PDA

View Full Version : Build for Drift beginners?


zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 02:41 PM
my name is Jean and i am trying to get in the drifting scene and i have just started saving up..i think i got 2k for now and i plan to raise it up to 5k and i am looking for a 240sx so that i could turn it into a drift machine..any ideas? suggestions? sites?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

new2sr20
11-01-2013, 03:03 PM
Ill be nice, which most on here wont be, trust me.

Try dealerships, ebay, auctions, autotrader, craigslist, local newspaper.

if its something ur gonna beat up on, just find something with as little as rust as possible that runs since ur probably gonna hit shit with it when drifting.

xoxide
11-01-2013, 03:11 PM
Find a stock 240 on craigslist. Buy the biggest bodykit you can, a fake bride seat, some emusa coilovers, and weld your diff (pinion to spool is usually the best way to do it)...

Thats pretty much the basis to every professional built drift car.

racepar1
11-01-2013, 03:23 PM
Lots of stickers and the car has to be a TOTAL piece of shit. Preferrably it should leak oil uncontrollably, smoke, cut-out randomly, and have wires hanging all over the place. When in doubt with wiring use the house style twist-connectors, those are rad for drifting. Also every single piece of bodywork MUST be held on with zip-ties. If not your ride will never be "drift ready"...

:picardfp:

badass8
11-01-2013, 03:27 PM
I started with a s13 coupe with KYB lower springs bought it for $2100 with a rebuilt KA24DE, still runs like a champ. Starting stock is the best way to go so you actually learn how your car handles. Stock as in go to your first event with just that. No welded diff, not even lower springs like I had. Just simply learn your vehicle. Then after you have learned your vehicle go for a stiffer suspension, stiffer the better for drifting, my next upgrade for the drift car was PBM coilovers(love them, stiff as hell) and weld the diff. Oh and I purchased a Koyo Radiator because I found my stock KA overheating at the first event. Now it runs cold on the freeways since I don't have the $$ to tow my car out, and it runs perfect at the events. I am no professional at drifting yet I am going to my 4th drift event this month with the following upgrade: PBM coilovers, Tein Inner Tie Rods, SPL Outer Tie Rods, just replaced steering rack bushings, modded stock s13 knuckles (more angle), Sparco Racing Seat, and a NRG HUB, NRG QR, and Nardi steering wheel (so the wheel sits closer to me).

I hope this gives you a little idea of what to do.

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 07:43 PM
Ill be nice, which most on here wont be, trust me.

Try dealerships, ebay, auctions, autotrader, craigslist, local newspaper.

if its something ur gonna beat up on, just find something with as little as rust as possible that runs since ur probably gonna hit shit with it when drifting.

hey i appreciate it man and yeah im definitely gonna beat on it..also, i was keeping track of the 240s in craigslist and i found a couple of them there..they got rolling shells, stocks and KAs from 2.5k to 6k..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 07:45 PM
Find a stock 240 on craigslist. Buy the biggest bodykit you can, a fake bride seat, some emusa coilovers, and weld your diff (pinion to spool is usually the best way to do it)...

Thats pretty much the basis to every professional built drift car.

lol that fake bride seats kind of cracked me up..anyway that emusa coilovers are they any good? cuz ive never heard of them..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 07:46 PM
Lots of stickers and the car has to be a TOTAL piece of shit. Preferrably it should leak oil uncontrollably, smoke, cut-out randomly, and have wires hanging all over the place. When in doubt with wiring use the house style twist-connectors, those are rad for drifting. Also every single piece of bodywork MUST be held on with zip-ties. If not your ride will never be "drift ready"...

:picardfp:

tnx for the advice i guess


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 07:54 PM
I started with a s13 coupe with KYB lower springs bought it for $2100 with a rebuilt KA24DE, still runs like a champ. Starting stock is the best way to go so you actually learn how your car handles. Stock as in go to your first event with just that. No welded diff, not even lower springs like I had. Just simply learn your vehicle. Then after you have learned your vehicle go for a stiffer suspension, stiffer the better for drifting, my next upgrade for the drift car was PBM coilovers(love them, stiff as hell) and weld the diff. Oh and I purchased a Koyo Radiator because I found my stock KA overheating at the first event. Now it runs cold on the freeways since I don't have the $$ to tow my car out, and it runs perfect at the events. I am no professional at drifting yet I am going to my 4th drift event this month with the following upgrade: PBM coilovers, Tein Inner Tie Rods, SPL Outer Tie Rods, just replaced steering rack bushings, modded stock s13 knuckles (more angle), Sparco Racing Seat, and a NRG HUB, NRG QR, and Nardi steering wheel (so the wheel sits closer to me).

I hope this gives you a little idea of what to do.

good luck on your upcoming event dude and yeah it definitely helps man..i work at autozone and im familiar with that KYB coils also that PBM is it any good? and what about differentials? where can i get good ones?

this is "kind of" my wishlist:
mishimoto radiator
enkei rims
megan coils
greddy exhaust
KN intake
turbonetics
sparco seats


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zo0d
11-01-2013, 08:13 PM
I heard 240s are not good for drifting.

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 08:25 PM
I heard 240s are not good for drifting.

yo are u serious?,u know most of the drifters use 240sx or have used it..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

racepar1
11-01-2013, 08:42 PM
yo are u serious?,u know most of the drifters use 240sx or have used it..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Yeah, he's totally serious. Civics are best for drifting...

:mepoke:

Your "kind-of wishlist" sucks BTW.

Look, we see this EXACT SAME THREAD once a month. You really need to invest more of your time learning a lot of stuff. Make zilvia a part of your daily routine. Search here and on google for "drift car setup" and "drifting techniques" and start to develop a basic knowledge of what you want to do. Once you've got a basic knowledge, go to some drift events, talk to people, learn stuff. You can't learn everything you want by posting a dumbass thread asking to be spoonfed information when you don't even really know what information you want or need. This doesn't happen overnight. It takes YEARS of dedication and research to become knowledgeable in what you want to know.

I would advise you to initially focus more on learning to ACTUALLY DRIVE the car before you just jump into drifting. Drifting is a driving technique, NOT a sport. It is not the first one you need to learn. Go to some trackdays and spend some time with their instructors. Get comfortable driving a car ACTUALLY FAST and develop some basic driving techniques. This basic foundation is necessary if you want to be any good at drifting.

xoxide
11-01-2013, 08:56 PM
I seriously regret seeing this guys location.... :dead:

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 08:57 PM
Yeah, he's totally serious. Civics are best for drifting...

:mepoke:

Your "kind-of wishlist" sucks BTW.

Look, we see this EXACT SAME THREAD once a month. You really need to invest more of your time learning a lot of stuff. Make zilvia a part of your daily routine. Search here and on google for "drift car setup" and "drifting techniques" and start to develop a basic knowledge of what you want to do. Once you've got a basic knowledge, go to some drift events, talk to people, learn stuff. You can't learn everything you want by posting a dumbass thread asking to be spoonfed information when you don't even really know what information you want or need. This doesn't happen overnight. It takes YEARS of dedication and research to become knowledgeable in what you want to know.

I would advise you to initially focus more on learning to ACTUALLY DRIVE the car before you just jump into drifting. Drifting is a driving technique, NOT a sport. It is not the first one you need to learn. Go to some trackdays and spend some time with their instructors. Get comfortable driving a car ACTUALLY FAST and develop some basic driving techniques. This basic foundation is necessary if you want to be any good at drifting.

well yeah dude i know that it takes years but it dont hurt to ask ya know and thats how i learn too..
there arent really tracks here in j-ville so if i ever get one, i dont know where to take it and yes i totally agree on that part when u said that posting threads here and there wont make u a good drifter but while im saving up money for that 240sx i want to get the most ideas that i can..organize them..

ive been looking at videos and threads like the drift bible, drifting.com, etc and i dont want to be spoonfed either because i know its all through hardwork man..

it might stupid and ridiculous for ya but this would help me avoid some of the basic crap that needs to be avoided when getting started..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 08:59 PM
Yeah, he's totally serious. Civics are best for drifting...

:mepoke:

Your "kind-of wishlist" sucks BTW.

Look, we see this EXACT SAME THREAD once a month. You really need to invest more of your time learning a lot of stuff. Make zilvia a part of your daily routine. Search here and on google for "drift car setup" and "drifting techniques" and start to develop a basic knowledge of what you want to do. Once you've got a basic knowledge, go to some drift events, talk to people, learn stuff. You can't learn everything you want by posting a dumbass thread asking to be spoonfed information when you don't even really know what information you want or need. This doesn't happen overnight. It takes YEARS of dedication and research to become knowledgeable in what you want to know.

I would advise you to initially focus more on learning to ACTUALLY DRIVE the car before you just jump into drifting. Drifting is a driving technique, NOT a sport. It is not the first one you need to learn. Go to some trackdays and spend some time with their instructors. Get comfortable driving a car ACTUALLY FAST and develop some basic driving techniques. This basic foundation is necessary if you want to be any good at drifting.

and hey i appreciate u being honest bro and one more question, civics really? i know u can drift FWDs but civics?..i know you are talking about the EGs, EKs and others


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 09:01 PM
I seriously regret seeing this guys location.... :dead:

now why is that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

xoxide
11-01-2013, 09:05 PM
Its rather embarassing seeing someone from the same city who is incapable of searching and doing their own research.

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 09:13 PM
Its rather embarassing seeing someone from the same city who is incapable of searching and doing their own research.

ive been looking through these forums and others too..i dont really think thats incapable..but its true that i'm a little naive and dumb but thats because idk shit bout this stuff thats y i ask..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

CharCharXD
11-01-2013, 09:32 PM
The noob bashers of zilvia strike again lol

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 09:34 PM
The noob bashers of zilvia strike again lol

yo charchar your name is familiar..are u by any chance that same charchar from psn?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

badass8
11-01-2013, 10:03 PM
good luck on your upcoming event dude and yeah it definitely helps man..i work at autozone and im familiar with that KYB coils also that PBM is it any good? and what about differentials? where can i get good ones?

this is "kind of" my wishlist:
mishimoto radiator
enkei rims
megan coils
greddy exhaust
KN intake
turbonetics
sparco seats


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Thanks man. I like PBM because they are stiff in other words I wouldn't want to daily drive on PBMs. If you are on a budget id say Megan's I was planning on those but I figured I should go big so I spent the $1200. I wouldn't purchase expensive 17inch+ wheels at first I am running stock 15inch SE wheels because they are small and very easy to spin the wheels, which is needed for an under powered KA.

You need to make plans and figure out what you want to do. Like is the 240sx going to be a track car or a daily and a drift car. Do you plan to keep the KA and turbo it or just keep it stock and wait till it blows up to swap in a different engine.

For my plans I am waiting for the KA to blow up to swap in a v8. Only thing I did was better cooling which is key for a drift car since your beating the shit out of it. Message me if you have any more questions


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 10:27 PM
Thanks man. I like PBM because they are stiff in other words I wouldn't want to daily drive on PBMs. If you are on a budget id say Megan's I was planning on those but I figured I should go big so I spent the $1200. I wouldn't purchase expensive 17inch+ wheels at first I am running stock 15inch SE wheels because they are small and very easy to spin the wheels, which is needed for an under powered KA.

You need to make plans and figure out what you want to do. Like is the 240sx going to be a track car or a daily and a drift car. Do you plan to keep the KA and turbo it or just keep it stock and wait till it blows up to swap in a different engine.

For my plans I am waiting for the KA to blow up to swap in a v8. Only thing I did was better cooling which is key for a drift car since your beating the shit out of it. Message me if you have any more questions


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

thats nice dude..imma go check on that PBMs and for the wheels, i'm not gonna go right away with enkei but i will go for used and cheap ones..

and yeah you're right..i need to make plans for all that stuff cuz as of right now i'm just happy go lucky lol

as for the engine, imma wait until it blows and then swap it with either a 2jzgte or rb26dett if possible and affordable cuz those two caught my eye


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

brndck
11-01-2013, 10:38 PM
poor lil fella. he never even knew what hit him.....
:picardfp:

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 10:53 PM
poor lil fella. he never even knew what hit him.....
:picardfp:

man, of course i mean shit i just moved to this country like 2 years ago so i really dont know so why dont ya enlighten me?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

DJ 21o3
11-01-2013, 10:54 PM
Sadly you already found out that zilvia is ruthless to the noobies. We have all been there, but sometimes it is best to keep quiet. lol that is what I personally learned. You will catch on with time. Keep an eye on open threads where you might be able to ask a quick question without getting flamed. Just don't thread jack. The main issue people have here is using the search. There is a reason for that: 99% of things have been covered AT LEAST twice. lol It might take time but search. If you can't find the answer, look for the "Small Questions" thread.

As for the guy above saying he has PBM coils, that doesn't really help you. It is the spring rates that you want to know about. I don't know what PBM runs stock, but spring rates really make a difference in stiffness. Like Fortune Auto runs 8k front and 6k rear springs (I think), yet I know i will be ordering my set with 10k front and 8k rear.

I am going to shoot down your fanboi dreams here but forget about all parts you think you want unless you really know about them. With a 5k budget, good luck. I will be spending over 3k in suspension components alone this winter and that doesn't even include my 5 lug swap, rims, tires, and brakes. Forget about engine swaps. Buy a stock 240 and change only the suspension and weld up the diff. Push the piss out of that car and get used to that. Believe me, 150hp is more than enough contrary to popular belief. A 2jz or RB26 are both insane swaps that will result in your death or you selling the unfinished project out of rage. Keep it simple. KA-t, SR20, maybe a 1Jz, Rb20 or RB25. But focus on handling first. I have a car with a relatively stock SR20 but I am putting all of my focus on suspension first. The best drivers (yes, drivers. not just drifters) always recommend learning with a low powered car. Take that advice and take small steps.

You might not have tracks in the area, but keep an eye out on local forums for drift events. People sometimes organize events in large open parking lots, just like they do with auto-x. Just keep it off the streets. Yes we all "accidentally" kick the clutch going around an on/off ramp every now and then, but don't make it an every day occurrence.

Good luck, reality is going to hit you hard...I was prepared and I know it sat me down!

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 11:05 PM
Sadly you already found out that zilvia is ruthless to the noobies. We have all been there, but sometimes it is best to keep quiet. lol that is what I personally learned. You will catch on with time. Keep an eye on open threads where you might be able to ask a quick question without getting flamed. Just don't thread jack. The main issue people have here is using the search. There is a reason for that: 99% of things have been covered AT LEAST twice. lol It might take time but search. If you can't find the answer, look for the "Small Questions" thread.

As for the guy above saying he has PBM coils, that doesn't really help you. It is the spring rates that you want to know about. I don't know what PBM runs stock, but spring rates really make a difference in stiffness. Like Fortune Auto runs 8k front and 6k rear springs (I think), yet I know i will be ordering my set with 10k front and 8k rear.

I am going to shoot down your fanboi dreams here but forget about all parts you think you want unless you really know about them. With a 5k budget, good luck. I will be spending over 3k in suspension components alone this winter and that doesn't even include my 5 lug swap, rims, tires, and brakes. Forget about engine swaps. Buy a stock 240 and change only the suspension and weld up the diff. Push the piss out of that car and get used to that. Believe me, 150hp is more than enough contrary to popular belief. A 2jz or RB26 are both insane swaps that will result in your death or you selling the unfinished project out of rage. Keep it simple. KA-t, SR20, maybe a 1Jz, Rb20 or RB25. But focus on handling first. I have a car with a relatively stock SR20 but I am putting all of my focus on suspension first. The best drivers (yes, drivers. not just drifters) always recommend learning with a low powered car. Take that advice and take small steps.

You might not have tracks in the area, but keep an eye out on local forums for drift events. People sometimes organize events in large open parking lots, just like they do with auto-x. Just keep it off the streets. Yes we all "accidentally" kick the clutch going around an on/off ramp every now and then, but don't make it an every day occurrence.

Good luck, reality is going to hit you hard...I was prepared and I know it sat me down!

tnx man that was really an eye opener for me and now i know where to start with..imma go more in depth in my research to get more info and as for the flaming, it gets annoying sure, but ill still ask questions man..

damn, necessito mucho cash for sure but one quick question though, how much should i save up to get a car and get some decent mods that will help me practice drifting?

"accidentally" lol anyway after i get my 240,
ill be attending that saturday meet in my area to gather some more info..i also know about one area that they use to drag..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

DJ 21o3
11-01-2013, 11:13 PM
Not sure about the Florida market but I picked up my SR powered S13 for 5k. You can probably find a decent KA powered S-chassis for 2500-3000. Then i wouldnt spend less than 1000 on coils unless they are on sale. Parts by Max (PBM) probably would work for you. I am personally going with Fortune Auto 500. Weld your diff, then spend some money on some more power (Intake, headers, exhaust) and cooling. Keep spending money to keep the car reliable while you save up money to do things right. You get what you pay for, so i recommend trying to get nothing but good parts. You might be able to get the ISIS suspension arms (Ryan Tuerck runs them on his missile so they cant be too bad for a beater). Handling is key to drifting. Power just makes it more insane once you have the basics.

zangetsu1223
11-01-2013, 11:31 PM
Not sure about the Florida market but I picked up my SR powered S13 for 5k. You can probably find a decent KA powered S-chassis for 2500-3000. Then i wouldnt spend less than 1000 on coils unless they are on sale. Parts by Max (PBM) probably would work for you. I am personally going with Fortune Auto 500. Weld your diff, then spend some money on some more power (Intake, headers, exhaust) and cooling. Keep spending money to keep the car reliable while you save up money to do things right. You get what you pay for, so i recommend trying to get nothing but good parts. You might be able to get the ISIS suspension arms (Ryan Tuerck runs them on his missile so they cant be too bad for a beater). Handling is key to drifting. Power just makes it more insane once you have the basics.

i gotcha..the market here is pretty good from my point of view because i saw a couple of 240s on craigs that look fairly well and at low price..oh yeah as for welding your diff,can u add more info? and imma dig up the thread that talks about it..allright imma put on my training wheels take one step at a time..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

DJ 21o3
11-01-2013, 11:38 PM
i gotcha..the market here is pretty good from my point of view because i saw a couple of 240s on craigs that look fairly well and at low price..oh yeah as for welding your diff,can u add more info? and imma dig up the thread that talks about it..allright imma put on my training wheels take one step at a time..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
I dont have personal experience with welded, but you can tell when someone has one. Google it, there is plently of info out there. I have a clutch type LSD in my S13 and love it...noisey but I like it. I am glad I never had to deal with welded diffs.

GUZZLE7
11-02-2013, 02:59 AM
lol all these guys are frigan jerks. let me help you out broseph. i dont know if you know the basics on 240s but here it is:

So you have s13 240's (1989-1994) which is going to be your best bet because they go for about half the cost of s14 240's (1995-1998) and they are a couple hundred pounds lighter which lighter is always bettter although the s14 flex points are way better and overall is a more stable chassis but dont worry about that right now just swoop up an s13. i wouldnt spend anymore than $2000 for a good running stock s13. i got my s13 shell for free. i dont know how the prices are in florida, but in northern california its like a 240sx grave yard. you can find 16 year olds driving 240's around every corner and theres like a minumum of 4 pages on craigslist worth of 240 parts in this area every day.

the s13's came with two different motors a ka24e (which is a single cam) and a ka24de (which is a dual cam). get a dual cam dont get a single cam. lol and make sure its a 5 speed. lol and the guy talking about civics drifting hes just kidding no fwd shit. gatta be manual rwd. KEEP THE STOCK exhaust and air box on it. if you know anything about back pressure and valve rim overlap for naturally aspirated cars you will know that throwing some afermarket 3 inch frigan exhaust on it loses power and the stock air box is the coldest form of air because its plummed to the outside of the car. everything else is just aftermarket hot air waste your money intake. just do a simple tune up plugs, wires, filter, all your fluids, and get your timing right. thats all you need to worry about for the motor for now. starting with the stock power is good because it will train you to have to weight transfer harder and use your speed and momentum to keep the car sideways instead of relying on power to do it all for you, that way when you get more power it will be easy for u.

ok now for suspension you must have a welded diff. vlsd is too unpredictable they are old and shitty and they sometimes open up mid drift. just weld it solid. in cali a wleded diff goes for 80 bucks or if you have an open diff in your car and you know a welder you can pull it out and have him weld the spider gears together. it literally takes more time pulling it than it does welding it, its real easy and it takes less than an hour to pull the diff. make sure the gears are cleaned off very well and theres no gear oil left on them or the weld will suck and might break. for now i would just get EMUSA coilovers they are only 400 bucks on ebay and the most important part is they are way stiffer than stock and you can go pretty low with them, unless you have the money to buy good coilovers, but like that guy said its really all about the spring rate and most important part is getting a better spring rate than stock and lower the cars center of gravity because they are like monster trucks stock. i would just use SE wheels you probably dont want to buy 17 inch rims because your going to have a tough time spinning them with the amount of power your going to have. i would try to run the least amount of camber in the rear as you can so you dont spin out every time u try to transfer back and forth and a decent amount of camber in the front so u have some tire on the ground for when your at full lock. get a drift button on the e-brake they are only 10 bucks that way you can use the ebrake without it locking and maybe a steering wheel that your comfortable with. thats all you need to do to the car and your ready to start learning comfortably. should only cost around 2500 bucks if u do it right.

now like that guy said you need to learn how to drive first not just drift. i dont know how well of a driver you are but i know i first started off road course racing so i had the whole concept of Apexing, oversteer, and understeer down. go hit a couple of track days and get used to the car, or do what everyone on zilvia frowns upon and hit the mountains and get down the concept of entering a corner and accelerating through a corner and not using your brake in the corner. feel the cars breaking point where the rear tires begin to brake traction and get used to the 240. they are amazing cars they handle just as good as they drift if u set them up right. then when your ready to drift take it to a skid pad day, or take it to and empty parking lot like every on zilvia frowns upon, and get down drift nuts... no not donuts.. so all you do is so at a stop, turn the steering wheel full lock in one direction, in first gear clutch in, rev the motor up as high as u want and then dump the cluch as hard as u can. the rear end is going to kick out and the car is going spin sideways but stay on the gas. now if u keep holding the steering wheel in that diresction your just going to do rodeys (gangster muscle car donuts), thats not what your going for you are trying to do drift nuts, so contrary to your natural instinct, you need to literally let go of the steering wheel, let the steering literally slide in your finger tips and the car will literally correct itself. let the steering wheel keep sliding in your hands until the car is now doing a big circle instead of just a spin, then catch the steering wheel and hold it there but stay on the gas the whole time. now u can just play with the gas (throttle on and off) and do bigger and bigger cirlcles. put a few cones spread apart and try to do a big circle around them all. and DONT forget to practice it going the opposite direction. you want to be comfortable both ways. this is the basic concept of counter steering clutch kicking and thottle control. now once you master it both ways try to do figure eights. so to do a figure 8 all you have to do is perform a drift nut and then mid drift nut let off and the car wheel transer the other way then instantly get back on the throttle while letting the car counter steer. this will train you to tranfer between corners so you can connect drifts. you will learn that connecting drifts corner to corner is way funner than just hitting one corner. once you've mastered the transfer and the figure 8 now its time to hit a corner. WHOLE nother ball game here bacuase now you have to master the intiation, weight transfer and speed. find a very wide corner with round curbs and no poles lol or go to the track. now this is the fun part. this is where knowing how to apex comes in handy. similar concept to apex in road racing but you start the corner way earlier becasue your going to be sideways way before the corner. this is where everyone goes wrong they dont use enough speed and they start the drift in the middle of the corner which is all wrong its not a drift if u start it in the middle of the corner its just a power slide then. a drift is initiated way before u get to the corner, its called phat dopey fresh long initations. and THE MORE SPEED the easier it is even tho your fear will tell you otherwise. start off in second gear here. your going to have to watch videos on this because its hard to explain i recomend watching the drift bible or 'in car' videos of pro drifters or have some guy that looks like hes good at the track take you for a ride and study him. i always enter the corner wide, about mid range in my RPMs, and weight transfer the shit out of the car (you basically flick the steering wheel towards the inside of the corner super hard) and then clutch kick at the same time you flick the steering wheel. dont be a bitch with the clutch kick rev that sh*t up to red line and dump that clutch hard. you have to time the weight transfer (flick of the steering wheel) and the clutch kick perfectly, then once the car kicked out sideways do the same concept as the drift nuts and let go of the steering wheel let the car correct itself and let the steering wheel slide in your fingers. there will be a moment where your off the gas but once you catch the steering wheel get back on the gas hard. aim the nose of your car at the inside of the corner then extended your drift to the outside of the corner almost to the curb. im usually sittin on rev limiter hard and extending the shit outa my drift all the way until my rear bumper clips the other curb. its easier to straightin the car out if u stay on the throttle hard until the car is perfectly straight dont let off abruptly.

then after that u can learn manjis and 3rd gear and connecting corners and using the ebrake to extend the drift and slow down and all that fun stuff but learn all that other stuff first. hope all this helped and god bless man.

GUZZLE7
11-02-2013, 04:55 AM
PBM coil overs arent bad coils i dont really know the specs on them but ive driven in a few cars with them and they ride good and drift fine. theres a really good suspension write up on here about camber caster toe roll center etc.. to start i would just make sure your car is aligned but when you lower your car your stock arm adjustments wont be able to adjust enough to eliminate all the camber created from lowering your car so just do the best u can until u buy aftermarket RUCAS and all your other suspension arms. dont fallow all these clowns with all their camber and hella flush garabage. u want as much tread on the ground in the rear as u can that way your car will catch when u let off and u will be able to transer and get more angle without spinning out so easy. and as far as the engine cooling goes i always change the water pump and thermostat on any new motor or car i buy and bleed the cooling system. look up the write up on how to bleed the ka motors its real simple. and if u have a good working fan your motor should have no problems staying cool with the stock setup, but if u really want to spend the money on a new radiator to be safe more power to you. just make sure most importantly your temp guage works. on my track car i have digital temp, oil pressure, boost, and air fuel ratio guage. u wanna know whats going down so u dont blow your sh*t. you should be fine in your ka as long as your temp guage works properly and maybe get an aftermarket temp guage if your feeling frisky.
best bet is finding a car on craigslist. i always bring a compression checker and check the compression before i purchase any car. i think the compression on ka's is suppose to be around 165 psi. the most important part is that they are all the same or within 5 psi of eachother. and then i look underneath the car and check the frame rails make sure the body isnt all tweaked out and check the radiator support and front end make sure it hasnt been in a wreck. you will see signs of it all tweaked in there if they tried to cover it up. lol even tho i think every 240 ive bought has been in a front end collision or has had the rediator support swapped out. a lot are going to be like that lol. fire the motor up and listen to the motor make sure its not knocking. i always hold it at 2000rpm and listen for knock or timing chain rattle. and remember every 240sx is OBO lol so bargain with that bitch dont let him add on drift tax to the price. keep it around $2000

OMFGeofffff
11-02-2013, 07:48 AM
1. Save up your 5k budget
2. Buy preswapped drift machine
3. Clutch-kick into a tree
4. ??????
5. Profit

new2sr20
11-02-2013, 08:22 AM
Yeah, he's totally serious. Civics are best for drifting...

:mepoke:

Your "kind-of wishlist" sucks BTW.

Look, we see this EXACT SAME THREAD once a month. You really need to invest more of your time learning a lot of stuff. Make zilvia a part of your daily routine. Search here and on google for "drift car setup" and "drifting techniques" and start to develop a basic knowledge of what you want to do. Once you've got a basic knowledge, go to some drift events, talk to people, learn stuff. You can't learn everything you want by posting a dumbass thread asking to be spoonfed information when you don't even really know what information you want or need. This doesn't happen overnight. It takes YEARS of dedication and research to become knowledgeable in what you want to know.

I would advise you to initially focus more on learning to ACTUALLY DRIVE the car before you just jump into drifting. Drifting is a driving technique, NOT a sport. It is not the first one you need to learn. Go to some trackdays and spend some time with their instructors. Get comfortable driving a car ACTUALLY FAST and develop some basic driving techniques. This basic foundation is necessary if you want to be any good at drifting.



damn Racepar1...thats the nicest thing Ive seen you say on zilvia...you going soft damnit!!!!!???

racepar1
11-02-2013, 12:33 PM
damn Racepar1...thats the nicest thing Ive seen you say on zilvia...you going soft damnit!!!!!???

The kid is just so clueless. It's kind of like beating a puppy...

GTR-Garage
11-02-2013, 01:16 PM
I am the old man now and I gave up drifting in the late 90s when the family came along. However, a built drift car to us had a differential, clutch, full bucket seat, shocks/spring upgrade (this was pre coilover proliferation era) and boost-up.

Looking in from he outside it seems like everyone now is trying to start off with a race car and trying to catch up skill-wise. As our skill level grew we improved our car to suit. Needless to say my cars never needed more than basic upgrades to handle the abuses I was able to put them through!

racepar1
11-02-2013, 01:42 PM
I am the old man now and I gave up drifting in the late 90s when the family came along. However, a built drift car to us had a differential, clutch, full bucket seat, shocks/spring upgrade (this was pre coilover proliferation era) and boost-up.

Looking in from he outside it seems like everyone now is trying to start off with a race car and trying to catch up skill-wise. As our skill level grew we improved our car to suit. Needless to say my cars never needed more than basic upgrades to handle the abuses I was able to put them through!

Well put. Everyone seems to be in it to have a "rad" car and be one of the "cool guys". Back then it was more about learning the techniques and honing your skill than how JDM awesome your car was. That's the problem with drift kids now-a-days to me. Too much flash, not enough precision, no basic foundation to build on. Everyone just wants to jump right in head first immediately rather than having the patience and dedication to build a basic foundation of knowledge and skills to start with.

brndck
11-03-2013, 11:20 AM
Exactly! /\/\/\/\ everyone thinks they need a cage and a supercharged LS and a wisefab kit and a 900mm wide body with a BCL wing just to go drifting.

Like that other dude said, clutch, diff, bucket, spring upgrade. Then SEAT TIME

tloh
11-03-2013, 06:28 PM
Well put. Everyone seems to be in it to have a "rad" car and be one of the "cool guys". Back then it was more about learning the techniques and honing your skill than how JDM awesome your car was. That's the problem with drift kids now-a-days to me. Too much flash, not enough precision, no basic foundation to build on. Everyone just wants to jump right in head first immediately rather than having the patience and dedication to build a basic foundation of knowledge and skills to start with.

+1 for this statement.

BoostSlideWayz
11-03-2013, 09:58 PM
when you find your desired s chassis its a good idea to focus on stiffening up the ride abit. Some 40 dollar front and rear strut tower bars work well.

Then welded diff if you on a budget. BUT... it sucks driving a welded diff at high speeds.... just loud and crappy sounding so if you plan on driving the car not only for daily driving but also drifting from time to time your gonna want to spend some dough on a nice LSD.

The typical full exhaust system will help flow alittle better. Obviously aftermarket coils is smart however you wanna get a good name brand set.

If you have enough play money you can find a power solution.. Most people go SR, i think the ka is fun. But ultimately its your choice.

Typically you wanna gain as much experience you can even with limited hp because you learn how to work the car. More power makes it much more simpler ( in my opinion ) to drift and swing the rear end out.

Cyannis
11-04-2013, 01:27 PM
To OP, You should take most of what you read with a grain of salt, a lot of people will be sarcastic on here. :p

OBEEWON
11-04-2013, 02:10 PM
First thing I want you to rip that e-brake. Then after you rip the e-brake you're gonna power over. Just don't hurt Mona Lisa.

zangetsu1223
11-04-2013, 04:18 PM
hey tnx guys for the tips and advices..if u still have some more..keep 'em coming cuz im readin all of em


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

GUZZLE7
11-04-2013, 06:16 PM
hey tnx guys for the tips and advices..if u still have some more..keep 'em coming cuz im readin all of em


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Hey no problem man. I know some people are pretty harsh on zilvia but the actual drifting community is super awesome. If you go to the track everyone is super friendly and helpful. Lol It's hard for people not to be happy when your out drifting. It's like trying not to smile on a wave runner... Impossible. I'd recommend just fallowing my previous advice and pick up an s13 get it set up correctly for drifting and just start the process of learning. You will be surprised how fast you pick it up if you fallow those steps. And go to the track and meet people and go to car meets and find the right crowd. You'll have fun man good good luck.

zangetsu1223
11-04-2013, 10:46 PM
yeah i will man..i will definitely get that 240 nxt year by feb or march and its gonna be like 3-4k worth..i honestly just wanna fast forward lol cuz i cant wait i feel like a little kid getting a toy for the first time lol and a baby starting on the car world..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-04-2013, 10:47 PM
damn how could i mess up mona when she is beautiful lol it would be an insult


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

VegasDrifterS13
11-13-2013, 09:52 AM
DAMN. I been ROLLIN readin this thread. Some of you are extremely Sarcastic asswipes. Anyways, this poor kid is a beginner, at least hes askin questions.

Honestly, drifting is a skill, like any skill, it is developed through practice. To successfully develop your skills, buy a car that is already modded with at least Coils, welded diff, alum radiator, Good Fans, 5 speed, intake and full exhaust. This will be the least of what you will need to drift. KA's Really Suck, If you can find an SR20 swapped car youll have a huge headstart. I started Drifting in a built car, So i truly believe my learning curve was much smaller and faster than most who start KA stock cars. Save up your $5k and buy a semi-built car. I have Scored built 240s for 4-6k three times now, So i dont believe its Hard to do.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Hiighboost2
11-13-2013, 10:15 AM
Keep it simple. Stick with a stock KA and spend your money on suspension components.
Get your car set up to drift before you spend a bunch on go fast parts.

nighthawk48
11-13-2013, 11:14 AM
civics really? i know u can drift FWDs but civics?..i know you are talking about the EGs, EKs and others



This thread should have been closed after this.

VegasDrifterS13
11-13-2013, 07:43 PM
This thread should have been closed after this.

Damn. SmH. I have optimism about the human Race, then shit like this comes up. .......

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Chrifstine
11-14-2013, 06:04 AM
I am glad I never had to deal with welded diffs.http://www.pczuha.com/9.jpg

Bmadd
11-14-2013, 12:51 PM
I drive an RB swapped s13, fully built suspension, all out, 300 whp rocket sled. I was in Iraq in 03-04 and read in one of those import mags about the swap, and decided to do it. Once it was done I started hitting events with my awesome machine and proceeded to get mopped up by guys with near stock rx-8s and s-chassis cars making half the power and way less suspension.

My point is this: I was in love with the car/motor swap. not with the skills and practice associated with actually being a good driver. Since then my mindset has shifted significantly and I am pretty decent now. If I could do it all over again, I'd have not swapped, and blew all that money on a legit racing school and track time.

When I look at your parts list, I fear you may fall into the same trap. Don't fall in love with the concept of being a drift racer. If you have a very limited budget, then why enkei rims? understand?

I bought some sweet 17x10 5ziegens and can barely afford tires, and I have a professional career. so I went to the junkyard and found some q45 mesh wheels for 100 bucks, and they're 15s so tires are cheap. and i'll drift till the tires blow up and i don't mind.

Actually become a good driver. go to events. talk to people while you save money. go to road atlanta and volunteer to be a flagger at some scca/nasa events. talk to drivers. talk to DRIFT drivers. do ride alongs. go to Auto-x. you can auto-x with an 87 Hyundai as long as it doesnt leak too bad. it will teach you the fundamentals of driving. find a mentor.

Not trying to kill your dreams, just keep you grounded. Best of luck!

irax
11-14-2013, 03:05 PM
Buy the car as cheap as possible
But don't buy cheap parts
Buy used expensive stuff instead of new cheap stuff.

zangetsu1223
11-14-2013, 07:02 PM
I drive an RB swapped s13, fully built suspension, all out, 300 whp rocket sled. I was in Iraq in 03-04 and read in one of those import mags about the swap, and decided to do it. Once it was done I started hitting events with my awesome machine and proceeded to get mopped up by guys with near stock rx-8s and s-chassis cars making half the power and way less suspension.

My point is this: I was in love with the car/motor swap. not with the skills and practice associated with actually being a good driver. Since then my mindset has shifted significantly and I am pretty decent now. If I could do it all over again, I'd have not swapped, and blew all that money on a legit racing school and track time.

When I look at your parts list, I fear you may fall into the same trap. Don't fall in love with the concept of being a drift racer. If you have a very limited budget, then why enkei rims? understand?

I bought some sweet 17x10 5ziegens and can barely afford tires, and I have a professional career. so I went to the junkyard and found some q45 mesh wheels for 100 bucks, and they're 15s so tires are cheap. and i'll drift till the tires blow up and i don't mind.

Actually become a good driver. go to events. talk to people while you save money. go to road atlanta and volunteer to be a flagger at some scca/nasa events. talk to drivers. talk to DRIFT drivers. do ride alongs. go to Auto-x. you can auto-x with an 87 Hyundai as long as it doesnt leak too bad. it will teach you the fundamentals of driving. find a mentor.

Not trying to kill your dreams, just keep you grounded. Best of luck!

dude you're not killing it, you're actually making it clearer to me because when i first started getting into this stuff..it was very vague and i dont know jack shit lol so i didnt know where to start, i looked into drag first and i realized that it does not actually make you better in driving cuz you drive in a straight line and you need lots of moolah to get that nos, supercharger and etc..anyway, i just wanna improve on driving so i could take on drifting while studying about cars..

yeah i reallly do need a mentor cuz most of my friends here dont know much about cars..

tnx 4 the service bro..it must have been tough out there in iraq..buddy of mine was deployed there too..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-14-2013, 07:02 PM
Buy the car as cheap as possible
But don't buy cheap parts
Buy used expensive stuff instead of new cheap stuff.

thats pretty much what the other guy is tryin to say


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

killakees
11-14-2013, 08:22 PM
craigslist is the way to go thats how i got my baby for cheap and negotiated with dude he was selling it because it needed a litttle body work re du fender roll cause he messed up and the spark plug wasnt gapped right and didnt know the problem lol but ive been driving it since may no problems!

zangetsu1223
11-14-2013, 08:34 PM
craigslist is the way to go thats how i got my baby for cheap and negotiated with dude he was selling it because it needed a litttle body work re du fender roll cause he messed up and the spark plug wasnt gapped right and didnt know the problem lol but ive been driving it since may no problems!

hey good for you man!..thats where i plan on getting my 240..right now there's a couple of them..1800 from a "drifter" and 1-2k for shells but thats not what im looking for..im trying to look for one that is in good condition of course and if possible good mods to have good handling and a little bit of horsepower


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

killakees
11-14-2013, 08:36 PM
Honestly i would go for a stock as possible just because you don't know exactly what they did when they put it on and what bot you know what i mean but stock is very hard to find! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-14-2013, 08:39 PM
Honestly i would go for a stock as possible just because you don't know exactly what they did when they put it on and what bot you know what i mean but stock is very hard to find! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

yeah thats why i didnt say that because it is really rare to see one with out any mods on it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

killakees
11-14-2013, 08:41 PM
Yeah I'm trying to get in the scene as well but money is an issue lol well good luck to you! Keep me posted on the build!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-14-2013, 08:52 PM
Yeah I'm trying to get in the scene as well but money is an issue lol well good luck to you! Keep me posted on the build!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

money is always the issue lol even for me

yeah will do man and good luck to you too..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

HipHopHippo
11-14-2013, 09:16 PM
Exactly! /\/\/\/\ everyone thinks they need a cage and a supercharged LS and a wisefab kit and a 900mm wide body with a BCL wing just to go drifting.

Like that other dude said, clutch, diff, bucket, spring upgrade. Then SEAT TIME

I missed you babe

sleepyS14se
11-15-2013, 12:57 PM
i am new at drifiting and 240s in general coming from a long 13 years of building drag hondas.

My "beginner" checklist is:
OMP seat/some sort of high end bucket
kyb agx struts and springs (altready installed)
bushings all the way (whole chassis)
grip royal wheel
hydro ebrake


my car is being/staying as a DD/weekend drift event car ( i will only drift maybe once a month)

zangetsu1223
11-15-2013, 01:06 PM
i am new at drifiting and 240s in general coming from a long 13 years of building drag hondas.

My "beginner" checklist is:
OMP seat/some sort of high end bucket
kyb agx struts and springs (altready installed)
bushings all the way (whole chassis)
grip royal wheel
hydro ebrake


my car is being/staying as a DD/weekend drift event car ( i will only drift maybe once a month)

are the kyb struts stiff enough for drifting? and what did you mean by hydro ebrake??
i need as much info as i can before i get my own 240 to be safe..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

racepar1
11-15-2013, 01:09 PM
bushings all the way (whole chassis)

WAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY too many people just skip right over that very important step. Coilovers are cool and all, but if you're still running around with sloppy stock bushings your suspension is still a sloppy mess, regardless of how much bumps hurt your kidneys. The thing is, bushings are cheap. The problem is, the labor to install the bushings costs as much as the shitfest coilovers most people buy. Kids just don't want to spend that money because it doesn't make the car look any cooler.

The most important thing for ANY beginner is DON'T GET CAUGHT UP IN THE STYLE ASPECT. Put together a solid and reliable car. Who gives a fuck if it has the raddest "JDM" (knockoff) bodykit, hellaflush wheels, and is slammed to the weeds. If it's a sloppy unreliable mess drifting and 240's aren't going to be much fun. Constantly slamming your head against a proverbial wall to figure out what's wrong with your shitbox gets old fast...

racepar1
11-15-2013, 01:14 PM
are the kyb struts stiff enough for drifting? and what did you mean by hydro ebrake??
i need as much info as i can before i get my own 240 to be safe..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

You can drift fine on stock suspension, why would a shock/spring setup not be good enough? This is EXACTLY what I'm talking about. You're biting right into the stereotype of a "drift car". FUCK the stereotype. A badass drifter can drift like crazy with a COMPLETELY stock car AND an OPEN DIFF. Granted, I would not suggest an open diff, but it can be and has been done.

A hydro e-brake is not necessary, really quite useless. That's a HYDRAULIC e-brake. The stock e-brake is fine. Really the e-brake is THE MOST BASIC way to initiate a drift. As you get better it should really be used for correction mid-drift more than initiation.

zangetsu1223
11-15-2013, 01:14 PM
WAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY too many people just skip right over that very important step. Coilovers are cool and all, but if you're still running around with sloppy stock bushings your suspension is still a sloppy mess, regardless of how much bumps hurt your kidneys. The thing is, bushings are cheap. The problem is, the labor to install the bushings costs as much as the shitfest coilovers most people buy. Kids just don't want to spend that money because it doesn't make the car look any cooler.

The most important thing for ANY beginner is DON'T GET CAUGHT UP IN THE STYLE ASPECT. Put together a solid and reliable car. Who gives a fuck if it has the raddest "JDM" (knockoff) bodykit, hellaflush wheels, and is slammed to the weeds. If it's a sloppy unreliable mess drifting and 240's aren't going to be much fun. Constantly slamming your head against a proverbial wall to figure out what's wrong with your shitbox gets old fast...

sht, i agree with you man..all that stuff about accessories comes later for me..for now, i am trying to not skip any step so i wont be sorry later and cost me more money..

for the bushings though, u said they're cheap but where can i get them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-15-2013, 01:20 PM
You can drift fine on stock suspension, why would a shock/spring setup not be good enough? This is EXACTLY what I'm talking about. You're biting right into the stereotype of a "drift car". FUCK the stereotype. A badass drifter can drift like crazy with a COMPLETELY stock car AND an OPEN DIFF. Granted, I would not suggest an open diff, but it can be and has been done.

A hydro e-brake is not necessary, really quite useless. That's a HYDRAULIC e-brake. The stock e-brake is fine. Really the e-brake is THE MOST BASIC way to initiate a drift. As you get better it should really be used for correction mid-drift more than initiation.

most of the guys in here are advising me to go with welded differentials and i just wanna know which springs would be good as a beginner stock or not..

well first i need to improve on driving and then get on to that ebrake lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

sleepyS14se
11-15-2013, 02:39 PM
i choose the kyb agx and springs combo due to me being dd primarily.

hydraulic ebrake is something i want but not really need (i run 19" wheels so my stock ebrake isn't cutting it) (yes i know they are too big)

the bushings are cheap as hell and being i do all my own stuff at our auto repair shop it is cake for me. Most people who have to pay others to do their work for them would be shocked by how much shops charge to burn and press out old bushings and install new ones.

I advise doing as much as you can yourself to save $$$.

ManoNegra
11-15-2013, 04:16 PM
First and most important: move out of Florida.
Your IQ will raise and you'll be able to research the answer to
simple questions.

If the damaging effects of Florida are too high to overcome then here:

- do maintenance on the car - bushings, fluids, sensors, leaks, etc.
- stock KA with 248 cams
- light flywheel
- 4.36 final drive with a 2 way clutch diff.
- coilovers
- clutch upgrade
- bucket seat

and seat time.

VegasDrifterS13
11-15-2013, 04:32 PM
i am new at drifiting and 240s in general coming from a long 13 years of building drag hondas.

My "beginner" checklist is:
OMP seat/some sort of high end bucket
kyb agx struts and springs (altready installed)
bushings all the way (whole chassis)
grip royal wheel
hydro ebrake


my car is being/staying as a DD/weekend drift event car ( i will only drift maybe once a month)

I figured out the problem. You drove; liked; and built Hondas.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

sleepyS14se
11-15-2013, 04:52 PM
I figured out the problem. You drove; liked; and built Hondas.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

lol and i still do love hondas but the nissan 240sx is an interesting chassis with tons of potential. In the process of building a 350 for it now for an increase in power and torque.


Staying on topic.

I think the diff and bucket seat and replacing all the bushings is a good place to start as well as struts/springs or coilovers, whichever is best suited for your needs.

zangetsu1223
11-16-2013, 01:53 PM
First and most important: move out of Florida.
Your IQ will raise and you'll be able to research the answer to
simple questions.

If the damaging effects of Florida are too high to overcome then here:

- do maintenance on the car - bushings, fluids, sensors, leaks, etc.
- stock KA with 248 cams
- light flywheel
- 4.36 final drive with a 2 way clutch diff.
- coilovers
- clutch upgrade
- bucket seat

and seat time.

dude what do you mean by move out from florida? is the drifting scene that bad here?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-16-2013, 01:55 PM
I figured out the problem. You drove; liked; and built Hondas.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

lol this cracked me up a bit..but isnt the s2k capable of drifting or the hatch civics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-16-2013, 01:56 PM
lol and i still do love hondas but the nissan 240sx is an interesting chassis with tons of potential. In the process of building a 350 for it now for an increase in power and torque.


Staying on topic.

I think the diff and bucket seat and replacing all the bushings is a good place to start as well as struts/springs or coilovers, whichever is best suited for your needs.

allright tnx man


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-16-2013, 01:58 PM
If anyone got any other suggestions, feel free to add cuz im actually taking notes and looking through aftermarket shops online..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

xoxide
11-17-2013, 04:30 PM
capable of drifting or the hatch civics?

Did you really just ask if civic hatch's could drift? :hahano:

racepar1
11-17-2013, 05:40 PM
dude what do you mean by move out from florida? is the drifting scene that bad here?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

That is an inside joke around Zilvia. The influx of retards from Florida has been astronomical in the last few years. Hence why we say that Florida makes you stupid. I believe we came to the conclusion that it must be the water. Either that or astronomically un-controlled in-breeding.

Did you really just ask if civic hatch's could drift? :hahano:

Yeah, back in the late 90's-early 2000's there were like 3 people in the world world that tried FWD drifting. All it really was is driving around a racetrack/mountain road with the e-brake locked. Pretty dumb, but I at least see where an un-educated Floridian could get that idea...

zangetsu1223
11-17-2013, 08:36 PM
That is an inside joke around Zilvia. The influx of retards from Florida has been astronomical in the last few years. Hence why we say that Florida makes you stupid. I believe we came to the conclusion that it must be the water. Either that or astronomically un-controlled in-breeding.



Yeah, back in the late 90's-early 2000's there were like 3 people in the world world that tried FWD drifting. All it really was is driving around a racetrack/mountain road with the e-brake locked. Pretty dumb, but I at least see where an un-educated Floridian could get that idea...

Well, I came from the PI so i dont know what the hell you talkin bout and i moved here like 2 yrs ago so im not really one of those "Floridians"..

one more thing, the reason i dont know that much about this is cuz back in my country we couldnt afford this shit..

I saw couple of videos of pros trying to drift the hatch using heel toe and left foot braking


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

racepar1
11-17-2013, 08:46 PM
Well, I came from the PI so i dont know what the hell you talkin bout and i moved here like 2 yrs ago so im not really one of those "Floridians"..

one more thing, the reason i dont know that much about this is cuz back in my country we couldnt afford this shit..

I saw couple of videos of pros trying to drift the hatch using heel toe and left foot braking


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Look, defend yourself all you want. In the end it's just excuses. What you are doing, here in this thread, is generally highly frowned upon here on Zilvia. We emphasize research and searching for yourself. We get offended/pissy when someone simply wants answers handed to them. We all started off with not a lot of knowledge on this subject ourselves. The difference is the older guys didn't have easy answers at our fingertips. we spent our time browsing Japanese websites that we couldn't even read to find out what parts were out there somewhere. We couldn't post a dumbass thread asking for info on a spoon, it wasn't there. As an example, I was browsing around zilvia in the early 2000's when it was a new website. I was all ready to sign up, had my SN picked out, went through the menus, all I had to do was click "accept" and I was in. I decided NOT to SPECIFICALLY because I didn't want to be the village idiot and ended up not even joining untill I bought my second 240 and was setting it up for track events. THAT'S our attitude. It's not that we mind helping people. It's just that we get sick of seeing the same threads and questions posted over and over again. It's about RESPECT, which is something that's no longer taught to kids IMO.

zangetsu1223
11-17-2013, 09:17 PM
Look, defend yourself all you want. In the end it's just excuses. What you are doing, here in this thread, is generally highly frowned upon here on Zilvia. We emphasize research and searching for yourself. We get offended/pissy when someone simply wants answers handed to them. We all started off with not a lot of knowledge on this subject ourselves. The difference is the older guys didn't have easy answers at our fingertips. we spent our time browsing Japanese websites that we couldn't even read to find out what parts were out there somewhere. We couldn't post a dumbass thread asking for info on a spoon, it wasn't there. As an example, I was browsing around zilvia in the early 2000's when it was a new website. I was all ready to sign up, had my SN picked out, went through the menus, all I had to do was click "accept" and I was in. I decided NOT to SPECIFICALLY because I didn't want to be the village idiot and ended up not even joining untill I bought my second 240 and was setting it up for track events. THAT'S our attitude. It's not that we mind helping people. It's just that we get sick of seeing the same threads and questions posted over and over again. It's about RESPECT, which is something that's no longer taught to kids IMO.

call it excuses man i dont really care and i dont know your story on how you get started with all this and you have probably seen posts worse than this but this is the first forum i ever joined since i came here, i dont expect to be spoon fed, all i want is to know and avoid some of the basic mistakes most people made so i dont end up wasting money and feeling sorry for getti g the wrong car or parts..dude we clearly have a different view of respect..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

NAIRB
11-17-2013, 10:16 PM
i dont expect to be spoon fed, all i want is to know and avoid some of the basic mistakes most people made





Dude this is the point he is trying to make. Them "basic mistakes" are things that you could easily figure out yourself by spending some time reading and researching things, and just working on cars. We have all spent our time doing this, some magical alien from jupiter didn't come down an just grant everyone knowledge about cars. No they spent there time an learned from experience.

racepar1
11-17-2013, 10:47 PM
Dude this is the point he is trying to make. Them "basic mistakes" are things that you could easily figure out yourself by spending some time reading and researching things, and just working on cars. We have all spent our time doing this, some magical alien from jupiter didn't come down an just grant everyone knowledge about cars. No they spent there time an learned from experience.

That's it in a nutshell, right on the money.

You don't gain knowledge by asking stupid questions in a stupid thread. You don't learn a damned thing like that. Information that is simply handed to you never really sinks in. You NEED the experience. You NEED to put the time into YOUR OWN research. That's the ONLY way you learn anything. With YOUR OWN blood, sweat, and tears.

Those of us that have bled our own blood, shed our own sweat, and "cried" our own "tears" see is as a disrespect when others are not willing to put in that kind of effort. That's what it's really about is the EFFORT that you put in. Lots of effort earns respect. Minimal effort earns you the opposite.

Personally I think I have been really rather kind and patient in this thread, which is not typical of me in these kinds of treads. I'm trying to pass-on the knowledge of acquiring your own knowledge. It's sickening how that is taken as such an insult be the vast majority of younger generations. I'm not even that old and I can see the difference in attitude between the guys that I grew up with and the noobs today.

bataangpinoy
11-18-2013, 04:48 PM
Simplicity is your best friend.

Try and nab a ka24de car at the very least, or something with a stock-ish sr20det swap.

upgrade that clutch asap. exedy stage 2 (3 puck cerametallic), make sure you get the one with the thick clutch pads. There is a version with thin pads, and is not suitable for every day use.

Sticky front tires. Star specs, etc. makes your life a fair bit easier when initiating.

Rebuild your rear calipers, adjust your ebrake handle, and get grippy rear pads. I recommend porterfield R4-S.

Decent coilovers. You can get the entry level D-Max! coilovers for 750 shipped in think.

Rear subframe collars, but subframe risers are the better choice.

replace all your worn out bushings

Get a welded diff,

keep it 4 lug, and smoke out your stock 15's and go party.

Livid_240sx
11-18-2013, 07:58 PM
and hey i appreciate u being honest bro and one more question, civics really? i know u can drift FWDs but civics?..i know you are talking about the EGs, EKs and others Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Dude, you can't drift a civic.

Source: I own a 2000 si.


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

VegasDrifterS13
11-18-2013, 08:19 PM
Dude, you can't drift a civic.

Source: I own a 2000 si.


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Park your rear tires on pizza pans or mcDonalds trays, rip your Ebrake up and VIOLA. As close as you can get to drifting a Civic

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

VegasDrifterS13
11-18-2013, 08:45 PM
That's it in a nutshell, right on the money.

You don't gain knowledge by asking stupid questions in a stupid thread. You don't learn a damned thing like that. Information that is simply handed to you never really sinks in. You NEED the experience. You NEED to put the time into YOUR OWN research. That's the ONLY way you learn anything. With YOUR OWN blood, sweat, and tears.

Those of us that have bled our own blood, shed our own sweat, and "cried" our own "tears" see is as a disrespect when others are not willing to put in that kind of effort. That's what it's really about is the EFFORT that you put in. Lots of effort earns respect. Minimal effort earns you the opposite.

Personally I think I have been really rather kind and patient in this thread, which is not typical of me in these kinds of treads. I'm trying to pass-on the knowledge of acquiring your own knowledge. It's sickening how that is taken as such an insult be the vast majority of younger generations. I'm not even that old and I can see the difference in attitude between the guys that I grew up with and the noobs today.

Very well said. Im only 26 years old but I Have 13 years of experience hands on and have been going to races and car shows for 20 years. That being said, I am only 3 years into my S-chassis knowledge and only 1 year into drifting.

I can see how one gets short and irritated with stupidity, but as an extremely knowledgable mechanic and enthusiast, even I have questions about things and will ask them. Being Rude is pointless. It actually takes effort to be an asshole and read someones thread, then type a sarcastic or hateful reply, All for what? So everyone on Zilvia knows not to ask you any questions and you maintain your COOL Guy points. Grow a PAIR and Talk mess to someones face if you wanna test your WIT!!!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

zangetsu1223
11-18-2013, 09:41 PM
That's it in a nutshell, right on the money.

You don't gain knowledge by asking stupid questions in a stupid thread. You don't learn a damned thing like that. Information that is simply handed to you never really sinks in. You NEED the experience. You NEED to put the time into YOUR OWN research. That's the ONLY way you learn anything. With YOUR OWN blood, sweat, and tears.

Those of us that have bled our own blood, shed our own sweat, and "cried" our own "tears" see is as a disrespect when others are not willing to put in that kind of effort. That's what it's really about is the EFFORT that you put in. Lots of effort earns respect. Minimal effort earns you the opposite.

Personally I think I have been really rather kind and patient in this thread, which is not typical of me in these kinds of treads. I'm trying to pass-on the knowledge of acquiring your own knowledge. It's sickening how that is taken as such an insult be the vast majority of younger generations. I'm not even that old and I can see the difference in attitude between the guys that I grew up with and the noobs today.

look man, i appreciate you being kind enough to answer some of the questions that ive been asking..also i dont care if you're being sarcastic or an asshole all i care about is the knowledge not spoonfed but advices that could be helpful to keep me from beating around the bush for longer but dont give me that bullshit about blood,sweat and tears cuz dude, im 20 i got two jobs and im full time at school so i am
fully aware of what hardwork is and especially in my country and what happened now..

i respect your experience on cars but dont be underestimatin this generation just because you've seen like a thousand threads like this..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-18-2013, 09:45 PM
Dude, you can't drift a civic.

Source: I own a 2000 si.


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

i was saying that to myself too but when i saw these japanese guys competing on drift with those hatch civics, i kinda doubted it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-18-2013, 09:48 PM
Simplicity is your best friend.

Try and nab a ka24de car at the very least, or something with a stock-ish sr20det swap.

upgrade that clutch asap. exedy stage 2 (3 puck cerametallic), make sure you get the one with the thick clutch pads. There is a version with thin pads, and is not suitable for every day use.

Sticky front tires. Star specs, etc. makes your life a fair bit easier when initiating.

Rebuild your rear calipers, adjust your ebrake handle, and get grippy rear pads. I recommend porterfield R4-S.

Decent coilovers. You can get the entry level D-Max! coilovers for 750 shipped in think.

Rear subframe collars, but subframe risers are the better choice.

replace all your worn out bushings

Get a welded diff,

keep it 4 lug, and smoke out your stock 15's and go party.

yo bro i see you are a pinoy too..appreciate all the info but how does each stages of clutch differ from each other?..also, is your family safe back home?..heard what happened..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Livid_240sx
11-18-2013, 10:49 PM
i was saying that to myself too but when i saw these japanese guys competing on drift with those hatch civics, i kinda doubted it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)


Best you can to "drift" a civic is

1. Go high speed and rip E-brake

2. Whip it back and forth and slide out the tail.

Both will result in mild chuckle amusement at best.

God I need more money for my build.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

sleepyS14se
11-19-2013, 01:03 PM
op do you have a 240sx?

Livid_240sx
11-19-2013, 01:09 PM
op do you have a 240sx?


He does not.

zangetsu1223
11-19-2013, 01:19 PM
no not yet but im gettin it nxt year for sure..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

sleepyS14se
11-19-2013, 01:25 PM
ok, you need to get a s chassis 1st, THEN we can go from there....

zangetsu1223
11-19-2013, 01:28 PM
yeah figured that..ill spend about 3k for the whole car and 1k to make it more reliable before putting on aftermarkets..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Livid_240sx
11-19-2013, 01:28 PM
ok, you need to get a s chassis 1st, THEN we can go from there....

Agreed.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

sleepyS14se
11-19-2013, 01:29 PM
OP sounds like he needs a s13 rather than a s14

Livid_240sx
11-19-2013, 01:48 PM
OP sounds like he needs a s13 rather than a s14

Yeah, an s13 would probably be friendlier to his goals and budget.

Go s13 op, buy rolling chassis and swap in a sr20. It'd be cheaper than buying a ka s14.

zangetsu1223
11-19-2013, 07:36 PM
Yeah, an s13 would probably be friendlier to his goals and budget.

Go s13 op, buy rolling chassis and swap in a sr20. It'd be cheaper than buying a ka s14.

yeah i was thinking about that too..my original plan was a s14 kouki or zenki KA or SR but as far as the suggestions here go, i think im going for s13 but the ones listed on craigs are mostly s14..i hope it changes by nxt year


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

racepar1
11-20-2013, 01:56 PM
look man, i appreciate you being kind enough to answer some of the questions that ive been asking..also i dont care if you're being sarcastic or an asshole all i care about is the knowledge not spoonfed but advices that could be helpful to keep me from beating around the bush for longer but dont give me that bullshit about blood,sweat and tears cuz dude, im 20 i got two jobs and im full time at school so i am
fully aware of what hardwork is and especially in my country and what happened now..

i respect your experience on cars but dont be underestimatin this generation just because you've seen like a thousand threads like this..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

You've got a much better attitude than most of these jackasses now-a-days, I can commend you on that at least. You've really got to do your own research though man. I'm reading the posts from these "helpful" and "friendly" members and just shaking my head. Most of these guys really don't know enough to give you an real relevant advice. Most of them hardly know any more than you do. For example, buy a rolling shell and swap an SR? That's fucking stupid for a beginner. Do you want to go drifting or do you want to have a project car that you can't drift untill it's complete??? Buy a complete running car, spend your time driving it and your money on track time. All those super awesome shiny parts will come with time. You don't need an SR, you need to learn how to drive the KA. Once you've gotten to the point where you feel that the KA is holding you back, then upgrade.

Take every single piece of advice that you get with a grain of salt. Assume everyone else is a jackass and doesn't know WTF they're talking about. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH!!! Over time you will figure out who knows WTF they're talking about and who doesn't. Once again, ONLY EXPERIENCE can teach you that.

sleepyS14se
11-20-2013, 03:58 PM
OP needs a running and driving ka or sr powered s13 to start off with.

GUZZLE7
11-20-2013, 04:23 PM
You've got a much better attitude than most of these jackasses now-a-days, I can commend you on that at least. You've really got to do your own research though man. I'm reading the posts from these "helpful" and "friendly" members and just shaking my head. Most of these guys really don't know enough to give you an real relevant advice. Most of them hardly know any more than you do. For example, buy a rolling shell and swap an SR? That's fucking stupid for a beginner. Do you want to go drifting or do you want to have a project car that you can't drift untill it's complete??? Buy a complete running car, spend your time driving it and your money on track time. All those super awesome shiny parts will come with time. You don't need an SR, you need to learn how to drive the KA. Once you've gotten to the point where you feel that the KA is holding you back, then upgrade.

Take every single piece of advice that you get with a grain of salt. Assume everyone else is a jackass and doesn't know WTF they're talking about. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH!!! Over time you will figure out who knows WTF they're talking about and who doesn't. Once again, ONLY EXPERIENCE can teach you that.

Lol come on man i thought my advice was pretty fantastic. But hes totally right a lot of what you read is people just like you that dont know so you really have to search for the hard facts and do trial and error

PoorMans180SX
11-20-2013, 05:14 PM
What you are doing, here in this thread, is generally highly frowned upon here on Zilvia. We emphasize research and searching for yourself. We get offended/pissy when someone simply wants answers handed to them. We all started off with not a lot of knowledge on this subject ourselves. The difference is the older guys didn't have easy answers at our fingertips. we spent our time browsing Japanese websites that we couldn't even read to find out what parts were out there somewhere. We couldn't post a dumbass thread asking for info on a spoon, it wasn't there.THAT'S our attitude. It's not that we mind helping people. It's just that we get sick of seeing the same threads and questions posted over and over again. It's about RESPECT, which is something that's no longer taught to kids IMO.

This edited version of your post should be copy and pasted into newb threads and then the threads should be locked. Zilvia's problems solved.

To throw my two cents in on this thread, here's what I always recommend to people that are just starting.

1. Coilovers (Yes, over springs and shocks IMO)
2. Solid subframe bushings
3. Tension rods
4. Tension rod brace
5. Bucket seat
6. An alignment with zero toe all around, and at least 2-3* of negative camber in the front

These six things make the car incredibly more consistent, which in turn makes it easier and less frustrating to learn with.

racepar1
11-20-2013, 08:21 PM
Lol come on man i thought my advice was pretty fantastic. But hes totally right a lot of what you read is people just like you that dont know so you really have to search for the hard facts and do trial and error

Says the guy who's thread on what's under the KADE intake mani needed like 20 corrections from myself...

Why did you feel it necessary to take my post as a personal attack against yourself? I didn't quote anyone, I used a random example that stuck out in my mind. I don't even know if you gave the kid the TERRIBLE advice to go out and buy a shell or not. I don't feel the need to look either...

DJ-of-E
11-20-2013, 09:47 PM
OP needs to just say "fuck it" to drifting and just start off with AUTO-X events with SCCA with a stock car.

Baby steps, sir, baby steps. Hell, I would put modding the 240sx on hold while you're in school with 2 jobs. I know, I've been there and held off modding for a better college life.

My dad once said this "Don't be a slave to a car."

zangetsu1223
11-21-2013, 12:43 PM
You've got a much better attitude than most of these jackasses now-a-days, I can commend you on that at least. You've really got to do your own research though man. I'm reading the posts from these "helpful" and "friendly" members and just shaking my head. Most of these guys really don't know enough to give you an real relevant advice. Most of them hardly know any more than you do. For example, buy a rolling shell and swap an SR? That's fucking stupid for a beginner. Do you want to go drifting or do you want to have a project car that you can't drift untill it's complete??? Buy a complete running car, spend your time driving it and your money on track time. All those super awesome shiny parts will come with time. You don't need an SR, you need to learn how to drive the KA. Once you've gotten to the point where you feel that the KA is holding you back, then upgrade.

Take every single piece of advice that you get with a grain of salt. Assume everyone else is a jackass and doesn't know WTF they're talking about. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH!!! Over time you will figure out who knows WTF they're talking about and who doesn't. Once again, ONLY EXPERIENCE can teach you that.

yeah i totally agree with you on that plus im also the kind of person that learns more from experience..

and also i use this method..i list all of the mods that would help me greatly compare each one and then look and research about the stuff that pops up the most like the differentials..

ohh im not looking at things like swaps right now..that comes years later..also, getting a shell wont make any sense for me cuz then i wont be able to drive it right away and like u said im a beginner so the best thing for me to start with is stock and lots of seat time..

i want a car thats got a decent amount of ponies but handles well..




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-21-2013, 12:44 PM
OP needs a running and driving ka or sr powered s13 to start off with.

agreed!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-21-2013, 12:46 PM
This edited version of your post should be copy and pasted into newb threads and then the threads should be locked. Zilvia's problems solved.

To throw my two cents in on this thread, here's what I always recommend to people that are just starting.

1. Coilovers (Yes, over springs and shocks IMO)
2. Solid subframe bushings
3. Tension rods
4. Tension rod brace
5. Bucket seat
6. An alignment with zero toe all around, and at least 2-3* of negative camber in the front

These six things make the car incredibly more consistent, which in turn makes it easier and less frustrating to learn with.

where do you get these parts though? and ohh yeah i saw your build and its pretty sick..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-21-2013, 12:52 PM
OP needs to just say "fuck it" to drifting and just start off with AUTO-X events with SCCA with a stock car.

Baby steps, sir, baby steps. Hell, I would put modding the 240sx on hold while you're in school with 2 jobs. I know, I've been there and held off modding for a better college life.

My dad once said this "Don't be a slave to a car."

actually i looked into auto x too before i decided to go drifting cuz a couple of my buddies are participating there..

yeah i considered holding off too..i mean when you get into this kind of stuff you need to consider like everything before you decide but what im gonna do is get a car by nxt year hopefully by march or april and then take a little break and dont put any mods on it yet cuz once you got it, its not gonna go anywhere..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

sleepyS14se
11-21-2013, 01:03 PM
where do you get these parts though? and ohh yeah i saw your build and its pretty sick..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)


frsport.com
enjukuracing.com
stance-usa.com
poweredbymax.com


just to name a few... theres are loads of vendors on here that advertise alot on here... also you can get discounts for being a member (on zilvia) on some sites.

sleepyS14se
11-21-2013, 01:12 PM
tein has some really good inner and outer tie rod ends.

VegasDrifterS13
11-21-2013, 01:40 PM
tein has some really good inner and outer tie rod ends.



Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Yes they do. No Buckling from lock to lock in burly transitions. I have them on my car. Very pleased.

tauntdevil
11-21-2013, 01:44 PM
I dont understand why this thread is so long when its an easy answer especially to someone who just wants to start out.

Once you have the S chassis,
Just get your diff welded and go to a track to start sliding.
If you can afford it, get some coils and arms to try and lower the center of gravity to make it a bit easier to control and feel.

really is that simple.

As far as engine selection it just depends if you want the car to do the work or if you want to learn how to control the car.

GabeS14
11-21-2013, 02:00 PM
For example, buy a rolling shell and swap an SR? That's fucking stupid for a beginner. Do you want to go drifting or do you want to have a project car that you can't drift untill it's complete??? Buy a complete running car, spend your time driving it and your money on track time. All those super awesome shiny parts will come with time. You don't need an SR, you need to learn how to drive the KA. Once you've gotten to the point where you feel that the KA is holding you back, then upgrade. .

this is the best advice given so far!! even tho he bashed you a bit...eventually his knowledge did come out just right!

and that was exactley what i was going to sugest.
I spent 1.5 years building my first car into an sr car without driving it because i thought i needed a turbo car...so much time waisted..

buy a good running car $2-3k, not an incomplete project.... learn to drive it well, and if you buy anything first make it coilovers.$1000
dont buy megans...buy stance/pbm/bc etc...
welding the diff or getting a vlsd also could be 1st or 2nd thing..

after you feel you can drive the hell out of it and you have gone to multiple track events....is when you should bother with engine and more power.

GUZZLE7
11-21-2013, 04:18 PM
Says the guy who's thread on what's under the KADE intake mani needed like 20 corrections from myself...

Why did you feel it necessary to take my post as a personal attack against yourself? I didn't quote anyone, I used a random example that stuck out in my mind. I don't even know if you gave the kid the TERRIBLE advice to go out and buy a shell or not. I don't feel the need to look either...

lol i was just messin around. damn your brutal. and come on man it was only like 19 corrections. i appreciate the corrections tho i needed the information

racepar1
11-21-2013, 11:05 PM
lol i was just messin around. damn your brutal. and come on man it was only like 19 corrections. i appreciate the corrections tho i needed the information

WOW, that's the second noob that I've run into in this thread that actually has a good attitude and doesn't take everything straight up the ass. Kudos!

:bow:

I didn't catch the sarcasm there. Remember, sarcasm doesn't translate well with nothing but text. You've gotta be pretty obvious to get that across. I prefer "smileys", they do the trick nicely!

GUZZLE7
11-22-2013, 04:07 AM
WOW, that's the second noob that I've run into in this thread that actually has a good attitude and doesn't take everything straight up the ass. Kudos!

:bow:

I didn't catch the sarcasm there. Remember, sarcasm doesn't translate well with nothing but text. You've gotta be pretty obvious to get that across. I prefer "smileys", they do the trick nicely!

Haha good does this mean im on your good side now? because im probably going to need some of your help and knowledge in the future. And woahh bro im not just a Noob im like a Journeyman Noob, almost a Master Noob :wiggle: (did i do good with the sarcasm there?)

serious_student
11-25-2013, 12:36 AM
Man, this industry really has filled up with snobs over the years. Only a few people in this entire thread offered this kid some help. Weren't we all new to this game at one point? I worked on my first 240 12 years ago. I bought it for 400 bucks from an ad I read in a newspaper. Yeah son, an actual newspaper. I had a friend who had been stationed in Japan while on tour in the Air Force. I asked him a million questions about drifting and s chassis setup. He answered all of my questions and was genuinely helpful. I am guessing that is the type of treatment this kid was expecting when he posted his question. This industry needs less assholes and more mentors. How else can we grow? People should be excited to jump into the car scene because of how they are treated. People shouldn't think "screw getting an S chassis, people who drive them are dicks."

So here ya go kid:

First of all, I am assuming you want to drift a car at events and learn how to drive well.

1. find a mechanically sound car. Have a qualified person or a mechanic inspect it. Make sure the frame is straight. Buy a car with dents, they are cheaper. You don't need a flashy car with bodykits and wheels because you're going to smash it up anyways. Don't spend more than 1500 bucks on your first one, watch out for salvage titles and cars with back fees.

2. Change you own oil, learn about the ins and outs of the car. take it apart, put it back together, have someone watch over your work who knows what they are doing.

3. Buy new brake pads that grip hard and used coilovers of a decent quality, not some garbage from ebay. Buy rear adjustable control arms, used. Now you can set up your camber. have someone help you set it up. Get a drift spin knob and disable your e brake button, and tighten the 10mm nut in the e-brake handle until the brake grabs nice and crisp.

4. get a used bucket seat to hold your little ass in place.


There you go. decent bare bones drift car setup for around 2500 bucks. Get a helmet and keep it off the street. Enjoy!

serious_student
11-25-2013, 01:07 AM
Dang, forgot one last piece of advice. Drive. a lot. Stick with that simple setup that I suggested and maybe get a big radiator and a fan since you'll be revving the piss out of your engine. Save all your extra budget for tires and event fees and drive in as many events as possible. Don't try to keep up with the Jones and have a garage queen that is never ready. you'll be 35 and have never driven your car because all your gas money goes into new wheels and bubble dildo shift knobs. Be smart and progressively add to your car according to your budget and skill level. Ok that's it. Go have fun.

sleepyS14se
11-25-2013, 08:36 AM
^ well put

zilvia has way too many bad attitudes and complete a holes. Need more people to give good advice and help people learn instead of hinder them.

keiofficeee
11-25-2013, 09:15 PM
im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?

keiofficeee
11-25-2013, 09:15 PM
wasn't sure whether it should be 1.5 or 2way either..

hope you guys can assist here

oni jake
11-25-2013, 09:17 PM
im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?


That's pretty much all you need to go out and have fun drifting. Make sure all of the safety stuff is up to par. Fix stuff as you break it, because you will break stuff.

edit: 1.5 if you're going to be daily driving it, 2 way if the plan is to eventually make it a full out track car.

Livid_240sx
11-25-2013, 09:19 PM
im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?


You will need a lot of stickers. A LOT.


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

keiofficeee
11-25-2013, 09:28 PM
That's pretty much all you need to go out and have fun drifting. Make sure all of the safety stuff is up to par. Fix stuff as you break it, because you will break stuff.

edit: 1.5 if you're going to be daily driving it, 2 way if the plan is to eventually make it a full out track car.

no problem, thanks. guess ill hunt for an LSD this week

keiofficeee
11-25-2013, 09:29 PM
You will need a lot of stickers. A LOT.


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

i had A LOT of stickers on my JZX100, didn't help apart from efame and street cred

Livid_240sx
11-25-2013, 09:30 PM
no problem, thanks. guess ill hunt for an LSD this week

I've read s15 lsd's give you better torque.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Livid_240sx
11-25-2013, 09:32 PM
i had A LOT of stickers on my JZX100, didn't help apart from efame and street cred

You obviously didn't have enough, or the right kind. Each sticker that incorporates "clean","dirty","jdm" or "drift" nets about +10hp and +10 torque.



Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

sleepyS14se
11-26-2013, 08:08 AM
You obviously didn't have enough, or the right kind. Each sticker that incorporates "clean","dirty","jdm" or "drift" nets about +10hp and +10 torque.



Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


you need to stop lol... :mrmeph:

LOL...

Livid_240sx
11-26-2013, 08:19 AM
you need to stop lol... :mrmeph:

LOL...

Bandaids net +20 hp & torque.

Bro, I'm at 10,700 whp! And 21,000 foot torque! My sx does backflips yo!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

bataangpinoy
11-26-2013, 09:25 AM
yo bro i see you are a pinoy too..appreciate all the info but how does each stages of clutch differ from each other?..also, is your family safe back home?..heard what happened..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)


there are oem replacement clutches, then the staged clutches.

all the stages refer to are the HP and TQ capacity of the clutch. And then you have to take into account the pad material type, full face disk vs pucked disk, sprung vs unsprung hub..

just get the exedy stage 2. Or, if you have a ka24de car, go for the white bunny kit.


my family in tac made it out ok, but they lost everything..

sleepyS14se
11-26-2013, 11:01 AM
the white bunny kit looks good to me...

Livid_240sx
11-26-2013, 11:38 AM
Hey sleepy, I see you're a honda mechanic. I'm having an issue with my 2000 civic si, it's idle is spiking and dropping. Fluctuations are between 1-2,000 rpms. Goes up and drops goes up then drops. Does this even when warm, the ecu tries to compensate and it'll start to "thump" at 1500-1600 rpms. I got a p0505 C.E.L code. Thats a I.A.C but that's obviously not the problem, since I changed the I.A.C and I'm still having issues. Could it be an o2 sensor on my highflow cat? Ideas?

My ideas are:
I.A.C
Throttle control valve
Fast idle valve
The cat o2 sensor.
Ecu?


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

sleepyS14se
11-26-2013, 11:58 AM
Hey sleepy, I see you're a honda mechanic. I'm having an issue with my 2000 civic si, it's idle is spiking and dropping. Fluctuations are between 1-2,000 rpms. Goes up and drops goes up then drops. Does this even when warm, the ecu tries to compensate and it'll start to "thump" at 1500-1600 rpms. I got a p0505 C.E.L code. Thats a I.A.C but that's obviously not the problem, since I changed the I.A.C and I'm still having issues. Could it be an o2 sensor on my highflow cat? Ideas?

My ideas are:
I.A.C
Throttle control valve
Fast idle valve
The cat o2 sensor.
Ecu?


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

FITV is ur prob

locate this which is on the bottom of the throttle body(10mm bolts x3)
http://i39.tinypic.com/nmcbaq.jpg

take these 2 screws out


http://i42.tinypic.com/2dkjxae.jpg

see the white wafer thats looks like it would spin with a huge flat head? you need to turn it clockwise being very careful. turn it clockwise til it bottoms out and stops turning. At this time you need to BACK it out (turn it counter clockwise) about 3/4 of a turn (1 whole turn is ok too)

another image for ya:

http://i43.tinypic.com/2mpl5yw.jpg


you can send payment to me via paypal for me helping ya...LOL JK man...

do this process and enjoy your smooth 700rpm idle. NOTE: idle may be between 675-800, anything above of below that feel free to PM me.:wavey:

racepar1
11-26-2013, 06:43 PM
im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?

The only items that would be important besides those are a bucket seat and an upgraded clutch.

wasn't sure whether it should be 1.5 or 2way either..

hope you guys can assist here

Most drift guys go with 1.5 way LSD's now. It's really not that important though. If you find a deal on a 2-way, go for it.

sleepyS14se
11-27-2013, 08:47 AM
can someone clear up some misleading info i am reading online about installing the bucket seat.

I aqquired a corbeau racing seat and a pyrotect racing 3" harness but i am confused on how to install the aftermarket racing belts.

My s14 has no roll cage is all stock on the interior...what do i do with these seat belts???! I dont wanna break my back of get injured from having insalled incorrectly.

DJ-of-E
11-27-2013, 09:53 AM
can someone clear up some misleading info i am reading online about installing the bucket seat.

I aqquired a corbeau racing seat and a pyrotect racing 3" harness but i am confused on how to install the aftermarket racing belts.

My s14 has no roll cage is all stock on the interior...what do i do with these seat belts???! I dont wanna break my back of get injured from having insalled incorrectly.

Don't bother with a harness if you do not have a roll cage. Them harness bars are close to useless on impact unless you have at least a half cage.

Seriously, everyone should just join SCCA for their local track and auto-x, you learn more than a bunch of yahoos here in Zilvia.

zangetsu1223
11-27-2013, 10:28 AM
Bandaids net +20 hp & torque.

Bro, I'm at 10,700 whp! And 21,000 foot torque! My sx does backflips yo!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

LOL +10 hp guaranteed! hahah cracked me
up during class..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

zangetsu1223
11-27-2013, 10:33 AM
there are oem replacement clutches, then the staged clutches.

all the stages refer to are the HP and TQ capacity of the clutch. And then you have to take into account the pad material type, full face disk vs pucked disk, sprung vs unsprung hub..

just get the exedy stage 2. Or, if you have a ka24de car, go for the white bunny kit.


my family in tac made it out ok, but they lost everything..

thats good bro that you're family made it out..that typhoon shit is terrible yo..

ok i'll look into those clutches especially that stage 2 exedy and that white bunny kit..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

sleepyS14se
11-27-2013, 10:41 AM
Don't bother with a harness if you do not have a roll cage. Them harness bars are close to useless on impact unless you have at least a half cage.

Seriously, everyone should just join SCCA for their local track and auto-x, you learn more than a bunch of yahoos here in Zilvia.



so i can still utilize my oem belt set up when using a racing seat?? how the hell would that work, as far as routing the belts...

any images you know of that would show what routing people do with the oe belts?

sorry for my noobness. :(

Zenki_Kouki.5
11-30-2013, 05:22 AM
Heres my set up drifting with a stock 95 KA24DE
Intake, Exhaust , Zoom Stage 2 4 Puck clutch ,aluminum rad , e fans , short shifter, with all the emissions deleted.
Suspension :
Megan Track Coilovers, Cusco Front strut Bar, Some God speed tension rods, and stance subframe bushings and a welded diff.
This setup was good enough for me and lasted since 2010 ,

oni jake
12-01-2013, 02:17 AM
so i can still utilize my oem belt set up when using a racing seat?? how the hell would that work, as far as routing the belts...

any images you know of that would show what routing people do with the oe belts?

sorry for my noobness. :(

How do you think it will work? As long as you can bolt up the latch, you can use the oem belt with most seats.

Jites
12-17-2013, 04:53 PM
oh man... some good shit in this thread.

I use a bucket seat with oem seatbelt. its not that hard really... just like normal only you dont have to hold yourself in the seat while you do boss skids and make all the bitches gush everywhere.

if you are lucky enough to have a few bright green and purple LED's in your car watch out. might as well come in swimming shorts as bitches will be gushing that much in your ride

Livid_240sx
12-17-2013, 05:32 PM
oh man... some good shit in this thread.

I use a bucket seat with oem seatbelt. its not that hard really... just like normal only you dont have to hold yourself in the seat while you do boss skids and make all the bitches gush everywhere.

if you are lucky enough to have a few bright green and purple LED's in your car watch out. might as well come in swimming shorts as bitches will be gushing that much in your ride



Do you have stickers?

Bitches love the stickers.

Jites
12-17-2013, 06:05 PM
yeah bro. got stickers on your dash? that shit blows their minds dude. instant gush.

Young0327
12-21-2013, 08:37 AM
OP, I've been thumbing through these pages reading everyones insight on a build for a good beginner drift car. I would just like to add my own personal input into this. Take it as you may, I just figured it wouldn't hurt to share it.

For starters, I have never actually built a drift car, nor have I legitimately drifted a car. I have done little stuff in the snow and whatnot, but never actually drifted.

Now, that being said, I'd like to step into the world of drifting and have quite a few friends that do it. My friend Tyler has been doing it, competitively and just for fun, since 2006. I have personally talked to people such as Forrest Wang, Garret Nikolich, Josh Steele, Nate Hamilton, Will Parsons, Brad Burnett, etc. (All of them are competitive drivers, some even in the Fomula Drift circuit)

The one thing that all have them have told me about getting into the drifting "scene" is to buy a car and spend my money driving it. They have all made it a point to tell me that I wouldn't get any better at it by spending my money to modify my car to drift, rather than spending the money to go to events and learn and refine my skills and get better. They've also said that it's good to start with something low power with basic modifications, and then upgrade as necessary.

The basic modifications that they have told me would be good for a beginner to learn with were:
1. Decent coilovers
2. A welded diff
3. A comfortable steering wheel
4. Seat time

In closing, I'd basically like to sum things up by saying, why worry about spending all your money on buying parts and "building" a drift car that you wouldn't be driving, rather than spending as much time on the track as possible? To me, that sounds like some solid advice. Get the car, do the basic modifications, and then just go out and drive the piss out of it and have some fun.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

namawon
12-22-2013, 09:06 PM
Dude.
crappy s13
weld your diff
go drifting

zangetsu1223
12-23-2013, 12:30 AM
thats actually a good advice and thata exactly what im gonna do..im not gonna build a car from ground up..im gonna get a running car with a decent body then do the basic stuff to it..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

240boi115
12-23-2013, 01:03 AM
I've read s15 lsd's give you better torque.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

no. they are just newer, feel more responsive and lock up better than a vlsd. it does nothing to your tourque except distribute it better to the rear wheels.as for the 1.5 vs 2 way? 1.5's are used more for track, grip, and time attack cars while 2 ways are more popular in the drift scene. both essentially do the same thing in slightly different ways...

zangetsu1223
12-23-2013, 11:36 AM
Dude.
crappy s13
weld your diff
go drifting


yo dude i am actually considering the car you're selling..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

240boi115
12-23-2013, 01:55 PM
I also want to point out that you can indeed drift a civic but it's not cheap. How? Well first off that whole rip the ebrake shit is stupid. That's power sliding not drifting. Anywho to drift a civic you need a 4wd crv motor and drivetrain, custom fab it into the chassis because civics weren't designed to have rear axles and shit (duh!) remove the front axles of the drivetrain
Brace the rear a bit and your good to go. Some guy in Japan did this and honestly it's a true head turner to see a civic get mad sideways. I had to replay the video like 7 times! Haha

Livid_240sx
12-23-2013, 01:57 PM
I also want to point out that you can indeed drift a civic but it's not cheap. How? Well first off that whole rip the ebrake shit is stupid. That's power sliding not drifting. Anywho to drift a civic you need a 4wd crv motor and drivetrain, custom fab it into the chassis because civics weren't designed to have rear axles and shit (duh!) remove the front axles of the drivetrain
Brace the rear a bit and your good to go. Some guy in Japan did this and honestly it's a true head turner to see a civic get mad sideways. I had to replay the video like 7 times! Haha

I've seen sr swapped civics, s2000 engines swapped in too. Might try this with my EM1 after college.



Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

240boi115
12-23-2013, 01:58 PM
I've seen sr swapped civics, s2000 engines swapped in too. Might try this with my EM1 after college.



Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

They are sick swaps but if you don't have moola it's not something I suggest going half ass on.

Livid_240sx
12-23-2013, 02:21 PM
They are sick swaps but if you don't have moola it's not something I suggest going half ass on.

I'd do it myself, take my time.

Might even leave the front wheel drive in too, rally the fuck out of it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

sleepyS14se
12-23-2013, 04:39 PM
i am a honda guy and have been there done that with the whole crv rear subframe in a civic and i can tell you now that you will not be drifting in ANY civic with a crv awd setup.

It utilizes a FWD trans with a small output shaft that drives the rear wheels. Without major modification this system acts as a traction control rather than a 4wd syatem you guys are thinking about.

the cv shafts in the rear are smaller than your pinkie finger and break with anything over 210whp. And TBH, 200whp is not enough power to drift with using the said set up.

The whole 4wd/awd civic idea is trash so yeaaahhh. If there was a way to utilize a RWD set-up that incorporates a fwd output the drive the front wheels would be ideal, but a cr-v setup will not get you sideways in a honda.

sleepyS14se
12-23-2013, 04:42 PM
Also would like to add:

The oem awd trans does not Provide ANY torque to the rear wheels UNTIL a front wheel spins. And when it does send power to the rear it is less than 25% so at that time you would get maybe 70% to the front wheels and at max 30% hp the rear and thats guessing high numbers for the rear.

Livid_240sx
12-23-2013, 05:05 PM
Also would like to add:

The oem awd trans does not Provide ANY torque to the rear wheels UNTIL a front wheel spins. And when it does send power to the rear it is less than 25% so at that time you would get maybe 70% to the front wheels and at max 30% hp the rear and thats guessing high numbers for the rear.

Well aren't you a buzzkill.... lol jk.I knew about the passive AWD, but didn't know about the thin drive shaft. Good info.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

VegasDrifterS13
12-23-2013, 05:41 PM
i am a honda guy and have been there done that with the whole crv rear subframe in a civic and i can tell you now that you will not be drifting in ANY civic with a crv awd setup.

It utilizes a FWD trans with a small output shaft that drives the rear wheels. Without major modification this system acts as a traction control rather than a 4wd syatem you guys are thinking about.

the cv shafts in the rear are smaller than your pinkie finger and break with anything over 210whp. And TBH, 200whp is not enough power to drift with using the said set up.

The whole 4wd/awd civic idea is trash so yeaaahhh. If there was a way to utilize a RWD set-up that incorporates a fwd output the drive the front wheels would be ideal, but a cr-v setup will not get you sideways in a honda.

These guys I know in St. George, Utah Built a CRX with an EVO 8 4G63 AWD Setup. At 13psi bone stock everything except downpipe/straightpipe & FMIC It laid down 326hp / 306ft. Lbs. It was setup 30/70% F/R. That little Muthafugga was fast. Cornerweighted to a nice 55/45 ratio at 17xxLbs caged and all. It drifted ok, but was a monster on an autoX track or drag strip.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

DenkiMan!
04-14-2014, 04:59 PM
a couple overnight parts from Japan and boom

NgS93jelnzo

dorkidori_s13
04-14-2014, 05:01 PM
How this thread wasnt locked after 2 posts is beyond me... and now its been dug up from the dead!

ugh, LOCKED!!!