aRRRGggHHHH!!!!

[gsracer]

whats up guys, i m still having this friggin problem on my s13 sr.

when it gets hot, not all the time sometimes it will hesitate really bad when accelerating from a standstill. when it gets to boost or around 4000 rpms it will accelerate faster but not normal it will feel definitly down on power. Funny thing is if you shut off the car for a few minutes, it will go away and not come back for maybe an hour or a day or two. completly intermitent problem , but its been happening more lately. what yall think???

please i will paypal 20.00 to the person who can help me fix this, no BS!!!!

[gsracer]

oh yeah it will do it at anyspeed once it starts doing it. sort of like it will bog out off boost, and if you floor it, it wont accelerate until like 4k then it will feel like somebody let it go.

[Vatche]

if u dont have an exhaust, i had that problem and it went away after i got an exhaust because the turbo didnt heat up as much not under as much pressure

[Muzzy]

hey??? do u have a boost gauge??? if so...when do u hit full boost??

i have a prob similar to this...but doesnt matter wut temp. i have boost creep because i have a GTR exhaust extension..i think...and its too small for my turbo(t28 came with it when i bought the motor..even thought its an S13 balcktop). i boost all the way to .8 bar..so far...its only suppose to go to .5 bar. so lemme know

[gsracer]

i have a boost gauage and a greddy profecb spec 2 and 14lbs, i have a 3 inch downpipe no cat, and 3 inch apex exhaust, i have a walboro 255 lph, nismo regulator, stainless fuel filter , spearco fmic, and hks type r blow off that does nto open at idle >>>>

[AadosX]

MAF is my guess. Also, are you getting any fault codes or whatever from the ECU?

[Muzzy]

damn it!!!
that dont help me!!!
answer my question!!

[gsracer]

sorry muzzy, i read too fast, i hist full boost around 3500 rpm -3700 rpm, my ecu throwa only code 55 meaning its ok.

[FastBack 240]

sounds like a computer problem to me.

[Muzzy]

well does your boost exceed .5bar or 7psi??

mine does..i was told i have boost creep. and i was also told i should hit full boost around..2.5k to 3k..so...idk...i know i gotta change my extension to sure my prob cuz its too small

[gsracer]

im boosting .9 bar i have a greddy profec b spec 2

[Yoshi]

im boosting .9 bar i have a greddy profec b spec 2

did it work fine before the boost controller or did you start off with it in there?
Since you're stumped, it seems like a good time to start removing non-essentials to try and eliminate variables.

[gsracer]

it did it when the car was stock, By stock i mean FMIC< blow off valve(hks type R stays closed at idle), 3 inch dp no cat 3 inch exhaust. So at that time i figured stock fuel pump going bad, so then i changed the pump walboro 255 lph nismo regulator new fuel lines, stainless element filter. still did it then then it stopped doing it for like a week , and i said great fixed bought the boost controller, and a bout a week after that started doing it again, lately its everyday at least once, then when it does it shut off the car for like 5 minutes and it will go away and wont do it again for a while, sooo friday changed the stock plugs and put ngk iridium plugs and changed the mass air flow sensor and it did not do it the whole weeked until yesterday night and i was like damn almost.

[gsracer]

its just that the car runs so damn good and smooth 90 percent of the time , i mean she frigging flys ive beat mustangs sat night i beat a 2002 camaro ss auto 3 times , from a standstill, 30 mph roll , and finally the reatard is like lets roll from 50 mph , and i spanked him each time, he had headers intake and exhaust and the last time when we got back i was like do you want to go from a roll of 100mph ,(just joking of course) and he was pissed, thats why its so frustrating since it only does it some times

[Yoshi]

shot in the dark, but maybe you have a malfunctioning coilpack?
I dunno why I wanna say that it's a spark thing :/ Lots of evidence sez no, but you've tried a good number of things, sorry bro :(

[gsracer]

i got to agree with you there ,the only thing i got left is o2 sensor, coil pack, injector, tps , crank angle sensor. lots of exspensive parts just to try and see. what gets me is the computer doesnt even throw a code, 55 is all i get

[gsracer]

any otrther ideas or similar problems will greatly be apreciated at this point

[gsracer]

ok to all that are helping i changed the mafs reset the computer, no change, and i just checked and adjusted my tps, it was at .35 volts at idle and 3.85 at wot, i put it at .48 volts and idle and 4.06 at wot per service manual. but it has no more adjustment after that, its adjusted all the way. well see what happens

[gsracer]

ok still does it jsut not as bad, any body else???

[Muzzy]

well when it runs like crap..does the exhaust get louder?

[gsracer]

a little bit louder , what it sounds like the most is when you rev the engine with out the mafs connected, but it keeps going instead of bogging out at 2500 rpm

[tchenku]

check your fuel pressure regulator vacuum hoses?

[Muzzy]

yea sounds like a bad coil pack
i had that prob but mine was worse

[gsracer]

MUZZY, did it always do it or just when you ve been driving around for a while?? do any us coil packs interchange, considering i ahve a whole junk yard at my disposal.

my nismo regulator has a brand new silicone hose, done when i checked all of the vacuum lines. it works ok.

[Muzzy]

always did it..but u couldnt tell it was bad at idle..it sounded perfect. but when u drove it then u could tell. no u can the coil oack of any us car...jus order from srswap.com and have them 3 day it for you..thas wut i did.

and so i dont make a false diagnosis...follow the S14 FSM diagram on here to test your coil packs to make sure...i hope u have a ohm meter so u can do it..and read how to test your ignotor chip to make sure thas not it either

[gsracer]

ill check those to but ii doubt it since it only does it part of the time,

i think i may have stumbled on to something though, since i put the sr in i omitted the charcoal canister in the bank and my gas tank has no vent, i would imagine after driving it for a while it develops a pretty good vacum, i verifed this by driving the car for like 10 minutes and opening the gas cap,it went psh and sucked in a bunch of air. so im thinking that maybe after driving it for a while it starts to run the fuel rail or pump backwards leaning it out.

next time it has a hesitation fit im gonna jump out pop open the gas tank let some air in and see if the fixs it... what yall think......

[Muzzy]

cansister has nothin to do with it...um..but where did u put the breather tube now??

[nismo2491]

check turbo freeplay
KEvin

[gsracer]

check turbo freeplay
KEvin


what do you mean check turbo freeplay, i know it is leaking oil into the i/c piping but not alot.

[gsracer]

its boosting fin and not making any noise

[Muzzy]

well..like shaft play..can u move the shaft??
and..um...oil goin into your IC is far from good

[gsracer]

its not a lot just gets the dicharge pipe a little oily and throws some out the blow off valve not like its consuming oil or anything.

[Muzzy]

ew...u sure its not commin from the valve cover and not the turbo?

[gsracer]

yea i disconected the valve cover, cleaned out the blow off valve and discharge pipe and drove it for a few days and sure enough a little oily again so its nto the valve cover for sure.

[Muzzy]

well perhaps u should run a catch tank...i do.. it helps..especially 4 u

[gsracer]

i am a greddy one .....

[Muzzy]

get the PDM one..its cheaper

[nismo2491]

the shaft play if its excessive can cause the boost pressure to drop immensely. you'll want to wiggle it around to see if it moves.
KEvin

[rednerd]

You might want to check your base timing. If it is off you might be detonating and causing the ecu to retard timing a few degrees. It definately sound's to me like there is something funky going on with the electrical.

Things I'd do:
Clean your maf
Check timing
Check to make sure your radiator is full (CTS will also retard timing but I seriously doubt that is what is wrong).
Check your engine grounds, wiring, and make certain that the ecu connector is plugged in all the way.
When it is happening, try unplugging one coil pack at a time and see if one pack causes the car not to bog.

Worst case scenerio, find a shop with a Snap On scan tool and the foreign carts and connectors. (Use the KA VIN provided you have the Consult connector wired properly) and drive around with it while the problem is happening. You can take a 30second "movie" and review the sensor outputs.

[gsracer]

HEY REDNERD

Things I'd do:
Clean your maf
DONE, AND CHANGED IT TWICE ALREADY
Check timing
CHECKED IT ALREADY LIKE A MONTH BACK BUT ILL CHECK IT AGAIN
Check to make sure your radiator is full (CTS will also retard timing but I seriously doubt that is what is wrong).
RADIATOR IS FULL , DOES CTS = TEMEPRATURE SENSOR, I THINK IT MAY BE BAD IT ALWAYS READS FULL HOT ON MY S14 I KNOW ITS NOT SUPPOSED TO READ RIGHT BUT ALL THE WAY HOT ALL THE TIME I HAVE AND AUTOMETER AND IT DOESNT MOVE FROM 190
Check your engine grounds, wiring, and make certain that the ecu connector is plugged in all the way.
GROUNDS ARE OK, ECU IS PLUGGED IN ALL THE WAY, I WENT THRU THE HARNESS 4 TIMES WITH AN OHM METER AND ALL THE RESISTANCES WERE OK, UNLESS AS THE WIRE HEATS UP ITS CAUSING MORE RESISTANCE.
When it is happening, try unplugging one coil pack at a time and see if one pack causes the car not to bog.
HAVENT TRIED THIS YET
Worst case scenerio, find a shop with a Snap On scan tool and the foreign carts and connectors. (Use the KA VIN provided you have the Consult connector wired properly) and drive around with it while the problem is happening. You can take a 30second "movie" and review the sensor outputs.
DAMN IT I NEW I SHOULD HAVE HOOKED THAT UP

[gsracer]

well i just went out to lunch and it didnt again this is like a once every day/ other day thing. teh car is drivabel just annoying feels like there is a complete utter loss of power, like i was driving the ka agian. so i pull over shut it off sit for three minutes start it up and its gone as always.

however one thing i did notice is that normally when it is not in its hesitation fit when i shift and the blow off blows off and the car comes back to idle it goes to like 700-800 rpms (its set at 950 rpm), however when its hesitating if i blow off and let it come back to idle it will go to around 4 -500 rpms and want to shut off on me.

however i do nto think this is blow off valve related. as my blow off valve stays close at idle

[gsracer]

Ok Desperate Times Call For Desperate Measures .....

I Will Paypal 50 Us Dollars To Whoever Can Diagnose The God Damn Problem, You Tell Me What To Fix, It Works 50 Dollars For You

No Bull Shit

[srpowered240sx]

its probably your coil pack/s. try cleaning the harnesses, pulling the spring in the end back down a little so you know the connection is good with the plug. also just try switching them up, maybe give you a little insight on which one is out. i had this problem and switching two of the bad coils fixed the problem. check your plugs while your in there to make sure they arent getting tons of carbon.
good luck and let me know!!!!

[Yoshi]

its probably your coil pack/s. try cleaning the harnesses, pulling the spring in the end back down a little so you know the connection is good with the plug. also just try switching them up, maybe give you a little insight on which one is out. i had this problem and switching two of the bad coils fixed the problem. check your plugs while your in there to make sure they arent getting tons of carbon.
good luck and let me know!!!!

I already suggested that.... a month ago :P