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View Full Version : STUPID SHOP f-ed up my 300zx rotors HELP


ghostuss
06-07-2004, 10:03 AM
Hi everyone,
I ordered some 5 lug 300zx blank rotors from NOPI and wanted to get it redrilled into 4 lug. The shop that did my rotors didn't drill it right at first so I took it back to get it fixed up. After a 2nd touch up, the holes are TOO big now!! I don't think I will want to drill another 4 holes as I am already worried that too mean holes = a cracked rotor. Does anyone know what can I do in this situation? I am thinking either order some predrilled 4 lug 300zx rotors OR weld up the holes at a REAL machine shop and then redrill it? What is the my best bet and can this be a good idea? Oh also you guys think cross drilled rotors work any better than blank? I read it doesn't right?

msaskin
06-07-2004, 10:14 AM
Hi everyone,
I ordered some 5 lug 300zx blank rotors from NOPI and wanted to get it redrilled into 4 lug. The shop that did my rotors didn't drill it right at first so I took it back to get it fixed up. After a 2nd touch up, the holes are TOO big now!! I don't think I will want to drill another 4 holes as I am already worried that too mean holes = a cracked rotor. Does anyone know what can I do in this situation? I am thinking either order some predrilled 4 lug 300zx rotors OR weld up the holes at a REAL machine shop and then redrill it? What is the my best bet and can this be a good idea? Oh also you guys think cross drilled rotors work any better than blank? I read it doesn't right?

Order pre-drilled. Heavy Throttle sells them for $170/pair or something.

~matt

uiuc240
06-07-2004, 10:57 AM
the holes don't really matter. the load of the rotor sits on the hub's center bore anyway. the lugs are acting in tension to hold everything together. as long as they didn't do anything to the center bore (which i'm sure they didn't) it will be fine. it will still be hub-centric and it will still work smoothly.

Eric

ghostuss
06-07-2004, 11:51 AM
no like when I put the rotor on the hub, the rotor rotate a little bit, making it rattle. I talked to the mechanic at the shop, he said only the middle hole matters, but I am imaging that if I press on the brake, the force of inertica would cost the rotor to rotate forward and rattle. Also does anyone know if it will be safe if I just weld up all the holes and drill new ones? After all we are talking about brakes here, which leads to my life / my car.

Dream240
06-07-2004, 12:05 PM
the holes don't really matter. the load of the rotor sits on the hub's center bore anyway. the lugs are acting in tension to hold everything together. as long as they didn't do anything to the center bore (which i'm sure they didn't) it will be fine. it will still be hub-centric and it will still work smoothly.

Eric

Well here's what I've found with my 30mm front rotors. They aren't perfectly hub-centric. Basically, the rotor's center hole is a little bit bigger than the 240's hub diameter. If you've got play in the lug holes, you most likely will get a shimmy under braking. even though the rim is bolted on and you torque the lugs down to 85 psi, you'll probably still get a shimmy.

If you want I'm actually upgrading my front rotors to a cross-drilled slotted setup. My front rotors are practically brand new, about 2000 miles on them, and I have black rust protection paint on them that I will remove if you want. I'll sell them to you for 100 bucks. And yes they're pre-drilled for a 4-lug, I did it myself and they fit nice and snug, no shimmies at all.

I can send you pics soon, email me @ [email protected] if you're interested.

Later

ghostuss
06-07-2004, 12:28 PM
I got 26mm calipers. Oh also why are you upgrading to cross drilled and slotted application? If it's good idea I might as well get a new pair crossed drilled 4 lug for heavy throttle.

knightrider
06-07-2004, 12:38 PM
i would talk to the shop that you had them drilled at, you paid them money to drill them, they screwed it up, tried to fix it, and just ended up making it worse, i would make them buy you new rotors, at the very least, and then i would have them drilled correctly. its the same thing if you were to have your car serviced there, and they were supposed to fix a problem, if its not fixed, then they are required to complete the fix free of charge.

Dream240
06-07-2004, 12:57 PM
I got 26mm calipers. Oh also why are you upgrading to cross drilled and slotted application? If it's good idea I might as well get a new pair crossed drilled 4 lug for heavy throttle.

Well, I had CD/Slotted on my car before I did the upgrade, and I liked the initial bite I got from the rotors. And since I got such a good steal on the set I couldn't pass it up. I got all 4 rotors CD/slotted with zinc coating for 130.00 bucks!! I got them on ebay. Total cost was 151.00 with shipping. I got the whole set cause I'm planning a 300zx rear brake upgrade in the near future.

I'd say check out ebay first, maybe the shops on ebay will drill them for you or sell some already drilled? Worth a shot.

ghostuss
06-07-2004, 12:58 PM
Well do you know how do I make them do that? Like is there laws on this kind of issues that I can throw at them? After all I had no reciept or anything, I just went in there and asked if they can drill it and they said ok we will try and go ahead did it for $40 cash.

Dream240
06-07-2004, 01:16 PM
Well shit man with no receipt, you're fucked. You have nothing to back you up. They'll just tell you to take a hike.

Did they say that they could do it no problem or did they say that they're not liable for damaging them?

ghostuss
06-07-2004, 01:20 PM
No they said they not sure if this can be done. They didn't say something about they not liable from dmging them.

Dream240
06-07-2004, 01:36 PM
No they said they not sure if this can be done. They didn't say something about they not liable from dmging them.

Well you could ask them to work something out may be they'll compensate you like half of what they're worth. But to be honest most of the risk is on you. They'll probably point the finger back at you and say "sorry bud".

Dem's da breaks....

allmotorKA
06-07-2004, 01:44 PM
...Also does anyone know if it will be safe if I just weld up all the holes and drill new ones?...

I think welding would add to much heat to the rotor...might warp. Besides, then you would still have to machine the weld flush with the rotor "hat" on both sides.

ghostuss
06-07-2004, 01:58 PM
Well it won't hurt to try and get the money back. Like the $40 cash or something. I am probably gonna go ahead and order some new predrilled ones. Anyone got some recommendations? I called heavy throttle, they said it will take them 2 weeks to get the 26mm rotors. Damn I can't wait that long. I live in SF if some body know anywhere local I can get this predrilled or whatever let me know. I need some rotors :hyper: :rl:

orion::S14
06-07-2004, 10:07 PM
As someone above pointed out, as long as it's centered, the little bit of movement won't matter once the wheels are on and torqued. They'll hold the rotors in place just fine...no worries.

- Brian

Dream240
06-08-2004, 07:17 AM
Well it won't hurt to try and get the money back. Like the $40 cash or something. I am probably gonna go ahead and order some new predrilled ones. Anyone got some recommendations? I called heavy throttle, they said it will take them 2 weeks to get the 26mm rotors. Damn I can't wait that long. I live in SF if some body know anywhere local I can get this predrilled or whatever let me know. I need some rotors :hyper: :rl:

Well, definitely get the 40 bucks back. But what you could do try them on nd see if you even get a shimmy. I mean after all, every car is different. I've got a shimmy gremlin that keeps rearing it's ugly head. Oh well....give it a try.

uiuc240
06-08-2004, 07:22 AM
Well it won't hurt to try and get the money back. Like the $40 cash or something. I am probably gonna go ahead and order some new predrilled ones. Anyone got some recommendations? I called heavy throttle, they said it will take them 2 weeks to get the 26mm rotors. Damn I can't wait that long. I live in SF if some body know anywhere local I can get this predrilled or whatever let me know. I need some rotors :hyper: :rl:

As I said before, just put them on the car.

But if you really want new rotors, try Don Nimi at www.pdm-racing.com and see if he can get them to you sooner. You'll pay more, though.

Eric

RBS14
06-08-2004, 10:23 AM
even though the rim is bolted on and you torque the lugs down to 85 psi

psi........ haha. i'm surprised nobody caught this.

nothing personal man, but fyi torque is measured in foot pounds/pound feet, however you like to say it.

Dream240
06-08-2004, 11:38 AM
psi........ haha. i'm surprised nobody caught this.

nothing personal man, but fyi torque is measured in foot pounds/pound feet, however you like to say it.

Oh, duh. Sorry I wrote that early in the morning and I'm on Vicodin, so I'm a little off. Heh....have one on me.

ghostuss
06-08-2004, 02:43 PM
yea I am probably gonna go try them on first. I really HOPE this works cause I am really low on money. I just brought new exhaust and new front, rear sway bar, got into an accident and burnt my clutch so yea... Well so what is the torque spec again? is it 85? Or can it be torqued more? Well just gonna have it running for now and maybe until the end of the summer, I will go for some drill/sloted predrilled 4 lug from heavy throttle or ebay(should I get it from ebay?). Once again guys thx all of you for the help. I really appreciate it. Visit my xanga from time to time at www.xanga.com/dfansclub =) if you local give me an AIM so we can hangout together :wiggle: :blah:

uiuc240
06-08-2004, 02:48 PM
85 - 90 ft-lbs is all you need. more torque = warped rotors.

Eric

Dream240
06-08-2004, 03:51 PM
85 - 90 ft-lbs is all you need. more torque = warped rotors.

Eric

Actually the torque spec on all Nissans is supposed to be 72 pounds. But I think 85 is a better all around number. Yeah any higher than 85 is just too much! I just love the way some shops still use air guns to torque down the wheels. They just love hearing that air gun, makes them feel like they're in the pits at Daytona or something....buncha dorks. :)

Another probelm with over torque is stripping the studs. I had to break off on of my studs on my old accord cause this shop waaay over torqued it. Cost me 40 bucks to get another put in!!!! So be careful.

nlzmo400r
06-08-2004, 04:03 PM
you coulda changed a wheel stud in 1o minutes, they cost $1

Dream240
06-08-2004, 04:29 PM
Well I got the stud for like a buck but I didn't have the proper tools to get it mounted to the hub. I had to take it to a shop so they could mount it properly.

uiuc240
06-08-2004, 09:08 PM
Actually the torque spec on all Nissans is supposed to be 72 pounds. But I think 85 is a better all around number. Yeah any higher than 85 is just too much! I just love the way some shops still use air guns to torque down the wheels. They just love hearing that air gun, makes them feel like they're in the pits at Daytona or something....buncha dorks. :)


AAAAACTUALLY...air tools are not a problem if the shop knows what they are doing. In fact, have you ever seen them using reeeeeally long extensions to torque the wheels? Each of those extensions has a certain torque level. It's designed to flex so that only a certain amount of torque can be put on the lugs. However, if the shop doesn't use these, you could easily get like 200 ft-lbs on the lugs... :hammer:

Anyway...just pointing that out.

Eric

thx247
06-08-2004, 09:29 PM
Run the rotors, you'll be fine, the size of the hole is not critical enough to contribute to the rotor failing for your application.

ghostuss
06-09-2004, 01:27 AM
Hehe the shop that did my tires was really nice. They hand torqued my wheels =). The guy who swapped my tires even sprayed some tire clean/shiner on each tire before putting them on. You just have to get to know the ppl that's doing ur car. HEHE I always suck up to those ppl, after all You know you will get better service on ur car. :kiss:

Dream240
06-09-2004, 08:28 AM
AAAAACTUALLY...air tools are not a problem if the shop knows what they are doing. In fact, have you ever seen them using reeeeeally long extensions to torque the wheels? Each of those extensions has a certain torque level. It's designed to flex so that only a certain amount of torque can be put on the lugs. However, if the shop doesn't use these, you could easily get like 200 ft-lbs on the lugs... :hammer:

Anyway...just pointing that out.

Eric

Right I agree with you. But unfortunately there are too many mechanics out there that dont really take pride in their work. I've seen quite a few. And they just torque wheels without a care to the specs. They don't care cuase it's not their car. They're very sloppy and bang shit around. On my old rims I would always find a new chip on the paint from the guy hitting my rim with the air gun while he's working. Mostly around the lug holes. AARRGHH!! That's why I don't have anyone work on my car except me and my brother. The only thing I take my car in for is balancing and alignments obviously because I don't have those machines at home!!
That's why when I open my own service shop (within the next 5 years) I'm going to screen my employyes to find guys that really want to work on cars and take pride in their work. No half assing. GOD I hate that!!

dvdevo
06-09-2004, 01:54 PM
where did you get your tires mounted? and how much?