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View Full Version : bleeding coolant question (and Turn signals acting funny)


kazuo
03-22-2004, 09:57 PM
Ok so I'm too lazy to pull out my thermostat even though its probably the culprit, so I'm gonna ask anyway...

Filled cooling system w/ coolant until the bleeder started spewing fluid per FSM. Turned core up to full hot per FSM. Closed radiator cap and started motor. Let motor warm up. Revved to 2500rpm for 10 secs and stopped motor. Temp gauge was in the middle. Lower radiator hose was cold.

Let it cool off and started it again. Drove it around the block. Twice. Let it idle for 10 mins. Temp gauge stayed in the middle. Lower radiator hose was cold.

Then I realized I didn't clamp the lower hose (stupid!) and it was leaking a little coolant. Not a lot, just a little. I clamped it and tried again. Lower hose was still cold.

I was not able to fully bleed the system cus I was running w.o exhaust and it was late (did not want to piss neighbors off). Is it possible that an air pocket is causing the thermo to stay closed, or is the thermo just not opening?

Also, when I would hit my turn signals and make a turn, a right turn for example, the signal would stay on even after I had completed the turn. I did not try making a left turn.

Has anyone had a similar problem/know how to fix?

TIA

thx247
03-23-2004, 02:33 PM
You probably could get more coolant in the system if you open the radiator and the air bleeder again. It seems like you can always fill it up more.

There should not be an air bubble in the lower radiator hose since there is a escape hole built into the thermostat.

Thermo is easy to replace and is a 9 dollar part too, so might be worth taking out and testing if other things dont work out.

mrmephistopheles
03-23-2004, 11:51 PM
yeah, but he's a lazy bish.

PSI240SX
03-24-2004, 08:33 AM
also, another helpful thing is jacking up the front of the car while bleeding/filling. Also turn the heater on as well. This will help push all air pockets out.

PSI240SX
03-24-2004, 08:34 AM
oh and as for the turn signal, you prolly need a new switch.

kazuo
03-25-2004, 10:16 PM
Okay well, I went ahead and put in a new thermostat.

Lower radiator hose is still cold after 5 mins. of idling and driving it around the block twice.

At one point it got kind of not-cold (it wasnt hot like the upper hose, but it wasnt cold).

Temp. gauge stayed in the middle. Never went above.

This is starting to piss me off...

Heres the method I've been using for bleeding. Let me know what you think.

How to:



Bleed Coolant System

1. Switch on your Heater at full hot.

2. Locate 10mm bolt on water neck attached to the front of exhaust manifold and loosen it.

3. Slowly fill radiator with coolant (30% concentrate)

4. When coolant pours out of the bleeder hole, tighten the bolt to 0.7~0.8kg/cm2.

FSM claims the copper washer under the bleeder bolt should be replaced.

Ghetto fabulous procedure is to remove the existing washer, loop a stretched paper clip to hold the washer with, hold the clip with a vice grip or pliers while you torch the washer until it glows pink.

Let the washer cool down and place it on the bolt.

Ghetto procedure is to use the washer as-is.

5. Close the radiator cap and start your engine.

6. When the thermostat opens, lower radiator will become hot to touch. Rev the motor several times past 2500rpm for 10 seconds.

Pay attention to your coolant temperature gauge.

7. Stop the engine.

8. After the ECT cools down, open the radiator cap and inspect the coolant level.

If the level had dropped, repeat from step 5.

9. When the coolant level no longer drops in the radiator, fill the reserve tank / overflow tank to MAX line.

10. Restart the engine, raise the speed to 3000rpm, check that heater core is not making gurgle sound. If trickling sound or gurgle sound is heard, repeat from step 5 to 9.

PSI240SX
03-26-2004, 05:14 AM
I ran without a washer at all for about 2 years with no leaks on my S14, and on my latest car I have re-used the same washer every time.

Var
03-26-2004, 09:42 AM
when i changed the head gasket on my corolla, i added water to my empty radiator and drove it away. i dont get what the bleeding is for. does this mean i should go check my coolant level?

kazuo
03-27-2004, 01:26 AM
oh and as for the turn signal, you prolly need a new switch.

More info.

Where is this switch and how do I replace it?

Thanks :D

ryan hagen
03-27-2004, 08:32 AM
sounds like your blinker fluid mixxed with your coolant?

lol, you might need to run it longer to get the thermo open, what are the stock 170 or 180? i put on tomei wheel with a momo adapter and now my blinkers dont turn off till i turn them off. could be you switch, but if ur blinkers stay on either the wheel didnt go far enough to turn them off or the switch is bad.

thx247
03-27-2004, 09:22 AM
the switch is literally the switch you use for your turn signal.

Take off the black plastic on the top and bottom of your steering column and you will see two copper colored screws, they hold that switch in place. Basically the whole box needs to be replaced IF that is the problem.