The Sr20/Sr22vet thread

[s13silvia123]

So I’ve decided to part ways with my vvl setup and focus on my ae86. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that helped with questions and put their 2 cents in when I needed help. Once I figure how to post pics up with my phone, a bunch of new parts will be up for sale. Thanks again fellas.

what do you have pm me?????????

[rbs14kouki]

Would you guys run a g25-550 ar.72 on a ve head ? Or go to its bigger brother g25-660

480whp on Adam lz basic built sr20det is realy impressive

Looking for 450 to 500whp .

We had a gtx3576 maxed out on a sr24vet from mazworx . I have no where close to an engin of that caliber but im scared to max the turbo before the end of my rpm range

P11 head (maybe port and polish but for sure a good valve job as im going Shimless valve ( +1mm ex. and +2mm in. only found mazworx that makes them)
P12 cams
Kelford beehive spring/retainer
Hypertune intake
Bosch 82mm throttle
86.5mm cp ve pistons
Manley rods
Stock crank
..... list goes on

[d9m13n]

Can anybody speak to whether a p11 fuel rail setup (eg. the radium engineering one) will fit a p12 lower intake runner? Most likely going to have my intake plenum built off the factory p12 lower runners and Im trying to figure out if there are any viable fuel rail solutions already out there as I cant find any p12 specific rails that suit my needs.

[RalliartRsX]

^^ No.

Just reuse the P12 fuel rail as ID injector are a direct fit

[d9m13n]

^^ No.

Just reuse the P12 fuel rail as ID injector are a direct fit



Don’t have the oem rail, just the runners unfortunately

[RalliartRsX]

P11 is side feed. P12 is top feed. The mount bolt pattern different last I checked

[PoorMans180SX]

Would you guys run a g25-550 ar.72 on a ve head ? Or go to its bigger brother g25-660

480whp on Adam lz basic built sr20det is realy impressive

Looking for 450 to 500whp .

We had a gtx3576 maxed out on a sr24vet from mazworx . I have no where close to an engin of that caliber but im scared to max the turbo before the end of my rpm range

P11 head (maybe port and polish but for sure a good valve job as im going Shimless valve ( +1mm ex. and +2mm in. only found mazworx that makes them)
P12 cams
Kelford beehive spring/retainer
Hypertune intake
Bosch 82mm throttle
86.5mm cp ve pistons
Manley rods
Stock crank
..... list goes on

Simple, if you want 450whp, the 550, if you want 500+whp, the 660 haha. I highly doubt either of those turbos are going to make their advertised figures unless they're on a methanol setup. You're going to make more power than Adam of course, but why push the turbo super hard? A minor boost leak and you're into overspeed. Adam's car looks like it drives like a V8, which is pretty cool. Really hoping I can drive a G25 car soon so I can compare it to the 7163 with the ol' butt dyno.

[jj205mi]

I am also building one of these engines, taking my time but nearly there. Inlet side still to get, wastegate and CAS to get and I should be fitting it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181202/236f545c60e558727fc2d14b55cd0134.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181202/04900d9e37ecf247e05b2f90660c747e.jpg


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[d9m13n]

Cool news for us p12 guys!

Finally found a bolt on ignition coil solution for the p12 head. Looks to be good quality from a reputable parts supplier utilizing the proven r35 gtr coilpacks. Custom length stalks, really clean wiring loom, pretty billet bracket. Claims to fit neatly underneath the coilpack cover as well.
Definitely not the cheapest solution, but it looks like the aussies have done it again with quality parts for the sr20vet platform.

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/product/p12-coil-kit-full/

https://i.imgur.com/DEsP6GHh.jpg

[Rb26kouki]

Cool news for us p12 guys!



Finally found a bolt on ignition coil solution for the p12 head. Looks to be good quality from a reputable parts supplier utilizing the proven r35 gtr coilpacks. Custom length stalks, really clean wiring loom, pretty billet bracket. Claims to fit neatly underneath the coilpack cover as well.

Definitely not the cheapest solution, but it looks like the aussies have done it again with quality parts for the sr20vet platform.



https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/product/p12-coil-kit-full/



https://i.imgur.com/DEsP6GHh.jpg



Taarks made this but their pricing is stupid high. And they won’t sell jus the bracket they will sell the kit with coils.

[d9m13n]

Totally forgot taarks had one for the p12, but looks like they ended production for it or it’s out of stock for the time being. Taarks price is a bit easier to stomach than the PRP setup

[RalliartRsX]

1) I am not sure PRP delivers outside of AUS
2) You can buy the kit without the coilpacks and buy Hitachi coilpacks from Rockauto for a little under 60 a pop (Nissan is rebranded Hitachi)

[RalliartRsX]

Anyone interested in a BNIB P12 VC and coilpacks for a drop in ready to go setup??

$300 for both + shipping. Let me know. Also willing to trade for a P11 cover for 250 + shipping and P11 cover.

Thanks

[s13silvia123]

1) I am not sure PRP delivers outside of AUS
2) You can buy the kit without the coilpacks and buy Hitachi coilpacks from Rockauto for a little under 60 a pop (Nissan is rebranded Hitachi)

Yeah i looked at this alternative awhile a little way too much. Looks nice but i believe it's cheaper if i 3D print them make them work with what i have.

[d9m13n]

Anybody know of any reputable sr20vet engine builders in the northeast US? Was going to get it built by JP (240sxk on here) who runs an engine building business out of CT but it doesn't seem like he or his business partner has any interest in taking my money all of a sudden... Hopefully someone in here can steer me in the right direction, I know theres not many vet setups up here but I need my engine assembled and the machine work done sooner rather than later. Thanks!

[Rb26kouki]

Anybody know of any reputable sr20vet engine builders in the northeast US? Was going to get it built by JP (240sxk on here) who runs an engine building business out of CT but it doesn't seem like he or his business partner has any interest in taking my money all of a sudden... Hopefully someone in here can steer me in the right direction, I know theres not many vet setups up here but I need my engine assembled and the machine work done sooner rather than later. Thanks!



Funny you say that, I contacted him to build my head and never got an answer just gonna have to cough up the cash and send my head to mazworx

[d9m13n]

Funny you say that, I contacted him to build my head and never got an answer just gonna have to cough up the cash and send my head to mazworx

Need my bottom end assembled and hopefully blueprinted as well as all the conversion stuff done. Really hoping I dont have to pay to get everything shipped around to a company like Mazworx but if I have to..

If anyone can get me in reliable contact with JP so I can actually speak with him and see whats going on that would be appreciated. His business IG leaves my dm's on read and his personal IG is unresponsive.

[RalliartRsX]

Try hitting him up through Jimmy Oates or Tommy. They seem to hang out a fair bit.

That or contact Jamie Marsh.

[Rb26kouki]

Need my bottom end assembled and hopefully blueprinted as well as all the conversion stuff done. Really hoping I dont have to pay to get everything shipped around to a company like Mazworx but if I have to..



If anyone can get me in reliable contact with JP so I can actually speak with him and see whats going on that would be appreciated. His business IG leaves my dm's on read and his personal IG is unresponsive.



lol same here

[e30gangsta]

He is selling his vet setup, I believe he wants 13k.

[d9m13n]

He is selling his vet setup, I believe he wants 13k.



Last I saw it was 15k. I already have every part I need, just want someone who knows what they’re doing to assemble it and do the minor necessary machine work

[RalliartRsX]

He wants 15k

[e30gangsta]

He wants 15k

Says 13 on his ig but ok.

[s13silvia123]

Says 13 on his ig but ok.

Who's selling, I want to see the motor?

[RalliartRsX]

jp_14. On insta

[d9m13n]

noob question, sorry in advance for my ignorance.

My current setup (parts in hand, not engine setup) incorporates a ross tuffbond race series balancer (no integrated crank trigger teeth) and the taarks hall effect cam sensor kit. I was under the impression that running a hall effect kit was simply a way to get a cleaner signal to the ecu rather than running the nissan cas. From what Im researching now am I correct in saying you have to run both a hall effect cam sensor as well as a crank trigger setup in order to utilize an aftermarket standalone ecu? Ill most likely either use an aem infinity or haltech elite.
If the answer is yes, and I need to incorporate a crank trigger into my build what options do I have? It looks like ross doesnt sell a separate crank trigger wheel for the race series balancers (must be ordered with the option of integrated crank trigger wheel). I cant run the mazworx or the taarks kits as both are made for the ATI balancer.
Open to suggestions on what to do, as well as short explanations as to what crank/cam trigger setups actually are since I cant find a straight answer anywhere in terms of our application and I feel like an idiot, lol

[RalliartRsX]

No. The taarks hall wheel acts as both a sync (180) and a home (1 degree) signal to determine where in the cycle the engine is currently.

That's exactly the way Nissan has it currently as the CAS does the same exact thing

[d9m13n]

No. The taarks hall wheel acts as both a sync (180) and a home (1 degree) signal to determine where in the cycle the engine is currently.

That's exactly the way Nissan has it currently as the CAS does the same exact thing

Huge relief, thanks a ton!

[SidewaySSS]

Hey everyone!
Newbie here, been lurking for a while & took the leap into Zilviadom last night.
I have a ton of work ahead of me, so will be adding my two cents & picking some brains along my journey.
Lots of very experienced & knowledgeable members here & the older I get, the less I wanna reinvent the wheel.
Some background; Been a Datsun/Nissan nut all my life, some were NA L series, some nitrous L series & the past 10 years or so, FJ’s & SR’s have been my choice.
I’m building a 510 now & going back to my L series roots on this one but later in the year I’ll be putting a 500-600hp VET into a 710 chassis.
The SR’s thus far haven’t been anything extreme, the most putting down 314 kw atw at 22 psi, remember these were all in old school Datsun platforms, 300kw is plenty.
So the VET build coming up will serpass all before & at 46years old with kids nearing college etc. I really can’t afford to bump my head & I’ll be leaning on all to head in the right direction.
Thanks in advance & thanks for this awesome forum.

[EsChassisLove]

Latest tune:

https://i.imgur.com/GoYVne6.jpg

sr22vet, Kelford 184-T cams, GTX35 1.06 A/R @ 35 psi, 70% ethanol.

725whp / 526 tq

This the GTX3576/82 or 84???

[Malik]

Props to candy red those are great numbers

[jr_ss]

for you guys who are pushing 700hp range. are you guys using -8 AN or -10 AN fuel lines.

-8AN fuel lines should suffice but folks just step up to -10AN for peace of mind.

Anyone here running Taarks Hall sensor and ECU Master ECU?? Or any other ecu with the taarks hall sensor??

Looking to pick someone's brain on setup.

It’s not the lines that are the issue. The I.D. of the fittings usually chokes down the fuel flow. While -6AN lines are larger than factory, the fittings are actually smaller. However, there are plenty of cars out there running -6 or factory lines well into the 600hp world. -8AN should be all you need for the SR. -10AN is require for 1000+hp.

[RalliartRsX]

Good to see you back jr!! How is you/fam and car doing?? Been a while :)

[d9m13n]

Wanted to ask a quick question from those of you who've had some higher hp sr's built. Is it more worthwhile to upgrade main caps or the girdle? I know the stock main caps have some issues with 'walk' around the 550-600hp mark and up. Will mazworx billet main caps solve this or is a JHH billet girdle paired with stock caps more than enough? I dont really want to do both as I dont see it as completely necessary for my build, but if either is cost effective insurance for track use Im willing to go with either.

[Yellow4g63]

I was wondering about that. I wasn't going to upgrade the main caps till I heard they have a cracking problem over 600hp.

[peglio]

Same here ha ha haven’t been able to find solid info on this other than on parts sites but then you don’t know if they’re just trying to sell their parts [emoji23]🤣 I’m looking to be around the 6-650 range on mine so would be good to get some proper info on what’s actually necessity


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[rbs14kouki]

Garage motive / jet200 s14 , andrew did talk about it ... main with the bolt hole in the middle and the weakess ... after that you have gtir main (they dont have a hole in them) 600/650 whp mark and after it would be billlet main + and 1/2 studs

I just dont know if gtir and a billet girddle like jhh or plazmaman would do the trick

[rbs14kouki]

I have mazworx billet main caps with 1/2 head studs and main studs that i think about selling !

[RalliartRsX]

Quick question

Is this cam damage beyond repair or worth to be ran?? The damage is to the CAS slot oon the exhaust cam

https://i.imgur.com/xQMF0tE.png

[jr_ss]

Good to see you back jr!! How is you/fam and car doing?? Been a while :)

I’ve been around, I just haven’t posted much, life is busy my friend. We are doing well. Finally settled down in SE PA in our own place. How are you?

Wanted to ask a quick question from those of you who've had some higher hp sr's built. Is it more worthwhile to upgrade main caps or the girdle? I know the stock main caps have some issues with 'walk' around the 550-600hp mark and up. Will mazworx billet main caps solve this or is a JHH billet girdle paired with stock caps more than enough? I dont really want to do both as I dont see it as completely necessary for my build, but if either is cost effective insurance for track use Im willing to go with either.

I would say the most substantial upgrade would be hardware and the girdle. The girdle ties all the pieces of the puzzle together in the bottom end.

Quick question

Is this cam damage beyond repair or worth to be ran?? The damage is to the CAS slot oon the exhaust cam

https://i.imgur.com/xQMF0tE.png

How much play does the damage allow? I would say if the cams drive forces are on the undamaged side, youd be fine. The cam should never rotate backwards. See picture below for explanation.

[RalliartRsX]

Well, doesn't matter now jr. The said cams were sent as a set, and somehow arrived as 2 pieces of exhaust cam and an intake cam.......So errrr, yeah.

[jr_ss]

Well, doesn't matter now jr. The said cams were sent as a set, and somehow arrived as 2 pieces of exhaust cam and an intake cam.......So errrr, yeah.

Have you found a car to put this setup in yet? Last we talked you didn’t even have a chassis.

[insa]

In case anyone's interested, here's an EFR 7163 .80 on my VE'd SR.
89mm x 91mm. Compression is around 10:1. P12 head which has oversized in/ex valves installed, no other headwork/porting/whatever done. P12 cams.

This was on ordinary pump fuel (93 in your AON rating).
1.8bar of boost tapering to 1.6bar (26 to 23psi).

567 PS is 417 kw.

Max dyno reading was 582 PS / 700 nm (515 lb ft) at 2 bar, but we decided for a bit of safety in the end as the car will see full throttle quite often and has to work in all kinds of situations (like 4th gear full throttle drifting on a slow track at 110 F).

Quite happy with the result. 500 nm (~370 lb ft) for nearly 4k of revband was the target. We about got there. With E85 this should be even wider...

Response on the dyno was mind blowing. Haven't driven it on the road yet. Freakin curious on how it will drive.

https://i.ibb.co/p2Q09Vb/sr23vet-small.jpg

[EsChassisLove]

Going mechanical pump on my P12 build. I haven’t really seen anyone else go mechanical.

Anyone else do this?

http://i64.tinypic.com/fk71qf.png

[Yellow4g63]

https://i.ibb.co/p2Q09Vb/sr23vet-small.jpg

Interesting is the boost falling in the higher RPM's? the power is falling slowly to 7500 or did you adjust the cam gears to get it that way?

[Yellow4g63]

Going mechanical pump on my P12 build. I haven’t really seen anyone else go mechanical.

Anyone else do this?

http://i64.tinypic.com/fk71qf.png


Are you mounting that where the flan clutch should go?

[EsChassisLove]

Are you mounting that where the flan clutch should go?

From the looks of the kit, it’s going to mount where the water pump would be, and driven off of the crank. I’m going electric water pump and e fans anyways.

[RalliartRsX]

Interesting is the boost falling in the higher RPM's? the power is falling slowly to 7500 or did you adjust the cam gears to get it that way?

A few things

- "60lb" turbo on 93 Octane, so no surprise to see it falling off up top
- P12 cams may be holding him back up top.
- Boost taper up top

Otherwise, this is a very wicked dyno! Love everything about it :). 300+ ft lbs over 4K (and @ 3600 at that) is fantastic and into V8 territory

[d9m13n]

Holy hell, thanks for posting your dyno. My setup incorporates a single scroll EFR 7163 .85 indycar turbo, and I was afraid I wouldn't be able to push 550 wheel out of it. This gives me a lot more confidence that it's the right turbo for my goals, especially since ill be on e85. Hopefully I dont suffer too much more with spool compared to your twin scroll/smaller a/r setup.

[RalliartRsX]

Evo boys make 600+ at all fours on a 7163


Where did you source the proprietary indycar v band turbine inlet flange and 3 bolt compressor inlet?

[d9m13n]

Evo boys make 600+ at all fours on a 7163


Where did you source the proprietary indycar v band turbine inlet flange and 3 bolt compressor inlet?

Turbine inlet flange was sourced from 3MI racing on facebook. Really nice quality, had it shipped directly to Jon @ futurefab who was making my manifold. Perfect fitment btw.
3MI makes 3 bolt inlet adapters as well, but they have none in stock and make them upon request. I have yet to source one from them, but I haven't seen them anywhere else. Still need to figure out that piece of my puzzle for now.

[RalliartRsX]

I am trying to have Jon make me a VE bottom mount T4 twin scroll for my 7163. However, he does not have any 4 cylinder twin scroll merge collectors handy :(

P.s Does that mean you are also on a EWG?? I am trying to keep IWG due to heat and packaging reasons.

[d9m13n]

Jon really helped me out with my manifold. I sourced a p12 head specific flange from Taarks as well as the turbine flange and he worked with me to make my ideal manifold.
Yes, I will be running EWG. Definitely something I thought pretty hard about, but it'll work best with my setup. Im utilizing a boosterless pedalbox setup which will keep my reservoirs in the cabin, and clear up all the firewall real estate on the drivers side of the engine bay. Gives me a lot of room to work with and keeps the heat from the hotside almost completely isolated. Im considering doing a wastegate dump out the hood where the master cylinder would sit stock, but not entirely sure on my exhaust situation quite yet. I sacrificed a lot of the features of the off the shelf 7163 (IWG, integrated BOV) but the weight savings and simplicity of the IRL turbo (while keeping the speed sensor, which was very important to me) just ended up outweighing the cons for me.

Again, not going to be ideal for everybody as I'm incorporating a lot of custom components, but everything on my build is tailored specifically to my unique needs and vision.

[RalliartRsX]

Actually, I worked with Jon as the test mule/provided measurements for his EFR top mount manifold 3-4 years ago so yeah, I would like to work with him again if at all possible :)

The stock photo with red/pink valve cover on a S14 he uses on his site?? Yeah, that was my car :)

[TheRealSy90]

I know there's a bunch of reputable fabricators who can make you a twin scroll collector and ship it over. Surprised he doesn't just make one if that's what you're wanting to pay for.

[RalliartRsX]

Easier and cheaper to just buy the collectors.
Also time saved

[TheRealSy90]

True, but then you risk justifying the integrity of your manifold with a collector that may or may not be up to par with the rest of the manifold. Strength wise.

[d9m13n]

True, but then you risk justifying the integrity of your manifold with a collector that may or may not be up to par with the rest of the manifold. Strength wise.

Could be solved with a cnc collector, no?

[RalliartRsX]

True, but then you risk justifying the integrity of your manifold with a collector that may or may not be up to par with the rest of the manifold. Strength wise.

Meh. That is less of an issue than you think. Vibrant makes great stuff for instance, but most Fabricators have a single or a few sources that they get the proper collector from and manifold material from.

Also, just buy from a reputable fabricator. Chances are, they are sourcing the proper material. Also, regardless of building your own or you sourcing them, most collectors are made from a small variety of SS and most material is either sourced from China or the US.

SS is resilient enough that small variations in SS makeup won't mark a noticeable difference unless you run into wild variations.

I trust Jon, as well as many other Fabricators, to get what is necessary. That's why I pay them the $$$ so I don't have to deal with all that :)

A Fabricators time is $$$. Why pay $50-$100 in material to spend 2-3 hours to make a collector, when they can just spend that same $100, buy a bunch and build several more manifolds in that time??

As the saying goes; sometimes the juice just aint worth the squeeze :)

[insa]

Interesting is the boost falling in the higher RPM's? the power is falling slowly to 7500 or did you adjust the cam gears to get it that way?
Nope, no adjustments.

A few things

- "60lb" turbo on 93 Octane, so no surprise to see it falling off up top
- P12 cams may be holding him back up top.
- Boost taper up top

Otherwise, this is a very wicked dyno! Love everything about it :). 300+ ft lbs over 4K (and @ 3600 at that) is fantastic and into V8 territory
Yes, I think so too. Overall it's a pretty small turbo and given the compression and slightly increased capacity, we expected this to happen... everybody "warned" me that the turbo would be too small, but it's a trade off I'm willing to accept for the response and drivability... :) Not only chasing numbers.
Very keen on trying a bigger turbine one day or see what more we can do with Ethanol. Had no money at hand for a proper flex fuel tune tbh. ;(
Btw there's a speed sensor installed and we were very far away from maxing it out.

[RalliartRsX]

insa, I just realized

Are you running a sleeved engine?? 89x91 is a big boy engine and probably why all the the torques :)

[insa]

Yep, it's sleeved and that's also part of the reason why the powerband shifts a bit to the left. Yes yes helps with torque as well :D

[insa]

Holy hell, thanks for posting your dyno. My setup incorporates a single scroll EFR 7163 .85 indycar turbo, and I was afraid I wouldn't be able to push 550 wheel out of it. This gives me a lot more confidence that it's the right turbo for my goals, especially since ill be on e85. Hopefully I dont suffer too much more with spool compared to your twin scroll/smaller a/r setup.
Cheers. :) I guess you will be fine and reach your goal with E85. :) Keen on seeing your dyno sheet one day.

[RalliartRsX]

Well all said and done, I will have two sets of N1 Intake/ 16VE exhaust cams up for sale if anyone wants a set. Guy is sending me the other exhaust cam.

EDIT: One set sold. One set left

[kojiki88]

I have a question about the PCV valve for the P11 head. I want to tap the PCV hole and the one to the back near it. What size would be good to go with? -8, -10?
Thank you

[RZRSHARP_240SX]

I used -8 for my valve cover

[RalliartRsX]

-10AN all around here. Its essentially the same ID as the stock.

[RalliartRsX]

..........Sooooo, anyone else got their VET up and running??

[peglio]

..........Sooooo, anyone else got their VET up and running??



Nope [emoji23][emoji23] just got my final bits back from balancing so should be collecting the engine in the next couple of weeks


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[d9m13n]

..........Sooooo, anyone else got their VET up and running??



My block is still getting assembled, have mostly everything else that I need to drop it in so I’m itching to get it back..

[Kaisen]

..........Sooooo, anyone else got their VET up and running??

Me me! Thought there were quite afew?

[RalliartRsX]

My block is still getting assembled, have mostly everything else that I need to drop it in so I’m itching to get it back..

Did you figure your manifold and turbo?? Still on a 7163 v band external gate?? Seems like Fab Bros now manufactures the Indy Car EFR v band inlet flange (at a premium of $110 a piece!!)

Me me! Thought there were quite afew?

Nice! Info to build??

I just got mine running a few days ago. Stock stroke, 86.5 bore, forged bottom end, supertech stock sized vales with some bowl work, EFR 7163, sinco manifold, JK41 gearbox.

Thing sounds mental! Doing intercooler piping tonight (hopefully) and redoing the exhaust later this week.

[d9m13n]

[QUOTE=RalliartRsX;6348833]Did you figure your manifold and turbo?? Still on a 7163 v band external gate?? Seems like Fab Bros now manufactures the Indy Car EFR v band inlet flange (at a premium of $110 a piece!!)



Got that flange from 3mi Racing some time back for about the same price. Sent it off to Jon at future fab along with a taarks p12 head flange and he made me a gorgeous manifold. Still need to track down an inlet adapter for the weird indycar 3 bolt inlethttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190702/28b7cbcff8df2498e0705f9eaa797c8c.jpg

[Kaisen]

Nice! Info to build??

I just got mine running a few days ago. Stock stroke, 86.5 bore, forged bottom end, supertech stock sized vales with some bowl work, EFR 7163, sinco manifold, JK41 gearbox.

Thing sounds mental! Doing intercooler piping tonight (hopefully) and redoing the exhaust later this week.

I'm using SR20VE CP pistons 87 bore, spool imports conrods, tomei HG 1.2mm(cant really recall), supertech valves and springs, full race twin scroll manifold with Borgwarner EFR 7670, 2x external wastegates 38mm. Looking at doing up the meth kit next! And maybe BC cams, and maybe stroke up to a 2.2 in the near future

[peglio]

I'm using SR20VE CP pistons 87 bore, spool imports conrods, tomei HG 1.2mm(cant really recall), supertech valves and springs, full race twin scroll manifold with Borgwarner EFR 7670, 2x external wastegates 38mm. Looking at doing up the meth kit next! And maybe BC cams, and maybe stroke up to a 2.2 in the near future



That sounds very similar to my build , interested to see your results !
Main difference is I’m on Darton sleeves , 89.5mm Carrillo pistons , carillo super pro a rods , full race efr7670 with twin 38mm as well . Not loads of people running this set up but have seen a couple of really nice builds with this turbo and it seems very well suited .
Is yours fully up and running ?


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[Kaisen]

That sounds very similar to my build , interested to see your results !
Main difference is I’m on Darton sleeves , 89.5mm Carrillo pistons , carillo super pro a rods , full race efr7670 with twin 38mm as well . Not loads of people running this set up but have seen a couple of really nice builds with this turbo and it seems very well suited .
Is yours fully up and running ?


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Yep! It's my daily car haha. It's putting down about 360hp on wheels on a mainline dyno. No bragging rights as it's a heartbreaker dyno. But once the cams switch profile and the turbo starts building boost on the highway, I get scared as well lol.

Yours is way more hardcore! 89.5mm! That's some serious business

[peglio]

Yep! It's my daily car haha. It's putting down about 360hp on wheels on a mainline dyno. No bragging rights as it's a heartbreaker dyno. But once the cams switch profile and the turbo starts building boost on the highway, I get scared as well lol.

Yours is way more hardcore! 89.5mm! That's some serious business



That’s fully awesome man ha ha would love to be able to daily mine but it would just get ruined [emoji23][emoji23]
That’s what I’m really looking forward to being scared by it [emoji23] do you have any videos of the car at all ? Would love to see / hear what it’s like !
Yeah my car is just a weekend toy and sort of showcase for my business so gone a bit ott with everything [emoji1787][emoji1787] totally unnecessary but hopefully will be good .
Do you find it to be pretty responsive downlow with the big housing ? Assuming the twin scroll takes up the slack a bit ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kaisen]

That’s fully awesome man ha ha would love to be able to daily mine but it would just get ruined [emoji23][emoji23]
That’s what I’m really looking forward to being scared by it [emoji23] do you have any videos of the car at all ? Would love to see / hear what it’s like !
Yeah my car is just a weekend toy and sort of showcase for my business so gone a bit ott with everything [emoji1787][emoji1787] totally unnecessary but hopefully will be good .
Do you find it to be pretty responsive downlow with the big housing ? Assuming the twin scroll takes up the slack a bit ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I dont have any videos, but I have some pictures hehe. Engine bay is not the fanciest but Im not doing it for show, so heck it. I can move off the lights decently enough.

https://ibb.co/GFYhkQn
https://ibb.co/QJYNG9m

[peglio]

I dont have any videos, but I have some pictures hehe. Engine bay is not the fanciest but Im not doing it for show, so heck it. I can move off the lights decently enough.

https://ibb.co/GFYhkQn
https://ibb.co/QJYNG9m



Nice one man [emoji1591] looks snug in the bay , is there much clearance to the turret from the turbo ? That’s the only thing worrying me with mine as I have quite large tubs due to running 19’s
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190703/08af76f780d80398981feb481627632b.jpg

Are any of you guys on insta ?
Love following peoples builds [emoji16]


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[Kaisen]

Nice one man [emoji1591] looks snug in the bay , is there much clearance to the turret from the turbo ? That’s the only thing worrying me with mine as I have quite large tubs due to running 19’s

Are any of you guys on insta ?
Love following peoples builds [emoji16]


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

I had to hammer my wheel well just a little as the inlet pipe is touching it. But other than that not much issues. What's your insta?

[peglio]

I had to hammer my wheel well just a little as the inlet pipe is touching it. But other than that not much issues. What's your insta?



Sounds like I will have some issues then ha ha will have to see when the engine is in all mocked up !
Personal is peglio13 and my business page is bigbearkustomsltd , we do custom paint and body on mainly jdm stuff [emoji16][emoji1591]


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[RalliartRsX]

Nice to see some activity!

I am going to be redoing the exhaust and putting together the intercooler piping over the next few days. Hope to drop the radiator in, locate a small oil leak, figure out the wastegate actuator mount and hopefully get her fired up again and coolant bled. Off to bleeding the clutch/brakes and then looming the wiring and putting the interior back in.

Excited for this!

I dont have any videos, but I have some pictures hehe. Engine bay is not the fanciest but Im not doing it for show, so heck it. I can move off the lights decently enough.

https://ibb.co/GFYhkQn
https://ibb.co/QJYNG9m

Have an insta to follow your build??

[d9m13n]

Nice to see some activity!

I am going to be redoing the exhaust and putting together the intercooler piping over the next few days. Hope to drop the radiator in, locate a small oil leak, figure out the wastegate actuator mount and hopefully get her fired up again and coolant bled. Off to bleeding the clutch/brakes and then looming the wiring and putting the interior back in.

Excited for this!



Have an insta to follow your build??

Share some pics (or your IG)! I want to see more of your setup and see what Im in for when my block gets back.
Glad to see a lot of people in here with EFR's, hoping to see some graphs and results in this thread soon from you all.
I'm @after_hours13, trying to start documenting my build after having started it a long while ago.. Should be making a lot of progress very soon

[RalliartRsX]

Oh I have documentation. Full excel spreadsheet (which needs updating I had to auto recover several months back and was disgusted by how much I spent hahaha!), word document, wiring diagrams, ecu pinouts, valve shim clearance, part numbers, etc etc. hahahaha!

Anyways, boost_lee_145. Not much to see as I only divulged the build to a select few (couldn't be bothered with keyboard warriors and their inherent lack of creativity and knowledge......yeah, I should be in the grump old man thread hahaha!)

PM whatever questions you had in mind. I think we will have similar setups at the end of the day. My tune is scheduled for Aug 23rd.....which sucks as my tuner simply had no open slots in July :(

[Kaisen]

Nice to see some activity!

I am going to be redoing the exhaust and putting together the intercooler piping over the next few days. Hope to drop the radiator in, locate a small oil leak, figure out the wastegate actuator mount and hopefully get her fired up again and coolant bled. Off to bleeding the clutch/brakes and then looming the wiring and putting the interior back in.

Excited for this!



Have an insta to follow your build??

Mine is kaiisen. But I dont have much stuff of my car to post though since everything is done already haha

[d9m13n]

Pretty good deal on a decent conservative drop in setup on Facebook right now for anyone considering going VET but hasn’t started yet

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190706/5c057b4b3ba0442e89be802a86118ab9.jpg

[d9m13n]

Anybody parting out their setup, Im tentatively looking for a built bottom end done to vet specs. Dont need anything else, just the block. PM me if you have or know of one.

[RalliartRsX]

Did Tim sell his?? WHat happened to your block at the machine shop??

I will get in contact with Juan. He may have exactly what you need

[240KA]

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67267786_10107766138408267_3350398069421113344_n.j pg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_oc=AQnJKbLzWm3O8DbDIpWkuWQ33sXoYBiIA5KDg9QRdiG SaqK0eB_BvMQ-mNBLqB5KcfbYaK-1mBIWgcK1h57HT-Ym&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=512fb7734e30d6e763690d2e1cd8350b&oe=5DDF9CCC

[bardabe]

Anybody parting out their setup, Im tentatively looking for a built bottom end done to vet specs. Dont need anything else, just the block. PM me if you have or know of one.

I’ve been selling my VVL setup for a while now. Steve bought the cylinder head and all the TARKS parts. I Still have a brand new block with all parts ready to assemble for the right buyer.

[bardabe]

Did Tim sell his?? WHat happened to your block at the machine shop??

I will get in contact with Juan. He may have exactly what you need

😘 you the man! (Steve also hit me up about this. Ya’ll the MVP’s )

[d9m13n]

Juan’s setup is ideally what I’d like to run, but unfortunately I’m not looking for another block I’ll have to have assembled.

My machine shop is overloaded with work and probably will not have my block back in 2 months or so. I have mostly everything I need to throw together my engine bay minus the block, but I can’t make any progress on designing/fabricating my v mount or my exhaust, or just situating parts in general until I have my engine in. I could have the car complete within that 2 month span if I could find a used block, already assembled to rwd vet specs and have it here within a few days. Then I have the bonus of having a spare assembled fresh block on the shelf should anything bad happen.

Contacted the guy on Facebook who’s ad I actually posted above, however his pistons don’t have valve reliefs and won’t work with my n1 cams. Can anyone tell me whether I could run p11 cams with a thicker headgasket and be okay? The only variable would be that his head is p11 and mine is p12, not sure if that changes valve clearances at all (I don’t believe so, but I figured you guys would have more insight)

[bardabe]

Juan’s setup is ideally what I’d like to run, but unfortunately I’m not looking for another block I’ll have to have assembled.

My machine shop is overloaded with work and probably will not have my block back in 2 months or so. I have mostly everything I need to throw together my engine bay minus the block, but I can’t make any progress on designing/fabricating my v mount or my exhaust, or just situating parts in general until I have my engine in. I could have the car complete within that 2 month span if I could find a used block, already assembled to rwd vet specs and have it here within a few days. Then I have the bonus of having a spare assembled fresh block on the shelf should anything bad happen.

Contacted the guy on Facebook who’s ad I actually posted above, however his pistons don’t have valve reliefs and won’t work with my n1 cams. Can anyone tell me whether I could run p11 cams with a thicker headgasket and be okay? The only variable would be that his head is p11 and mine is p12, not sure if that changes valve clearances at all (I don’t believe so, but I figured you guys would have more insight)

Shoot me a PM I can assemble it for you for a fee. I just need to know all the details on your setup and planes use so we can know the limitations

[RalliartRsX]

Juan’s setup is ideally what I’d like to run, but unfortunately I’m not looking for another block I’ll have to have assembled.

My machine shop is overloaded with work and probably will not have my block back in 2 months or so. I have mostly everything I need to throw together my engine bay minus the block, but I can’t make any progress on designing/fabricating my v mount or my exhaust, or just situating parts in general until I have my engine in. I could have the car complete within that 2 month span if I could find a used block, already assembled to rwd vet specs and have it here within a few days. Then I have the bonus of having a spare assembled fresh block on the shelf should anything bad happen.

Contacted the guy on Facebook who’s ad I actually posted above, however his pistons don’t have valve reliefs and won’t work with my n1 cams. Can anyone tell me whether I could run p11 cams with a thicker headgasket and be okay? The only variable would be that his head is p11 and mine is p12, not sure if that changes valve clearances at all (I don’t believe so, but I figured you guys would have more insight)


Juan) Have Ob-Juan Vargas build your that block :)

Juan-a) Profit!

dos) You could get away with a thicker head gasket, yes. However, how thick is the real question and in return, that will also drop your compression ratio. The drop is not insignificant either. I have the calculation somewhere around here if you need.

3) P11 or P12 head will have the same Valve clearances. There is a difference in head casting, however, there is no effect on valve design and actuation.

[RZRSHARP_240SX]

I run N1 cams without valve reliefs without issues. I used a thicker head gasket to help.

[RalliartRsX]

So, there is a chance, the rear oil drain on the block that was blocked off may be leaking......

Engine was machined a year ago and assembled with the plug, so no chance in even talking to them. Either way, the question is, any way to seal this up without having to tear the block down?? Below is the drain I am referring to. I will know for sure during the next startup if its indeed leaking so planning for the worse :(. Mind you, this is the first startup since the engine was assembled late last year.

http://frontstreet-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/VE-32_edit.jpg

[S13VE]

All you can really do is remove the head, fix the leak and put the head back on. Well, technically you also put some nasty stop leak stuff in it, but the risk to reward reatio is poor.

I've removed a CA head with both manfiolds attached, but in the end I questioned if it saved me any time. My issue was more damaged exhaust studs stopped me getting the manifold off to change a head gasket.

As an aside, I only just remembered this thread because I am only just now sending all my gear off to be built 0_0

https://i.ibb.co/D9Y4Yg0/20190804-143425.jpg (https://ibb.co/D9Y4Yg0)

[RalliartRsX]

........not an answer I anted, but one I expected none the less. Dyno tune is on Aug 23rd so this may throw a wrench in those plans :(

[brndck]

........not an answer I anted, but one I expected none the less. Dyno tune is on Aug 23rd so this may throw a wrench in those plans :(

are the threads damaged? does the plug just need some Teflon tape to seal?

[S13VE]

I was planning on using Taarks push in plug, what did you use?

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-drain-plug-ve-conversion-sr20

[RalliartRsX]

I was planning on using Taarks push in plug, what did you use?

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-drain-plug-ve-conversion-sr20

I actually picked up a similar plug recently. However, the current item is threaded and fitted with a M16 I think, plug

are the threads damaged? does the plug just need some Teflon tape to seal?

So not sure. I doubt the machine shop used Teflon tape. If they did, then I am up a creek as that will require a full block teardown and taking to machine shop to get sorted :(

[S13VE]

The seal I linked is the same thing Mazworx use, builder says he has never had an issue with those and they are cheap. Not sure if you can go that way now though.

Fingers crossed for you.

[RalliartRsX]

Don't think so. The hole is now threaded and a press seal via a rubber o ring will get destroyed via the first thread lol.

We will see. I am (finally) pouring distilled water to do a warm up and to check for leaks. Fingers crossed indeed!

[S13VE]

Why do you think it's leaking if you're only just now starting it to do a leak check?

[RalliartRsX]

I did a few initial start ups before to set the taarks CAS and a few other items

Either way, did a longer term startup tonight. So far, it seems the drain plug wasn't leaking and it was from a prior leak when I replaced the valve cover gasket

1) I did find a leak in one of the oil cooler AN fittings
2) The dipstick tubing was not fully seated, so need to reseat and bolt down the tube

So a bit of a relief :)

[S13VE]

Big relief.

I literally just dropped my gear off at the freight depot.

Let the stress begin.

[RalliartRsX]

P.S man is the VE a loud engine lol. Lots of mechanical noise from the valvetrain (clearance is exactly as stated in the FSM as I shimmed the head 4 times in total lol)

Also just realized I had the valve cover vent capped off, so I am sure there was a ton of crank case pressure :(

[S13VE]

When do you hit the dyno?

[RalliartRsX]

Aug 23rd. I hope (fingers crossed) to have this drivable by some time next week (fix leaks, clean up base map, do home alignment, bleed clutch and brake and take it for a spin around the block)

[S13VE]

Sorry you did mention that, good luck.

[RalliartRsX]

Good news is the leak was coming from one of the oil lines. All fixed up. Boost leaks located and all set. Warmed it up a few times, etc. So far so good.

[S13VE]

Excellent news.

Good luck next week/week after.

[d9m13n]

Can anybody with an s13 measure the distance from their head to the strut tower on the intake manifold side for me? Fabricator wants to know for plenum clearance and I don’t have an engine in the car quite yet. Would be a huge help!

[brndck]

Can anybody with an s13 measure the distance from their head to the strut tower on the intake manifold side for me? Fabricator wants to know for plenum clearance and I don’t have an engine in the car quite yet. Would be a huge help!
shut up and buy my mazworx manifold
https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=668441

[d9m13n]

shut up and buy my mazworx manifold
https://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=668441

slap a tape measure across that bad boy and let me know what you got :)

TBH I would have just bought a plazmaman manifold if I knew this guy was going to take 8 months to put this manifold together, but Ive already invested the money and need to see it through

[RalliartRsX]

Same guy who did JP's mani??

PM me on who you went with for your block.

[d9m13n]

Same guy who did JP's mani??

PM me on who you went with for your block.

Yep, Kyle Nardi. Kid does good work, just really hard to actually get him to do the work. Heard that from a lot of people, not just my experience. Doesnt help that hes had a lot of personal struggles throughout the last year or so but thats neither here nor there.

[brndck]

slap a tape measure across that bad boy and let me know what you got :)

TBH I would have just bought a plazmaman manifold if I knew this guy was going to take 8 months to put this manifold together, but Ive already invested the money and need to see it through

no prob, ill measure it this evening

[d9m13n]

What has everyone done for their catch can/PCV routing? p12 valve cover

Finally have an engine in my car and Im excited to start getting into the little details :2f2f:

https://i.imgur.com/NR9anKql.jpg

[RalliartRsX]

Run the PCV port and back port to catch can. Keep the block ventilation. Run catch can to either a vacuum source (turbo inlet) or open.

Done.

[d9m13n]

Block ventilation meaning back right hose connection on the block to the back right fitting on valve cover?

[RalliartRsX]

Yep. The one on the driver's side by the firewall/exhaust/downpipe. Keep that line in place. Vent the rest of the valve cover to whatever you see fit.

[d9m13n]

Thanks! Easy enough. Are most people keeping the stock pcv valve or just replacing with a straight fitting?

[RalliartRsX]

Replacing with a straight fitting. Keep the PCV if routing to the intake (manifold). The only reason the PCV is there is to not allow boost back into valve cover causing all sorts of issues (like increased crankcase and under valve cover pressure for instance) and to allow only vacuum to work on help pulling the crank case pressure and oil vapor and allow the baffles in the valve cover to take care of it.

[kojiki88]

Replacing with a straight fitting. Keep the PCV if routing to the intake (manifold). The only reason the PCV is there is to not allow boost back into valve cover causing all sorts of issues (like increased crankcase and under valve cover pressure for instance) and to allow only vacuum to work on help pulling the crank case pressure and oil vapor and allow the baffles in the valve cover to take care of it.

Now that you mentioned straight fitting, what kind of fitting exactly. Tap the valve cover for an AN screw on fitting? I'm wondering if there is another type of fitting that'll work that does not involve removing my valve cover. lol

[brndck]

Now that you mentioned straight fitting, what kind of fitting exactly. Tap the valve cover for an AN screw on fitting? I'm wondering if there is another type of fitting that'll work that does not involve removing my valve cover. lol

taarks makes a block off fitting. you could always take something like this and drill/tap it for whatever breather line you like, rather than remove your valve cover for welding

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/pcv-block-off-plug-s14-s15-t30-p11-p12-r33-r34-r35

[d9m13n]

P12 VC pcv fittings are screw in if I’m not mistaken, but I’m not sure what the threads are. I’ll try to find out if nobody knows offhand. Would make it much much easier to get an adapter rather than welding/pressing/tapping etc.

Edit: I’m only referring to the pcv fitting being screw in. The regular hose end fittings on the right side and rear of the VC are press fit

[mewantkouki]

^ No they aren’t. They use a plastic PCV valve that’s a press fit with a rubber grommet like an s14 / s14 vc.

[d9m13n]

^ No they aren’t. They use a plastic PCV valve that’s a press fit with a rubber grommet like an s14 / s14 vc.



You’re right. I saw p12 pcv valves with threads after a quick search, not realizing they’re for p12s with the qr20 not the sr.

[PRT73]

Hello everyone, your page makes me dream, I am thinking to buy head sr20ve, I currently have a sr20det redtop, with head hs, because of a pusher, the head sr20ve on a sr20det and reliable ? I see video or shims jumps ? because my goal and 550whp for drift , max 8000rpm ( stock springs ?) :eek3d:


thank you for the support!

[brndck]

Hello everyone, your page makes me dream, I am thinking to buy head sr20ve, I currently have a sr20det redtop, with head hs, because of a pusher, the head sr20ve on a sr20det and reliable ? I see video or shims jumps ? because my goal and 550whp for drift , max 8000rpm ( stock springs ?) :eek3d:


thank you for the support!

there are a number of people who do have issues with shims spitting out. some people are machining custom valve stem caps to resolve the issue, other people are using shimless valves to solve the issue.

VE head does have many advantages over normal sr20 head, but it is NOT cheap.

[PRT73]

Thank you for the answer !!! Interressing as a solution, do you have any links as I look at the machined shims?

[brndck]

Thank you for the answer !!! Interressing as a solution, do you have any links as I look at the machined shims?

I don't have any links, one of the local machinists around here is working on producing them, but he's not a large business or anything. I'll try to get some photos if I can.

[PRT73]

Thank you because here in France no information I would be the only one

[brndck]

Thank you because here in France no information I would be the only one

you may want to contact BS Bildeler, I believe they're in Norway or Sweden? they built a crazy sr20vet a few years ago

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co0vuzqEpS0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co0vuzqEpS0

[s13silvia123]

I don't have any links, one of the local machinists around here is working on producing them, but he's not a large business or anything. I'll try to get some photos if I can.

I'm running custom valves, the top of the valve stems are machined. the valves are just longer, tips are longer then machined to OE spec clearances. so in term the shims are tossed out.

[PRT73]

you may want to contact BS Bildeler, I believe they're in Norway or Sweden? they built a crazy sr20vet a few years ago

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co0vuzqEpS0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co0vuzqEpS0


great , and looking mazworx

[PRT73]

I'm running custom valves, the top of the valve stems are machined. the valves are just longer, tips are longer then machined to OE spec clearances. so in term the shims are tossed out.

interresed , you have picture ? and the price for the setup ? thanks you

[brndck]

interresed , you have picture ? and the price for the setup ? thanks you

https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/558-Mazworx-Shimless-SR20VE-Turbo-Intake-Exhaust-Valves-clone.aspx

your machine shop has to do all the measuring and machining to set the proper lash for your head. the big issue is, if you machine too much off, you have to replace the valve, you can't really add length back on to it.

[d9m13n]

If there's anybody whos been lurking this thread and wanted to start building an sr20vet, all the parts from my old setup are now for sale and Ill make a killer package deal if someone wants to take everything :) Stout 500whp shortblock that just needs machining and assembly!

[s13silvia123]

interresed , you have picture ? and the price for the setup ? thanks you

let me get a hold of the person I got them from. he's the main dealer for the custom P12 SR20VE stuff

which VE head do you have? P11 or P12?

you'll need the valves and machine them for clearance. also machine the retainer to these specs

like this

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqTGJCzpW1E8hEmPS54_42-NM1fZ?e=Ks7ZId

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqTGJCzpW1E8hEpdOU6PFTnR2D_E?e=eRk8bC

I believe those are in metric so you'll understand them or a machinist will.

[PRT73]

im looking for p12 sr20ve head , the p11 sr16ve is more best for turbo setup ?

[d9m13n]

im looking for p12 sr20ve head , the p11 sr16ve is more best for turbo setup ?



I have a p12 head with N1 cams for sale currently

[PRT73]

let me get a hold of the person I got them from. he's the main dealer for the custom P12 SR20VE stuff

which VE head do you have? P11 or P12?

you'll need the valves and machine them for clearance. also machine the retainer to these specs

like this

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqTGJCzpW1E8hEmPS54_42-NM1fZ?e=Ks7ZId

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqTGJCzpW1E8hEpdOU6PFTnR2D_E?e=eRk8bC

I believe those are in metric so you'll understand them or a machinist will.

Thank you for the photos, editing very interesting! I think follow, if you have the link of the machiner and the overall price, valve + shims + adjustment

thank you

[PRT73]

I have a p12 head with N1 cams for sale currently



the purchase problem in the united states and customs price + transport, how much do you sell?

[PRT73]

for a turbo mount on sr20vet with 550 whp, which cam shaft are the best torque and power levels to have torque down?

[brndck]

for a turbo mount on sr20vet with 550 whp, which cam shaft are the best torque and power levels to have torque down?

stock cams will be fine. if you really feel like spending money in that area

https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/370-Kelford-Cams-SR20VE-184-ST-Racing-Camshaft-Set.aspx

[d9m13n]

the purchase problem in the united states and customs price + transport, how much do you sell?

$1500usd plus shipping if youre interested

[PRT73]

let me get a hold of the person I got them from. he's the main dealer for the custom P12 SR20VE stuff

which VE head do you have? P11 or P12?

you'll need the valves and machine them for clearance. also machine the retainer to these specs

like this

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqTGJCzpW1E8hEmPS54_42-NM1fZ?e=Ks7ZId

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqTGJCzpW1E8hEpdOU6PFTnR2D_E?e=eRk8bC

I believe those are in metric so you'll understand them or a machinist will.

I use p11 head with sr20ve cams, my max rpm and expected to 8500 on 550/600 hp possible to keep the shims and just spring supertech 120lbs?

[PRT73]

$1500usd plus shipping if youre interested

sorry with the calculation the price is too expensive, I prefer to find in europe

[PRT73]

stock cams will be fine. if you really feel like spending money in that area

https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/370-Kelford-Cams-SR20VE-184-ST-Racing-Camshaft-Set.aspx

lol, no it will suit me perfectly, I was just looking if cam sr16ve was better for torques

[s13silvia123]

I use p11 head with sr20ve cams, my max rpm and expected to 8500 on 550/600 hp possible to keep the shims and just spring supertech 120lbs?

this is the person to get a hold of.

Jose Beltre

look for him on facebook.

i sort of forgot his user name on here. maybe Seablt something like that.

i bought a lot of stuff from and his does deliver them on time or for a little more depends on or how you want your stuff done. you'll also have to understand that there's also a lead time for the custom parts too.

[turtl631]

I have some engine carnage. Anyone looking to sell a P11 head?

[d9m13n]

I have some engine carnage. Anyone looking to sell a P11 head?



I’m selling a p12 head with n1 cams if you’d be interested

[turtl631]

Saw that, already have everything set up p11 and I actually have a set of N1 cams too so I'll pass.

[RalliartRsX]

I have some engine carnage. Anyone looking to sell a P11 head?

Dude, Def gon be pissed!!

So what happened?? Been finally hitting the HPDE trail this this?? Ive seen zero updates from ya :(

[turtl631]

Oh he's well aware, we talk all the time. In the end I think a money shift with a transient overrev to 9600 may have caused some float. I've done a handful of track events with it but a few engine problems as well as having two kids since I've gotten it has cramped my style. In the end it's just been easier to take the daily driver out on the track...

The longer story is I bought the car a little over 2 years ago. I took it out on track once and the sweet custom lightweight alternator bracket broke, but I also Miss shifted and had that small overall. Car drove okay and got me home but I had cracked a few retainers. Kid was born, over the winter got the head fixed up or so I thought, and swapped to the z33 transmission. Last year tracked it a few times with some various issues with the tune. Def actually passed through town and we did some street tuning. Last event last year it was down on power. Had another kid this year and I couldn't get the car to start I ended up finding a damage spark plug on cylinder 4. Took the head off and majority of the intake valve guides head cracked off and the head has significant foreign object damage. So, I need a new head as well as two new pistons. With two kids under two it's a little hard to work on the car much less update a build tread on a dead forum.

https://imgur.com/a/lXrea79

[RalliartRsX]

So who here is running a EFR and a twin or single port TS gate??

I have a single port, and I suspect it is unable to properly control boost via solenoid. No matter what we did, it wouldn't do more than wastegate pressure.

Looking into a twin port now, but just curios as to why the single port wouldn't work .

[speedingmofa]

If it's unable to control boost, i'd expect the boost to keep creeping up. Your issue is the other way around.
Could that point out you have way too much backpressure? I.e. your turbine housing is too small? Maybe a backpressure gauge could tell you more whether that's your issue.

[RalliartRsX]

Its a T4 twin scroll, so 0.8 (or .93 as BW EFR measure it) turbine housing. We pulled the exhaust off from the cat back, so it was only downpipe, and still the same issue. So it wasn't a back pressure issue. We picked up less than 8WHP when we pulled the cat, so definitely wasn't a back pressure issue. And the same occurred.

Gate was just wide open it seems regardless of duty cycle. We could get it to spike mid range, but it always went back to wastegate pressure and tapered off by 7K RPM.

[speedingmofa]

Its a T4 twin scroll, so 0.8 (or .93 as BW EFR measure it) turbine housing. We pulled the exhaust off from the cat back, so it was only downpipe, and still the same issue. So it wasn't a back pressure issue. We picked up less than 8WHP when we pulled the cat, so definitely wasn't a back pressure issue. And the same occurred.

Gate was just wide open it seems regardless of duty cycle. We could get it to spike mid range, but it always went back to wastegate pressure and tapered off by 7K RPM.

You've removed everything post turbine, i.e. elbow downpipe etc. The issue usually never is there unless it's blocked.
I was referring to the backpressure between engine and turbine wheel. So pre-turbine pressure.

[RalliartRsX]

There shouldn't be. Its a Sinco custom top mount mani with I think 1.25 primaries. Its a semi equal length twin scroll manifold. Should be fairly uninhibited flow to the turbine.

[speedingmofa]

There shouldn't be. Its a Sinco custom top mount mani with I think 1.25 primaries. Its a semi equal length twin scroll manifold. Should be fairly uninhibited flow to the turbine.

No, not the manifold itself.

To me it sounds as if there is something blocking you from making any more power. You said it yourself, it doesn't hold anymore than wastegate pressure. So something seems to be blocking the air coming out of the turbine, the pressure is strong enough to push against your wastegate spring, preventing the turbine from making any more boost.

Could it be that the turbine housing/wheel combination is the "blockage"?

You may want to check out this article: http://www.stavtech.co.uk/home/exhaust-backpressure-on-turbo-engines-never-good

[RalliartRsX]

I doubt its the turbine wheel as it's the same turbo setup evo boys have made 600+awhp on. So I doubt asking 450whp with of airflow is a limiting factor. Match bot states it should be good for an easy 450 whp

Also, we can get it to spike in the mid range, its just unable to hold the pressure the more revs we give it.

[S14rebuild]

You sure u have the wastegate/boost controller plumbed properly? How many ports does ur wastegate have?

[RalliartRsX]

So we checked a few times to confirm. I may actually swap the vacuum lines now that time home, but pretty sure they are ran correctly. We tried both the EFR and the MAC valve

Single.port internal turbosmart iwg75 gate

[kojiki88]

Hey guys quick question. Does the P12 Valve cover work on the P11 head? If so, would the P11 valve cover gaskets work with the P12 Valve cover?
Thank you very much for any input.

[RalliartRsX]

^Yes and No.

[kojiki88]

^Yes and No.
Awesome, Thank you for the reply. I'll be getting P12 valve cover gaskets as well.

[kojiki88]

Sorry to bother everyone but I have another question. So I have finished setting up my motor, bled the coolant system and its maintaining a constant 158 degrees Fahrenheit.
Its running a Nismo thermostat, Clutch fan setup with a GKTECH fan.
Is it normal to see 158 degrees and not get any warmer?
Thanks

[Yellow4g63]

Did u drive it yet? Putting load on it will make the temps go up vs idle.

[wurley]

with the same setup, clutch fan +nismo thermostat, I dont see over 160 when im just idling

[kojiki88]

I drove it for the first time last weekend to my brothers house a few blocks away and it stayed at that temperature. I did not want to drive it too far in case something went wrong lol. I asked because it is running rich at idle (10.2 ) I thought maybe its running too cool with the Nismo thermostat and maybe had to put in an OEM thermostat. I am guessing the current base tune needs to be adjusted and leaned out a bit at idle.

[RalliartRsX]

160 is way too cold. 185 -205 is the proper temp range for the engine to function properly. When pil, piston rings, etc. Is too cold, you introduce friction or just oil not properly lubricating


Dump the nismo. That's a bandaid for people who have a shit running car

[S13VE]

160 is way too cold. 185 -205 is the proper temp range for the engine to function properly. When pil, piston rings, etc. Is too cold, you introduce friction or just oil not properly lubricating


Dump the nismo. That's a bandaid for people who have a shit running car

Dyno'd yet?

Work on mine is just about to begin finally :)

[RalliartRsX]

Unfortunately, nothing too significant to report back.

14 psi made slightly less than 300WHP on a heart breaker. The IWG75 single port wouldn't take any duty cycle so we were stuck @ 14. Also had a phantom cam sync error @ 7k

Apart from that, considering how this all started, I can say it went well. Already installed a twin port gate and am awaiting a properly designed (that is not 1200 like the mazworx kit) crank trigger kit that doesn't push out the PS pump.

Car runs really good and is a freaking riot! Been slowly buttoning up things (reinstalling interior, splash shields, radio, speakers, etc etc). JK41 shifts nice and firm. Overall, really happy with how it turned out.

May try and make a few boost runs tomorrow to see if the gate is working as it should. Took it out a few hours ago after I did a home alignment to check things over.

Glad I went VET! The sound and spool is intoxicating

[S13VE]

Not even a single video clip....

[jr_ss]

Unfortunately, nothing too significant to report back.

14 psi made slightly less than 300WHP on a heart breaker. The IWG75 single port wouldn't take any duty cycle so we were stuck @ 14. Also had a phantom cam sync error @ 7k

Apart from that, considering how this all started, I can say it went well. Already installed a twin port gate and am awaiting a properly designed (that is not 1200 like the mazworx kit) crank trigger kit that doesn't push out the PS pump.

Car runs really good and is a freaking riot! Been slowly buttoning up things (reinstalling interior, splash shields, radio, speakers, etc etc). JK41 shifts nice and firm. Overall, really happy with how it turned out.

May try and make a few boost runs tomorrow to see if the gate is working as it should. Took it out a few hours ago after I did a home alignment to check things over.

Glad I went VET! The sound and spool is intoxicating

Wait until you turn the wick up... 3rd gear tailwag is intoxicating.

[DoingOK]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206666536820300&set=pcb.3057798130916020&type=3&theater&ifg=1Looking for some help with a SR20DET build please. After scouring the internet for hours, it seems that there is no specific numbering sequence that would help place the cam caps in the correct order. These caps were already removed and in a bag so I don't have the correct reference as to what order they go in. The last one with the oiling port is obvious as to its' placement and it looks like there are dimples punched in three out of four caps. It would be a guess as to where these fall in line. Any help or recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Hmmmm.....won't let me attach a pic.

[RalliartRsX]

All the cam caps are lettered (I for intake), marked with an arrow for direction and numbered on every single VE head.

Are you sure you have the correct caps?

[PRT73]

stock cams will be fine. if you really feel like spending money in that area

https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/370-Kelford-Cams-SR20VE-184-ST-Racing-Camshaft-Set.aspx


hello , when you say stock cams, is it p11 sr20ve or sr16ve? Because I have sr20ve

thanks you !!

[RalliartRsX]

P11 SR20VE cams is what he is referring to

[SidewaySSS]

Has anyone on here used N1 cams on a turbo setup, if so, what are the drawbacks?

[RalliartRsX]

^^^^None??

[S13VE]

I went Kelford, I have upgraded everything else in the head already and have had good experience with them in the past by simply telling them what my goal was, turbo choice etc etc.

On my old 34R, the dyno result was exactly within the range they had said to expect.

[Def]

Has anyone on here used N1 cams on a turbo setup, if so, what are the drawbacks?

I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).

This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.


The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.

Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).

The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.

[d9m13n]

Wondering now if I should stick with my p12s or get a set of N1s for my own 7163 setup. Any chance you have a graph with the n1s? I’d love to see the curve

[peglio]

I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).



This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.





The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.



Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).



The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.



I have custom cams very similar profile to the n1 and an efr7670 going on mine , will post up the results when it’s mapped in the new year [emoji1360] hopefully should still be pretty responsive


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[RalliartRsX]

Update: Sold the ECU and upgrading to the latest ECU Master Black (if anyone has one for sale before I plunk down in the next 2 days. Just waiting on black friday deals)

[Def]

Wondering now if I should stick with my p12s or get a set of N1s for my own 7163 setup. Any chance you have a graph with the n1s? I’d love to see the curve

I never dyno'd the car. turtl631 owns it now, when he gets it back up and running maybe he'll dyno it.

The calculated mass airflow never flatlined at the revs I was bringing it to, so even if friction was rising, it probably was still making more power with more revs.

[Def]

Wondering now if I should stick with my p12s or get a set of N1s for my own 7163 setup. Any chance you have a graph with the n1s? I’d love to see the curve

P12s are pretty close to N1s on the high cam. Not quite as aggressive, but should be fine.

Honestly, I would change if you can do basically an even trade for them, but if you have to put up decent money I'd keep the P12s.

Don't get caught up in building "the best" - just build something you like and drive it.

[PRT73]

Hello everyone, I'm on the construction of my SR22VET, I need a new oil pump for my assembly, I discovered on ebay a cheap oil pump to 70 dollars. the price seems super low it makes you want to buy. But it's Chinese shit or someone here has already tried?

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Brand-New-Nissan-13500-1N501-N1-Oil-Pump-Fit-For-SR16VE-SR20VE-P11-P12-N15/232957196990?hash=item363d54babe:g:w5YAAOSw0BtbwBZ 2
Thank you

[S13VE]

Hello everyone, I'm on the construction of my SR22VET, I need a new oil pump for my assembly, I discovered on ebay a cheap oil pump to 70 dollars. the price seems super low it makes you want to buy. But it's Chinese shit or someone here has already tried?

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Brand-New-Nissan-13500-1N501-N1-Oil-Pump-Fit-For-SR16VE-SR20VE-P11-P12-N15/232957196990?hash=item363d54babe:g:w5YAAOSw0BtbwBZ 2
Thank you

Don't you dare.

Buy it from a reputable seller, not worth taking a risk on. My genuine one was less than $300 AUD if that helps.

[PRT73]

ok i will try to find close to home, or if someone sells a new one in second hands

[brndck]

ok i will try to find close to home, or if someone sells a new one in second hands

buy this, then have the oil pump gears WPC treated

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-pump-p11-n14

[Rb26kouki]

what kit is everyone using for cam signal ?
i only see 2 aftermarket options taarks & mazworx which maz has 3 different options.

[RalliartRsX]

taarls has 3 different options, not mazworx. The trigger wheel is similar between taarks and maz.

The 2 other options are home signals for when you are utilizing a crank signal.

Which you use heavily depends on the granualirty you seek as well as simply down to the ECUs ability t properly interpret the signals without a falls register.

The most ideal situation is utilizing a ATI trigger wheel on the shell (you can order them from ATI mind you), a 12 tooth trigger wheel conjunction with a cam home signal for TDC. All shielded wire ofcourse.

Maz makes a complete crank/cam trigger kit. However it is a 60-2 wheel which a fair amount of the older ecus are unable to properly decode

Ross machine produces a similar crank trigger to Maz
Taarks produces a crank trigger which is bolted between the PS and AC drive portion of the ATI damper and with this, spacers the PS pulley out 10mm
Engineered to slide produces their/his own proprietary crank trigger solution
Another NZ company produces a crank trigger which is mounted behind the flywheel

Most modern day ecus are able to only utilize with cam trigger option without false reading and with out requiring a crank trigger ki

[PRT73]

Hello, happy new year to everyone !!! I was wondering, who has the most reliable sr20vet in the forum? to see a little

[brndck]

Hello, happy new year to everyone !!! I was wondering, who has the most reliable sr20vet in the forum? to see a little

hell do any of us even have a running one???
the most reliable one would probably be a bone stock one, still in a xtrail

what I really wanna know is what kind of refresh/teardown schedule is Gocha following
[YT]www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh8USRB9Pf4[YT]
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh8USRB9Pf4

http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/08/how-a-siberian-wildcard-shook-up-the-dmec/

[PRT73]

Gotcha seems to be driving well, who built his engine for him? in my opinion he does it every year ��

[RalliartRsX]

hell do any of us even have a running one???
the most reliable one would probably be a bone stock one, still in a xtrail

what I really wanna know is what kind of refresh/teardown schedule is Gocha following
[YT]www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh8USRB9Pf4[YT]
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh8USRB9Pf4

http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/08/how-a-siberian-wildcard-shook-up-the-dmec/

Yeha, speak for yourself.

I have put several hundred miles on mine just this past week along breaking it all in. I also took it to it's first track outing at the Refrigerator Bowl At Summit Point raceway in WVA. Car did well! Plenty of grip, temps kept in check and overall, no "funny" noises. The items that experienced "issues" were not related to the engine. The car also did several "hot laps" At summit main.

So far, the only issue experiences
1) Shifter popped out of the hard nylon bucket *easy fix)
2) PS system is getting over pressurized (easy fix. I havethe Taarks relocator)
3) One of the exhaust mount bolts fell out

Car drove on and off the trailer when I got home.

So far so good! This thing is a riot! I am now debating plopping in my N1 cams for good measure to keep the boost down and power sustained.

[brndck]

Yeha, speak for yourself.

So far, the only issue experiences
1) Shifter popped out of the hard nylon bucket *easy fix)
2) PS system is getting over pressurized (easy fix. I havethe Taarks relocator)
3) One of the exhaust mount bolts fell out

Car drove on and off the trailer when I got home.

So far so good! This thing is a riot! I am now debating plopping in my N1 cams for good measure to keep the boost down and power sustained.

lol i'm just teasing, mine has been sitting on an engine stand for a few years now.

how is your PS system getting overpressurized? why will relocating it with the Taarks kit fix that?

[RalliartRsX]

Get that shit running! :D

The reservoir is mounting too much in line with the PS pump (I have my VET mounted in a Z32 chassis, and my dumbass got rid of the PS hardline which would have made my life much easier...….ughhh). So the pump is unable to push the air pockets up to the reservoir where it can properly bleed. This in turns causes air pockets to be trapped in the system and end up pressurizing the system. For short runs it's good. However, when I went to the big boy track and did a number of laps, the issue became apparent :(. My bro thought it was a coolant leak, however on further inspection, the reservoir was bleeding out.
Atleast, that's what I think is happening.
That or the reservoir I have is shit hahahahah!

[S13VE]

what kit is everyone using for cam signal ?
i only see 2 aftermarket options taarks & mazworx which maz has 3 different options.

I just got the Taarks Cam signal kit, the one that replaces the CAS, no trigger wheel here.

If I find we see timing scatter in the upper rev's I'll add a trigger wheel to my balancer (ATI).

[S13VE]

Oh and yeah, my engine has barely progressed. Block has passed inspection, Crank is being crack tested as we speak.

Thinking I might put that engine in a new shell given how much oither stuff I need to upgrade to make use of it. In the mean time, I might refresh the old engine in the current car so I can do another season while I wait.

[RalliartRsX]

^^

Been following the Def model; just get seat time in whatever I can. I will slowly build it up over stages to get as much seat time as possible. A fast reliable car is a car that's not in a constant state of flux/build :D :D :D

[Def]

^^

Been following the Def model; just get seat time in whatever I can. I will slowly build it up over stages to get as much seat time as possible. A fast reliable car is a car that's not in a constant state of flux/build :D :D :D

Word - it's too easy to just "build" and never drive. It frequently turns into parts hoarding and never really working on the car because your goal line moves over time, usually farther out than any progress you've made. I'm guilty of it too, with trying to fit "one more thing" in while taking something apart, but that usually works better from an efficiency of work standpoint.


I say this with not having tracked the SW20 due to kids taking up all my time. I could go to the track, just tough to swing that much time in a row.

[S13VE]

Word - it's too easy to just "build" and never drive. It frequently turns into parts hoarding and never really working on the car because your goal line moves over time, usually farther out than any progress you've made. I'm guilty of it too, with trying to fit "one more thing" in while taking something apart, but that usually works better from an efficiency of work standpoint.


I say this with not having tracked the SW20 due to kids taking up all my time. I could go to the track, just tough to swing that much time in a row.

Amen.

So yeah, trying to figure out how much of a "refresh" the car gets because I can't keep tracking it as is, comp is starting to drop a little on one cylinder, breathing a bit more, oil surge more often in corners due to going faster. This is my old CA18.

Hard to not want to do a basic rebuild if I remove the sump for breathing/oil mods - maybe just a spool kit, throw a 2860 on it and aim for a few extra kW, as much as the 460s will allow lol Maybe 220rwkw?

Annnnnd I've dropped another few grand on it if I do that...

[PRT73]

Yeha, speak for yourself.

I have put several hundred miles on mine just this past week along breaking it all in. I also took it to it's first track outing at the Refrigerator Bowl At Summit Point raceway in WVA. Car did well! Plenty of grip, temps kept in check and overall, no "funny" noises. The items that experienced "issues" were not related to the engine. The car also did several "hot laps" At summit main.

So far, the only issue experiences
1) Shifter popped out of the hard nylon bucket *easy fix)
2) PS system is getting over pressurized (easy fix. I havethe Taarks relocator)
3) One of the exhaust mount bolts fell out

Car drove on and off the trailer when I got home.

So far so good! This thing is a riot! I am now debating plopping in my N1 cams for good measure to keep the boost down and power sustained.


Excellent !! How many whp do you have in this configuration? You use 87mm forging pistons on stock sleeve . Because I still wonder if I should put on shirts to have 550 whp with my 87mm hks stroker kit and VE p11 head

[RalliartRsX]

Errr, no idea! Discovered a litany of issues from the last dyno. One major one is the complete collapse of the CAT. EFR 7163 on 14-16psi. I have seen a dyno on a 2 liter VE with a EFR 7163 on the "gram" that made about 330 WHP on a mustang on the same boost (I have a similar setup). But I may be just shy of that as it has no timing in it. Just straight AF correction and that's it. Still on pump. Spins 305-30-18 ATR Sport II below 48 F in 3rd if I am not careful (JK41 6 speed).. However, they are absolute shit tires (compound sucks!) and I had much more grip on a set of 255 Zestino Grudge R (hard compound). So terrible comparison lol!

86.5 bottom end. Torque plate used for boring/honing. To answer your question; full send on 87mm HKS stroker kit. I do not forsee an issue at your power level. However, this is indeed the internet and YMMV

[peglio]

No relevance to the chat but I finally got my engine back and in the bay [emoji1591][emoji1] now just got to build the rest of the car ha ha
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/8786efceb89cf4e2eacd2075079bc5e3.jpg


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[RalliartRsX]

^^ dont forget I got dips on the mani if you sell it :F

[peglio]

^^ dont forget I got dips on the mani if you sell it :F



100% dude [emoji1591][emoji1591]


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[S13VE]

What inlet manifold is that?

Xcessive?

[peglio]

What inlet manifold is that?

Xcessive?



It’s a custom set up my engine builder made me [emoji1360]


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[S13VE]

Nice.

Who here is running drive by wire?

[peglio]

Thanks man . I will be , just working out what I’m going to run atm


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[PRT73]

86.5 bottom end. Torque plate used for boring/honing. To answer your question; full send on 87mm HKS stroker kit. I do not forsee an issue at your power level. However, this is indeed the internet and YMMV


great, i'm going to try i think in 87mm, with good egt control to be safe. For the bottom engine did you get ARP stud? because I see a lot of people installing ticket main cap or plazamaman girld, useful or not? for our power

[PRT73]

No relevance to the chat but I finally got my engine back and in the bay [emoji1591][emoji1] now just got to build the rest of the car ha ha
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/8786efceb89cf4e2eacd2075079bc5e3.jpg


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

I'm love the color vvl head

[peglio]

I'm love the color vvl head



Thanks man , it’s a custom candy teal I made with holographic teal and gold flake


Sent from Big Bear Kustoms Ltd

[kojiki88]

What engine mounts are you guys running? Specifically for the ones running the P12 CAS at the rear of the head? I have the ISR mounts and they make everything rattle, tolerable but it sucks. I was going to run the Nismo mounts but had read that it raises the motor enough where the CAS would not clear and hit the firewall lip.
Any input would be much appreciated.
Thank you

[RalliartRsX]

drift freaq mounts. He is on the forum

[immy21]

Nice.

Who here is running drive by wire?

I am on my DET

[LuckyX2]

I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).

This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.


The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.

Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).

The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.

Hey Def, I've been out of the 240sx game for a little due to life events but I'm finally planning on getting the whole VET/7163/CD009 build on the road again this spring. Just wondering where you wound up with yours since our builds are really similar.

My notes say I got 404whp at 20psi but I hadn't printed that dyno sheet so I don't recall the torque. Last pull I had printed out was 384whp/327ftlbs at 20psi. Spark started blowing out, things were getting real hot on the steady state dyno and I stopped my session. Have since installed the IGN1A coils but haven't made it back to the dyno. Torque was leveling off around 3900 and pretty flat till 7k (all I pushed it to with the blowouts).
Edit: Found an old post with the full numbers, 404whp and 338ftlbs at 20psi and 6500rpm. Clearly a lot more HP waiting to be had at the same boost just by revving it to 8K+.

[e1_griego]

He sold the car and is messing with an mr2 these days.

[LuckyX2]

Yeah, I just came back to the post to edit it haha, I saw turtle's post about the head failure and also found Def's MR2 build when I googled for "SR20VET 7163" hah.

Man, I've been out of it for too long, things have changed.

[RalliartRsX]

Well, NRR is officially dead. The domain has not been updated so this is the only place with any inkling of long standing knowledge for a VET swap

And even then, it pales in comparison to NRR :(

[turtl631]

Indeed, bummer. Everyone is hyped on K swaps now.

I broke the engine. Just got a rebuilt Mazworx head and block. Trying to get it together here soon. Just planning modest pump gas fun for now to hit a few track days. The car has been mostly broken since I bought it in 2017. Having 2 kids since then doesn't help. I just track my daily M3 and the S13 sits sad. Need to either use it or move it along. I'll toss up some updates once I make progress. Setup is basically the same as Def had.

[LuckyX2]

Oh no, NRR was a great resource :naw:
I take it nobody was able to do a dump of the site before it went down?

And K swaps in 240s? What world did I come back to haha.
Looking forward to your updates, I'll do the same.

[jr_ss]

Oh no, NRR was a great resource :naw:
I take it nobody was able to do a dump of the site before it went down?

And K swaps in 240s? What world did I come back to haha.
Looking forward to your updates, I'll do the same.

Lucky, what part of Philly are you in? I’m local and should have my car up here in the next couple of months. Is your car street legal? If so what steps did you have to take in order to get it inspected? I’m coming from Fla and there were no inspections or emissions down there.

[LuckyX2]

Lucky, what part of Philly are you in? I’m local and should have my car up here in the next couple of months. Is your car street legal? If so what steps did you have to take in order to get it inspected? I’m coming from Fla and there were no inspections or emissions down there.

Oh hey, welcome to Philly, I remember following your build back when you were in Florida, good stuff. I'm pretty much in the middle of the city, hence the difficulty working on the 240 lately. Finally got a place with a garage about 5 months ago but a 911SC resto project got that spot. The 240 is currently parked up in the Lehigh Valley but I'm hoping to have another garage in the next month or two to bring it down here. On top of all that, I street park my Miata too. I'm an idiot trying to live in the city and keep all these cars :duh:

Anyway, I've had it inspected before, just gotta find understanding shops. Been sitting a bit and may last one has since expired so I have to take care of that again. I mean, it can out brake and out steer 99% of cars on the road, it's very safe in that regard and meets the requirements for lighting and all that but I've had shops just look at it and say no. Being an 89 helps at least, it's emissions exempt.

I'll shoot you a DM.

[S13VE]

I am on my DET

What setup did you go with?

[RalliartRsX]

Another trackcross event complete. Car did well, however on long sweeping or high g left handers, the car just completely dies for 2-3 secs.....which cost me a top 6 easily. Car made is the almost 200 mile round trip plus how many track miles.

Going to drop in the N1s, keep the boost @ 14 on the 7163 and go have some fun.

[brndck]

Another trackcross event complete. Car did well, however on long sweeping or high g left handers, the car just completely dies for 2-3 secs.....which cost me a top 6 easily. Car made is the almost 200 mile round trip plus how many track miles.

Going to drop in the N1s, keep the boost @ 14 on the 7163 and go have some fun.

do you run a fuel swirl tank or like a holley fuelmat or anything?

[RalliartRsX]

So I was recommend on Holley HydraMat. I had the ECU failsafe for oil pressure as well. However, was unable to setup data log before or during the event (long story). So I am not sure if it's fuel starvation or ecu failsafe or both. Tough to glance down at the race dash when trying to hang on because #stockseat :( (a part of why I wasn't able to setup datalogging......yeah long story).

I am "guessing" fuel starvation as if it was an oil pressure issue, I figured it would occur on both right AND left handers (the custom oil pan baffle, designed off the old Jun drop in stock pan design, is symmetrical on both sides). We will see

https://image.nengun.com/catalogue/original/nengun-0992-02-jun-oil_pan_baffle_plate-7a6a5b8f.jpg

Will probably throw in the hydramat and see. Tough to test on the street however as there is no way in hell I am going to be full send on any on ramp :(

[S13VE]

Sounds like fuel starvation.

I doubt you're going fast enough in corners to cause oil surge unless you're on slicks?

I run a basic surge tank setup and that eliminated all fuel surge issues for me. IO was getting fuel starvation issues even with under 200rwkw and on semi's in my CA s13.

You can carry more fuel to get around it but the weight can make the car more rear biased.

[RalliartRsX]

^^ I am going to grab a holley hydramat. Thanks for reminding me!

So.........anyone else want to report on thier setup?? I see a bunch via insta, but build threads seem to be a thing of the past....

[S13VE]

My setup is currently being bead blasted before the build begins. Head, Block, Crank all passed inspections.

Builder was very happy with the block/crank, but I hunted around specifically for something that had a very minor failure (cracked ring land) and no bearing failure on a virgin block.

[RalliartRsX]

Nice!

I am awaiting to hear back from my cage builder as I am planning on getting a half caged installed.

Next; fixed the shifter popping out of the shifter cup, fuel pickup issue, diff swap to S15 diff, and clean up IM. But mostly drive!

[S13VE]

I did the s15 diff swap when I swapped subframes, made a big difference to rear end grip.

Very happy for the minimal $$.

I went a little custom and retained my CA crown and pinion and used just the helical centre.

[jr_ss]

^^ I am going to grab a holley hydramat. Thanks for reminding me!

So.........anyone else want to report on thier setup?? I see a bunch via insta, but build threads seem to be a thing of the past....

My build thread was systematically destroyed by Photobucket... On other news, the car is now located in Pa which I am stoked about. Time to get to work.

[turtl631]

I'm very slowly reassembling. Hoping to get it dyno tuned this spring sometime and see how 2.0/N1/7163 setup does.

[RalliartRsX]

^^ I hope to do the same. Turns out the AL fittings don't play well with PS fluid so I have all new PS lines and Steel fittings to fix.

I think I am on the Def train. The N1 may perform much better than internet/drag racing wisdom

[jr_ss]

^^ I hope to do the same. Turns out the AL fittings don't play well with PS fluid so I have all new PS lines and Steel fittings to fix.

I think I am on the Def train. The N1 may perform much better than internet/drag racing wisdom

Everything I’ve seen that compares the VE cams shows the true value of them. I’m looking forward to getting mine swapped over and re-dyno’d.

[RalliartRsX]

Jr. You are in Philly about 2 hours north of me! When and where are you planning to dyno?? I usually take my vehicle to JK tuning in Carlise. I have a roll bar and a few odds and ends planned for March in preparation for the first track day in April. At some point between now an then, I would like to make my way up to JK for a new tune with N1 cams, E85 and a boat load of boost and drivability and track day tune.

Let me know how your schedule shakes out. There is another SR Z32 (no VE however), I will also be planning to meet up with to lend him a hand in a few things

Cheers!

[S13VE]

Pics have started coming in from the builder.

This is after glass bead blasting.

Next step is final acid wash/pressure wash with bungs etc removed and we can start the build.

https://imgur.com/a/XlMRxX5

[PRT73]

Hello everybody . I'm looking for information. Who uses Brian crower valve springs BC1030 in their construction? I wonder if they are reliable for 8500 RPM ? . have offered me a new game at a good price

Thanks you

[jr_ss]

Hello everybody . I'm looking for information. Who uses Brian crower valve springs BC1030 in their construction? I wonder if they are reliable for 8500 RPM ? . have offered me a new game at a good price

Thanks you

I’d use Supertech over BC. Supertech has been know to use superior metal.

[PRT73]

I’d use Supertech over BC. Supertech has been know to use superior metal.


hello, thank you for your comment. I saw that Brian crower was manufactured by PAC racing. What do you think of kelford beehive springs?

[jr_ss]

hello, thank you for your comment. I saw that Brian crower was manufactured by PAC racing. What do you think of kelford beehive springs?

I’ve never used Kelford springs so I can’t comment on them. Honestly, I haven’t looked into springs in years. With that said, beehive springs are used in the Honda and Mitsubishi world prevalently with large success. Keep in mind, the lower spring rating of the Supertech springs is sufficient to prevent valve float in higher rpms while also minimizing unnecessary premature wear of valve train components.