Need opinions on a car for sale!

[xcharlesy]

The car is very clean to say the least. Apparently the previous owner (a 40 year old adult) built the car, and sold it to his (40 year old) friend. The guy weekend drives it, and has done 1 track day in it. It has 120,000 on the body, and around 5k on the swap.

I know very little about 240's, but really would like to get into the scene.

I need to know if this looks like a good car to take while up for grabs, I've missed on quite a few cars lately, and this one seems like one of the best I've had the opportunity of seeing.

He is asking $7,000

The exterior is very clean, and the car looks very nice.

I'd be daily-ing this, and racking quite a bit of miles on it. Sometimes I drive a couple hundred miles once or twice a month to another state. So what worries me is that this is a pretty aggressive build.

I also will have to get over a big learning curve to understand the issues (if it has issues, and I know time brings them) and how to diagnose things.. It has a port to read codes but he said its japanese so you can't really do that? I'm not sure if hes just wrong? or what?

This is the build.

resleeves and bored 20 over Nismo racing pistons, total/seal rings,Nismo valve guides, retainers and stops, "H" rods, ACL bearings w/ ARP wavelock headstudsand maincap bolts. Motor was built by (a reputable shop). All this machine work is being pushed through a Garrett GT2871RS Turbo w/.86 compressor trim. 70 lbs injectors by MSD, a z32 MAF, SARD fuel pessure regulator, Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, Greedy Type R FMIC, KOYO radiator. Greddy 3" down pipe& circuit D3 catback stainless exhaust. Tied into a Fidenza lightened flywheel. competition 6 puck clutch, a B&M short shifter and viscious Limited Slip Diff.Cooling this monster is 2 twin-rad fans. Motor is set and mapped @ rev limit 8,000 rpm redline and running on 8lbs & 18lbs lo/hi boost. The engine was built for 20 to 25 lbs of boost so we have it running conservatively now. Currently @ 18lbs of hi boost the car is pushing 390 Horsepower. Synchronic Synapse Blow off valve recirculated

Outside: Sportmax 513 wheels, 17X7 up front and 17X9 in the rears. The tires are brand new! It has cross-drilled rotors and competition brake pads. Its handling on Tokiko shocks and Tein S tech springs. Tein front pillow balls & Enjuku racing rear camber arms for proper alignment.

[Kevin920415]

if you are driving couple hundred of miles once or twice to another state.. I highly suggest.. don't get a 240...

I do not think its worth 5k-5500?

[xcharlesy]

if you are driving couple hundred of miles once or twice to another state.. I highly suggest.. don't get a 240...

I do not think its worth 5k-5500?

for the rest of this month I'll be making 2 trips, and of course to the occasional track days, but I don't see an issue with investing some faith into these cars

[Tedskiii]

I personally wouldn't. You said you know very little about the car, I'd look for something close to stock if anything. I traded my stock Fasty for an Sr'd coupe, with barley any knowlege about Sr's, and little did I know how much of a headache that thing would be. DD'd it for about a year, not too many serious problems, but then again my Sr is completely stock. It's your money, and you got my opinion.

[ultimateirving]

That motor has a good amount of work done to it which is nice, But it is missing coilovers. 7k seems high for just a 240 with sr and some rims.

[Croustibat]

for the rest of this month I'll be making 2 trips, and of course to the occasional track days, but I don't see an issue with investing some faith into these cars

It is not a matter of faith, these engines are pretty reliable as long as you service them. It is a matter of cost. Maintenance is high on these. If you are going to drive a lot, get a car that is meant for this. You could even get both ... i promise the cost of buying a second car used to put miles on it and S13/S14 tuned car will be covered very fast. And also allows you to work on the S chassis with peace of mind as you wont have a deadline. TBH i tried running my S13 only for a year, and it had a lighter build than this one. I quickly bought another car for daily driving.

As far as 240 go, i highly suggest you dont put 7k in your first one. You always get screwed up on the first, unless you really know the seller (and i mean it, like he has been a friend for years). So better be screwed for 2K than 7K. You WILL be throwing money at it anyway.

I really have trouble with that build TBH. Maybe i am paranoid, or have too high standards, but if you wrote exactly what you got from the seller, then by all mean i would STAY AWAY from it.
GT2871RS ? That is a chinese ebay turbo.
Resleeved ? Why ? Yes you can put darton sleeve in it, but no one in their right mind would do that on a sub 400hp engine. Heck even 500+ HP SRs i know dont do that either, and they get drifted all day long. Sleeving is an expensive operation that really is not needed unless you are aiming for 600-700HP figures.
Nismo pistons: why ? A lot of manufacturers make better and cheaper pistons than these. They are quite obsolete now, yet their price has not gone down. No one would rebuild an engine today with these.
70lbs MSD injectors are delphi based, these are quite old tech. I'd really not use that, they are a pain to map with.
Short shifters tend to wear down the gearbox synchros quicker;
finally revving to 8000 without a lot of headwork (like high lift cams, oversized valves) is an absolute nonsense, as it does not make any power there.

I would not spend more than 3000$ on it. It SCREAMS trouble. I have a hard time believing someone would resleeve an SR20 to run it with a crappy ebay turbo (or even a real garrett gt2871r ... there is no point ). Somewhere i dont believe the engine has been rebuilt with all that. Or it was sold at some point to someone who went cheap on it, and thats no good either.