Sr20 timing chain and camshaft issue

[HipHopHippo]

I ended up breaking a rocker arm today. I've never removed a camshaft before and I got too confused/ anxious and removed the bolts that hold the camshaft down. I realized now that I shouldve put the cams in tdc (?) where the colored links are at the 11-1 position, but I tried to do this after I had removed the camshaft bolts. I ended up popping out the camshaft and sprocket out before they were in the right position. What should I do as a next step and how to I make sure that my timing wont be off?

[cotbu]

Remove the chain tensioner, then set it to be installed then put it to the side. Use the new slack to create enough room to put the cam gears back on. if you can along with the tensioner, then set the engine to TDC.

If you can't? continue removing the cams then with both cams removed set the engine to TDC. (I usually move the chain manually when doing this, but you don't have to. It's a superstition of mine) After the cams are out put the gears on, then the rest is FSM procedure. Your tensioner should already be out.

Tip I usually zip tie or pipe cleaner the chain to the cam gear, whenever I do anything that involves the chain.
And when doing the head, I paint the link and gear, just for that quick reassembly aspect.

[HipHopHippo]

Remove the chain tensioner, then set it to be installed then put it to the side. Use the new slack to create enough room to put the cam gears back on. if you can along with the tensioner, then set the engine to TDC.

If you can't? continue removing the cams then with both cams removed set the engine to TDC. (I usually move the chain manually when doing this, but you don't have to. It's a superstition of mine) After the cams are out put the gears on, then the rest is FSM procedure. Your tensioner should already be out.

Tip I usually zip tie or pipe cleaner the chain to the cam gear, whenever I do anything that involves the chain.
And when doing the head, I paint the link and gear, just for that quick reassembly aspect.

Ok if I take the second option and remove both gears, should I still remove the tentioner?

[cotbu]

........yes it helps you install the chain easier, when you reinstall it, it will ratchet out when you make your test rotation

[HipHopHippo]

........yes it helps you install the chain easier, it will ratchet out when you make your test rotation

Ok sorry for my lack of knowledge on this subject, thanks man

[cotbu]

That's what this forum is for, lol!
my short answer was yes so i added the ........, then I edited it for the explanation.

if you're doing this now, just post back if you have any other ?'s or problems

[HipHopHippo]

That's what this forum is for, lol!
my short answer was yes so i added the ........, then I edited it for the explanation.

if you're doing this now, just post back if you have any other ?'s or problems

Yeah Im working on this right now but im going to finish up soon, im going to be working on it everyday until i get it fixed so i will def be posting back on here

[HipHopHippo]

Remove the chain tensioner, then set it to be installed then put it to the side. Use the new slack to create enough room to put the cam gears back on. if you can along with the tensioner, then set the engine to TDC.

If you can't? continue removing the cams then with both cams removed set the engine to TDC. (I usually move the chain manually when doing this, but you don't have to. It's a superstition of mine) After the cams are out put the gears on, then the rest is FSM procedure. Your tensioner should already be out.

Tip I usually zip tie or pipe cleaner the chain to the cam gear, whenever I do anything that involves the chain.
And when doing the head, I paint the link and gear, just for that quick reassembly aspect.

When I removed the cams I removed the gears too, can I set it to tdc without the cams or cam gears in?

[cotbu]

If you can't? continue removing the cams then with both cams removed set the engine to TDC. (I usually move the chain manually when doing this, but you don't have to. It's a superstition of mine) After the cams are out put the gears on, then the rest is FSM procedure. Your tensioner should already be out.
Yes, you should also remove the spark plugs too!

[HipHopHippo]

You're the man

[HipHopHippo]

Do I turn the crankshaft by turning the big lug in the middle? It is too firm to move by hand

[cotbu]

Yes on the crank, That's why you remove the spark plugs, to alleviate some of the compression

[HipHopHippo]

Yes on the crank, That's why you remove the spark plugs, to alleviate some of the compression

nevermind I managed to move it

[HipHopHippo]

Ok so I got it into tdc and the manual shows a picture of two silver links? I only have one orange link

[cotbu]

Don't worry about lining the links up just yet, get the number 1 piston TDC and get the cams installed correctly, with the chain on. Then count the links, 11 links from dot to dot. put the tension in, make a few rotations, you can even try to see if the dots line up, but the main goal is no binding, or abruptly stopping of the crank

[HipHopHippo]

Don't worry about lining the links up just yet, get the number 1 piston TDC and get the cams installed correctly, with the chain on. Then count the links, 11 links from dot to dot. put the tension in, make a few rotations, you can even try to see if the dots line up, but the main goal is no binding, or abruptly stopping of the crank

Im sorry I dont know what Im talking about but what do you mean the number 1 piston? How do I get the piston to tdc?

[HipHopHippo]

Actually do you turn the crankshaft so that the nail is in the second space to the left?

[cotbu]

Looking at the front of the engine and the first piston is number 1
number 1 need to be at TDC, that's aka TDC. Place a 27mm(IIRC) socket on the crank and a screwdriver in the spark plug hole, rotate the crank clockwise until the zero degree mark on the crank comes up, and the screwdriver stops moving up. That's TDC.

Actually do you turn the crankshaft so that the nail is in the second space to the left?
yes

[HipHopHippo]

Ok so now i have the cams in and they dont sit right. When the front of the cams are in with the chain on the backs are in the air

[cotbu]

Do you know the torquing procedure for the cams? You need to follow them. They're in the FSM. The tensioner is still out right? Leave it out until the cams and chain is installed. Also keep an eye on the rocker arms, guide and shims, make sure they stay in place and verify they are still in place when done.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b142/COTBU/camtighten_zps992e6753.jpeg (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/COTBU/media/camtighten_zps992e6753.jpeg.html)

[cotbu]

The cams are up in the air because those valves are the ones that are going to be open, so please follow the fsm tightening procedure or you could strip the threads

[HipHopHippo]

The cams are up in the air because those valves are the ones that are going to be open, so please follow the fsm tightening procedure or you could strip the threads

Oh I know the torquing procedure, I just figured torquing down cams that dont sit perfectly was a bad idea. And when I say cams are in the air I mean the whole rod, not just the lobe

[HipHopHippo]

Are you positive there are 11 links between the two dots?

[cotbu]

Dot to dot, pretty sure

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

is the front part of the camshaft supposed to touch the cas ?

[cotbu]

Is that a trick question? Post some pics of what you're talking about.

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

i have to be missing something here because my cams dont sit right in my head anymore. When I get one to sit right, the other is off

[HipHopHippo]

Is that a trick question? Post some pics of what you're talking about.

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII
alright hang on

[HipHopHippo]

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/ishootyourface96/20130520_212147_zpsbee9ebfd.jpg (http://s742.photobucket.com/user/ishootyourface96/media/20130520_212147_zpsbee9ebfd.jpg.html)

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/ishootyourface96/20130520_212151_zps70dd8521.jpg (http://s742.photobucket.com/user/ishootyourface96/media/20130520_212151_zps70dd8521.jpg.html)

[cotbu]

Everything looks good so far.

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

Everything looks good so far.

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

So its ok that it doesnt just sit down in the head? Can you see the gap between the shaft and the head?

[cotbu]

Yes, just follow the tightening sequence 9-10 then 1-8, dont crank them down to full torque right away follow that fsm snippet I posted
Take out the cas btw, reinstall it after the cams are torqued down

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

I am just so stumped by this whole thing. If your cam gears are in the 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock positions, and the crank is in tdc, does it matter if the colored links line up? Or as long as you get the chain on it in that position it is ok?

[cotbu]

The colored links are really only used for installation of the new chain, of course the links will eventually line up with the dots again, but they don't have too, tdc is the reference, cam dowls at 10 and 12 and 11 links from dot to dot.

So as long as you put the chain on in that position it's ok

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

Ok help me through this,

I have the tensioner, cas, all of that off
I have the crank set to tdc
I have both cams sitting in the head, the intake side is at 11 o'clock and the exhaust side is at 1 o'clock
The chain is not on the gears

How do I get the chain on the gears? it seems like there isnt enough chain to fit both of them in there, and how do I get the chain on while keeping the cams in their current positions? Would it be easier to seperate the cams and the gears and line the gears up on the chain, then reconnect the cams?

[cotbu]

11 links dot to dot

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles/images/IMG_0465_resize.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b142/COTBU/jwtcamistallpdf_zps19cc2c32.jpg

The frsport image is counting the links in between, but if you count the links from dot to dot you get 11
http://www.frsport.com/writeups/poncams/poncam_10.jpg

[HipHopHippo]

11 links dot to dot

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles/images/IMG_0465_resize.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b142/COTBU/jwtcamistallpdf_zps19cc2c32.jpg

The frsport image is counting the links in between, but if you count the links from dot to dot you get 11
http://www.frsport.com/writeups/poncams/poncam_10.jpg

Alright I will give this another try tomorrow

[HipHopHippo]

should I just separate the shafts and the gears? this seems really difficult with the shafts

[cotbu]

You can do it how every you like but once the cams are in don't move that crank, until the chain is on correctly.

[cotbu]

Overview: Your number 1 piston is at TDC
CAS is removed
Chain Tensioner is removed
Camshafts and sprockets are bolted together
Cams are sitting on the correct sides
You can't bolt the camshafts down?
Is there not enough slack to get the cams in the journals with the chain on?
You can put the chain on after the cams are bolted down, but you shouldn't have too.
I really don't see what the problem is right now, Send me a picture of problem.

How many visitors to this thread, have counted the links from dot to dot?

[HipHopHippo]

Overview: Your number 1 piston is at TDC
CAS is removed
Chain Tensioner is removed
Camshafts and sprockets are bolted together
Cams are sitting on the correct sides
You can't bolt the camshafts down?
Is there not enough slack to get the cams in the journals with the chain on?
You can put the chain on after the cams are bolted down, but you shouldn't have too.
I really don't see what the problem is right now, Send me a picture of problem.

How many visitors to this thread, have counted the links from dot to dot?

there isnt enough slack to get the chain around the gears

[cotbu]

The only thing that comes to mind is, maybe the chain is caught on the guide on the right hand side. (was that a lil pooty-tang sounding?) See if you can unsna it.
Or before you install the cams, rotate the crank again and have someone feed the chain through,to see if it's snagged. Then go through the process of setting TDC again

I don't know why this is giving you trouble, are you just waiting for a second opinion?
The picture you posted earlier was normal looking to me, so IDK!!

[HipHopHippo]

The only thing that comes to mind is, maybe the chain is caught on the guide on the right hand side. (was that a lil pooty-tang sounding?) See if you can unsna it.
Or before you install the cams, rotate the crank again and have someone feed the chain through,to see if it's snagged. Then go through the process of setting TDC again

I don't know why this is giving you trouble, are you just waiting for a second opinion?
The picture you posted earlier was normal looking to me, so IDK!!

nah im not waiting for an opinion, Im just a special student. I trying to be really careful, but maybe I'm over thinking it

[HipHopHippo]

Is this Correct?

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/ishootyourface96/20130521_175342_zps9b51ac5f.jpg (http://s742.photobucket.com/user/ishootyourface96/media/20130521_175342_zps9b51ac5f.jpg.html)

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/ishootyourface96/Screenshot_2013-05-21-17-54-30_zpsb8de8858.png (http://s742.photobucket.com/user/ishootyourface96/media/Screenshot_2013-05-21-17-54-30_zpsb8de8858.png.html)

[cotbu]

Your crank is slightly off. Your intake cam, is correct, your exhaust cam is wrong.

[HipHopHippo]

Your crank is slightly off. Your intake cam, is correct, your exhaust cam is wrong.

Ok where do I put them? i thought the crank was supposed to be in the second space to the left and the exhaust cam was supposed to be at 12

[jr_ss]

He should be on an outside link at both "dots", the one on the intake side is obviously between the outside links.

The cam dowel is suppose to be at the 12 position, not the dot. The dot is more so at the 1 position.

The crank is past the TDC mark in your picture as well, which is the second mark from the left.

[HipHopHippo]

He should be on an outside link at both "dots", the one on the intake side is obviously between the outside links.

The cam dowel is suppose to be at the 12 position, not the dot. The dot is more so at the 1 position.

The crank is past the TDC mark in your picture as well, which is the second mark from the left.

oh so its the mark and not the space for the crank?

[cotbu]

His intake cam position appears to be correct the exhaust cam is incorrect, but the exhaust cam and crank are together correct. if he lines up crank TDC and Ex cam dowel 12oclock he will have a solid link on both dots.

[HipHopHippo]

Ok how about now?

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/ishootyourface96/aa2_zps6d97ed63.png (http://s742.photobucket.com/user/ishootyourface96/media/aa2_zps6d97ed63.png.html)

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/ishootyourface96/111_zpsfbc11f32.png (http://s742.photobucket.com/user/ishootyourface96/media/111_zpsfbc11f32.png.html)

[cotbu]

Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay! See all that slack? That's what you where missing by not setting the engine to TDC before you removed the cams.

[HipHopHippo]

is this really it??

[cotbu]

Looks like it, check the rockers, guides and shims. They tend to pop out if you fiddle around with the cams alot.
If you are at tdc that's it! After you bolt down the cams install the tensioner, and cas. make a few rotations on the crank just to make sure everthing is copacetic!

[HipHopHippo]

Looks like it, check the rockers, guides and shims. They tend to pop out if you fiddle around with the cams alot.
If you are at tdc that's it! After you bolt down the cams install the tensioner, and cas. make a few rotations on the crank just to make sure everthing is copacetic!

alright. and again there is a gap between the cam and the groove in the head. is it ok to sort of force the cam in there?

[cotbu]

Yes, just follow the tightening sequence 9-10 then 1-8, dont crank them down to full torque right away follow that fsm snippet I posted. check the rockers, guides and shims. They tend to pop out if you fiddle around with the cams alot

[HipHopHippo]

Is there a way to test it before I put everything back on and torque everything down? Like turn the crank?

[HipHopHippo]

whoopsies i didnt see the other part of that one post

[cotbu]

I would torque then down before you rotate the crank, but check the rocker arms and guide and shims while and after you torque them down.

[cotbu]

Listen for abnormal sounds(clicking and popping)
Feel for binding or anything strange.
Make sure you can account for all the tools you used.

[HipHopHippo]

I very lightly tightened them down and then tried it, Ill go back and torque everything down to specc before I reassemble. It seemed normal, no popping or sudden stops or anything. I had a very slight resistance from what I think was just the cam lobes pushing against the rocker arms, but it was smooth the whole time. Is there another way to test before or am I going to just have to start it?

[cotbu]

That's it. if you installed the tensioner and CAS you're finished, minus valve cover of course. Prime the engine before start up and let us know what it is.

[HipHopHippo]

Yeah I put the Cas and tensioner in, and its 11:45 where I am so I will update you guys tomorrow

[HipHopHippo]

Wait one more dumb question

[HipHopHippo]

What do you mean by prime the engine?

[cotbu]

Crank the engine over a few time with no fuel pump fuse in and the cas disconnected. It will allow the oil pump to pump oil up to the head before start up, so the cams aren't spun dry for too long.

[HipHopHippo]

Ah awesome, thanks man

[HipHopHippo]

I turned it on and it runs but it makes some loud popping noises every few seconds

[cotbu]

Loud popping noise? could be a missing guide or shim if it's in the head, if it's the exhaust get a timing light and time the engine.

[cotbu]

Post a video.

[HipHopHippo]

Post a video.

Ok im on it

[HipHopHippo]

Sr20 issue video for zilvia - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVygYlKY3GE)

[cotbu]

Pull the valve cover off and look at all the rocker arm and make sure all the shims and guides are in place. Then leave the valve cover off and remove the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the cas. Crank the engine over and make sure the oil squirters are squirting oil. There's alot of background noise so I really can pinpoint the sound, but it does sound like a missing shim/guide. I use dfx so I hear the thump thump sound IDK what that is.

[cotbu]

Did you torque down the cam gear bolts per the FSM, the cams themselves are torqued down right?

[HipHopHippo]

Pull the valve cover off and look at all the rocker arm and make sure all the shims and guides are in place. Then leave the valve cover off and remove the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the cas. Crank the engine over and make sure the oil squirters are squirting oil. There's alot of background noise so I really can pinpoint the sound, but it does sound like a missing shim/guide. I use dfx so I hear the thump thump sound IDK what that is.

the shim and guides are what sit on top of the valves right? I double checked all of those but ill check again. do you think I did any permanent damage.

[cotbu]

I don't think so! Did you strip out any of the cam tower bolts? When I picture the sound, I see the cam lifting in my head, causing a clacking sound, this is not always accurate, I just try to picture the sounds from the parts that are involved.

Set the engine to TDC, just in case you find something you should fix.

[HipHopHippo]

no all of the bolt were fine, ill do it again and check back

[HipHopHippo]

if I had done the timing be wrong would it continue to run like it does?

[cotbu]

I'm continuing to listen to the video and now it sounds like the chain tensioner ratcheting out!!! I'm still not sure on the sound, though! Did the tensioner ratchet all the way out when you made you test rotations?

[cotbu]

Pretty sure that's what it is???!!??

UoJ37xCi3KQ

[HipHopHippo]

do you mean did it pop all the way out when I put it in?

[cotbu]

.......Yes, after you make a few rotations, the chain should be tight. during start up oil pressure should help it adjust.

[HipHopHippo]

yes it popped out and tightened up but I will look again in about an hour

[HipHopHippo]

Well I just stripped a head bolt, which i dont really get because I was following the torquing procedure. Do you know where I can buy bolt #10?

[HipHopHippo]

Would this one be the slightly shorter bolts for the cams
Nissan Genuine OEM SR20DE(T) Camshaft Bracket Bolt (http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Genuine-OEM-SR20DE-T--Camshaft-Bracket-Bolt-_p_25731.html)

And one is the slightly longer ones for the corners?
Nissan Genuine OEM SR20DE(T) Camshaft Cap Bolt (http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Genuine-OEM-SR20DE-T--Camshaft-Cap-Bolt-_p_60090.html)

[cotbu]

Yeah, but did you strip the bolt or the threads?

[HipHopHippo]

Yeah, but did you strip the bolt or the threads?

it was just the bolt

[cotbu]

Ok, just grab the appropriate bolt/bolts and get to work, lol.

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

I dropped my oil pan and found what looks like metal shavings, what could that mean?

[HipHopHippo]

Well I can't really tell if they are from the broken rocker or not

[cotbu]

It's not good that you can't verify, but it doesn't mean the end! Curious though, flecks, actual shaved pieces of metal, or glittery oil?

[HipHopHippo]

It's not good that you can't verify, but it doesn't mean the end! Curious though, flecks, actual shaved pieces of metal, or glittery oil?

Well I cant identify because theyre in the oil pan at my house and i didnt think much of them until i was reading and saw something about metal in the oil pan, but if I remember correctly they were small chunks

[cotbu]

When you get a chance fish them out with a magnet/strainer.
You did change the oil, correct? I didn't really address the broken rocker arm issue, just assumed it was sorted already. Piece the rocker back together if you can, find out how much is missing. I've broken a rocker before it was only in 2 pieces, but i still flushed. I recommend 2 changes of cheap oil with a fram filter. so it would be new oil, start up and whatever your doing that day with the car then, change it! Then repeat, with better oil and filter.

[HipHopHippo]

It shouldn't be a piston though right? My car ran like money all the way up until I broke the rocker arm. Right after I broke the arm it made a similar tick noise and when I turned it on agai after replacing tbe arm it was louder

[HipHopHippo]

And alright, I already bought a new oil filter and more oil and picked the stronger but I broke the oil Pan on the way out so now I have to wait for the internet companies to send that too

[cotbu]

No it shouldn't, but i don't know for sure. Piecing it together might help you find out what it is.
LOL!

[HipHopHippo]

Ok so good news I mistaked pieces of silicone for pieces of metal and there isnt any actual big chunks mixed in, but there is a little bit of glitter in the oil pan

[cotbu]

That's better, I would have expected the glitter.

[HipHopHippo]

That's better, I would have expected the glitter.

Whats the glitter from? The rocker?

[cotbu]

That's what I'm assuming, but it could be from anything.
That's also why your going to do the flush. If after the last change before good oil and filter are used, there is still glitter, then maybe it's from something other than the valve train.

[HipHopHippo]

Heres another video, can you hear any better in this one?
Zilvia video #2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJZ9wWf6Hr4)

[cotbu]

The clicking sound, is completely separate from the valve train noise. Kinda like someone in back of the camera man is squeezing the trigger on a snub nose 38!

Put your hand on the valve cover to see if you can pinpoint the location.

[HipHopHippo]

I cant now because I stripped the screw and broke the oil pan, fml. I remember it coming from closer to the back. Any idea of what it is?

[cotbu]

If thats where the broken bolt is? then that would explain alot. If not I have no clue. Did you put the shim and guides back on the correct sides, idk

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

If thats where the broken bolt is? then that would explain alot. If not I have no clue. Did you put the shim and guides back on the correct sides, idk

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

No I stripped the bolt after I took this video. All the shims and guides are there. I'm just going to take it to a shop this weekend because I'm in over my head. I appreciate the help man

[cotbu]

Good luck, I still think its the tensioner though. It is installed correctly right? Its the only thing that should sound spring loaded. It shouldn't be coming from the back though, again good luck.

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

[HipHopHippo]

Good luck, I still think its the tensioner though. It is installed correctly right? Its the only thing that should sound spring loaded. It shouldn't be coming from the back though, again good luck.

Sent from my Overclocked Debloated SIII

I followed to fsm and everything seemed to work as it supposed to, but ill check again tomorrow, i really hope its something simple like that

[G-moore's s13]

did you do a compression check? If you have a bent valve on the rocker you broke that would 1. explain why you broke your rocker. 2. explain the noise. Even if the valve is slightly bent it will still hang up randomly and in my opinon could be the noise. If you cant start the car, you can also do a leakdown test to confirm.

[HipHopHippo]

did you do a compression check? If you have a bent valve on the rocker you broke that would 1. explain why you broke your rocker. 2. explain the noise. Even if the valve is slightly bent it will still hang up randomly and in my opinon could be the noise. If you cant start the car, you can also do a leakdown test to confirm.

No I stripped a screw since I took the video and it took me a week to get a new screw but I finally got one and im going to try to torquing things down again tonight. Of its a bent valve it would fail a compression test right? And will I hurt my car by running it? I don't mean like driving it but letting it idle

[G-moore's s13]

Yes a bent valve will lower the compression. You need to do a compression check on all four cylinders, usually around 150psi on a sr. If it is a bent valve that cylinder will have dramitically less compression than the other 3. You do not want to try and run your car to do a compression check... you want to only crank the motor over for about 4 revoultions(about 2-4 seconds of cranking the starter) to make sure the cylinder you are testing went through its complete combustion cycle. intake, compression, power, exhaust. I am sure there are some good youtube videos of people doing compression checks as well if your still confused.

[HipHopHippo]

Yes a bent valve will lower the compression. You need to do a compression check on all four cylinders, usually around 150psi on a sr. If it is a bent valve that cylinder will have dramitically less compression than the other 3. You do not want to try and run your car to do a compression check... you want to only crank the motor over for about 4 revoultions(about 2-4 seconds of cranking the starter) to make sure the cylinder you are testing went through its complete combustion cycle. intake, compression, power, exhaust. I am sure there are some good youtube videos of people doing compression checks as well if your still confused.

I was reading up on bent valves and I read that if a valve is bent the boost gauge will fluctuate and will not be able to hit boost, which happened to me when I first broke it. So now im thinking bent valves. Is replacing a bent valve a big job?

[cotbu]

I was reading up on bent valves and I read that if a valve is bent the boost gauge will fluctuate and will not be able to hit boost, which happened to me when I first broke it. So now im thinking bent valves. Is replacing a bent valve a big job?

A broken, or missing rocker will cause the same symptoms because the air is not leaving or entering the cylinder correctly. The sound in the video is timed and rhythmic and does not sound like a floating valve. If when you put the rocker arm on, you didn't notice anything strange, I would say the valve is ok, but do a power balance an compression test to be sure, the valves are not the only place compression can be lost.

The job reqire head removal, valve spring compressor. Scale of 1-10 its a 2

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[HipHopHippo]

Should I have the cas disconnected to do the compression test

[G-moore's s13]

No that's not needed.

[G-moore's s13]

And obviously compression can be lost by other means than just the valves. But the noise is definitely in the top end and its too coinincedental that he broke a rocker and is now having a clear top end noise. Compression check is definitely the place to start though.

[HipHopHippo]

182 172 155 160

It remains a mystery

[cotbu]

Disconnect the the cas and remove the fuel pump fuse.

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[HipHopHippo]

Disconnect the the cas and remove the fuel pump fuse.

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I just did it with the cas in and the fuel pump fuse out, does this mean the numbers are faulty?

[cotbu]

No, was the throttle wide open?

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[HipHopHippo]

No, was the throttle wide open?

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yessir it was

[HipHopHippo]

I followed this guide step by step
How to: Perform a Compression Test on your Engine (http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-do-a-compression-test-on-your-engine.html)

[cotbu]

K, Removing the fp fuse ensure no pressure in the rail, no cas ensures no spark or injectors firing

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[cotbu]

That shit is frigging high
How many times did you crank, 7 or 8 ir did you just record the high reading?


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[HipHopHippo]

My sr is really nice when it isnt making mysterious noises

[HipHopHippo]

Im going to take it to my local shop tomorrow and see what they have to say about it