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ultimateirving
12-20-2013, 12:12 PM
EDIT: moving this information to page one,

Ok so i found out that the e pins do not wire straight accross to the I pins on my ignitor wiring. I took the chopped plugs and matched wire color to wire color. Ill post a chart with my finding hopefully help future noobs.


SO using this gentleman's wiring pinout, I am going to wire in a relay to provide 12v directly from the alternator. Then I made sure to match all my wires to each coil pack. Going off of the wire color

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/Domscoilharness_zpsb76b48b9.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/Domscoilharness_zpsb76b48b9.png.html)

and then wired the ignitor delete as such.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/srtoLS2ignitorwiring_zps416bdc32.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/srtoLS2ignitorwiring_zps416bdc32.png.html)

Fresh edit(09/25/2016) Went back and did some repairs to my wiring harness and I also corrected a mistake i made in the wiring, If you wire the ignitor like i did, then make sure to match the Coilpack harness to the picture below. Somewhere the wires must cross and i did not account for it in my original diagram.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/CoilpackPinout_zpszghs7txg.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/CoilpackPinout_zpszghs7txg.png.html)
This is a picture as though you were staring into the plug looking at the pins.

Using stock dwell settings on my rom tuned sr ecu to putter around, but for full boost you need to increase and adjsut the dwell.

I finally got it running and it sounds cherry. Time to drive!

Thanks to everyone for contributing..




I need some help with the wiring. My first attempt to install my LS2 coils were not successful but I fear its due to my error. The diagrams I have found on various google searches/forums are all outdated or deleted. I have constructed a harness using an existing SR coilpack harness .
I need some guidance with the wiring and have two basic questions.
What do I need to do with this ground?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/srignitor_zps2f60b6b6.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/srignitor_zps2f60b6b6.jpg.html)


And the LS2 coil pack harness has 2 ground wires, can I just ground one wire to the chassis and other to the engine?

Thank you.

ultimateirving
12-21-2013, 05:06 PM
If anyone has done this and can chime I would appreciate. All the threads I've read don't provide what I need

slow92
12-21-2013, 05:29 PM
Check this out, it might help you.
Ls1 coils onto your sr20 (http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/59995-ls1-coils-onto-your-sr20.html)

I have this conversion on my car but I did it so long ago that I can't remember how I wired everything up. Plus I have a haltech and at the time I got the wiring diagram and instructions from haltech's website.

ultimateirving
12-21-2013, 05:34 PM
LS2 Truck Coil Pack Swap for S2 RB25DET « Rad! 240sx (http://www.rad240sx.com/2011/10/ls2-truck-coil-pack-swap-for-s2-rb25det/)
found this just now with some different search terms

Gonna see if this helps and ill read urs too slow92.. thanks!

ultimateirving
12-21-2013, 07:49 PM
Check this out, it might help you.
Ls1 coils onto your sr20 (http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/59995-ls1-coils-onto-your-sr20.html)

I have this conversion on my car but I did it so long ago that I can't remember how I wired everything up. Plus I have a haltech and at the time I got the wiring diagram and instructions from haltech's website.

According to this write up the brown wire coming from the ls2 coilpack plug is a reference wire.
To what does these wires connect is my question??

Black240Ct
12-21-2013, 07:56 PM
I've grounded both ls grounds to the chassis. Different spots

Then the four signals from the ecu to the respective coils

ultimateirving
12-22-2013, 09:51 AM
I've grounded both ls grounds to the chassis. Different spots

Then the four signals from the ecu to the respective coils

Going to try basically this^^

I found a spare SR coilpack subharness i didnt realize i had(ty magic workbench) and so i cut the plug and rewired my harness to the SR plug.
Gonna test it out soon.

slow92
12-23-2013, 01:46 PM
I think I bypassed my original sr coilpack harness and wired each individual ls1 coil to each individual sr20 coilpack signal wire per cylinder. I think I wired one of the grounds from the ls1 coilpack harness to the original coilpack harness grounds and the other one I grounded to the chasis or motor. It is pretty straight forward and everything is wired directly into the engine harness. Everything worked flawlessly. In fact I was having spark issues when my sr was making 400whp at the upper rev limit but since the swap I had noticed a significant difference in the vehicle's acceleration across the power band.

ultimateirving
12-23-2013, 02:35 PM
I think I bypassed my original sr coilpack harness and wired each individual ls1 coil to each individual sr20 coilpack signal wire per cylinder. I think I wired one of the grounds from the ls1 coilpack harness to the original coilpack harness grounds and the other one I grounded to the chasis or motor. It is pretty straight forward and everything is wired directly into the engine harness. Everything worked flawlessly. In fact I was having spark issues when my sr was making 400whp at the upper rev limit but since the swap I had noticed a significant difference in the vehicle's acceleration across the power band.

Thank you for the input! I'm still battling my install which I never thought I had the issues I am.

Can you tell me What gap are you running? And which plugs. I just bought new ngk bkr7e and gapped at .030 I plan to test later today. Will report back any updates

slow92
12-23-2013, 05:50 PM
I had just ran the standard recommended gap. I didn't have any problems with spark blow out or anything like that with the ls1 coils.

ultimateirving
12-23-2013, 06:14 PM
So all plug wires resistance tested about the same I feel they are ok

I did have my wife crank the ign with the lights out and saw little sparks everywhere but from the spark plugs.
New question: does anyone know if the coilpack itself has to
Be grounded to anything?
For Example the two mounting holes have metal bushings as the liner. ( as seen here. Top right coil http://m.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1476055 )

blessedhellrider
12-23-2013, 06:18 PM
i do not believe a "truck ls2 " exist ...trucks are lm7"5.3"-,lq9"6.0"-,lr4"4.8" from what i know ..tell me if im wrong here.

i do know the truck coils have a different plug tho.:-/

VegasDrifterS13
12-23-2013, 06:43 PM
i do not believe a "truck ls2 " exist ...trucks are lm7"5.3"-,lq9"6.0"-,lr4"4.8" from what i know ..tell me if im wrong here.

i do know the truck coils have a different plug tho.:-/

LY6 is an Aluminum 6.0 Truck motor. L33 is an aluminum 5.3 truck motor. L92 is an Aluminum 6.2 truck motor.

ONLY LS2 in a "truck" is in the Silverado SS, and Trailblazer SS.

All 1999-2006 truck coils should be the same.

And the harnesses are different from truck Vs car.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

ultimateirving
12-23-2013, 07:18 PM
It's the same coil. I use ls2 for reference as people
Can relate. It's a 4 wire coil with a built in heat sink. The wiring is pretty straightforward

VegasDrifterS13
12-23-2013, 07:26 PM
It's the same coil. I use ls2 for reference as people
Can relate. It's a 4 wire coil with a built in heat sink. The wiring is pretty straightforward

Yes. Any Gen 3 or gen 4 coil on any truck or car is the same. 1997-2006 model year cars and 1999-2006 trucks. The 06-08 cars and truck coils are different and 08-12 are different.

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AsleepAltima
12-23-2013, 07:30 PM
I fixed the missing link on the sr20 forum. I didn't realize that it was gone. :(

I used Iridiums on my setup, gapped to .029 I believe. BKR 7's.

If I remember correctly, I may not have hooked the brown wire up to anything...

ultimateirving
12-23-2013, 07:42 PM
Props to asleepAltima for fixing the link on Ls1 coils onto your sr20 (http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/59995-ls1-coils-onto-your-sr20.html)

I think I confirmed my issue and the wiring order was off on 2 cyl.

VegasDrifterS13
12-23-2013, 07:55 PM
Is this swap done for any Voltage increase or just parts availability? I know the LS coils are 50,000V. What are the Sr20's ?

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ultimateirving
12-23-2013, 09:10 PM
Is this swap done for any Voltage increase or just parts availability? I know the LS coils are 50,000V. What are the Sr20's ?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Stronger spark with high boost and they are pretty easy 2 source. Sr ones can be tough to find on short notice

VegasDrifterS13
12-23-2013, 09:34 PM
Stronger spark with high boost and they are pretty easy 2 source. Sr ones can be tough to find on short notice

So you fab a bracket and run spark plug wires then huh?

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slow92
12-23-2013, 09:37 PM
Plus you get a coil pack per cylinder instead of one coil pack for all four.

VegasDrifterS13
12-23-2013, 10:10 PM
Plus you get a coil pack per cylinder instead of one coil pack for all four.

? SR20'S HAVE INDIVIDUAL PACKS I THOUGHT ? OR WHAT THE HELL ARE THOSE ON TOP OF MY PLUGS ?

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VATOCLOWN
12-23-2013, 10:23 PM
as far as the ground on the sr harness i just cut and taped it up and used the coil pack grounds and just did one to the head and the other to the chassis

slow92
12-23-2013, 10:37 PM
? SR20'S HAVE INDIVIDUAL PACKS I THOUGHT ? OR WHAT THE HELL ARE THOSE ON TOP OF MY PLUGS ?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Sorry I meant one igniter per cylinder. Thanks for correcting me.

VegasDrifterS13
12-23-2013, 10:49 PM
Sorry I meant one igniter per cylinder. Thanks for correcting me.

No worries. Sounds straightforward. I might do this since I run 16psi. You guys are gettin better acceleration results due to a better ignition/ more thorough burn FYI. This is why Old school Hot rods Benefit Majorly when MSD or similar Ign systems are Installed. I never even searched for better coils for my SR. :sly: shame on me.

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ultimateirving
12-24-2013, 09:07 AM
No worries. Sounds straightforward. I might do this since I run 16psi. You guys are gettin better acceleration results due to a better ignition/ more thorough burn FYI. This is why Old school Hot rods Benefit Majorly when MSD or similar Ign systems are Installed. I never even searched for better coils for my SR. :sly: shame on me.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Im hoping to be pleasantly surprised once i figure out wtf is going on.
I reviewed my subharness and switched the ground location. Didnt get a chance to try and start it as it was too late last night and my car is too loud.

Ill probably be working on it christmas day. Give my self a running car as a present

VegasDrifterS13
12-24-2013, 09:14 AM
Im hoping to be pleasantly surprised once i figure out wtf is going on.
I reviewed my subharness and switched the ground location. Didnt get a chance to try and start it as it was too late last night and my car is too loud.

Ill probably be working on it christmas day. Give my self a running car as a present

Lol. Merry Christmas.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

slow92
12-24-2013, 02:02 PM
Just so you know, you are not using the factory sr20 igniter anymore. I re-read your original post and you talked about wiring straight across. When you use the ls2 coilpacks you delete the factory sr20 igniter and wire the coilpacks directly to the ignition signal wires per cylinder from the ecu. This may be your problem.

Like I said I wired my coil packs signal wire directly into the main engine harness and bypassed the sr20 ignition sub-harness because you no longer have any need for it. This way the ecu controls the spark. Plus you have to have an aftermarket standalone ecu where you can change the dwell settings for the ignition system for the ls2 coils to work correctly.

slow92
12-24-2013, 02:09 PM
Here are some diagrams that show you which pin on the ls1 coil packs get wired to what. The first link is to haltech and this is the diagram I used when doing my swap. It worked flawlessly and everything went smooth and the car started up on the first try using this diagram and using the suggested dwell settings for my ecu.

http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/LS1-COIL-CONNECTOR.pdf

http://www.rx7club.com/attachments/haltech-forum-62/242675d1181718575-wiring-up-ls1-coils-e11-questions-ls1%2520coil%2520wiring-jpg

http://www.rx7club.com/attachments/haltech-forum-62/242674d1181718575-wiring-up-ls1-coils-e11-questions-ls1coil-jpg

ultimateirving
12-24-2013, 02:54 PM
Wow thanks for the input.
I cut both plugs off of the wiring that goes to the ignitor and wired them straight across. As in E1-I1 and so forth. Is that acceptable? Then I used a plug cut from an sr coilpack sub harness and wired my ls2 coils to that plug. I was careful to match each cylinder to each wire. I also wired all 4 coils to 12v that's provided in the clip too.

And I have read in a few other posts that the ls2 coils will I fact work with stock sr Ecu dwell settings.

slow92
12-24-2013, 03:31 PM
That could work, but I hardwired all of my wires to the plugs connected to the ls1 coil packs. This completely bypassed the ignition igniter subharness all together. But I am sure there is more than one way to skin a cat. I didn't know that the sr ecu would power the ls1 coilpacks but I haven't done much research on it since I have used a standalone computer since I did the sr swap.

Re-check your wiring and make sure your connections are solid. It could be the fact that the plugs you are trying to use are messing things up. Everything I have read and everyone I have seen do this swap has wired their coilpacks the same way I did.

ultimateirving
12-24-2013, 04:16 PM
So I ran a test and I am getting spark from all 4 now. So in regards to the firing order anyone confirm for me? From what I've searched on google I haven't found a source I trust.
I found this and if it's legit I think I'm off then
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/313089-redtop-sr20-haltech-platinum-sport1000-no-start.html

codyace
12-25-2013, 09:04 PM
dont' worry about that ground

I didn't wire mine directly across either as each wire corresponds with a different cylinder that. I found out which input wire corresponded to each signal (1-4) and went from there. Then when the wires hit the main coilpack plug (5 wires, one for each pack and 12v power) I took the corresponding plug and wired it in so it become a disconnect, yet wires so it proved 12v to each back and then the 5v to each signal wire. Super easy stuff there.

ultimateirving
12-26-2013, 09:02 AM
dont' worry about that ground

I didn't wire mine directly across either as each wire corresponds with a different cylinder that. I found out which input wire corresponded to each signal (1-4) and went from there. Then when the wires hit the main coilpack plug (5 wires, one for each pack and 12v power) I took the corresponding plug and wired it in so it become a disconnect, yet wires so it proved 12v to each back and then the 5v to each signal wire. Super easy stuff there.

Thanks for the input I'm still stumped on this.
Are you saying at e1 isn't cyl 1 and so forth?

I took video of the plug wires sparking to the head to see what my firin order was and I pretty sure it's firing 1423 which isn't right from all the threads I've read. So I really am leaning towards incorrect wiring of the ignitor delete.

TheRealSy90
12-26-2013, 09:18 AM
Every thread I've seen has said to delete the igniter by wiring straight across the plugs... Why can't someone just make a pin out and diagram for going to truck coils that actually works...


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ultimateirving
12-26-2013, 09:22 AM
Every thread I've seen has said to delete the igniter by wiring straight across the plugs... Why can't someone just make a pin out and diagram for going to truck coils that actually works...


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There was one or two floating around i feel like ive seen in the past. but none of those threads have the pictures available any longer.

I just got thru studying the ecu pinout for an s13 sr, and i have copied the wire color and ignition signal for each cylinder. Stuck at work today so after i get off ill match it up and make sure the wiring isnt funky at the ignitor delete

codyace
12-26-2013, 10:26 AM
Maybe I'll spend some time over the holiday here and finally do one. I knot he truck packs are different from the regular ones but I have all the wire outs from the MS stuff we use on the sloppymechanics cars.

ultimateirving
12-26-2013, 07:03 PM
Ok so i found out that the e pins do not wire straight accross to the I pins on my ignitor wiring. I took the chopped plugs and matched wire color to wire color. Ill post a chart with my finding hopefully help future noobs.


SO using this gentleman's wiring pinout, I am going to wire in a relay to provide 12v directly from the alternator. Then I made sure to match all my wires to each coil pack. Going off of the wire color

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/Domscoilharness_zpsb76b48b9.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/Domscoilharness_zpsb76b48b9.png.html)

and then wired the ignitor delete as such.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/srtoLS2ignitorwiring_zps416bdc32.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/srtoLS2ignitorwiring_zps416bdc32.png.html)

Ok so i have edited this post. THe wiring above is the perfect way to wire the ls2 coilpacks. Match each color that is listed with each cylinder and it will work! Using stock dwell settings on my rom tuned sr ecu. No adjustments have been made to dwell.

I finally got it running and it sounds cherry. Time to drive!

Thanks to everyone for contributing..

richmond82
12-26-2013, 08:57 PM
Wow thanks for the input.
I cut both plugs off of the wiring that goes to the ignitor and wired them straight across. As in E1-I1 and so forth. Is that acceptable? Then I used a plug cut from an sr coilpack sub harness and wired my ls2 coils to that plug. I was careful to match each cylinder to each wire. I also wired all 4 coils to 12v that's provided in the clip too.

And I have read in a few other posts that the ls2 coils will I fact work with stock sr Ecu dwell settings.

just reading this thread, some good info. I am running LS2 Coils with Magnecor LS to SR wires and using a Haltech Platinum Pro for my S15 SR. I did have to change the dwell times for these coils. Hope you get up and running soon.

BTW Yury at Wiring Specialties incorporated the LS2 coils into the harness he built for me. Maybe if all else fails email those guys. Tell em Drake referred you as they are sponsoring my S14.5

ultimateirving
12-27-2013, 10:05 PM
just reading this thread, some good info. I am running LS2 Coils with Magnecor LS to SR wires and using a Haltech Platinum Pro for my S15 SR. I did have to change the dwell times for these coils. Hope you get up and running soon.

BTW Yury at Wiring Specialties incorporated the LS2 coils into the harness he built for me. Maybe if all else fails email those guys. Tell em Drake referred you as they are sponsoring my S14.5

thank you for the reply. I am banging my head on the wall...
Still not sure why its not starting for me, Best i had it was idling on 2cylinders and backfiring like crazy.

Im gonna take my time and go back thru everything and also try a different set of plug wires. Got the 4 i have for a 6pack of coors light and i dunno if they are burnt out or what(they do test within spec for resitance).
Im feeling either something is shorting out in my wiring/ignition coils i have are not all 100% functional/ or the plug wires are shot.

From all my research this was supposed to be practically wire and play.

At least i have some delicious Jameson to keep me happy

TheRealSy90
12-27-2013, 10:15 PM
They should work perfectly fine on a stock Ecu without adjusting the dwell also.


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codyace
12-30-2013, 06:57 PM
They do work, but the dwell should be increased for those running higher boost.

With that said Magnecor (who I have wires from) make a nice set, just be prepared to disassemble them when you ever change the plugs to 'recrimp' the wire back into the metal part. I've had 3 come apart on me now when taking them off at different times. Never again! I bought a spare though just in case and put it in my car tool box. Nice stuff, just maybe not the best construction depending on who was working that day.

ultimateirving
12-30-2013, 08:14 PM
They do work, but the dwell should be increased for those running higher boost.

With that said Magnecor (who I have wires from) make a nice set, just be prepared to disassemble them when you ever change the plugs to 'recrimp' the wire back into the metal part. I've had 3 come apart on me now when taking them off at different times. Never again! I bought a spare though just in case and put it in my car tool box. Nice stuff, just maybe not the best construction depending on who was working that day.

Ya know i got some second hand plug wires from a camaro or
Something and they wok pretty well. I've also consider the plug wires form the srt4 as they are about perfect length and designed for deep plugs

Pic of the stock ls plug wires. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/95935E35-C733-4160-9773-F6CD025E31EC_zpstmrhnreh.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/95935E35-C733-4160-9773-F6CD025E31EC_zpstmrhnreh.jpg.html)

ultimateirving
12-31-2013, 09:47 AM
Anyone else running these coils get Ecu code 21?

I found one other thread that said they had the code but no issue with their ignition system and the code is believed to be a side effect of bypassing the ignitor.

codyace
01-01-2014, 12:12 AM
As soon as you negate that CAS you'll get that code


I have my packs located behind the passenger side strut tower so they had to be custom. The factory boot ends were too deep/long for me to trust.

ultimateirving
01-02-2014, 03:47 PM
As soon as you negate that CAS you'll get that code


I have my packs located behind the passenger side strut tower so they had to be custom. The factory boot ends were too deep/long for me to trust.

Must have been a good night. Don't drink and post ;)


Jk codyace

AsleepAltima
01-09-2014, 11:30 AM
Got it running yet?

ultimateirving
01-09-2014, 12:59 PM
Got it running yet?

Yes it runs and drives, but not optimally yet. I am feeling out any little kinks or hiccups but I need a few things still to make sure that i can run full boost again.

quickdiversion
01-09-2014, 01:20 PM
I run these coils on my sr20det all day everyday. They have completely different dwell and voltages settings and you can not run them properly without an aftermarket or chipped ecu. The values need to be changed. I run them on a power fc no issues. I can give you the values for he power fc to make them run if you have that ecu.

Here is my setup.

I used the 5 pin connector on the sr hardness for the signal and to run the coil to ecu grounds, than ran the secondary grounds to earth. The advantage of the coils is to run direct 12v to the coils. You do not power the 120mj coils off the ecu...

codyace
01-09-2014, 02:38 PM
Must have been a good night. Don't drink and post ;)


Jk codyace

LOL! I was actually the D/D that night, every one in a while it's my turn lol! But yea, throw the CAS out, i'm sure she'll run good hahaha! j/k!

I run these coils on my sr20det all day everyday. They have completely different dwell and voltages settings and you can not run them properly without an aftermarket or chipped ecu. The values need to be changed. I run them on a power fc no issues. I can give you the values for he power fc to make them run if you have that ecu.

Here is my setup.

I used the 5 pin connector on the sr hardness for the signal and to run the coil to ecu grounds, than ran the secondary grounds to earth. The advantage of the coils is to run direct 12v to the coils. You do not power the 120mj coils off the ecu...

I'm going to agree with this more and more as if you run higher boost the dwell needs to get increased to the 4.5 5 m/s area. Even at start up I think it could use a little more too.

quickdiversion
01-09-2014, 02:51 PM
Not only is the dwell very important, but these coils need almost double the dwell at every interval, the power drain ad battery voltages are much different. They require greater offsets of juice depending what your system voltage is.

My system currently runs between 14.3 at idle and 15.1 volts at WOT. So the offsets for these coils is much greater on that voltage, as well as a plain 12v.

The most information i found of these coils are the celica guys that run them because their stock coils were crap. They have huge write ups on these articles.

I was getting spark blow out at 13 psi with my hx35 at half throttle around 4k rpm. With these configured. I have never gotten such blow out even running larger gaps.

(caution) Do not run ebay ls2 truck coils.
They look like a great deal. I blew 2 of these coils on the high way within a week, each time putting me at 3 cylinders.

I would recommend keeping an extra coil in the car till you know you have good genuine coils.

I warrantied all my ebay coils at autozone for legit ac delcos ;)

ultimateirving
01-09-2014, 09:47 PM
Appreciate the advice, thank you. i currently power the coils of the same 12v wire thats in the coilpack harness.

Is what your'e getting at i need to run a switched dedicated 12v?
i had my tuner send me an updated tune for ls2 coils, with proper dwell settings.
My coils came off an lq9, silverado.
Also i streched a plug wire, and i need a new one too...
Not only is the dwell very important, but these coils need almost double the dwell at every interval, the power drain ad battery voltages are much different. They require greater offsets of juice depending what your system voltage is.

My system currently runs between 14.3 at idle and 15.1 volts at WOT. So the offsets for these coils is much greater on that voltage, as well as a plain 12v.

The most information i found of these coils are the celica guys that run them because their stock coils were crap. They have huge write ups on these articles.

I was getting spark blow out at 13 psi with my hx35 at half throttle around 4k rpm. With these configured. I have never gotten such blow out even running larger gaps.

(caution) Do not run ebay ls2 truck coils.
They look like a great deal. I blew 2 of these coils on the high way within a week, each time putting me at 3 cylinders.

I would recommend keeping an extra coil in the car till you know you have good genuine coils.

I warrantied all my ebay coils at autozone for legit ac delcos ;)

quickdiversion
01-10-2014, 11:53 AM
Appreciate the advice, thank you. i currently power the coils of the same 12v wire thats in the coilpack harness.

Is what your'e getting at i need to run a switched dedicated 12v?
i had my tuner send me an updated tune for ls2 coils, with proper dwell settings.
My coils came off an lq9, silverado.
Also i streched a plug wire, and i need a new one too...


You run the risk of ruining your ecu powering these coils off of it. They are almost 4x more power, that means they will draw alot more power from the ecu.

The reason for running these coils is because they have built in ignitors and you can power them directly through a switched relay. I built my own stand alone circuit, just like I did my fuel pump.

There are ls2 coils and ls2 truck coils, LS2 truck coils are the ones with the silver heat sinks on the back, the regular LS2 coils do not have them. All the truck ones are the same ratings. Mine were parts listed as from a hummer. same thing.

if you are running high boost or load and you are pumping these coils and they are powered off of your ecu, you can short it out by draining to much power across it.

VegasDrifterS13
01-10-2014, 12:19 PM
Damn.... Lol. Lots of Good Info. Im still not convinced to do this swap yet.... Sounds like a PIA to Get it Perfect.

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quickdiversion
01-10-2014, 01:22 PM
the setup is easy to build. I ordered gm style connectors for it cause I wanted it clean and able to be removed with 1 plug and not deal with random wires to put on or take off.

the settings are not really something that you can figure out by testing them, they are all linear. The only tricky part is the mathematical equations for finding the values to use to input them into the power fc, cause everything needs to be converted for that system.

AsleepAltima
01-11-2014, 11:28 PM
Yeah it's not a hard swap at all. Took me a couple hours total, maybe.

codyace
01-12-2014, 09:46 AM
if you are running high boost or load and you are pumping these coils and they are powered off of your ecu, you can short it out by draining to much power across it.

Now this I'm curious about, as these are only triggered via the 5v signal from the ECU, which only controls (triggers) the coils to fire. I'm unsure how running the coils would damage the ECU in that regard?

I know most of us are taking the 12v source from original coilpack power as well, which is constant. I wasn't aware that that 12v source was ECU controled, I traced it to come out via relay...


Either way I'm curious now, as either I've got it wrong/or I'm confused based upon this...I've had these on the car for years now, many many track miles, and no real issue aside from spark blowing out a little uptop with very high boost.

ultimateirving
01-18-2014, 01:43 PM
Now this I'm curious about, as these are only triggered via the 5v signal from the ECU, which only controls (triggers) the coils to fire. I'm unsure how running the coils would damage the ECU in that regard?

I know most of us are taking the 12v source from original coilpack power as well, which is constant. I wasn't aware that that 12v source was ECU controled, I traced it to come out via relay...


Either way I'm curious now, as either I've got it wrong/or I'm confused based upon this...I've had these on the car for years now, many many track miles, and no real issue aside from spark blowing out a little uptop with very high boost.

So I wired in a relay with power directly from the alternator. Fused and everything. Should be very powerful 12v source now. I also have be whole intake off so I'm going to try and tidy up some wiring and lines while it's apart. I will report back once it's together again.

richmond82
02-22-2014, 09:10 AM
Let us know how it goes. Mine has had no issues at all. Just had our first track day on the new build and its a monster... Havent had any issues with Coils. I also use a Haltech Plat Pro S15 to control everything so changing values is very easy. I have the dwell times etc if needed

ultimateirving
02-22-2014, 11:03 AM
So im still having issues with these coils over 15psi. I was running 19psi on the stock coil packs. I ordered some iridium plugs to swap out and try instead of the coppers. Also i wanted to post my coil pack part numbers are 12570616 - h6t55271zc, which seems to be from an L99 if anyone has any input feel free.

Lastly, Are the dwell settings the same for all these types of coils ? My research has led me to believe they are the same. but if my issues are any indication of a problem with the coils i can try to locate a different set.

soundboy
02-22-2014, 08:20 PM
Dwell is 5.

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AsleepAltima
02-24-2014, 09:22 PM
So im still having issues with these coils over 15psi. I was running 19psi on the stock coil packs. I ordered some iridium plugs to swap out and try instead of the coppers. Also i wanted to post my coil pack part numbers are 12570616 - h6t55271zc, which seems to be from an L99 if anyone has any input feel free.

Lastly, Are the dwell settings the same for all these types of coils ? My research has led me to believe they are the same. but if my issues are any indication of a problem with the coils i can try to locate a different set.

That's odd... boost leaks?
I was running 22+ on my LS coils...

ultimateirving
02-24-2014, 10:23 PM
That's odd... boost leaks?
I was running 22+ on my LS coils...

Do you remember what gap and what type if plugs you used.


And it could be a boost leak wrecking my world but not likely. Also my tester is at my homies house for the time being.

Slims
02-24-2014, 10:35 PM
Not going through all the post, but im wondering how your going to wire this in? unless you just do it as a batch fire type setup off the stock ecm. If these are the LS2 truck coils (round) dont forget to adjust youre gap. LS1s put out about 40,000 units, the trucks put out somewhere around 130,000! I think its about .25 once these are in. I know these things are sensitive as well. Wiring them up wrong and trying to fire it up can fry these things within the first or second attempt It takes to start it. Thats a paint in the but to figure out when you think they are new. If all old informataion, carry on.

AsleepAltima
02-25-2014, 10:11 AM
Do you remember what gap and what type if plugs you used.


And it could be a boost leak wrecking my world but not likely. Also my tester is at my homies house for the time being.

I used ngk iridiums bkr7's gapped to .029 iirc

ultimateirving
02-25-2014, 05:41 PM
I used ngk iridiums bkr7's gapped to .029 iirc
Thank you!! The same ones I ordered apparently.

New plugs arrived today, ngk 2667. Left at the factory Gap of .029.
Car runs so much better. Boosted up to 19.5 psi and she didn't miss a beat.
Gotta fix this stupid coolant leak from the firewall connection and it's in such a shitty spot I'm not looking forward to it.

Tldr: coils work, car runs, iridium>copper for ls coils

AsleepAltima
02-25-2014, 08:53 PM
Thank you!! The same ones I ordered apparently.

New plugs arrived today, ngk 2667. Left at the factory Gap of .029.
Car runs so much better. Boosted up to 19.5 psi and she didn't miss a beat.
Gotta fix this stupid coolant leak from the firewall connection and it's in such a shitty spot I'm not looking forward to it.

Tldr: coils work, car runs, iridium>copper for ls coils
That's awesome and good to hear!

BTAs13
04-06-2015, 08:37 AM
Sorry to bring this back a year later. But I'm currently doing the same thing and have a few questions. The small black wire that is on the grey connector for your factory coil packs harness . What did you do with that wire? And also the brown wire located on the coil pack connector? Did you end up just grounding this to the chassis along and the black wire to the engine?

ultimateirving
04-06-2015, 01:06 PM
Sorry to bring this back a year later. But I'm currently doing the same thing and have a few questions. The small black wire that is on the grey connector for your factory coil packs harness . What did you do with that wire? And also the brown wire located on the coil pack connector? Did you end up just grounding this to the chassis along and the black wire to the engine?

No problem, i troll the forums daily and saw a reply.
Just went out and looked at my harness, the coil pack connector has a small black wire that is not used, it is cut and floating, not connected to anything.

There are 2 grounds on the LS coil pack and i have them both grounded separately(not sure that it matters) one is grounded to the intake manifold, where a few grounds meet, The other is grounded by itself to the chassis firewall. i dontremember which is which without getting a multimeter out

BTAs13
04-06-2015, 07:44 PM
ok ill give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Has anyone tried this on a stock ecu? i have a rs enthalpy tuned ecu but im not set up for this coil pack swapped?

ultimateirving
04-06-2015, 08:02 PM
ok ill give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Has anyone tried this on a stock ecu? i have a rs enthalpy tuned ecu but im not set up for this coil pack swapped?

It will run although it's not optimal. You can have the stock ecu retuned to increase dwell if you tell enthalpy. Otherwise you can run them on the stock settings til then.
And I ran into issues using copper plugs, switching to iridium helped immensely

Kennybhybrid
07-12-2015, 01:11 AM
So which diagram do we use?

ultimateirving
07-13-2015, 02:49 PM
So which diagram do we use?

Page two had the wiring diagrams that ended up working properly.

ultimateirving
09-26-2016, 11:12 AM
Updated some crap in the first thread. I made a mistake initially and cross a wire somewhere down the line, I am assuming at the ignitor, however I have since come with a solution and posted a new picture in the first post.

ultimateirving
09-29-2016, 02:43 PM
After being down for months, i rewired the harness and fixed a coolant leak from the CTS housing. She is running as good as ever. Using coilpacks from a 2500 gm truck, i think it was a 2001-2006's suburban from the junkyard...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/240sx%20sr20det/824D76B3-5B9D-4539-8831-67172425E01F_zpskkinxyzn.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/240sx%20sr20det/824D76B3-5B9D-4539-8831-67172425E01F_zpskkinxyzn.jpg.html)

LoSt180
09-30-2016, 09:06 AM
The wires do indeed wire straight across at the ignitor. You wired the coil pack sub-harness using the wire colors at the ecu, instead of going by pin position at the connector. For some stupid reason the wire colors at the ecu are not the same as the colors in the sub-harness, thanks Nissan. That's where your initial problem came from, it's kind of confusing, I'll give you that. But that's why you had to change the sub-harness pin wiring.

A simpler way would be to wire straight across the ignitor (or plug in a bypass, basically the same thing), then cut off the connectors on the coilpack sub-harness and splice in a connector for the LS, or whatever other coilpack you're using (VAG, S15, Z33, etc).

If looking at the end of the connector (terminal side) it goes:
S13/S14 - [GND]-[12V]-[SIG]

If you have a wiring specialties coil harness, the colors are: Ground - Purple/black stripe; 12V - Green; Signal for cylinder #1 is black, 2,3,4 are pink wires. Not sure why #1 is black, probably for backward compatibility with the S13 check circuit, but I bet people confuse it for a ground all the time. The coilpack ground connects to the back of the head, it doesn't go back through the harness plug.