switch is not hooked up. I don't see how this could relate to the vct?? so the clicking noise is the solenoid actuating/de-actuating really fast?

[kane01]

I'm really fond of my S14 but your car looks pretty sweet.Same color too. You should be able to narrow it down by finding which area its coming from. Sometimes youn can hear better underneath without fan and other noise. Has it always done it or just recently after changing or replacing something.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

I'm really fond of my S14 but your car looks pretty sweet.Same color too. You should be able to narrow it down by finding which area its coming from. Sometimes youn can hear better underneath without fan and other noise. Has it always done it or just recently after changing or replacing something.

Thanks man. I plan on doing a s15 front end conversion with widebody panels all around. I like the color but not fond of the front end.

As for the sound. Has it always done that? To be honest.. I am not sure. I only just recently noticed it. I have not had the car running for the longest time. Only since the end of last summer. Now I am trying to fix all of the bugs. I don't have a consult port, so I find it hard to find engine problems.

[kane01]

Lifters and rockers tap. Exhaust leak is usually a tick accompanied with soot and exhaust smell. Lower end is gonna be a knock, obviously louder and deeper than the top end noise. Injectors tick and so does your spark if it grounds out just right and the spark is stretched a little. Are there performance symptoms that will help us find waldo.

From your moms basement / using hacked rotary phone

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Lifters and rockers tap. Exhaust leak is usually a tick accompanied with soot and exhaust smell. Lower end is gonna be a knock, obviously louder and deeper than the top end noise. Injectors tick and so does your spark if it grounds out just right and the spark is stretched a little. Are there performance symptoms that will help us find waldo.

From your moms basement / using hacked rotary phone
I haven't noticed any performance problems other than some boost hesitation which can come from my controller and some backfire

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[2plus4plus0eq6]

UPDATE:

I had misdiagnosed my engine. I thought it was the VTC solenoid. It was actually the TPS. When I did a check on the TPS, I had noticed it was turned all the way clockwise. I checked the FSM and did a resistance test on it.

FSM states:

throttle released = 0.7 ohms
partial = 0.7 - 5 ohms
WOT = Approx 5 ohms

Mine was totally off. I got my throttle released now set to 0.7 ohms. which is perfect. I can't quite get my WOT to 5 ohms. I get approx 4.1 ohms. I know the FSM says approx.

I had an issue with backfiring and this has seemed to stop it. The car runs way better, quieter, smoother, more power. No more clicking/ticking noise.

BUT... on the downside, my car seems to die a lot more often when coming to a stop. I have a lightweight flywheel and drive shaft. Found what I have read, there is not enough inertia to stop the engine from stalling when coming down from revs. I am pretty sure I need to now try and increase my base idle. Because now after messing with my TPS, I have noticed my idle is a lot lower than it was... and it was low already before!!!

Pretty embarrassing I tell ya when driving around and stalling. Some hot tart on the sidewalk watching and laughing thinking I can't drive stick lol

My tach is not working at the moment due to have a sohc cluster with my sr20. Anyways I think I can raise idle with the IACV.

Any comments or questions are appreciated

EDIT: I was able to raise the idle. Not sure its set at, but I don't seem to stall at stops now. It still drops down a lot, but then bounces back enough to keep car alive. I am happy. I might raise idle a little bit more in near future. Not sure how much more screw can come out lol

[jr_ss]

Do you have a BOV that vents to atmosphere?

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Do you have a BOV that vents to atmosphere?
It's recirculating and vacuum is like -25. I build boost no problem to about 13 pounds which is what my controller is set at

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[jr_ss]

What is your base idle?

[2plus4plus0eq6]

What is your base idle?
I don't know. My tach isn't working. Sounds like it's around 1000

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[jr_ss]

Let's fix the tach next, then you can set base timing.

[2plus4plus0eq6]

Let's fix the tach next, then you can set base timing.

Totally agreed. Its the next thing on my list. Budget for the year is gone. Will have to wait til spring.

Quick question. Does increasing base idle make it difficult to set timing properly since revs are now higher? does there need to be a proper idle speed so timing can be set? I ask because I believe when engine revs go up, the engine will advance timing on its on. This may not be the case since I am not increasing the idle by much?

thanks

[kane01]

Trying to adjust timing to make up for idle changes or possible idle issues will be a bandaid on a stabb wound. Will probably cause some valvetrain issues at some point in the timing curve. Gonna go against my better judgement and guess that it will give you some valve noise or worse around 4000-4500 rpms. Not that familiar with the sr's but i did the same thing on my ka to make up for a wore out iacv and at about 2800-3000 i got valvetrain noise and a little loss of power. I would set base timing and try to get a nice smooth idle that you can just barely feather the clutch and get your car moving without giving any throttle at all. If that makes since to you. KA has a little more torque and it idles right at 940ish and i can do it but i dont like dragging my clutch out like that.