EGR Removed car idles like **** now

[gian52]

I removed my egr yesterday because I got some free headers for my ka24de, I used the isis block off plate and i followed a diy online. Everything was done right no leaks form the egr 1 little pipe in the back i capped and the other two already had a tube circulating. I got a brand new o2 sensor and i ran my codes and i get nothing wrong just an old auto tranny code now im 5 speed. What is can be going wrong?!?!!? sometimes it works fine other times it bogs at 3k rpm and dies at a light if i dont press on the gas. Im starting to think maybe a faulty o2 sensor harness looks real old but the car ran perfect before i took this pos egr off. Im super frustrated can someone please point me in the right direction.

[ShadowMan]

Just double check everything you did, especially the O2 wiring. If it looks old a shit and corroded, you jostling it around might have just been the twinkie that broke the fat chicks back. Make sure the wires are still solid and not breaking loose.

[gian52]

I fixed the harness, it wasn't the problem. Now it was running super rich bogged even in open throttle and car won't turn on now. Car has been parked for two weeks guys please help a brother out. I don't have the $$ to take to a shop.

[Croustibat]

1/Check ECU code to have some clue about what is happening. Read the FSM for that (no i dont have a link, but google must have one). Fix whatever sensor is said to be faulty.

2/No code ? MAF based EMS are very prone to vacuum/boost leak, so find it/them.


Bottom line, if it aint broke dont fix/upgrade it, esp. when you have no money. Headers ? congrats, you made maybe a couple more HPs. Downside is, now its broken down.

It may also be because you removed the EGR.

[milto0n]

You must have missed something removing the egr... Are you absolutely sure the egr plate is not leaking vacuum? Did you cap the charcoal canister purge line? How about the vacuum source directly under the throttle body? Last, did you hook up vacuum to the fpr?

If your car ran well before removing the egr, then that is your problem. Retrace your steps.

[gian52]

You must have missed something removing the egr... Are you absolutely sure the egr plate is not leaking vacuum? Did you cap the charcoal canister purge line? How about the vacuum source directly under the throttle body? Last, did you hook up vacuum to the fpr?

If your car ran well before removing the egr, then that is your problem. Retrace your steps.

http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae317/doogie891/402e0e21-5a1b-4b8f-8f34-89b4f4f3a5a5.jpg (http://s983.photobucket.com/user/doogie891/media/402e0e21-5a1b-4b8f-8f34-89b4f4f3a5a5.jpg.html)

i only capped the part in the picture with the red arrow everything else i left alone. now the car barely cranks. the egr plate was leaking a little bit and i put some rtv on it and its good now. but all those things you mentioned i didnt not do.... im not sure where to start there isnt any loose lines.

[gian52]

I've retraced all my steps guys, anyone got more feedback?

[milto0n]

Ok I see what you did. What year is your 240? I'm sure removing egr entails the same thing for all years 91-98 but my experience is only with 91-95 OBD1 motors. I sincerely believe your problem to be a vacuum leak so the focus of my response will be on potential air leaks.

First and foremost, where is the FPR getting its vacuum? It should be getting its source directly from the nipple coming off of the intake manifold, next to where the brake booster receives its vacuum.

You mentioned that you reapplied rtv on the block off plate which is good. I had a vacuum leak from there once, albeit a small one, and it caused rough idle and stalling. Just make sure it's 100% sealed is all.

I feel like your problem is somewhere here: Look under the throttle body. There are several small vacuum nipples coming out (number will depend on your year). The thickest one (this one runs from the purge canister) should be capped as it will be an open leak. The one that comes DIRECTLY from the throttle body should be capped as well. The rest, if you did everything correctly, won't need to be capped since they are no longer exposed to vacuum. Simply remove the lines (one will lead to the AIV, another to the PAIR, another to the charcoal canister, and the think one I mentioned earlier to the charcoal canister). On the back of the block, those relays and the bracket can be removed (3 12mm bolts holding it up). The vacuum lines can all be pulled as they now no longer go anywhere....This is very difficult to explain without diagrams so I hope this is not too confusing.

An easy way to test if you have any vacuum leaks (free and easy) is to put your mouth on the hose that runs to the IACV and blow, creating pressure... kind of like a little boost leak test. This will help show where air is escaping. Try all this and report back. Everyone else let me know if I missed anything or if I said something incorrectly. Best.

[milto0n]

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