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bmar19
07-19-2013, 07:30 PM
ok so i need a tune for sure no doubt but will that fix my idle and drive? HAS NO TUNE YET so im sure it will be better once i get it?

when i drive (which i dont cause it needs a tune but once) it stalls out when i let off the gas coming to a stop..normal?

also my shifter im pretty sure i need a new one lol but take a look what do you suggest...just go short shifter and it will be fixed? and what brand ive seen isis and B&M but just wondering what is good...

please help

t3 turbo, stock compression rebuilt motor 1500k miles (eagle pistons, CP rods, arp bolts, metal cosmetic gasket, spark plugs not gapped), i have nismo 550cc injectors not installed yet cant remeber whats on the car now might be stock not sure, stock MAF (but i have the z32 for tune)
down pipe is open i need to weld

guys please help i attached videos of the idle and shifter take a look

it idles better with AC on
btw its a 95 SE so its obd1 right?

please no insults i need help and yes ive searched.... any questions just ask thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c75VcP0DXCw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukl8i7ORuXg

bmar19
07-19-2013, 08:15 PM
please check out myvids thanks

waxball88
07-19-2013, 08:30 PM
You really gotta stop with all this thread making shit dude, you are having one of the most discussed issues with Kat draw through maf set ups. Google, ka-t.org. You're going to run this car into the ground if you have to be spoon fed when anything goes wrong. Learn about boosted cars is what the educated person would do especially before Buying a non factory turbo car with a turbo set up. You better get reading and researching
Or to be blunt, you're fucked

StryfeS13
07-19-2013, 08:31 PM
1. You need a tune and a wideband, pronto
2. MAF is too close to turbo
3. If you are venting your blow off valve to atmosphere then that's why it stalls
4. If you dont have an aftermarket high lph fuel pump you need one
5. Gap your plugs to .028

bmar19
07-19-2013, 09:06 PM
waxball88 what its a bad setup where the maf is?ive been on kat.org i always gotta wait for permission lol

i have a 255 pump

yeah i knew the maf is too close i figured from all the other set ups...i should move it right behind the cone filter right?

wideband uego is on the way...waiting for enthalpy to contact me :/

waxball88
07-19-2013, 09:55 PM
I'm really not sure if you're trolling or you actually are as dense as you seem...
Stalling on deceleration, due to running your bov after maf. First thing that comes up when you google that issue. It will tell you to run blow through or recirculate your blow off valve.
Or if you read two or three threads, they will tell you your maf should be at least 12-16in away from your turbo and it's recommended to have at least one 90* bend
You're being the kid that cries wolf, you're asking questions that have been covered hundreds of times and are quite the forum nuisance, so people are not going to want to help you. This is the last thread I will attempt to help you in.
Would you like some more bmar?
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/waxball88/75ED736F-AEB2-4B13-B8C9-20DF73E4114E-7212-00000328EB9393E3_zpsb51a0ec0.jpg
That's a good boy

bmar19
07-19-2013, 10:22 PM
good looks waxball88 thanks...i understand not helping but atleast direct someone with a link lol but most of you guys talk so much crap through a computer lol be harsh but guide as well...like you..thanks for the info! deff changing the maf location (kinda knew that from pics lol) and ill read up on the bov issue

Kingtal0n
07-19-2013, 10:43 PM
Are you running stock injectors, stock maf, stock ECU?

If so, the car will drive like stock, if you move that maf away from the turbocharger.
It will also run lean during boost. So, do not boost. Just drive it normal until you can get:

larger injectors, a computer to tune with, and a large enough maf to meet your power goals. A fuel pump is a GIVEN with any performance setup, whether its turbo or naturally aspirated, you always want a high quality fuel delivery system.

You do not want a rom tune because you are not familiar with engines at all, and rom tunes often require finesse, mechanic knowledge to be dialed in properly. And buying any kind of stand alone would be a waste of cash. Seems like your only option is a SAFC and 5-psi of boost for safety.

If the motor is OEM I would go 5psi + safc route and some 370cc injectors. Drive it like that around 200 horsepower. If your goal is for MORE power, then either SR20DET swap the car (because your are not mechanically inclined, using an OEM computer with an OEM turbocharger is your best friend) or actually dump the $1000+ on a real stand alone and pay someone to tune it.

edit: I just read your engine has forged parts. Are you sure it has forged pistons? Or someone just told you that. Did you actually pay for the forged parts and then pay someone to install them?

If it has forged parts, then the compression ratio needs to be known before you choose how much boost on pump gas. Also you do need a real stand alone to get the most out of the setup. Also the size of that turbo's compressor needs to be known before you know what to expect. These are things you come back to us with: turbo size, and budget. Looks like you need 740cc injectors, fuel pump, afpr, stand alone, Z32 maf, tuning. About $2000 in parts + tuning to get 280-420 horsepower.

the shifter appears to be missing the bushing. Remove the shifter and install a new shifter bushing from nissan, they are very cheap. use the OEM shifter. You also want to finish the exhaust system before you do anything else. If your engine was really rebuilt you need to listen to it carefully. I would install the stock exhaust system for the time being so you can actually hear it. Forged pistons often have a characteristic sound at certain loads.

bmar19
07-19-2013, 10:56 PM
no its not forged...
it has a 255 pump
is 550cc enough?
and im going with martins tune from enthalpy

bmar19
07-19-2013, 10:56 PM
its just a rebuilt engine..... 10.1 compression

why oem parts just curious...short shifter isnt worth it?

Kingtal0n
07-20-2013, 12:07 AM
its just a rebuilt engine..... 10.1 compression

why oem parts just curious...short shifter isnt worth it?

You said
", stock compression rebuilt motor 1500k miles (eagle pistons, CP rods, "

Eagle makes rods. CP makes pistons.
that said, Eagle rods and CP pistons are forged parts.

Also, the compression ratio doesnt make sense. Nobody puts CP pistons into a KA or SR engine at 10:1 compression. That is not stock compression.

You need to figure out what is in your engine first.

bmar19
07-20-2013, 12:54 AM
.............. Lemme check

bmar19
07-20-2013, 11:26 AM
Ok so here's the text I just for from him this morning. Sorry about the confusion "Ok stock valve train ported n polished head shaved and resurfaced cp pistons eagle rods stock crank micro polished n balanced bored .30 over. Stock fuel preasure regulator stock fuel rail."

Turbo is .50 front. And .68 rear

Kingtal0n
07-20-2013, 04:40 PM
We still dont know the compression ratio. Get the part number of the piston, and find out how much the head was decked.

bmar19
07-20-2013, 10:24 PM
Ok the compression ratio is 10.1 he hasn't gotten back to me about the head decking. And if he even did deck it. Idk. This sucks. I'm getting the enthalpy and safc 2

Kingtal0n
07-21-2013, 01:56 AM
Ok the compression ratio is 10.1 he hasn't gotten back to me about the head decking. And if he even did deck it. Idk. This sucks. I'm getting the enthalpy and safc 2

That compression doesnt make sense. Nobody builds a turbo engine for 10:1 compression unless its race gas only. You are going to blow it sky high if you try to turn the boost past 5psi.

bmar19
07-21-2013, 02:04 AM
it was a na build then put turbo

bmar19
07-21-2013, 02:06 AM
what should i do? take off the turbo?

bmar19
07-21-2013, 02:08 AM
look at this shit..im seriously about to lose it... yes a bolt looks loose just saw it today

http://mail.aol.com/37834-111/aol-6/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=29964282&folder=Inbox&partId=6

http://mail.aol.com/37834-111/aol-6/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=29964282&folder=Inbox&partId=0

http://mail.aol.com/37834-111/aol-6/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=29964282&folder=Inbox&partId=2

http://mail.aol.com/37834-111/aol-6/en-us/mail/get-attachment.aspx?uid=29964282&folder=Inbox&partId=4

bmar19
07-21-2013, 03:18 AM
Or couldn't I just get lower compression pistons? Since it is a fresh built motor anyways? And all my seals if that explains the pics smh

waxball88
07-21-2013, 02:16 PM
If you put new pistons in, everything needs to be pulled and disassembled.
And we'll be honest you don't have the know how or tools necessary to do that, so you're looking at a pretty penny

bmar19
07-21-2013, 02:45 PM
um yeah i do lol? i have the engine lift, all the tools i assume this is way easier than my camaro so much space...camaros are super tight....but yeah thanks for that useless information...its .30 over pistons ive been searching and dont find any..thats why i asked if i can throw pistons in...my camaro does .30 over but ka starts at .20 and i havent really seen .30 thats why i asked! thanks waxball

bmar19
07-21-2013, 03:45 PM
UPDATE!!! 86mm metal head gasket and he doesnt know how much it was decked