Need to hold accelerator to start KA24DE

[Frank_Jaeger]

Sometimes when I start my car, I have to push the accelerator down a little or else it'll just keep cranking. I also have to keep my foot on the accelerator for a few seconds or it'll die after starting. After that it idles perfectly at 700rpm in gear (automatic) with no other issues.

I recently replaced my intake manifold. In the process I removed all emissions-related equipment (EGR, PAIR, SCV, charcoal canister, etc). The only vacuum line left on the car goes to FPR off the lower manifold. I checked with starter fluid and I have no vacuum leaks.

Is my IACV sticking, do you think? I have like 3 of them lying around, so it wouldn't be a problem to replace it. Or is this related to having removed emissions? I haven't adjusted my TPS or anything, or the throttle cables that I put back on. My throttle plate is completely closed at idle. Is that right?

[Frank_Jaeger]

Would a leaky injector cause this problem? I.e it starts too rich and needs more air to balance out?

I'm at work right now and my car won't start. Turns over fine, just won't fire up. I smell fuel by the rail too.

[cotbu]

To start the car with throttle open means the lack of air or too much fuel.
common causes: leaking injector and dirty IACV.
When you rule out both of those, then the problem is something else. GL

[nismolvr]

TPS , check voltage ig on engine off @ idle think its suposed to be .45V . and clean throtle valve .

[Frank_Jaeger]

Thanks guys. Yesterday I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it a few times. It started, then died. Then I put the fuse back in and it started right up, had to hold the throttle though. It almost died on me at a stoplight too.

I'll clean the IACV (or swap it), check the TPS voltage, and check the rail + injectors. My throttle valve is already way clean.

It might be worth noting I haven't put in a resistor yet for the EGR.