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View Full Version : Sr Swap Problems....help!


minboostS13
05-04-2004, 06:51 PM
1990 240SX with Redtop SR20DET.
Blitz FMIC
Greddy hotpipe, and Type S BOV
SR20DET MAFS
Blitz Downpipe
FAL dual fans, Koyo radiator.

These are my basic mods, and i figured they might be of some relevence. I turned the key, and she starts but wont idle. Unplug the MAFS, and she wont rev past 2000RPM, but she idles smooth. When i rev her with the mass air plugged in, she stutters real bad, bucks, and tries to die. Out of nowhere, i might get a few seconds of good revving. I obviously changed the MAFS to the stock SOHC KA mass air. I rewired it good, and checked the voltage...its getting power. Ive already gone through three MAFS'. 2 KA's and an SR. I dont think that it could be three bad mass airs. I pulled the fuel line off the filter, and ran a water bottle to the hose and turned the key to see if the fuel pump would spit fuel, and it did. I checked my timing twice already, and its perfect at 15 degrees. Everything lines up, but when i twist the CAS left and right in its hole, it doesnt change a thing. The car runs the same way no matter what i do. I pinched the fuel lines, on both the return line, and the fuel filter line on the injector rail inlet, and nothing changed....she didnt stall or anything. As of right now, im completely lost on what the problem is. Im running an S13 blacktop ECU...code number E5. Apparently, the ECU is supposed to work fine. Wayne at phase 2 told me it would work, and so did heavy throttle. Im trusting they are right since they havent steered me wrong yet. My wiring harness was done by Garage Works LTD, and i trust they did it right. Everything except for the boost selonoid has a mate. The Intercooler piping has been checked for leaks time and time again, and the intake has no leaks after the MAFS. Please give me some advice. I know its almost impossible to diagnos online, but i have noone here to help me. Im from VA Beach, but i got stationed in NJ for awhile due to the war. So as i said, im in the middle of nowhere, and have noone to help guide me. I appreciate all ideas. Thanks again.

sr240mike
05-04-2004, 07:48 PM
Turning the cas would definately change the timing. Even just a small nudge will change it several degrees. The car should definately stall when you pinch the fuel lines, I dont know whats up with that. Next time you could take out the fuse if you need to relieve the pressure. Im not positive but dont you need a dohc maf? Have you run the codes on the ecu yet?

the head
05-05-2004, 02:26 AM
run the codes on the ecu find out if it is picking up anything long flashes are tens shorts are ones (ie two long three short = 23)

minboostS13
05-05-2004, 02:06 PM
Turning the CAS should change the timing yes....that is why im so confused. The ECU and i dont get along....its in japanese, and i dont have a book to cross reference the codes...so even if i did turn the knob, and hope i did it right, i have no way to check and see what codes pop up. But maybe you can guide me through this. As i said, the ECU is in japanese, so it doesnt tell me which way to turn the little knob to check for codes. Is it the same as the KA ECU? As far as the MAFS goes, im using the SOHC MAFS. I have a Redtop SR, and i was told the DOHC mass air wouldnt work. I was told the DOHC mass air is used on the blacktop SR. Would it matter if im using the S13 Blacktop ECU with a Redtop motor to use the DOHC MAFS? A guy i know has a scanner for foriegn ECUs he said. Im not sure if ti will work on nissan ECUs, but he said it will work. He will be here next week with the scanner to check it out. I hope it works. Let me ask you this.... I do have the Greddy Type S BOV, and since i dont have the SR intake pipe, im using an aluminum bend for an intake with the filter and MAFS attached. Therefore, the BOV is NOT recirculated. I was told by several people not to worry about that, because you can run an atmospheric dump. But these people dont have a clue what an SR20 is. Do you think having the BOV recircultaed would make that much of a difference? If so, that could be a major problem, if not, its a fuel or timing problem. Once again, i appreciate everyones input in helping me get to the bottom of this. Buudweizerr refferred me to this site, and now i can see why. Thanks.

tommy_thrash
05-05-2004, 09:12 PM
dude Im having the exact same problem, its scary. I have tried everything you said also and I have gotten nowhere and it is annoying the crap out of me. I have a 89 auto 240 that I have converted to 5-speed and a auto SR harness and auto ECU unit but I was told that they would work.I also have a greddy VSPL intercooler kit w/greedy hot pipe and a apexi twin chamber bov on it, I have a koyo radiator w/ nismo thermostat and a permacool 16" fan, a Apexi GT spec catback w/ downpipe and test pipe. I changed the bung on the O.2. extention and wired up an 86 300zx turbo O.2. sensor to it, I have a Q45 CA18 ignitor chip wired up and a walbro 255 fuel pump. I have more done to it but i dont think it is relevant to this. All that I can think to do is check the wireing, the CAS maby bad and and I was going to check the compression. All I have noticed is that if I unplug the wire to the 2nd and 3rd coilpack (I think that was the coilpacks I dont remember right now) from the front it still runs the same so it must only be running on 2 cylinders so thats why I thought the CAS might be bad and I might beable to open it up and clean it. Maby we can help each other through this crap.

tommy_thrash
05-06-2004, 05:38 PM
did you find anything out? I am still stuck on mine.

Sphynx
05-07-2004, 02:36 AM
man i never had a car bog like that...
Hmmm have you tried testing your tps if you are getting the right reading...
Check first for codes on your ecu...thats what you need to do...download from the fact section the english fsm from the s14...the ecu set up shouldnt be to much different...at least you know which way to turn the knob...

best bet is to check the codes

gsracer
05-07-2004, 06:31 AM
it sounds like it could be a bad coil pack, try pulling out the coil packs one by one while the car is started to see if there is any change, if there is one or two with no change boom bad coil pack , and oh yeah it doesnt matter that the ecu is in japanese , it could be in martian for all you care all you have to do is count the blikning lights , there posted all over the place and they are pretty much if not completely the same as usa nissan codes. the first thing you should have done anyways is check the codes. ill save you the trouble post the code it gives you here and ill tell you what it is if you like .

minboostS13
05-13-2004, 10:43 PM
Fixed the problem...Three...count em... THREE bad MAFS'. Thanks for the help....as far as you go thrash...ill IM you...minboost S13 on AIM.

the head
05-14-2004, 12:56 PM
just as extra info the ecu fault codes are all listed at http://sr20det.nismo.org/srtech.htm
to go into diag mode turn the screw on the ecu all the way counter clockwise with the car off then flip on the ignition to the run position and turn the all the way clockwise the led on the ecu will begin to flash follow the info at the link provided to figure out the ECU faults