Sr heat problem, ripping my hair out.

[Asuka]

Ok, I've been trying to figure this out for a good 6 months, just throwing money at it let and right with no real results.
s13 black top with Nismo thermostat, brand new 1.1 MLS headgasket, Arp studs, big radiator, Maradyne jetstream fans with shroud, and water wetter.

When I start the car it takes the usual amount of time to start heatung up, but the oil temp hits 140F before the water temp moves at all. It'll start getting up and I usually kill it around 190F water and 230F oil temp. With the fans on full blast.

The outlet side(coolant coming out of the engine) is hot when it's up in temp, but JUST the hose and the top of the rad is hot.. If I squeeze the hose it feels like it's flowing, but no other part of the rad is hot.

I've bleed it for hours. Nothing. 3 different thermostats. Nothing. Cleaned the rad 3 times, different oils, different coolant/water/additives/, different filters, 3 different fan sets.

I'm loosing my mind here, does anyone have any idea what this nightmare could be?

[Dboyizmlg]

Maybe you need a new radiator cap.

[Asuka]

Tried 5. Blitz, Greddy, stock, Mishimoto, and one from autozone...

[5280VertDET]

Clog somewhere in the block?

[Asuka]

Just flushed it, no difference.

[rotation3x]

if the valve cover is hot and the top of the rad is cold you have air in the coolant system.

How exactly are you bleeding the system?

[bmitchell_ga]

Are you saying 190* is too hot for water temp?

[Kingtal0n]

Are you saying 190* is too hot for water temp?

this. Typically you want 190-205* on any random sr20det.

some will run as low as 175 or even lower. But that doesn't make it right, or even desirable.

Oh, and what do you mean fans on "full blast"? Sounds like you have electric fans. Which are part of your problem.

Install an OEM clutch fan with shroud and leave it alone.

[DJPimpFlex]

E fans are fine. Water pump? Do you trust the gauges themselves?

[Kingtal0n]

E fans are fine. Water pump? Do you trust the gauges themselves?

So let me ask, and I am not picking on you, but...

how do you know that his Electric fans are fine? Do you know the brand? do you know the voltage they are operating at? Do you know how many CFM they move? Or if they are installed 1" away from the radiator or more? Do you know if they are in front of the rad, or behind it? Do you know ANYTHING at ALL about the electric fans on this guys engine, besides the fact they are electric?


I can go on ebay and pick up a few $5 electric fans and put them on my car. And come here on this forum and say .. "fans are on full blast... why is my car overheating?"

IDK dude, E-fans are fine.

[Asuka]

Pulling vacuum on the system and having it draw in coolant. Some fancy suction bullshit to bleed it.
Regardless of water temp, the oil is still way to hot since it's thinning out and dropping pressure.
I trust the gauges, I put a temp gun on the sensors and it matched up.

[Asuka]

The fans are Maradyne jetstream MJS26k. 2600 CFM each, with proper voltage and everything, they're operating just fine. There tons of Sr's rolling around Dallas with the same fans and no problems.

[Kingtal0n]

oil needs to hit at least 220*F to evaporate the water that undoubtedly dissolves into it from the atmosphere. Thats one reason why "low mileage city cars" may require sooner oil changes and convincingly encounter more than average wear and tear.

[rotation3x]

Pulling vacuum on the system and having it draw in coolant. Some fancy suction bullshit to bleed it.
Regardless of water temp, the oil is still way to hot since it's thinning out and dropping pressure.
I trust the gauges, I put a temp gun on the sensors and it matched up.

Im pretty sure you have air in the system. I use the simple method.

I have heard guys having a hard time bleeding the system jack there car up or bleed it while its on a incline.

Bleed it with the bleeder screw on the coolant neck.

This is how I do it and it works first time every time

1. Fill radiator with coolant (leave cap off)

2. Start car and let it idle for about 5 minutes (keep an eye on gauge until it reaches normal temp)

3. Remove 10mm bleeder screw & copper washer

4. continue adding coolant with bleeder screw/ copper washer removed until you get steady coolant flowing out.

5. install 10mm bleeder screw Don't drop the copper washer and top off radiator with coolant.

6. install radiator cap

7. continue to monitor temp gauge The top of the radiator should be getting hot.