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View Full Version : New bolts or no?


kidslice
07-16-2015, 07:32 PM
Ok, so here we go. S1 RB25det is the power plant and just resurfaced the flywheel and got a new disc and pressure plate. I got my UTI graduate buddy sayin theres no need to replace the flywheel bolts or the pressure plate bolts. Then I read on forums that u DO need replace the flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts and mainly the flywheel bolts cuz they stretch after they go in. SOOOOOO what the hell is it guys lmao. I'm litterally 15 bolts away from the engine goin back in the car so I'm gettin reeeeal ansey in the garage. Got bolts on the way but if i dont need them I'll just drop it back in tonite.

ANDY black s13
07-16-2015, 08:49 PM
Fit new OE bolts imo at least, or upgrade to ARP,
I've read a few times re used fly wheel bolts breaking when being re torqued

kidslice
07-16-2015, 11:25 PM
ok, thanx. The bolts are to be tourqued at 110ft/lbs and that is enuff to make me feel better about using new ones from nissan.From what I got KA flywheel bolts are the same so thats whats on the way,plus fastenal didnt have the right head for the bolt and it had to be ordered. Have u ever read or heard about thread pitch stretching out at all on fly wheel bolts if they are re used? Just wanna put the myth to rest on true or false ya know.

ANDY black s13
07-17-2015, 06:14 AM
I've not read they stretch,only shearing off in the crank when re torqued
but seen some come loose, so possibly they had stretched?
but when I was working on Mercedes Commercial Buses/coaches we re-used
all the bolts,so it don't apply to all

kruked
07-17-2015, 07:54 PM
I've reused my bolts numerous times, on numerous chassis. I've never had a problem. I've always used thread lock, too.


Yes, for those that don't know, I am talking about the PP bolts, and the FW bolts.

Kingtal0n
07-17-2015, 09:49 PM
I've reused my bolts numerous times, on numerous chassis. I've never had a problem.
this^^

I always re-use my OEM bolts. I never use threadlocker on flywheel/pp bolts though. Also, never had a problem with them coming out. Just follow the FSM for torque procedure, and make sure everything is spotless, as clean as you can possibly get it.


I feel those folks with hardware problems are on aggressive setups that tend to jar and impact the drivetrain, like an unsprung disc will do. The FSM might not cover your ass when using non-OEM quality parts.

kruked
07-18-2015, 07:17 AM
I use the thread lock just for added precaution because the oem bolts are no telling how old. You don't have to make the bolt completely saturated, I just wrap it on a couple of threads for peace of mind.

FaLKoN240
07-18-2015, 11:31 AM
If you got it out, why skimp out on a few bucks only to end up doing it if/when they fail?