timing chain problem on my KA

[driftcrazy]

aite there is a klinking noise comming from my valve cover and found out that it is my uper timing chain hitting the upper guide. I know some of yall have had the same problem and was wonder ing if there is a tensioner u can adjust to tighten the chain or how do u fix it. anyone with any idead plz hit me back, asap its getting ennoying and noisy. thanks.

[twitchy]

all of us have this problem

deal with the extra sound effects or get it fixed ($$$) up to you

[Ka Drifter]

there are two guides that are no longer needed and should be taken out per nissan the upper and lower ones(2 total) you can't even buy these any more and there is a tsb on they just ask about it at any dealer

[orion::S14]

Remove the upper guide...if the noise is really bad, it could already be in 2 pieces, which is bad.

Pull the valve cover, remove the upper guide, see if the noise goes away. 30 minute job...

- Brian

[twitchy]

hey wait...you can just...take it out? thats it? thats all you have to do, you dont need it?

[orion::S14]

Yep...there are instructions and FAQs on the web about it. Nissan issued a TSB that sys to remove the upper and lower guides if the valve cover is pulled for any reason - The lower guide is harder to do, and the upper is usually the culprit - I'd start with it and see if it fixes the problem.

Google-ize it, you'll find info and how-to's...

- Brian

[driftcrazy]

yea i took the upper guide off but it is still doing it, where is the lower guide located?

[andrave]

beware, guides broke on my E and they timing chain slapped the water jacket enough to wear through it, now mine has the infamous coolant/oil infiltration problems.

[nightwalker]

actually Nissan says to properly do it is to buy the shorter new timing chain kit that eliminates also the right side (looking at the engine from the front) tensioner. (Fixed on S14 KAs). That's if you want to do it right. Or just get rid of the guides like everyone else said.

[aznpoopy]

#1 what kind of engine. is it the old ka24E or the ka24DE? big difference when it comes to timing chain rattle.

#2 if it is a ka24E refer to the 240sx.org FAQ. rattle on a sohc is serious. if it is a ka24DE refer to the zilvia.net FAQ by misnomer on chain guide removal (both of them). rattle on a dohc is not so serious. very quick, easy fix. get some tools and take a day out to fix it.

[jetbill]

$5 solution to the DOHC chain rattle problem

I found a $5 solution to the chain rattle problem!!!! Well, at least *our* chain rattle problem.

Background: We got a DOHC engine with 53k miles on it from a junkyard, where it had been sitting on the rack for about 1 year or so. It had the nasty chain rattle problem that was always present not matter if the engine was hot or cold.

The problem that I found was the tensioner was *frozen* and was not fully extending and keeping tension on the chain. The burnt on oil/sludge gunk was keeping the tensioner from moving freely in the bore. Here's a quick rundown on how to fix this problem. Of course, if your chain is stretched and the guides are worn, this won't help you.

Tools needed: 10 and 12 mm wrenches, long screwdriver, timing light (very helpfull, but not totally necessary), tube of RTV, WD-40. A big socket to fit the front crank bolt is also helpfull but not required.
1. Put the engine at TDC (with #1 cylinder firing) because you'll be pulling the distributor out and you don't want to play guessing games on how to put it back in. Pull the cap from the distributor and make a note of where the rotor is pointing. Also make a scribe mark on where the distributor is adjusted so you can get the timing real close when you restart the car. If you don't have a socket to fit the front crank bolt to turn the engine, put the car in 4th gear (sorry slushers), and roll it back and forth until the engine is at TDC.

2. Remove the valve cover. You may need to remove the fan, depending on the amount of room you need. Remove the 3 small bolts (10mm head) holding the upper timing cover the lower cover. Remove the other 5 or 6 bolts (12mm). Carefully remove the top cover. If it doesn't just pop off, make sure all of the bolts are removed, otherwise you'll crack something!!!!
3. With the top timing cover removed, you can now access the top tensioner and the bottom tensioner. If found that both were a bit sticky, with the bottom one being the worst. It was jammed inside the bore and wasn't moving at all. As a result, the chain was just flapping in the wind.

4. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or other instrument of choice, to pop the tensioner out against the chain. Then, push it back into the tensioner housing until it bottoms. When you let go of the tensioner, it should pop back out and put full tension on the chain. If it doesn't pop it back out. Push in, pop out, push in, pop out, etc.... Do this until the tensioner is moving freely. I used a bit of penetrating oil (rusted bolt remover), to help disolve the gunk and get things moving freely. Check both tensioners.

5. Clean the cover, removing all of the RTV sealant. Clean the other mating surface and put the cover back on with new RTV. Replace the valve cover. Put the distributor back in, making sure it lined up as before. Fire it up,check the distributor timing, and enjoy the silence.